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THE GARDEN.

WORK FOR THE WEEK. KITCHEN GARDEN. Seeds to Sow.-—Broad beans, pens, spinach. What to Plant.—Cabbage, cauliflower, lettuce. Work in the kitchen garden must be governed by the weather. When the surface is wet, and the soil sticks to the feet, it is wise to keep off tho ground, especially if it has been turned over this season. To get about on it. when it is wet does more harm than than one can explain, therefore, keep •off until the moisture dries up. FLOWER GARDEN. Roses are about the most profitable of flowering shrubs, and they are growing m popularity. The demand for them, is greater this season than ever, and many who have not •»secured the varieties they want will not be able to obtain some af the most popular varieties. It is gratifying to note a great change in making a selection of roses. The old method of planting as many varieties as plants in one collection has gone, and now the plan of having several plants of one variety has been adopted. This is more profitable m every way, more especially for cutting blooms for the vases- One can get enough blossoms for the table from three or four plants, and not take every flower, some being left to. decorate the garden. Several of the strong growing varieties should be planted as shrubs, in the larger borders. They. make big heads and give large quantities of fine blossoms. Geo. Arends, Hugh Dickson, Madam Segontl Webber, Frau Karl Drusehki and Betty are the typo to put in the borders. These are strong in habit. They will send up shoots four to five feet long, and when the flowers are open one can cut each one i with a long stem, a condition so valuable- for decoration. There are no other flowering shrubs as profitable as these for supplying out flowers. There are very few flowering shrubs that remain in flower more than six weeks, ericas and spartiuin excepted, but roses will give blossoms for six months in most gardens, and in sheltered positions several weeks longer. Roses that have been planted some years, and show signs of weakness both in their growth and quality of flowers should be taken up, the roots and branches pruned hard back, and then replanted. If in the same bed, then wheel the old soil away and replace it with fresh soil from a field, or grass paddock if it can be obtained. But if such is not obtainable take soil from the kitchen garden, selecting that from the heaviest quarters. Roses thrive best in a loamy soil that us brown, and nearly as li.ea.vy as clay. Don’t hesitate to cut the roots hard back. IVhen you dig the old plants up you will find that the roots are almost bare and fibreless. Out these bare roots off, nearly close to the base of the plants, and when the spring arrives a fresh crop of fibrous roots will grow and give a new and vigorous lease of life to tho plants. Bulbs are fast pushing up through the ground, and unless w© have a spell of cold, damp weather they will flower much earlier than usual. Go through all the clumps and rows and remove any weeds. If these are left to get big the bulb foliage and flower stems will suffer later on when the weeds are taken out. If any of the shrubs or trees have grown too big for their positions, cut them back a.s soon as possible, especially the deciduous kinds. The sooner whatever cutting has to be done to these trees and shrubs is finished the better. They will (begin to make fresh growth next month, and it would be unwise to get about them just as they are swelling up the buds to bursting point. GREENHOUSE. Keep the air fairly dry inside glasshouses during damp, dull weather. Don’t use more fire* heat than is absolutely necessary, and be very sparing with water. The plants will need but little during this damn soell unless there is overmuch artificial heat. Ferns that are to be shaken out. divided and repotted next month should be kept on the dry side to keep the crowns quite dormant. If the plants are watered the young fronds will push out from the crown, and when the plants are divided these will perish, because most of the old roots are cut off. Therefore keep them cool and dry.

Climbing' plants on the roof and against pillars should he pruned severely. There is a- tendency to leave too much wood in these plants, and as a result they become too dense, w th a lot of weakly shoots that do not flower freely or give good blossoms. The young growths could be thinned in the spring, but tho shoots will be on the small side owing to tho big number. It is much the best practice to thoroughly thin the growths now, and so encourage fewer but stronger new shoots.

ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS

E G.W.—Prunus pissardi can be propagated by seeds, grafted on plum or thorn stocks, or struck from cuttings. The most satisfactory method is by grafting on to young plum stocks in the spring, about September. Soft young shoots of last season's growth, about ten inches long, taken now and put in light sandy soil, will strike, but they do not make su-oTj satisfactory plants as those grafted. Collect the fruits when they - are ripe, and plant them in ordinary soil three inches deep. There must be something very radically wrong with .your greengage tree, but one cannot determine what is the trouble without inspection.

Permanent link to this item

https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/TS19210624.2.35

Bibliographic details

Star (Christchurch), Issue 16461, 24 June 1921, Page 6

Word Count
943

THE GARDEN. Star (Christchurch), Issue 16461, 24 June 1921, Page 6

THE GARDEN. Star (Christchurch), Issue 16461, 24 June 1921, Page 6

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