Practical Gardening.

Auckland Star, Volume XLIX, Issue 41, 16 February 1918, Page 16

Practical Gardening.

By DIANTHUS.

Correspondents trill greatly oblige by observing the folloicing rules in tending questions for publication in these columns: —

1. Letters should be addressed Garden Editor, "Star" Office, Auckland. 2- Write on one side of the paper, and make all Communications at concise as possible.

H. Flowers, etc., sent for naming must be. srnt separately, and, if possible, packed in a tin or wooden box — cardboard boxes are v«ry lixble to be broken m transit and the contents damaged.

■b. The full name and address of the sender must ahcays he sent, but a Horn de plumi or initial may be given for publication.

THE WEEK'S WORK. THE FLOWER GARDEN. Continue the work of disbudding and tying up Dahlias. A frequent use of the knifo is necessary. Caterpillars have appeared, and in some cases are doing a lot of damage. The bast method of control is to spray with one ounce of arsenate of lead to two gallons of wetor. Spray twlco or three times at intervals of a week or ten days. Liquid manure should be given to Chrysanthemums and Dahlias now. Both these plants will take a good supply. Bulb lifting should now be completed, and planting should be going on. Start with tho earliest flowering varieties. Layering of Carnations will be finished in some gardens, but where it Is not It should be pushed on with all speed. Asters are now in full bloom in some gardens. Where extra large blooms are required a certain amount of disbudding must be done. . Hoeing and weeding and trimming of Hedges will bo nececsary to keep the garden tidy and of good appearance. Remove all dead and spent blooms. THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. A liberal use of liquid manure will be of great value in this department Just now.

Scans, Leeks, Celery, Cabbages, are amongst tho crops that are benefited by an ample supply. Any empty spaces from which crops have been removed should be dug, to keep down weeds, or sow a soiling crop, such as mustard or oats, and dig it in when a foot or so high. This system is especially useful where stable manure Is scarce. Onions and Shallots should be lifted, dried and harvested. A good moans of storing is to tie In strings and hang up In a cool dry shed, as shown In Illustration published last week. The lifting of Potatoes will be necessary after tho moist weather; If left much longer the probability is that the tubers will sprout. When lifting Potatoes pick out the seed. If any is to be saved, at once, and Remove all yellow and decaying leaves from the Cabbage, Cauliflower, Brussels Sprouts, etc. This foliage is often diseased, and should be burnt, not left lying about. Make a sowing of Dwarf Beans, Carrots, Lettuces, Radishes, Onions for salad. Crops sown now will be benefited if it is possible to keep them watered. ♦

LOBELIA. If lobelia plant 3 have become worn out with (lowering, trim off the dead flower stalks, and work a good handful of sand into the centre of each plant. Mew shoots will soon appear, and may be used for supplying young plants for next season's edgings. GATHERING PEARS. No fruit requires more special attention in the matter of gathering than peare. Most of the best of them, ripen late, and should not be gathered co lon™ , as they will hang on the trees. This appliea more particularly to those which require to be stored for n month or two before they eaften and become lit for dessert. If tlieee late-ripening varieties aro gathered before their time, they may shrivel and decay. This ie disappointing, and a great loss of useful fruits. The best plan is to let them hnng till they begin falling naturally, or till the pips are quite brown, which can be ascertained by cutting one or two open. BLOOD FOR VINES. Those readers who are able to obtain •bullocks' blood from a slaughter-houee will find it a splendid stimulant for vines , and also pot plante. I find the beet way of using it is to obtain the blood, while etill warm, mix it with a heap of finelysifted 6oil, and apply it as a top-dreseing, well watered in. If used in ite raw state in the houses the emell is very offensive during the hot weather, and a good deal is -wasted, as it congeal»-e».qtrickTy.

SUCKERS ON FRUIT TREES. Pear, plum and cherry trees frequently throw up euckere from the roots, and these, if allowed to remain, rob and weaken the trees. To chop the shoots off at the eurface does but little good, they grow again immediately. The aoil round about the suckers should be opened a little with the fork, and the roots of the robber-shoots traced as well ac possible to their eource; then, with a keen knife, remove them. This work ia best done in rainy weather, when the soil is moist.

