NEW ZEALAND LOSES HUGE SUM

Taranaki Daily News, 21 June 1928, Page 7

NEW ZEALAND LOSES HUGE SUM

MAKING CHEESE TOO RICH IN FAT

RETURN TO LOWER TEST IMPERATIVE

WHAT TOKAORA EXPERIMENT S SHOW

This, the third, instalment of the report on the experiments conducted by Mr. P. 0. Veale, 8.A., M.Sc., scientist in charge of the Hawera dairy laboratory", on the relative value of high and low-testing milks for cheesemaking, deals with the reports of the London committee of merchants upon the various trial shipments sent in connection with the experiments. The report brings out some very important facts calling for urgent consideration and action. It shows clearly that by sending Home cheese rich in butter-fat content we not only are receiving no advantage for the extra fat but actually are prejudicing our position and making an article not wanted by the consumers. It is shown also that there are considerable faults in manufacture that must be rectified if we are to range alongside the Canadian cheese in the matter of prices. Summarised, these are the chief points in this part of this most valuable report, which should be carefully read and digested by every supplier to a cheese factory

General use of pasteurisation of milk would ensure uniformity in the manufactured article. Some of our cheese is too open in texture; it should be pressed for three days, not one as now.

Duplicate sets of presses should be installed in factories to permit of this.

Temperature of curing rooms should be regular and “cool curing” be done for a longer period.

A high moisture content does not necessarily produce a weak, pasty, sticky body; often it is due to an error of judgment in manufacture, such as an excess of acid, which suits the Jersey milk but does not suit the low-testing milk.

There is a tendency to favour a “white” cheese, and an objection to the “coloury” Jersey article. The low-testing breeds yield a cheese which conforms with the preference of the trade at Home.

The “ideal” cheese, so far as fat content is concerned, is one much lower than prescribed by the New Zealand Government. Instead of 55 per cent, of fat the market will be satisfied with 49 to 50 per cent. s

A fat test of about 4 per cent, in milk is likely to produce the ideal cheese required by" the market.

Percentages of 56 per cent, indeed are not satisfactory to buyers. Sending such cheese is an economic waste of the greatest magnitude.

A return to more reasonable butter-fat tests is imperative.

The right course open to us is the more widespread adoption of the lower testing breeds.

THE QUALITY OF THE CHEESE. REPORT OF LONDON COMMITTEE Sufficient has already been stated regarding the out-turn of the experimental cheese in London to make it clear that, taken as a whole, the cheese was considered rather poor and disappointing in quality, notwithstanding the fact that practically 95 per cent, of it was graded ’‘first grade” in New Zealand. No doubt this disappointment is closely connected with the following facts: —Firstly that all the experimental cheese was made from unpasteurised ' milk; and secondly that two thirds of the experimental cheese consisted of low testing material of high moisture content, and that this moisture favoured the development on frequent occasions, not only of excess acid with its damaging effects upon the body and texture, but also of micro-organisms which exercised a deleterious influence upon the flavour. PASTEURISATION. If such is the explanation, it is a Strong argument in favour of the still wider adoption of the pasteurisation of milk for cheesemaking, as this process -is a very important insurance against Subsequent deterioration of the cheese. It has been suggested in some quarters that the present New Zealand tendency to make pasteurisation universal is a mistake, in that it results in a cheese which is unsuited to the Home markets. The general attitude of English buyers to this question, however, is well put by A. W. Heyes, esq.. of Messrs. Henry A. Lane and Co. Ltd.. London. as follows ‘‘The consumer here does not care whether the cheese is pasteurised or not, bo long as you give the flavour and character of cheese required. Neither does the distributor pay any serious attention to it. There are just as many dealers and retailers who prefer nonpasteurised cheese as there are who prefer pasteurised cheese. In some districts, non-pasteurised cheese is favoured because it ripens quicker, and carries a bite with it they like. In other districts where they only want mild flavour, they prefer pasteurised cheese. The majority of English consumers prefer a niutl cheese.” It is therefore apparent that the question “to pasteurise or not to pasteurise” is very little debated by our consumers, and that their main concern is cleanliness of flavour, and closeness and smoothness in body and texture Such being the case, the present investigation affords a strong argument in favour of the pasteurisation of milk for cheesemaking. This process certainly results in a very much greater uniformity in flavour, body and texture, and considerably reduces, if it does not frequently eliminate, the chances of subsequent deterioration of the cheese. This investigation shows that a large proportion of raw-milk cheese graded as “first grade” in New Zealand is likely to develop faults of a serious nature by the time it goes into consumption in England. Therefore we are justified in

