THE GARDEN

Ashburton Guardian, Volume 55, Issue 273, 31 August 1935, Page 3

THE GARDEN

WORK FOR THE WEEK THE GREENHOUSE. (Written for the “Guardian” by J. A. McPherson, N.D.H., N.Z.)

Several plants which have been lying dormant during the winter are now showing signs of growth.

Begonia tubers can be brought forward and starred into growth. When the new growths are two inches long the tubers can be repotted into a turfy mixture to which sand and rotted cow manure has been added. All pots should be thoroughly cleaned before work of repotting starts and if new pots are to be used, see that they are soaked in a tub of water for at least half an hour.

Gloxinias of interest to readers with heated greenhouses, should be brought forward and Leafed in ia similar manner to begonias with this exception, that they require more heat. Fuchsias are commencing to show activity, and once the leaf buds start to burst, the plants can be shaken out of the old soil and repotted. Being woody stemmed plants and gross feeders, the potting soil should have bone meal added at the rate of one five-inch pot-ful to every barrowful of prepared soil. Bee that these plants are potted very linnly. Soft-wooded cuttings of fuchsias and foliage Coleus will root readily at the present time if inserted in pots ol sandy soil. From now on the main batch of annuals may be raised from seed. There are, however, three exceptions, namely, asters, salvia bonfire and marigolds (French and African), and these should not be sown for at least anothei month. The Flower Garden. Crocuses have finished blooming and narcissii are fast pushing up their flower spikes. All beds of spring blooming bulbs and plants should be quietly gone oyer ‘during a dry day, weeds removed and the surface soil lightly stirred with a small digging fork to let in air and warmth. Any anemones and ranunculus showing the least signs of foliage rust should be sprayed with lime sulphur or colloidal sulphuir at summer- strength. Both these plants require cool root-room and will not tolerate a soil which cakes hard on the surface. Should the weathei prove dry, see that they receive a good watering. In the herbaceous border many ot the plants are commencing to shoot. U Michaelmas daisies, heleniums, phlox, and delphiniums have not been divided see to this work immediately. All these subjects are gross feeders and should bo supplied with plenty of rotted manure dug into the soil, and later again assisted by forking in an ounce of superphosphate to the square yard. Delphiniums are subject to attacks which if not checked will quickly cripple the foliage. Spray with colloidal sulphur every fortnight. The season is advancing rapidly ana most deciduous shrubs are showing either flower or leaf buds. Any transplanting should he seen to this coming week. Evergreens and native plants can be planted till the end of September and it will not hurt rhododendrons and azaleas if they are planted when in full flower. The two last mentioned plants should not be allowed to form seed heads, for this always proves a big strain and prevents newly planted specimens fion producing the necessary wood for next season’s "flowering buds. hen new y planted these shrubs should he carefully. watched the first season until they are established. Never let them suffer from want of water and if P • sible mulch the plants with decayed leaves »r willow roots, billow roots cut from the banks of streams make an ideal protecting mulch for hot rhododendrons and azaleas. , Hardy heaths that hwve finished flowering should have the old flowering wood out right hack. This permits the plants to develop the maxundm amount of growth before next flowering season Though it may he too late tor thi season, readers should be*r m nund that there are several flowering, ie and shrubs which require spraying o rid them of insect and fungoid pests. Flowering apples, pears, plums, towthorns, cherries, dogwoods, nhbonwoods, etc., are readily attacked by various types of scale which il no checked keep the plants in a most stunted condition. Flowering peaches, too, are attacked) by leaf-curl which quickly cripples all leaves and stunts the plants as well. For this latter pest Bordeaux mixture applied just, as tne young buds commence to show green is the most effective remedy. It is hardly fair to the nearby oreliardist for the grower of any of the above plants to neglect taking the proper steps to keep pests under control. . _ IPolyanthus and primroses aie often attacked by birds which pull the young flower heads to pieces. can be avoided if a few inconspicuous pegs are driven into the ground and black cotton stretched from peg to peg at a distance just above the bloom P Newfy planted roses can be looked over and when commencing to shoot away, pruned hard back Do not bo afraid to be severe with this hist pruning, for it is the only way o es tablish well shaped hushes and firm robust wood. Recent experiments have proved that the application of potash assists greatly in keeping down mildew on roses. The potash assists in firming up the tissues of both stems and leaves an makes them more resistant to this most prevalent of all rose diseases. Fork" in half an ounce of sulphate of potash to every square yard of ground. The Vegetable Garden. Any time from now on, provided the soil is not sticky, a start cam be made to plant out seedling onions. These seedlings you will remember are the result of sowing the seed in early autumn and allowing the plants to grow slowly during the fall of the year

and be ready for setting out at the present time. This method of onion raising has an advantage over a spring sown crop in that the bulbs mature much earlier and are therefore very suitable for land that is inclined to dry out rapidly in the summer. From the autumn sown crop can always be found excellent and heavy bulbs for the show bench.

If in past years any reader has found that liis spring planted onions have- a tendency to run to seed, the fault will be found in too early sowing in the autumn. Next season sow a fortnight to three weeks later and the trouble will disappear. /Soil for onions, whether it be for transplanted seedlings or for seedsowing direct into the drills, should be on the rich side and well drained. Light land must he provided with animal manures dug well down during the late autumn and winter, and a week before planting a dressing of soot and blood and bone meal can be forced into the top spit. At one time it was considered necessary to heavily consolidate the land for onion growing, but this can be overdone, and provided a good tramping and raking of the soil is given while bringing the surface to a fine tilth, this should provide sufficient firming. Very light land may, however, require the use of a light roller.

When lifting the seedlings prior to transplanting, be careful to disturb the roots as little'as possible, and always remember that the most important point in onion growing is not to bury the bulb or seedling base. Plant firmly with just sufficient bulb in the soil to hold the plant steady. Rows can be fifteen inches apart and the plants spaced six to nine inches apart in. the rows. Properly handled and fed ’occasionally during the growing season with a little sulphate of ammonia or nitrate of soda worked in as a topdressing between the rows, yery large bulbs should be obtained. If autumn sowing has been neglected one can still rush on plenty of seedlings by sowing the seed' under glass in gentle bottom heat, pricking off the seedlings into boxes as soon as large enough to handle, harden them off when four inches liigh, and plant out direct from the boxes with as little disturbance to the roots as possible. Towards the end of this month a start can be made to sow onion seed direct into the open ground. The chief point to bear in mind is to keep the drills of even depth and thus avoid having part of the crop good and the other part showing signs of thick neck on account of deep sowing. Rows aie generally spaced twelve to fifteen inches apart, and thinning takes place when the seedlings are three inches high. The final distance to be left between the plants will vary from three to eight inches according to the type grown and as to whether special ieeding is to be given in order to build up show bulbs. A good plate of onions is always a strong point on a vegetable stand at any show. Supplies of parsley are geneially scarce at this time of the year and no time should be lost in making a sowing. The seed takes a little while bo germinate and on account of constant cropping of the foliage, the seed should ho sown in very good land, preferably bordering a pathway and permit of easy* access. Another sowing should be made towards the end of October. It is a little early to plant out new beds of asparagus, but old established ones can have the soil stirred on the surface and a dressing of rotted manure given. In very cold districts tins dressing can be held over till the end of the month, thus permitting the soil to thoroughly warm up before the mulch is added. Sow carlv peas, broad beans, and carrots, and protect the former from birds. , - Sow lettuce, cauliflower and cabbageon sheltered beds, and 1 plant out both cabbage and lettuce from autumn raised seedlings. Sow spinach and keep making a sowing -each fortnight till mid-summer.