STRIKING ROSE CUTTINGS IN WATER. The number of subjects that can be rooted from cuttings in water is much larger than is generally supposed. Amongst them are Kosps. As a novelty the work has its interesting features. Striking cuttings in bottles of soft water is as simple as it is practical, and cuttings taken oiT at any time during the Bummer will root in this way in from five to six weeks, after which they should be potted carefully in light sandy soil and placed in a cool, protected, shady position for a week or so until established, when they are ready for planting where wanted. The cuttings should be cut clean below an eye or joint, and none of the bark bruised. The bottles may be of any convenient size, and may be placed in a room window, as the only attention they require is the filling up of the bottles with water as it evaporates. Bain water ehould be used.

CHRYSANTHEMUMS. From now -until the end of the month for Japanese, and the first two weeks of next month for incurved, the growers ot largo chrysanthemum blooms will be busy "taking the bud." This is, perhaps, the moat important point of all the details connected with chrysanthemum cultivation, ibeeause if the right bud is not taken it is impossible to obtain a perfect bloom. To the novice the phrase "taking the bud" is rery misleading, tiecause as a matter of fact' the bud is not taken but is lap't, and the side-ehoote taken away. After a bud lias formed on the point of a shoot numerous growths will appear on the same shoot, and, as a rule, the three top ones of tlinse shoots grow the fastest. To concentrate all the energy of the shoot into the Ibnd, the side shoots must be removed, but not all at once, or a blind bud may result. When the growths are from half an inch to nn inch in length they ehotild ibe removed about two at a timo every other day, so that in a'boufc a week or ten days' time all the growthe will be removed, and the peduncle or flower etctn -will be gradually lengthening. The above remarks apply to iirst and second crown buds. There is, liowevor, another formation of buds at the point of some shoots, and these are called "terminal buds." This ie the last formation of buds than can take placo at the point of a shoot. These buds are quite good enough to depend upon for producing flowers for a late display and for cutting purposes, and are also to 'be relied upon in the case of bush plants. To get k largo bloom, all the buds but the centre one must be pinched out, but in a simalar manner an advised above for shoots. Terminal buds do not, as a rule, give such large Mooms as crown buds, but the colour is sometiinee better.

TO GROW GOOD CELERY. When the celery is ready for earthing up, take off all eide-shoots and bad leaves, and wrap a sheet of brown paper round them, not too tight, tie -with a piece of raffia. A sprinkling of ealt between the plants will be helpful, as also will be a sprinkling of coot. When, putting the soil round the plants be careful not to let the soil get inside the paper collar. s LOGANBERRIES. Loganberries should have all the old exhausted wood that has fruited cut out. These can be cut 'back to the base, and the young growths of the x current seaeon tied in their place. As these shoots will continue to grow for a considerable time yet, copious eupplies of water can be given the roote, and where no mulch was given, liquid manure made from animal manures will be of great assistance. Although not so subject to the bud grub as its near relative, the raspberry, the loganberry, is, nevertheless, attacked occasionally, and the early removal of the old wood, if not a cure, is certainly a check for this pest.

HOME-MADE SWEET PEA POT. The following is a method by which little paper pots can be made for the purpose of sowing sweet peas in. Of course, they will not stand much handling, especially when moist, but if, when filled, they are stood together in a shallow -wooden box, the box can be about. With careful handling, however, they fulfil their purpose admirably by keeping the roots of each plant separate, so that when planting it can be done with the minimum of disturbance and breakage of roots. Strong paper or light cardboard should be need. Take a piece five and a-half inches square, Of course, a larger can be used if required, but the above is a good 6ize. Fold to triangular shape, fold right-hand corner over to the left, co that the point is just above the centre of the left side; fold the left-hand corner over to the right, to come level with the right hand corner; fold one of the tops down the outside, the other down the other eide, and the pot is complete, except to cut out a piece at the bottom with a pair of 6cissors to allow for drainage.

FEEDING GROWING CROPS. We have now reached the time of the year when growing crops will have exhausted much of the nutriment contained in the manure dug into the soil in early spring, and if a full winter store i.3 desired, together with a continuous supply of good, fresh vegetables as long as the growing 6eason lasts, something in addition to ordinary water must be provided. This is especially true where the gardens are of a hot, sandy nature, where a short spell of drought soon brings the growth of many of our vegetables to a standstill.