taking the necessary steps to reduce or eliminate this tendency, namely by making the pasteurisation of cheese milk universal. If this process should result in too mild a cheese, this can be met by ripening for a longer period I the cheese intended for those districts which prefer a sharper flavoured article. OPENNESS IN CHEESE. | A considerable quantity of the experimental cheese of all breeds was found extremely open in texture, and it is a well-known fact that this fault is at present shared by a large proportion of ordinary New Zealand export cheese. An examination of the merchants’ reports from London indicates that a deficiency of acid could very rarely have been the cause, as numerous batches were found to be open and over-acid at one and the same time. In addition, as far as can be gathered from the reports, only three batches in the whole season's make were considered “sweet” or “insipid,” whereas the fault of “openness” was, in varying degrees, possessed by 50 to 75 per cent, of the total, Definite assurance can also be given that bacterial contamination of the starter or of the cnecse milk by large numbers of gas-forming organisms was not the root of the trouble, and this is confirmed by the remarks from London which show that the openness deprecated was not the typical pin-hole or honey-comb texture of a “gassy” cheese. THE PRESSING OF THE CHEESE. There remains to be discussed the question of the time of pressing of the cheese in the factory, and it is considered that this offers at least some partial explanation of the openness I found. The majority of New Zealand cheese factories rarely press their cheese for a longer period than 18 to 20 hours. The cheese is hooped at approximately 3 p.m. on the day of making, and is taken out of the hoops about 10 a.m. or 11 a.m. the following morning and trans, ferred to the curing room. Considering the fact that much, if not all, of English farmers' and Scottish cheese is pressed for 3 days, the short period of pressing adopted in New Zealand factories ap- ; pears to be totally inadequate. , Considerable improvement in the mati ter of closeness of texture would certainly be secured by the provision in every factory of duplicate sets of I presses, whereby each day’s make of cheese could be pressed for approximately two days. This provision would result in increased financial returns, not only on account of the improved closeness of texture, but also by reason of the reduction in shrinkage which this investigation proves would follow as a result of tire increased closeness. TEMPERATURE OF CURING ROOMS. Another factor probably has an important bearing upon the question of openness, namely, the temperature of the curing room. Where this is too high, the newly made cheese is dried rather severely, in the first 14 days, and this is well-known to have its effett in producing a tendency on the part of

the texture to crack and open up readily. This explanation is substantiated in the present investigation by the fact that quite a large proportion of the cheese made In September and October, and again in April, was definitely stated to be of good, close texture, and this cheese was cured during the 000 l months, the highest average temperature of which was 55.9 F. for the month of October. On the other hand, the large majority of the complaints about looseness -were made concerning the summer cheese which w-as cured at temperatures as high as 71 degrees F., for* the month of February. These observations therefore point to the advisability of extending the system of cool curing of cheese, not only on account of the. improvement to be expected in texture, but also because of the saving which would be effected in initial shrinkage. CLOSENESS OF TEXTURE VITAL. The whole of the remarks of the London committee make it very clear that the question of closeness of texture is most vital, and that deductions in value will invariably be made for faults in this direction, notwithstanding special merit in other features. For example, in connection with the Jersey batch made at the end of December, detailed criticism of each crate shows that this batch possessed clean flavour and “firm smooth body, very fat and meaty.” Notwithstanding these merits, the following comment is added by the London committee: “If this batch comprised all close textured cheese, they would qualify, in our opinion, for full market value. The only real criticism from a commercial standpoint is the open texture which is a bad fault from the retail?’-’’ standpoint, as the loose and open slits in the cheese expand when they are cut and exposed for sale.”

Such being the attitude of our London buyers to the question of openness in cheese, every effort should be made at once to eliminate this fault, and it is considered that the two remedies already proposed, viz., more prolonged periods of pressing followed by “cool curing” will do much to minimise this cause of reduced price for our export cheese. BODY AND TEXTURE.

Apart from the question of openness there remains th..t of the general character of the texture of the cheese and the firmness or otherwise of the body. An analysis of the remarks from London reveals that, although faults in this respect belonged to all breeds, there was an undoubted preponderance of criticism against the summer cheese of the lower testing breeds. Amongst these sources of complaint, that of mealiness, pastiness, and general weakness and stickiness of body appeared to predominate. One naturally turns to the question of moisture content as an. explanation of pastiness, weakness or stickiness of cheese. This doubtless is a correct explanation in those cases where the moisture content of cheese has been artificially forced beyond the limit proper to its fat and casein content, but it is considered that it cannot apply to the majority of cases in the present investigation.

