GARDEN TOPICS

Ashburton Guardian, Volume 70, Issue 287, 21 September 1950, Page 3

GARDEN TOPICS

AMONG THE FLOWERS

Written for the “Guardian” by A. F.

MORGAN, N.D.H. (N.Z.L F.R.I.H. (N.Z.) Conditions are now ideal for all the spring jobs required in the garden, and with the soil now in a pleasant condition to work, and warmer days being experienced, there is every inducement to go ahead with the many items requiring attention. Frosts can be expected for some time yet but will not interfere with the work to be done, with the exception that any planting of half hardy subjects should be held over for some time yet. August was an exceptionally wet month, with the result that soils became packed, and one of the first jobs at the moment should be to hoe through beds or borders containing flowering material such as polyanthus, poppies, wallflower, pansies, etc., to break the bard surface crust which hay have formed, so allowing the free circulation of air, and at the same time destroying weed seedlings. Both polyanthus and poppies respond very well at this stage of their groAvth to weekly applications of liquid manure made from cow or sheep manure, but failing this a good substitute can be made by mixing a dessertspoonful of fish manure to a’ two-gallon can of water. Stir vigorously for a few minutes and water the plants immediately. Iceland poppies can be encouraged to flower many weeks longer than usual if tlie dead flowers are religiously removed and the plants givdn this liquid manuring at intervals. Afttr the initial hoeing at this time of the year, they should not again he hoed during their growth; the reason for this is that all the feeding roots are on the surface and are most active from nowon. Tljey like particularly a surface mulch of good compost, which should be applied an inch thick if possible after the first hoeing and thereafter no more cultivating is necessary or even wise.

Now is the time to sow spring lawns and again the soil is in ideal condition for this work. Use the standard mixture of 2 parts chewings fescue to 1 part of browntop and sow at the rate of loz of seed to each square yard of ground. Sow at the same time a mixture of 3 parts sulphate of ammonia and 1 part superphosphate, also at loz per square yard. The fertiliser can be broadcast either before or after the seed and both raked in. together. Birds will be troublesome (although it is doubtful if they eat such a great lot of the seed), hut a little red lead mixed thoroughly with the seed before sowing- will discourage them. Old, weedy lawns can be cleaned up very easily with one of the hormone weedkillers, but to be fully effective they require fairly warm day temperatures so that this work rvould be better left until the middle, or end of next month. A much better kill is also obtained if the weeds are in vigorous growth when the hormone is applied, and to bring this about the area to be treated should he given an application of 3 parts sulphate of ammonia and 1 part superphosphate, at loz per square yard, a fortnight beforehand. If conditions are dry at the time give the lawn a good watering following the application of fertiliser. Gravel paths, drives, etc., may be getting weedy at this time of the year, and soon become, unsightly. In this case use a straight out weedkiller such as Murton’s, which kills grasses as well as other weed growth. Lawn edges can he trimmed now that the heaviest frosts are over and it is surprising how neatly cut edges add to the appearance of the garden. A. good garden line and a very sharp edging knife are necessary, and cut the edges on a 45-degree angle so that they will not crumble or break when walked on.

Bedding out plants of the hardy varieties only, can be planted out from boxes this month. All of the halfhardy kinds such as petunias, salvias, zinnias, ageratum, French and African marigolds, and nemesia are frost, tender and are better left until late October unless the position is well sheltered.

Sweet peas, although usually autumn sown, can be sown now out-doors where they are to flower and will give a late display. Autumn sown ones, which are growing- strongly and are to be grown as cordons for exhibition, should be trained by removing all tendrils and side shoots and tying the stems to some form of support; light manuka sticks are ideal for this purpose.

Vegetable Garden Sowing of most vegetables with the exception of French and runner beans, marrows, pumpkins, etc., can be made, paying particular attention to successional sowings of salad crops. Potatoes placed in boxes some time ago should be sprouting nicely now and when ready can be planted in a warm spot. Plant only a row or two just yet so that they can be conveniently covered if it becomes necessary. To plant 100 feet of row, 16-201bs of seed potatoes are required when planted 14-16 ins. apart. Epicure is probably the most favoured variety in the “earlies” and Doon Early is becoming popular. After the ground has been prepared, lines should be drawn 3ft. apart, and along these lines, furrows 3-4 ins. deep should be formed with a goosenecked hoe. Mixed * fertiliser, composed of 3 parts superphosphate and 1 part sulphate of ammonia, should be distributed along the furrows at the rate of Jib to each Oft. of row. The seed can now be planted in the bottom of the furrow, about 14ins. apart, and then covered with 3-4 ins. of soil. Tomatoes Although too early yet to consider planting tomatoes outside, the ground could be prepared now and should be given a fertiliser dressing three weeks before the plants are set out; this should consist of 11 parts of bonemeal, 1 part dried blood, and 1 h parts of sulphate of potash, at 1-3 11) per square .yard well forked into the soil.