THE PANSY AND VIOLA. These delightful early-flowering plaute are the favourites of most people, and very few gardens are seen without some. Doubtless there are many gardeners who are desirous of perpetuating any specially attractive forma that they may have. This can be done by cuttinge or division. Provided the right kind of cuttings are taken, this means of propagation is not difficult. What is needed ie some nice light friable soil if possible, consisting chiefly of leaf aoil or ecrmc well-rotted old manure, and a position that is well shaded or can be kept ehaded. The pansy and viola like cool, moist surroundings, and particularly when put in as cuttings. The best cuttings are those eturdy little growths which spring from the base of the plant; in any case they muet not be hollow. The bed should be made flrro, and the cuttings inserted two or three inches apart. They must be kept well watered and shaded. Another method of increasing them is by mulching the growing plant with two inches of light, rich soil, then keeping the plant ■watered. It will be found that in a few weeks the plant ■will throw up a bunch of young growth from the centre, and the plant can then be lifted and divided, each of these growths making a plant, for it will be found that they have thrown out small white roots." The plants should not be lifted until the advent of moist weather, as hot, dry ■weather is fataj to newly-planted paalee vr-riaiaa, '•

Dwarf and runner beans ehould have tho soil loosened alongside the rows, not going too close so as to damage the roots. If dry, give a good soaking with clear water, then give a good sprinkling of soot or superphosphate, or both if given a day or so after each other, then give another watering, afterwards well hoeing the surface or mulching' with lawn clippings or manure. Every ten days or so liquid manure or a sprinkling of a good artificial should be given. Celer3 r and leeks will also pay for frequent applications of strong' liquid manure from now until the end of the growing season. Liquid manure made from cow or cheep droppings is one of the best, whilst nitrate of soda, added once a' fortnight, at the rate of 2oz to three or four gallons of water, will improve growth and quality. It will be found a good plan to make holes with a crowbar or stick, and to fill them frequently with manure water, which the Toots will soon find. Cauliflowers, cabbages, and any of such class respond to liberal supplies of manure water; in fa«t, where this ie used freply it goes for improved eize and quality, and in the case of cauliflowers often means the plants turn in more quickly. Whenever or whatever the liquid or artificial •manure used, it should always follow a good rain or a hand watering, and a good stirring of the eurface with the hoe ehould always follow.

LEEKS AND VEGETABLES. A good stimulant for leeke is half an ounce of nitrate of soda in one gallon of water, applied once a week, after first watering with clear water should the ground be dry. This may also be applied to any other "green" vegetables; it is at this time of the year that assistance with such stimulants is of great value.

PREPARING SWEET PEA TRENCHES. Sweet peas are deep-rooting pia< „ and require a plentiful supply of nourishment to bring the blooms to perfection; therefore the ground must be deeply dug, or trenched, and generously enriched with good manure, the preparation of the ground, of course, being best done some time before the seeds or plants are put ouc. The present is the time to prepare the ground, and if the plants are to be grown in a row a piece of ground the length of the row, and at least three feet wide, must be prepared. If more than one row is to be planted, a distance of at least six feet should be allowed between them. A good method where ground is limited, is to grow the peas in clumps, in which case the prepared ground should be at least three feet in diameter. The ground should be prepared by digging or trenching to three feet deep. Of course, all cannot trench to this depth, but the deeper the ground is prepared the better the flowers. A good dressing of farmyard manure should be applied to the bottom spit. Near the top a dressing of bonemeal should be mixed with the soil, and also a dressing of lime. About one pound of bonemeal and half a pound of slacked lime should be allowed to the square yard. It should be well mixed with the soil, and not simply scattered and left in layers. The ground should be left rough, so that the air can pass freely into it until required.