In the first place, considering the Friesian cheese as an extreme example of the class containing high moisture, we observe, from tlie merchants’ reports, chat the large majority of the Friesian cheese made in September was classed as “good” in texture, and that a fair proportion of it commanded the highest price for “finest” grade New Zealand cheese. In fact, batch D, manufactured early in September was specifically described as “very good and suitable for the best trade.” Similar remarks, accompanied by highest valuation, were applied here and there to individual crates throughout this month.

The analysis of these samples of cheese at fw'o days old may prove interesting. Batch D, considered “very good and suitable for the best trade” was made on September 6, 7 and 8 from Friesian milk with an average fat test of 3.56 per cent., and yielded the following analysis (average of three samples! :—Moisture, 36.12 per cent; fat, 31.45 per cent; proteins, 23.19 per cent.

Similar remarks were made concerning crates C, 5 and 6, manufactured on Septernbei 4 and 5, 1926, from Friesian milk of an average fat test of 3.86 per cent. The analysis of these two crates (two samples) was:—Moisture, 37.40 per cent; fat, 32.58 per cent; proteins, 23.93 per cent.

Finally we have crates Y 135 to 140. manufactured from October 14 to Octo ber 17, 1926, from Friesian milk of average fat test, 3.32 per cent. The average analysis of this batch w-as, for four samples:—Moisture, 39.5? per cent; fat, 30.04 per cent; proteins, 24.71 per cent. These crates were specifically described as “well-made cheese” and were given the highest valuation for first grade cheese.

The analysis of lot D, with a moisture content of’ 36.12 per cent., might lead us to suppose that this moderate figure was the reason for the satisfactory quality in body and texture, but the same cannot be said of the next two batches quoted, in which the moisture content rises as high as 39.59 per cent, without the slightest detrimental influence upon body and texture. Similarly in the case of the Ayrshire cheese, crates N 72 and 73 were classed as “good” in texture. These were manufactured on September 20 and 21 from milk with an average fat content of 3.88 per cent., and gave the following analysis (2 samples):—Moisture, 38.93 per cent; fat, 32.08 per cent; proteins, 24.01 per cent. As an example of Jersey cheese of good texture, manufactured in the same portion of the season, we may take batch U, made on October 1,2 and 3 from milk containing 4.28 per cent, of butterfat. Its analysis was (3 samples) : —Moisture, 35.24 per cent; fat, 35.13 per cent; proteins, 22.35 per cent. These figures are a sufficient indication that moisture content does not necessarily play a part in the determination of body and texture, and that figures ranging from 35 to over 39 per cent, can be found in first class cheese, provided that such cheese has been properly made from whole milk of the appropriate fat test. As a further proof that there is no necessary connection between the physical state of the cheese and its moisture content, we may quote the Friesian batches S, made in November, and X, made in February, both of winch were described as “dry and mealy; in London. The details concerning tnesc batches were as follows: Batch S, made from November 25 to November 26, 1926; average fat test ol milk, 3.41 per cent. Analysis:—Moisture, 37.70 per cent; fat, 31.77 per cent; proteins, 24.70 per cent. Batch X, made from January 29 to February 4, 19’27; average fat test Of milk, 3.55 per cent. Analysis:—Moisture, 36.02 per cent; fat, 32.84 per cent; proteins, 25.01 per cent.

By comparing these analyses with that of batch D, already mentioned, in which a moisture of 36.12 per cent, and a faf of 31.45 per cent, gave a perfectly satisfactory cheese, we must come to’ the conclusion that a high moisture content does not, of itself, necessarily produce a weak, pasty, sticky body, nor must a low moisture content necessarily involve a dry, mealy cheese or viceversa. EXCESS ACID. In seeking an explanation of harshness and mealiness of texture, we cannot ignore the fact that the low-testing varieties of cheese were the chief offenders in this respect, and that the fault appeared to predominate during the summer months when the moisture content of the cheese was high. Another straw blowing in the direction we seek is the fact that, coincident with the remarks concerning the faults of body and texture, appear very frequent comments upon sour and acidy flavours. It therefore appears that the development of excess acid has been the root cause of these faults in the physical quality of the cheese. Colour is lent to this explanation by the fact that raw milk would necessarily contain a greater population of acid-forming micro-organisms during the warm summer months, thus providing an unknown quantity capable of subsequent eelfmagnification to an almost unlimited extent. Furthermore, the high moisture content of the low-testing cheese would provide an ideal substratum in which the development of acid-forming microorganisms would be stimulated above the degrees for which provision is usually made in manufacture. The beginning of this tendency to develop overacid was already evident in the New Zealand grader’s comments of “slightly excess acid” which appeared here and there during the months of December and January. As a specific case we may quote the Friesian batch E, manufactured during the latter portion of December, 1926. This was classed as “slightly over acid” in New Zealand, and, upon arrival in England, was found to be mealy and sour and quite unsuitable.

