FROM A PARISIENNE’S NOTEBOOK

Wanganui Chronicle, Volume 71, Issue 291, 8 December 1928, Page 16 (Supplement)

FROM A PARISIENNE’S NOTEBOOK

NEW SEASON RUMOURS (By Yvonne Rodier) (Specially written for the ‘ ‘ Chronicle ’ ’) As always, at the beginning of a new season, all manner of sartorial rumours are rife. There are daily predictions that the old elaborate train, the bustle, aud even the crinoline are to become faits accomplis. But all this gossip is resolving itself into the usual limited display of outre modes at the Paris collections. They invoke interest and conjecture, but they do not typify the season’s more general trend. It is true that trains —in such modified forms as side-panels and ‘floats’ —are a notable feature of the draping vogue, and that bustle effects in the shape of huge bows continue tu characterise the picture-frock. But all these have been with us for some time. Such draperies, that constitute a pronounced phase of modern dress, arc more uneven than ever, and take on a very definite dip at the back. On blouses and simple lace dinner

gowns with short basque appears, the basque being notably in keeping with all sorts of other drapery, pleats, and gathers. In the case of basqued models there is much closer fitting and shaping at the waistline, bashes arc to bo worn again, and the wide side or back bow is apparently to reign supreme among the wealth of drapery motifs. La Mode, in brief, has become really and very definitely picturesque; yet, notwithstanding this insistent trend, the modern woman is equally insistent on the preservation of the slim silhouette, even though it departs from ‘‘la garconnc” ideal of a while

"One of the great Paris dross artists is showing a lovely range of woven fabrics suitable for country dressing. Despite the brilliance of their colouring. the designs are exquisitely blended in such manner as to show a soft surface weave. Bright heliotrope, for example, is ‘‘brushed” with grey; yellow or blue with white. The same subtle weaving characterises the newest checks. Into hopsacks and certain makes of serge is introduced a most attractive woven-over stripe.

Quite a number of tweed fabrics arc loosely woven in basketwork designs. Flecks harmonise delightfully into he softer schemes of shadings. Nothing “loud” or “sudden” is permitted. French tailors are still much enamoured of English flannel and suitings, and there is a great demand for British tweeds as well as for artificial silks of English manufacture.

Quaint new dross accessories include tiny vanity boxes of enamel, inlaid with lacquered designs, and fitted with clasps and hinges of diamonds and other stones. There is some lovely engraved work on square cigarette or “make-up” boxes. Very decorative are the latest shoes for evening wear. Crepe de chine shoes “de fantaisie,” to match the dress, have trimmings and straps of jewelled embroideries.

Fans arc carried with picture frocks, and large flat pochettes of black velvet or moire, with tops and monograms in marquisette or finest enamel work. A slender anklet in diamonds is the last word in chic.