A TRIP TO THE" MACKENZIE COUNTRY.

Timaru Herald, Volume XLIII, Issue 3519, 8 January 1886, Page 3

A TRIP TO THE" MACKENZIE COUNTRY.

(CONTBIBBTED.) On the 26th of December last myself and a companion found ourselves on the undulating ground and slopes of the Tasman downs, on the eastern side of the Tasman river, near the head of Lake Pukaki. From this point, and within a distance north and south of about ten milea, perhaps tho best views of Mount Cook can be obtained. The Tasman river valloy extends about twenty-five miles from tho base of the mountain to tho lake, is abo3t four miles wide, and appears to the eye perfectly level and straight all the way. It is, however, shoaled and curved and isled by the ever shifting rapid streams of the Tasman. A bold and lofty range of mountains abruptly rises on the western side of the valley, and its peaks regularly increase in height and in extent of snowy ma'itle, from the lake side below tho delta of the river up to Mount Cook. This range beinij parallel with the wide level river flat, and tho gently sloping rising ground on the eastern side, forms a grand vista, at the extrotnity of which etanda Mount Cook, high uplifted above tho hiuh mountains, which circle likepcers around their king. Though grand the scene, our thoughts were for a while turned to where the Tasman rirer projects its dangerous quicksands into the lako ; quicksands long to be remembered in sadnoss by the bereaved friends of the late Mr Morrison, of Glen I anner. Only a fow weeks previous to our visit ho launched his boat to cross the lake for hia home on tho other aide. Tho boat was found a fow days I after stranded on the Glen Tanner side, but no clue could be found as to the fate of its oci upant ; no earthly eye but that of the waterfowl -which here abounds — even saw whether he was drowned in Pukuki's waters, or engulfed in the treacherous quicksands. At tho head of the lako he lies ; for a monument tho Tasman Island ; for a shroud the cloud of glacial dust that ever with the wind comes down tho Tasman Valley. Looking northward up tlm valley Muunt Cook is clearly seen. 1 hrough mort part of the day no clouds obscured our view. Besides the range at the other side of tho river, other great, mountain ranges converge and culminate in height as they approach their great centre. A glorious robe of purest » lute hangs e>er around hi* form ; his ice-pinnacled crown boldly cleave* the blue sky. Around, hia peers in ever silent homaao stand, their coronets less high, yet scarcely lees gloriously clothed in their drapery of enow. Though often hidden by Oevcy masses of cloud, this day the king threw by hia vaporous robes and stood revealed in smiling, yet majestic, aspect, affording to us one of tho grandest scenes by which Nature teaches and reminds ihut she hai a great Creator of whose power this mountain lord and his attendants aro but the fi"ger work. Long would we fain havo gazed from thoso pleasant tussock-clad braes Thoughts of the past, realities of the present, ima.inings of the future crowd the brain and move the heart to various moods, a* fitfully blows »nd changes the pure nir from thy throne, Aorangi ! I cannot refrain from apostrophising. My natal plain, between the dark witters of tho Barrow and he clear streams of Slaney, recurs to memory, wh re the gently swelling heath-i-overed Wicklow Hills formed the east.rn boundary of vision, and on the west Slieve Bloom's verdant long-extended ridgo. In form, magnitude, coloring and surroundings bow different that sceno of my youth from that on which I was then gazing in rapture. 1 feel the difficulty experienced by a person long used to level or undulating scenery, to give anything like a description of this mountain picture — bright sun, clear sky, summer breeze, deliriously cooled by mountain snow, Mount Cook clear from base to summit. Two flanking gorges aro at either side of its base, with dark, trowning entrances, forbidding, yet Btrangely inviting the adventurous step of the hardy pedestrian. Now and again light clouds, like serial messengers, come quickly from all quarters, as if mcssa.e laden from distant mountain thrones, some far beyond tho sea. Some as quickly move away again, whilo others cluster for a fow moments around the crown, veiling, while ministering to the beauty of tho king. Other clouds gather around tho middle, height, showing the bright sun-lit peaks, as if severed from tho dark base. Around is the storehouse of tho winds ; bosido and beneath the mighty glacial and riparian forces over work their way, cleaving and grinding the mighty ribs, to form the corn-growing, flock-feeding soils of the plains, or strew with shingle the desolate beach between tho mouth of tho rapid Waitangi and Timaru. The mountains hngo away shall fieo, The hills and valloya cease to bo, And there shall be no more a soa. No more a sea ! Farewell! Though I may never again see thy form or tread those pleasant braes, thine imago on my memory is impressed, adding another to the many blessings bestowed by our common Creator. A few half-decayed moa bonea and roots of the indigenous Mount Cook lily we brought away aa mementos of our visit. A few remarks on the downs and sloping grounds where we spent that very pleas >nt day may not be unacceptable. After leaung Tckapo Lake, on tho road to Braemar about ten miles, the land steadily improves in quality to the Tasman river. By the eas ern sMo of this >iver, and past Pukaki Lake, from Burnett's station down a distance of over twenty milea, with an average breadth of about five miles, including the Hruemar Company's station and Mr George Newland's property on Ta»man downs, tho land is of go d quality, rich, of good depth and well watered, and the soil appears to bo of an alluvial imd glacial formation. The soil, though deep and fertile, is not of sufficient body or strength for wheat-growing. Tho extent of land mentioned is nearly alt pluughublo and eisily worked. In many places the water is found springing from the ground, and several ever running streams offer a considerable amount of available power tempting to the speculative machinist or wheelwright. The winters, at this altitude (nbuut 1800 feet above the sea love ) and the vicinity of the snow-covered mountains, are often severe, frosty weather often prevailing tor many weeks with occasional fall* of snow. The winds are very boisterous and frequent during summer, so much so that the oxposod soil, being of a highly pulverised character, is blown about like dust. EHome 1 trge paddocks on the Braemar station, lately brought under cultivation by the onterprising manager, Mr Stevenson, show with what small amount of labor and in what short apace of time thoso fertile downs may be clothed in nutritious grasses and clovers, or made to produce luxuriant crops of oats and succulent and fan 1 aceous roots. The chief obstacles to farmers are tho prevalence of dry winds in summer and autumn, and the often long continued frost in winter. These drawbacks render it difficult to grow forest or fruit trees. Tho want of wood for shelter, fuel, and farming and general purposes will be a drawback to settlers for some considerable time. Nearness to the markets by improvement of roads will come in timo, and the pioneers of settlement on the western shores of Pukaki Lake and the Taeman River will find that not only the grand mountain and lake scenery, but the rich soil, adapted to the growth of grasses, oats and roots, will attract settlers eager to found a home in this beautiful and interesting part of the island.