Other examples could be multiplied to support the contention that the mealiness of the low testing cheese was the result of a gradual development of excess acid favoured by the high moisture content, and this is borne out by the fact that this fault was not often found in the Jersey cheese. Present New Zealand cheese factory methods have gradually evolved themselves by continued work upon milk of ever increasing fat content, and thus it appears feasible that the proportion of starter, and the general methods of handling in the factory were more suited to the Jersey cheese than to either of the others' It is suggested that a lower proportion of starter and a lower development of acid during the various stages of manufacture of the cheese from low-testing milk would do much to ensure the out-turn in England of a cheese that was not spoilt bv the development of excess acid after it had left the shelves. In any case, the success secured by certain batches of the low-testing cheese during September and October proves conclusively that low-testing milk can be made into cheese of good l»dy and texture; and furthermore, that the faults found with the low-testing cheese during the summer months were due to errors of judgment in manufacture and not to any inherent disability possessed by such milks- for cheesemaking. COLOUR OF CHEESE. The colour of so-called “white” cheese, is evidently not a matter of vital importance in comparison with the more serious considerations of flavour, body and texture, and apparently fat content. Nevertheless, there is a slight tendency to favour a genuinely white cheese rather than a yellow one, and comments were made with extreme frequency that the Jersey cheese was “rather too coloury for white cheese.” Reference may here be made to batch 0 245 to 25’2 of Jersey cheese manufactured early in November. This was the first shipment of cheese considered (“ideal.” The full comment is important:—“These cheese are ideal in quality and flavour for the Home market, but for white cheese they show rather more colour (representing a deep cream (shade) than some parts of the country hike. They are suitable for London and South West England, but Manchester land Birmingham prefer a really white cheese.” From other remarks it may be inferred that, 'whereas certain districts distinctly prefer a white cheese, others tolerate a yellow one without actually preferring ’it. Quite a number of Friesian and Ayrshire shipments were labelled with i the remark “Colour distinctly white as preferred in certain districts,” whereas, in the case of the yellow Jersey cheese, remarks were made such as: “These cheese are a little coloury foi’ white cheese, but it is quite suitable for average trade,” or again “Colour shows a slight yellowish tinge but this is in no way deterimental to the sale.” Thus although the yellowish type of ’’white” cheese is apparently tolerated, the truly white variety is preferred, and this is rendered quite clear by a definite statement from the London committee that “White cheese is preferred to the yellowish tinge, which so often accompanies the product of Jersey milk.” In this respect, therefore, the low testing Friesian and Ayrshire milks yield a cheese which conforms to the state'! preferences of the trade for which we eater. REQUIREMENTS OF TRADE FOR FAT IN CHEESE. It was expressly stated again and again by the London committee that cheese must give the impression of containing a fair proportion of fat in order to command full market price. Mr. Heyes. of Messrs. Henry A. Lane and Co., has stated, in continuation of remarks already quoted:—“The majority of English consumers prefer a mild cheese, but it must be fatty and buttery to be ideal.” And again we have: —“Fat is essential. The public do not like lean dry cheese —it must be fat and buttery. ‘Buttery’ is the popular description for fat cheese.” As an example of a type of cheese considered ideal, we may again quote remarks concerning batch O of Jersey cheese, manufactured from November 6 to November I’2, .19’27, from milk averaging 4.48 per cent, of butterfat.- This batch was expressly described as ideal in quality, flavour, and fat content for the Home market. The average analysis from seven samples taken at two days’ old was:—Moisture, 35.13 per cent; fat, 35.43 per cent.; proteins, 22.85 per cent.: fat in the water, free substance, 54.62 per cent. This was the first hatch of cheese expressly described as “ideal” in fat content, and, as it came fairly early in,tho season from the Jersey milk, one might

