From South Africa to N.Z.

Southern Cross, Volume 12, Issue 44, 28 January 1905, Page 9

From South Africa to N.Z.

(By E. Gt. East.)

Our next turn in Capetown was to a place called the Old Slave Market, near the centre of the town. In this we were all much disappointed, as the only indication of its ever having been a slave market was a flight of steps leading up to a Dutch church door, and it appears many years ago the Africans were sold on these steps and confined under them until ready for shipment to America. The square is at present occupied by trollies plying for hire.

Our next move was to see how the fish were brought in and sold. It appears that the fishing 1 industry is run by Turks, Italians, etc., who bring 1 in their catch and tie them up in bunches and sell them for cash at a stated price. Thus a bundle of very large mackerel was valued at one penny each, while a fish of the groper stamp was valued at 4s. I saw no plaice, soles, or flounders, so we decided that fish were very cheap. The mackerel of three or four pounds at one penny each fairly astonished us after the wholesale price of 3d per pound at Durban. I saw no oysters, mussels, or cockles during my stay here. The hawking of fish is done by the half-breeds from paraffin cases mounted on perambulator wheels. Our next visit was to the parade, a block of land at the back of the Gr.P.O. five or six acres in extent, and used on Saturday and Wednesday as a sort of Paddy’s market. One of my chums was so much amused at the things exposed for sale that he decided to get his camera and thus assist his memory. For my pare I was anything but amused, and felt heartily disgusted. Not one thing of good quality did we find on the market, although the ground was blocked with the filth and rubbish of Capetown. I used to remark when in Durban—“ I cannot understand how the plague hangs on to the Cape so much,” but now my eyes were opened and I saw more than I care to say.

When we returned to lunch the host said—“ Have yon done the exhibition,” and when we bad finished and enjoyed our cigars, etc., we started off to see this much-talked-of show. We took the tram in the direction of Green Point, as told, and found a large enclosed space of ground but could see no buildings from the

outside, so we were doubtful whether we had struck the right place, until we were directed to a place like the entrance to a cattle yard, and on reaching this we enquired, and being assured we were right, we paid our shilling and went in, and I frankly admit I never got less for a bob in my life. We did not evbn get a ticket, and I may add we only saw two other visitors during our stay. The band was playing, but it was to empty benches. After our tour of inspection I congratulated my comprnions on the fact that neither Australia nor New Zealand was represented there. One of my friends was so vexed over his sell that he wanted to square accounts with the man who took his bob, but wa warned him, and I even offered to give him his money back, but this only male matters worse, so we decided to listen to the socalled band. But I learned in Durban that band music is a stranger in South Africa, so I was not disappointed on that score. When we thought our friend had cooled down we ran the gate gaunlet safely. The buildings consisted ot wood and iron shanties not over 10 feet from ground to roof, with no lining, and only eight of them at that, and the heat inside was very near at Hades point. No building there was 30 feet long or 16 feet wide, so that if they were all placed on end they would not exceed 240 feet by 15 feet wide. The green decorations consisted of young oak pines, beech, and a few small palms, all growing in half the usual kerosene tin, with a hole dug in the ground to let the tin half way into it. Some one said this was to keep people from placing them in the top hole of their coats. Such is the world’s show now being held at Capetown. Why the wax match at Cole’s Book Arcade, Melbourne, puts out the electric light of Capetown. You may hear from some other quarter that this thing is a failure, but that does not express it as I saw it, especially when I remember the Dunedin show of only some 14 or 16 years ago. Bah ! One was a glittering palace and the other is a neglected pig-stye. In riding home from this ‘ frost ’ one of my friends) asked his neighbour what it was an exhibition of, and he unthinkingly answered —‘ Oh, I give it up.’ ‘ Yes,’ said the first speaker, ‘ that is very evidently what the other donkeys have done too.’ But when one thinks of all the gas of great men and brains in the country, is this failure not giving the lie direct to their boasting P True, Rhodes has gone, but still Jameson is there, also Harry Solomon, and the great Albu Bros., etc., who all along have openly fooled the British Government. Why don’t they put their brains to work to assist this farce out of disgrace ?

When we reached home the boss was afc tea, and as we explained to him the sights, laying great stress on the glass show, and the grandeur of this or that department, he could maintain his gravity no longer, and the tears just rolled down his cheeks with laughter at how he had tricked us into visiting this show. Show be blowed ! There was no show there, no, not even one side show. However, as we had been ‘ had,’ we decided to let others be had also, so we sent six more shipmates out to see the sights, and one came back chockfull of beer he had got on the cheap. The next thing to be considered was how to get some silver leaves, as we were at the only spot on the globe where they are known to grow, and to go away without them would be folly. As two of the party wanted to write some letters, and the day being decidedly hot, the youngest member offered to go on a voyage of discovery alone, bat I remembered bow often people had come to a sad end on Table Mountain, and 1 decided to accompany him for safety. On leaving* the honsef we took a line up the hill at the back of the new prison and worked to the left towards the left end of Table Mountain, and as we got about half way my mate continually complained of the fearful stink coming from no great distance. As we got nearer we were glad to put

our handkerchiefs over our nasal organs to avoid being overcome by the foul odours. We had noticed some people moving long before we approached the spot, and had seen clothes out to dry all along the lower part of this place, but had no idea that all the washing of the town was being done in this small dribble of water. This was a fresh surprise for both of us, and we congratulated ourselves oq th§ fact.that we had no need of washing at Capetown. This little stream, or rather driblet, that rnns from the mountain to the sea in wet weather, at the time of our visit did not reach the building highest up towards it, bat died or dried out, so that with all the blacks washing their own and white people’s clothes year in and year out, every day of the year, Sundays included, the place beggars description. Mr Salmon, my companion on this occasion, was delighted when we got on the windward side of the foul spot, and be refused to believe that the people of the town knew of its existence. As we chatted aud walked up hill we came on the very things we were hunting for. At a little distance they looked nothing to be coveted, bat when we put our hands on them we fonnd that even this scarce aud lovely plant did not escape the African pest, for fully six out of every ten leaves were destroyed by some insect. But as we were on the spot we took what would do for the four of ns, and had a rest on the mountain side, and viewed the town at our feet. We regretted not taking oar glass, as the view was lovely. To us the streets were like bamboo canes laid along and among large stones, and the green trees in the park looked like little patches in a garden, while the ships in the harbor would have formed a fine model for an artist. Coming back, we avoided the washing place, although it added a few miles to our journey. Tea was over when we returned, and our mates were as glad to see us as we were to do justice to the repast. That evening we remained at home sorting and picking silver leaves and enjoying a rest. Our mates were delighted when they saw the leaves, as they had refused to give us credit for finding them. We had made special enquiries as to where they grew, but were always told to go to Rhodes, so that it was very evident that everybody in Capetown does not know where they grow. Even when we found them the quantity was very limited, as there were certainly not fifty bushes on the patch. One can scarcely call them trees, as they do not exceed fifteen or sixteen feet in height, and seven branches were the most I counted on those we saw. (To he continued.)