THE GARDEN

Ashburton Guardian, Volume 59, Issue 16, 29 October 1938, Page 3

THE GARDEN

GENERAL ROUTINE WORK, (Written for the “Guardian” by W. B. Bbockiu, N.D.H., N.Z.) PLANTS UNDER GLASS. Tuberous Begonias for greenhouse decoration should now be sufficiently advanced for potting singly into six or seven-inch pots. A moist atmosphere should be created by damping the floors and benches on all bright, hot days. Avoid excessive heat by giving plenty of ventilation, but draughts must be guarded against. For a week or two after potting watering must on no account be overdone. If the pot is rapped with the knuckles or with a piece of wood, a clear ringing sound will indicate that water is required. Seedlings sown in early spring will now be pricked off and deyeloping rapidly in boxes. When large enough, pot them singly into three-inch pots, using a mixture of good pasture loam, leafmould and sand.

Schizanthus that are in full flower will have their flowering period extended considerably if they are given weak liquid cow manure at every watering.

Chrysanthemums are mow putting on good growth in their five-inch pots. At this time they do best standing on a bed of ashes in an open-topped but well-sheltered frame. Small stakes will be required to keep them growing erect. See that they are well supplied with water and syringe the foliage regularly during bright weather. liemove weeds from the pots as soon as they, appear. Cuttings of chrysanthemums may still be put in for flowering in six-inch pots. These will mot make large plants, not' will the blooms be so big as those started in 'the winter and in the early spring, butffor decorative purposes in the conservatory or elsewhere they are extremely useful. They should be trained to one stem. It is not too late to sow seieds of zinnia, pasters, bedding salvias and African marigolds, but there should be mo delay Whatever in getting them in. Fairly rich but sandy soil that will drain water quickly is most suitable for the young seedlings, and if mild bottom heat can be provided for th© boxes or seed pans germination will bo quicker. THE FLOWER GARDEN, Use the hoe fneely in. all shrub and flower borders and remove by band or with a small handfork weeds growing in the centre of the plants. On heavy soils, inclined to cake on the surface in dry weather, hoeing should lie done regularly whether weeds are present or not. A light forking now and again will freshen the appearance of the borders besides aerating the soil and improving its permeability to rain and artificial watering.

The summer bedding season lias mow commenced in earnest, but it will be a week or more yet before beds of wallflower, polyanthus, forget-me-not and double daisies can bo cleared,' so attention can be given mainly to planting up unoccupied areas and in filling spaces in the herbaceous and shrubbery sections. Almost all kinds of summer bedding plants can be used for these purposes, but for formal bedding schemes those which continue for a long time in flower are most suitable. Included in the latter category are antirrhinums, zonal geraniums, zinnias, dahlias, French and African marigolds, salvia, verbena, begonia sempervirens amd the edging plants of sweet alyssum. blue lobelia, ageratum and golden feather. The gorgeous liued but short-lived nemesia is extremely useful for underplanting these formal beds.

Far South African annuals such as arctotis, venidium, ursinia and dimorphotheca, a position exposed to the full, sun is essential. Many of these will flower freely in fairly poor soil, but best results are obtained where the soil is naturally rich, and welldrained. In like situations, too, may be grown Golden Gleam nasturtiums, Californian poppy, and statice. These sun lovers are extremely attractive when growing in association with yuccas, agapanthus, dahlias, and redliot pokers. Salpiglossis succeeds best where it is lightly shaded from the mid-day sun. One of the most valuable bedding plants is the petunia. It will thrive in any situation and soil, though, of course, it will do best in good soil with full sun. In places, however, where most annuals would not live at all, as in poor sandy soil under trees, petunias will survive and, will at least provide some colour.

For filling large beds or lawlis dahlias are particularly well adapted. One distinct variety planted in each bed is most effective, but a mixture ol varieties is pleasing and interesting. In planting beds of mixed varieties it will of course bo necessary to pay attention to the different heights and plant the smaller kinds at the edge. For a really distinctive show, however, I recommend 1 planting for a mass display of some of the newer varieties. Put stakes-to all tall growing subjects in the herbaceous border before the stems fall ovor. They are most difficult to get back into shape if allowed to sprawl on the ground even for a few days. For covering fences, tree stumps and clay banks, climbing annuals such as sweet peas- nfftturtiums and Morning Glory ate quick growing and decorative. When past their best aubretias and arabises should be clipped hard back to encourage the growth ol basal shoots. When these have grown about two inches tlie clumps may be divided and replanted in moist soil. VEGETABLES. . Stake green peas with branch stakes or if these are not procurable support them with lengths of twine attached to wooden stakes. Dead spruce branches make tho best support. Sow silver beet, salsify, globe and long beet, maize, vegetable marrows, pumpkin and dwarf and runner beans. Also make successional sowings _ol green peas, lettuce, radish, turnips, and spinach. Thin carrots and parsnips befojre they begin to get crowded. Choose a time when the soil is moist arid the remaining plants will suffer no check from root disturbance. Tomatoes should be tied to their stakes as growth proceeds. All lateral and basal shoots must he pinched out early. 'See that they do not suffer from lack of water. Continue to plant cabbage and cauliflower. Keep the hae going amongst all crop- and remove eairly any deep rooting weeds such as docks and dandelions. , Give a dressing of sulphate of am-

moma, about half a pound to ten square yards, to onions, cabbage, spinach, and lettuce, or nitrate of soda may lie used at the rate of about half that quantity for the same area. Nitrate of soda applied to cabbage when they are at the hearting stage induces Mery rapid growth. In this connection I would point out that if cabbage plants are preserved from the attacks of the white butterfly grub until the hearting stage is reached there will be little trouble from the pest afterwards as the young leaves develop in the centre of the hearts and are thus protected. Spraying with arsenate of lead will keep the grubs in control until hearts are formed and a final spray on the outer leaves afterwards will protect the growing leaves within. It is when these young leaves are developing in the centre of the heart that an application of ,nitrate of soda will quicken growth. This artificial manure is best applied during rain or it may be watered in.