therefore be led to suppose that the above expressions for fat eontc t represent the absolute minimum acceptable to our market. Other remarks and analyses, however, show that this is not the case. In the first place, it is quite evident that those batches of Friesian and Ayrshire cheese which fetched “finest grade” valuation during September and October must have been at least satisfactory in regard to their fat content, even if specific comment was not made to the effect that they were very good in this respect. Moreover, it will not be forgotten that the chees. lowest in fat content, namely the Friesian, was valued, in the considered opinion of the London committee, at a higher average price than the relatively richer Jersey cheese during the spring portion of the season. As a typical example of such low testing cheese, we may again mention Friesian batch D manufactured on September 6, 7 and 8 from milk containing an average of 3.56 per cent of butterfat. From the analysis of this batch alreadv quoted, we may observe that this batch contained 49.2 per cent, of fat in its water-free substance, and yet was apparently satisfactory in fat content, in that it commanded the full price for “finest” grade New Zealand cheese, and was described as “very good and suitable for the best trade.” In discussing the relationship between the fat contents of the experimental cheese and the New Zealand legal limit of 50 per cent. o*" fat in the water-free substance of cheese, the facts of this investigation have already been considered to prove that this minimum limit of 50 per cent, is quite unnecessarily high, and that, not only would all the requirements of our market in regard to fat be adequately met by our adoption of the Canadian standard minimum of 45 per cent., but also that no adequate premium in price can be commanded by cheese which appreciably exceeds our already generous standard. In addition to the striking example quoted above, this contention can bo still further substantiated by some of the considered comments of the London committee in regard to the fat content of the experimental cheese. For example, Friesian batch L examined in London on May 5, 1927, contained a number of crates which were expressly commented upon, as showing a desirable degree of fattiness, and the general remark was made that “the silky, fat body, and close texture of crates 435438 represent a desirable type of cheese.” These particular cheese were made betweent January 2 and 5, 1927 from Friesian milk averaging 3.64 per cent, of butterfat, - and yielded the following average analysis from three samples:—Moisture, 36.59 per cent.; fat, 32.32 per cent.; proteins, 24.31 per cent.; fat in watter-free substance, 50.97 per cent.

These cheese were not 1 per cent above the New Zealand minimum fat requirements, vzere made from milk whi:h was below the average fat test of the majority of New Zealand cheese factories, and yet commanded the full price for “finest grade” New Zealand cheese, and were expressly described as noticeably fat.

Similar examples may be found from the Ayrshire cheese to show that there is no need to rise into the regions of over 54 per cent, of fat in the waterfree substance in order to produce a cheese eminently satisfactory in regard to its fat content. For instance, Ayrshire batch K manufacture 1 from October 30 to November 5, 1926, was expressly described as “clean and shows good fat.” The average fat test of the milk between these dates was 3.77 per cent, and the analysis of the cheese from seven daily samples was as folows:— Moisture, 38.83 per cent.; fat, 30.95 per cent.; proteins, 23.99 per cent.; fat in the water-free substance, 50.59 per cent. Concerning Ayrshire batch P manufactured between January 8 and 24, 1927'; the comment was made that “Smooth body and fairly good fat partially offset the fault's of a somewhat brittle texture.” This cheese was made from milk averaging 3.93 per cent, of butterfat, and seven samples yielded the following analysis:— Moisture, 36.76 per cent.; fat, 33.19 per cent.; proteins, 23.55 per cent.; fat in the water-free substance, 52.48 per cent. It must be evident that, if cheese averaging 50.59 pc- cent, of fat in the dry matter can b. said to “show good fat,” while another with 52.48 per cent, shows “fairly good fat,” some feature other than the actual fat content'contributes towards producing that smoothness of texture which is taken as a criterion of fattiness, and attention is drawn to the 2 per cent, difference in moisture content of these two batches, together with the comment of brittledess (in texture made concerning the batch of lower moisture content, as a very likely explanation of what this feature really is-

These examples will serve to prove that the desirable qualities of body and texture which give the impression of a. fatty cheese are secured by a certain relationship between fat and moisture, and that an appropriate percentage of moisture will do much to atone for the absence of quite an appreciable proportion of fat. In this respect, the results of this investigation are quite in accord with the findings of authorities. The very remarks made by the London committee —“the public do not like lean dry cheese”—is a proof that the question of moisture content is inseparably connected with popular and expert judgment concerning the fattiness or otherwise of a sample of cheese.