MUSHROOMS OUTDOOR. Mushrooms may be grown successfully outside in a rather warm and shady situation. If you intend growing them you will require to lose no time in making a start, as it takes about eight weeks to get them through. Procure one or two loads of short, fresh horee droppings; turn the manure at intervals of three days, and about three times, to take the fiery heat out of it. Then build your stack, which should be rounded at the top about the chape 01 an opened mushroom. Beat it down hrmly as you proceed, finishing off with a nice, smooth, firm, round top. Over this place a, layer of clean straw; over this again some big iboards, or something of the kind, to ward of heavy rains. Before this insert a sharp-pointed sticic or a thermometer, and when the heat has gont up to about 85 degrees break up the mushroom spawn into pieces about the size of large walnuts. Then make- little holes 9in apart all over the surface and about 3in deep. In these press the pieces of spawn and cover up the holes, making a nice firm and even surface, if the heat has been maintained and the spawn is good, in a week tne nryeelium will begin to spread. This is like little white threads. Then remove the straw carefully, and place a layer of fine, moist, turfy loam all over the surface aibout 2in or 3in deep, and pat it down firm and smooth. Replace the straw and the boards to ward off the heavy rains, and to hold the straw in position. If thinge go on well in about eight weeks or so mushrooms shoiue ibegin to make their appearance. When gathering the mushrooms Ibe caTeful to screw out each mushroom carefully. Do not cut them and leave the roots in, as these would decay and rot the mycelium, and consequently give a short season of crop. If each one is carefully screwed out the 'bed will g» on cropping a long time.

THE VALUE OF LEAVES. Now that the leaves are falling, it Jβ timely to speak of their great value for garden purposes- It is far better to collect them early, when we can get them without a lot of sticks, which are found later in the winter. Leaf mould eritera into nearly every compost for green." house plants. It retains the moisture, has an opening effect, and affords ascertain amount of nourishment.

Leaves are valuable for covering the crocks when potting, to prevent fine soil from blocking the drainage; and also for forming a hot-bed when mixed with stable litter. When leaves are put into a large heap they give out a fair amount of heat, though not so much as doe* stable dung, and may be used as * mild hot-bed. After having served this purpose, the leaves will still be available for forming leaf-mould.

I wonder have readers ever tried the following plan of making leaf-mould. I have used it thus for carnations, cyclamens, etc. Procure some good leaves t and dry them in a box or a eieve. Turn, them frequently, and when they are quite crisp, rub them through a quarterinch sieve. It seems to mc to -be * very good plan. A point should also be made of collecting leaves every year, co that we may have some leaf-mould a year old, or even two, for the leaves take a fair amount of time to rot, and cannot be used..a&Jeaf-juauld> under, .4 J£«fif »t least.

CLEAN TOOLS. Keep your garden took clean. A good, coat of linseed oil will render them impervious to moisture when laid by for , . any period. A shining epade indicate* real enthusiasm.

REPLANTING IXLIUMS. |9| Lift and replant 1 ilium candidum (Madonna lily) where not growing satisfactorily, as this is the only time it is really safe to move it, so impatient isit of disturbance. If the bulbs are found to be diseased, dust them, and also the soil, with a liberal application of flower* of sulphur, burning all diseased stems and leaves. Healthy plants are best left alone, so be sure that poor condition is not the result of previous over-disturb-ance before venturing to lift. Lilium testaceum, as well as the Madonna lily, should be planted some time during this month. This is a tall growing beauty in Nankeen yellow, and a most attractive border plant. In a good, well-drained soil it is easy to grow.

CUTTINGS OF HYDRANGEA. In the production of plants of a d*». corative size the cuttings are put itt within the next fortnight. The cutting! must be stout and strong, for although weak shoots will root readily enough, the probability is that -they -will not show a flower Lead. The points of the stem about six inches long should b* used. Cut the. stem straight just ibelow a pair of leaves, whichwilK be remc-. 'd, and also the pair abov»«/ ■ Use thumb pots filled -with goo* sandy* loam, with which some leaf soil has bee» mixed. Insert the cuttings singly i»' the centre of the pots, and press the ei*is firmly at the base of the cuttings. Plunge tie pots in a ibed of sifted askew and shade from the sun. The aim i4J' - root formation, instead of top growtlw ■■ so that plenty of air should be given*. To keep the atmosphere moist, overhead frequently. When roots are ■ moving freely, remove all shade an* t give air freely. The plants may then* be planted out, or next spring shift the* plants into five-inch pots, and place, them in a light position, where tbeyhave a free circulation of air aboufe them and be liberally eupplied "witlr water, and will make fine decorative; plants for the green house. Old plant» i in beds and borders have flowered .well ■ this year, and in order that light and aio can get into the bushes, all old and dis-. coloured flowerheade should be cufl, away.