NEW YEAR'S FASHIONS.

Auckland Star, Volume XLIX, Issue 11, 12 January 1918, Page 16

NEW YEAR'S FASHIONS.

I Parisian garments for the winter sea|son 1917-1918 have been planned to please rather than startle. In the j introduction of new styles no attempt lias been made to achieve bizarre effects at the expense of wearability and serviceability. .

The styles are well defined. Suite and coats are either simple and unornamented or frankly elaborate for more formal occasions. Later on will come the test of the appeal they make to those by whose inclination they stand or fall. The distinguishing feature of the latest dresses is the tunic, which is always well paßt the hip in length, and usually not more than 9in. to lOin. from the skirt hem. It is sometimes pleated and occasionally gathered. The underskirt is always rather narrow and plain. Another type of dress has a blouse-tunic—-or tunic proper—which is loosely belted at the waist, giving a deceptive effect of slendernesß even to a very stout figure. Another idea is that a suit-coat is not tlle place for the display of variety. It is not a separate garment, is the argument, but a part of a whole, nnd Bhould never vary far from the outline of the coat, nor have any feature which detracts from the effectiveness of the coat when the two are put together. There is a tendency, however, among the French designers, to indicate : the figure line, particularly above the I waist. Frequently the figure line is I made apparent by having the bodice I fastened at the side in shield effect, or jby the use of a surplice crossing, or by I drawing the fullness of the waist into the belt. Not only this, but in some I cases, darts are used. Tn fact, coats are being shown in which the back is niade in paddock effect. It must not be j supposed, however, that Paris eouturi- ' eres have any intention of adopting what may be termed the regular fitted idea. They are not doing this, and they are not likely to, for they realise that such styles are always a bad proposition on account of the difficulty involved In making alterations. As regards materials, wool velours in various forms and finishes are much liked. Broadcloths are being freely employed. Cheviots, serges and poplins are being looked upon with favour. Many of the coats are made of rich woollens, nnd these often have the long nap and the soft, velvety finish. Some of the new coatings, as well as the wool velours suitings, have the silvery finish which is now so much in vogue. Velvet is employed for evening coats, and is expected to have use for suits later in the season. Silk velours coats are selling readily, and silk plush coats are still better. Serges continue to be the leading material for dresses.

In the silk line satins are very strong, both in dark and in light shades, tho former for street wear and the latter for afternoon. Such employment as there is for taffetas is generally for those in novelty effects, and in these taffetas is generally used in combination with serge or some other cloth. Besides being used for coats and suits, velvet is expected to have employment for afternoon gowns and for semi-evening dresses later in the season. Velvet is also being used for

trimming purposes. Many of the afternoon gowns are trimmed with lace. Dressmakers are also showing dresses entirely made of black lace or of white lace with emphasis on the black. The material for separate skirts include serge, gabardine, prunella and satin. For separate blouses of a dressy character sheer silk crepe, chiffon and lace are extensively employed, with crepe de chine and a fair quantity of cotton fabrics for the tailor-made blouses.

The tendency, says our Parisian correspondent, for subdued colours is very marked. Thus we find many suits and separate coats and afternoon dresses for street wear in navy, brown, hunter's green, mulberry, wine and taupe, as well as in black. Combinations of navy and black are also excellent. In dinner gowns the demand is for subdued tones, but in rich shades of gold, Chinese green, blue and grey. Black is also favoured for evening wear. 1 may here mention, en paranthese, that evening dresses are only made and designed for exportation, Parisiennes having for two years past abandoned the wearing of evening clothes.