DEATH OF DRESS REFORMER

Timaru Herald, Volume CXXXIX, Issue 20090, 23 April 1935, Page 7

DEATH OF DRESS REFORMER

ECHO OF TITANIC DISASTER PASSING OF LADY DUFF GORDON United Press Association—By Electric Telegraph—Copyright LONDON, April 21. The death is announced of Lucy, Lady Duff-Gordon. Like her husband, who succumbed in 1931, Lady Duff-Gordon died in April on the anniversary of the Titanic disaster, from which both were rescued in the captain’s boat. An inquiry vindicated her husband of charges of cowardice in connection with the wreck, but the indignity thus placed upon him preyed upon his mind. Lady (Lucy) Duff-Gordon, pioneer in the reform of women’s dress, was a daughter of Douglas Sutherland, of Toronto, and a sister of Elinor Glyn, the novelist. Her first husband was James S. Wallace, but he died soon after their marriage, and in 1900 she married Sir Cosmo Duff-Gordon. They separated, however, and, looking round for a means of being independent, she undertook to make dresses for her friends. Her designs were much appreciated, and, receiving every encouragement, she launched out boldly and, as she put it, became the “first dressmaker to bring joy and romance into clothes.” She “loosed upon a startled London, a London of flannel underclothes, woollen stockings and voluminous petticoats, a cascade of chiffons and of draperies as lovely as those of Ancient Greece.” Founding the Maison Lucile with branches in Paris and New York, she invented the mannequin parade. Society flocked to her showrooms, and she was soon making £40,000 a year.

Once Princess Mary, when a girl, was taken by Princess Patricia to see the display. Almost lost in wonder at the magnificent costumes, the young princess exclaimed: “Oh, they are lovelier than anything I have ever seen. But I cannot afford them. You see, my dress allowance is only £SO a year.” King George wanted his daughter to dress as simply as if she were a member of a country squire’s family. When Queen Ena of Spain visited the establishment, as she often did when in England, she was charmed on one occasion by a slit skirt which gave just a fleeting glimpse of the legs. “I am sorry, my dear,” interposed King Alfonso, “but you cannot possibly wear that in Spain.” The Queen was much disappointed, and after she had reasoned with him for some time a compromise was effected by employing lace behind the slit. Lady Duff-Gordon dressed many famous actresses, including Ellen Terry, Sarah Bernhardt, iVfrs Langtry, Gertie Millar and Gaby Deslys. In the “boom” days American couples would sometimes call on her and spend at one visit £3OO on shoes and ten times as much on dresses and hats. In June, 1932, she published . her reminiscences under the title “Discretions and Indiscreditions.”