THE GARDEN.

Star (Christchurch), Issue 12284, 5 April 1918, Page 6

THE GARDEN.

WORK FOR THE WEEK. KITCHEN GARDEN. Seeds lo Sow.- -Broad beans, eahba.ee, cauliflower, lettuce, onions, sumach turnip. 1 filial te> Plant.—Cabbage, lettuce, late savoys. Keep fallen leaves cleared away from seedling crops of lettuce, onions and spinach. Strong winds will blow them on those plots, but they should be removed as soon ns possible. They harbour all kinds of insects and keep tho warm sunshine off the young vegetables. As last ns summer props "a re cleared trench the vacant plots, leaving the surface ns rough as possible. Bnrv as much vegetable refuse as possible. \Vben rotted this makes good manure for future crops. Where early supplies of forced rbubarlj luivo to bo provided :i start should be made at once. Carefully lift a number of roots and leave them on the surface to go to rest. Don’t, pull or break the stalks. Leave these on the, crowns to gradually ripen and shrivel up. ROOT-PRUNING. Fruit trees that hear hut little fruit, although they make a lot of growth, should have their roots lifted and pruned some time during April nr ala.'. It is of little use cutting awav a lot of the top growth. This will encourage the formation of another lot nest summer. The best method to encourage these vigorous trees lo hear fruit ms to open a trench round the tree five or six feet from the stem, uncover (he roots with care, and all that strike down into tho subsoil should be cut, if they cannot he lifted and relaid m a horizontal position. If (he trees are very big do one half this autumn, the other half next scasor. 1f all the roots are lifted this autumn there is a risk of strong winds blowing the trees over next, spring, before tile root system is re-established enough to keep the trees in position. This method of treatment will bring the trees into fruition much sooner and surer than branch printing. FLOWER GARDEN. Spring Bedding.—Much reluctance is otten shown in clearing beds of their summer occupants, although their effectiveness is go no for this season. This should bo the signal for clearing thorn away ami replanting tho bods with tho spring flowering plants. The earlier these arc in their final positions the belter. If they have time to got well; established before tho winter sets in they suffer less from frost, aud give a much better display of flowers in tho spring. Remember these plants require food if they arc to do well, so dig in a good quantity of rich manure before the plants are set in the beds. Wallflowers, forget-me-nots, silene and other spring flowering plants arc well known and grown in large minihors, but one of tho most useful is the Heuclieras. Although these do not flower in the spring, they retain their leaves through the winter, and their neat habit warrants their presence among the. scheme of spring bedding. Small shrubs are very effective in flower beds during the winter, especially in beds that aro planted wfith bulbs, llicy take away the bareness until the bulb foliage is above ground, and they afford some protection to (he blossoms during windy weather. Tlis shrubs will last several winters. They can be taken up at the end erf tiio spring and put in a shady part of Itho kitchen garden for the summer. Cuttings of trees and shrubs may be put in during this month. A number of relinosporas, junipers, enonymus, cuprcssus. etc., may he struck in a. cold frame. Those will come in for future spring bedding aud furnishing hare places in tho shrubberies, when they have grown too big for the flower beds. Bulbs should he planted as soon as possible. Tulips aud hyacinths should not bo kept out of the ground much longer. Do l not plant, all the ranunculus at one time; make at least three plantings at intervals, to provide flowers for cutting over a long period. Bulbs are beautiful aud useful in the spring, therefore plant them freely. GREENHOUSE. With shorter days aud less sunshine the question of light in the glasshouses must receive attention, especially the “ fixed ” (or permanent) shading; if this is kept on the roof too far iuto the dull season the plants tinder the shade will suffer for want of light aud will bo less able to pass the winter owing to their soft condition. It is not- wise to remove all the shading at one time; the better plan is to take away some now, and when the plants have got used to the extra light take away the balance; this will involve a little extra work, but the advantages will more than repay this. a Climbing plants sliold ho thinned out by cutting away most of the shoots that aro not wanted for next season. If all tho surplus shouts are removed now those left will get more light to ripen the growth and plump up the flower buds. Chrysanthemums. All forward plants should be put under cover; a slight frost will injure tho buds that arc just beginning to hurst, and we may have frost any night after this 'late. Intending exhibitors are very busy among their plants, getting their blooms finished by the date of the show, ibis, work is both casv and interesting to the experienced grower, but it is a very anxious time for new growers who wish to win some jiriy.es. . One of the most, difficult problems is to retard or keep fresh the oarlv developed blooms.

i lo prevent loss nf “colour” nnd damping'' mill require much careful attention. Shading should he provided an good time t 0 keep the colour in the outer petals. Once this begins to <r o the 'doom loses value iu both colour and freshness, two of the most important points that go to make a good flower. The shading should not be*fixed if a, movable arrangement can he provided. Although the shade is needed to ward off the direct rays of hot sunshine, too much shading ‘ tends tc, make the petals soft. Keep the aluuw sphere, as dry as posihle. If thet'e is much moisture in the atmosphere, ths soft petals will “damp," and ouee a petal shows signs nf “damping” remove it immediately. It is useless lo dust it. with sulphur, for ouee decomposition sets in it will go on and affect all other petals that touch the one that is '‘damping.'’ Some ent away the part that has damped. This is useless. Carefully pull the petal out is the best treatment. Water snariugly, and use very little manure water. Too many plants are spoilt by giving them strong doses of sulphate of ammonia or nitrate of soda to force oiven backward buds. A much better method is to put these backward plants in the warmest position, where they get, nil the sunshine there is, nud increase the temperature by artificial heating. This will hasten the development of the late hurls without, injuring the plants. Plants grown to produce a quantity of flowers for cutting should have very little artificial plant food. The bloom* lasi, longer if grown in good soil uTthont overmuch artificial feeding.