VARIATIONS IN FAT CONTENT WITH ADVANCE CT SEASON. In view’ of the fact that various batches of Friesian and Ayrshire cheese were considered very good in respect to fat content when containing percentages of fat in the water-free substance ranging from under 50 per cent, to about 52 per cent., it will be interesting to note the remarks given upon the cheese made from these same milks during the end of the season, when fat tests were appreciably higher, and to the Jersey cheese made from milk which never contained less than 4 per cent, of butterfat. In the first nlace, the general tenor of the remarks concerning the Jersey cheese early in the season, indicated that its fat content was, at that stage, quite sufficiently high, and that more would have been, if anything, undesirable. For example, batch L, manufactured in the first few days of November was said to contain “plenty of fat,” its actual average content being 54.1 per cent, of the water-free substance; likewise batch U (November) with 54.2 per cent, was said to “show good fat/’ while batch D, manufactured in the first half of December and pos'esslng 55.0 per cent, of fat in the dry matter actually showed free fst in the cheese when examined in London.

There was, of course, plenty of toleration exhibited towards the occurrences of fat in cheese, and the large mapority of the summer Jersey cheese, classed generally as “very rich In fat. appeared

to be well received. From about January 1927 onwards, the Jersey cheese fluctuated between 54 and 58 per cent, of fat in the water-free substance, and averaged very close to 56 per cent, during this period. Such a figure, however, need not be regarded as a standard, as other remarks prote conclusively that tho fai> percentages on the dry matter need not rise to such a high value in order to excite special comment upon the good fatty character of the cheese. For examples, wc may take the lowest testing cheese (Friesian) manufactured during April, 1927. Three batches out of the four were especially commented upon in regard to their fattiness, while no special remark was made concerning the other. It is therefore evident that, although tho London market does not actually find fault with cheese possessing up to about 56 per cent, of fat in the dry matter, it can be satisfied by other cheese showing from 49 to 51 per cent., and is exceedingly w'ell pleased with cheese possessing from 52 Io 53 per cent, of fat in its water-free substance. From the above particulars of the late autumn Friesian cheese, it will be observed that a fat test of about 4 per cent, in milk is likely to produce a cheese having quite as much fat as the Home trade requires. This figure of about 4 per cent, is the approximate average fat test of many New Zealand cheese factories. Consequently, in the autumn months, when the fat tests are much above 4 per cent, there is a likelihood of our exporting to England a considerable quantity of eheesc which far exceeds the requirements of our market in regard to fat content. Remarks and valuations are not lacking in connection with the Jersey cheese made in the autumn months during the present investigation to prove that, not only does this excess proportion of fat carry no appreciable premium in price, but also that it may be considered a fault and thus be a reason for deductions. For example, Jersey batches Y and B were described by the London graders as “greasy and showing butterfat sacs.’ f Tho London committee of merchants reported: “Flavour not quite clean, close texture, very fat. Globules of fat are noticeable. Passable quality but below the standard required.” Shipments E and H immediately following were classed as “weak, loose and undesirable,” while the final batch of the season L was considered to possess “unclean flavour, close texture but moist, greasy body, lacking cohesion” and was classed as “undesirable quality.” The analytical figures relating to batches B and L make it quite clear that percentages of fat over 56 per cent, in the water-free substance are not really satisfactory to our buyers. Hence the sending of such cheese to England is an economic waste, not merely because no premium in price is secured for them, but also because they may actually be made the subject of deductions for what we in New Zealand apparently consider to be their supreme virtue. N.Z. LOSING HUGE SUMS. Since many New Zealand cheese factories show a seasonal average test of 4 per cent, of butterfat, and considerably exceed that figure during the autumn mouths, it is at once demonstrated that the New Zealand dairy industry is annually losing huge sums of money by exporting, in overfat cheese, enormous quantities of butterfat for which no financial return is ensured. To obviate these losses, and to secure for the dairy farmer proper remuneration for every pouiid of butterfat which he produces, a return to more reasonable butterfat tests in our cheesemaking milk is imperative. Since it will probably damage the reputation of our product if we attempt to lower the present richness by the process of partskiinming, the only course left open is the more wide-spread adoption of the lower testing breeds such as the Friesian and Ayrshire in cheesemaking areas. (To be concluded to-morrow.)