SHALLOW CROWNS

Poverty Bay Herald, Volume LV, Issue 17238, 19 April 1930, Page 12

SHALLOW CROWNS

BUT WIDER BRIMS WHEN CAPS ARE PREFERRED Dignity and Mae regard to the sculptor's art arc noticeable in the first millinery displays of the spring season in London. The importance of line is more emphasised than ever, for with the sun conies the brim, which, in these days, does not only throw a becoming shadow over the eyes, but must express "verve" and sensibility in each Cold, pleat, or tuck. Brims should follow lines to suit each head. Brims ami crowns must be subservient to the individual. If this new and excellent dictum of fashion be followed, we shall see less absurdities in the millinery world, as, for example, wide Dutch types adopting narrow shapes, or the already elongated faces and features choosing ultra-high hats to exaggorato Nature's failings!

Another fashion-point that will increase in prominence as the season advances is that the cape-vogue, or the flat, wider expression in the new scarf arrangements for the shoulders, naturally requires larger shapes to give; balance. Already we have seen large brim.s for some tennis hats abroad. Short jackets, basques, and beleros can all do better with fantastic brims. Tailor-mades, on the other hand, wi|l remain faithful to the smaller shapes in t W'eod-pu.tternod straws and jersey-opongo.

Dalian straws in lovely colors and of softest mesh are favored for the large simple shapes that look equally well for garden or utnart afternoon wear providing the decoration is suitably arranged for the occasion. Simplicity demands an easily swathed plain scarf, or wide satin ribbon, whereas the more elaborate mode shows highly decorative and often strange flowers of silk, leather, or a fantastic medley of ribbons.

One begins to think that the shallow aspects of the new crowns in general will, as time goes on, provide an_ entirely new trend in millinery which will greatly change the mode. We have seen so Tnuch. of the high and elongated crowns—in fact, the high hat and too narrow front has been monotonous alike in character and line.

There is more spirit expressed in a shallow, crown and a definite drooping brim—seldom the same all round. Hats undoubtedly have a curious influence on a woman's feelings and outlook on life. Defiance and spirit can lie expressed in a one-sided angle, a charming "lilt," such as suits ,a small turned-tip nose and piquant face. Sweeping brims recall the dignity of plumes; frills, and laces.

The cap made of plaited straws, tucked crepes, stitched tweeds and linens proves a perfect; style for a certain very modern attitude that *is influenced by the classic" vogue, following the sculptured curls and waves of the ieading coiffeurs.

. (.'rochet, chiffon, muslin, and shirred fabrics an. 1 good for such shapes, just as tweed-straw and felt are used for turbans.

Horse-hair and feathers are plaited together for some of these wonderful new caps, and the halo-hat, that follows the wedding trend, is made out of lace and straw. After the early mid-season "fabric" hats for sport, which at the moment means an alliance of tweeil and straw or straws that look like tweed, we shall again welcome the stitched crepe do chines, plain and patterned taffeta, and the useful straw with felt brim of contrasting color. The way of the soft fabric finish is generally becoming.

Pastel tones prevail, but the exceptions to this rule are also delightful. Every woman has (or should have) a special color to call her own, oven though fashion may exercise a due restraint. Greys arc delightful when in the warmer lints. Beige this spring quickly runs into a faint pinkey-tone. Blues fade from a Naples sea to the grey mists of a clouded sky, whilst mimosa-green challenges a bright emerald in a straw ami silken weave.

In the bright range red continues its triumphant march, but already there are signs of an.equally brilliant shade on its way, which is a "violet" of the doop blue tone. As warmer days approach coral-pinks, faded lavenders and'mauVe will be seen.