PARIS FASHIONS

Sun (Christchurch), Volume I, Issue 85, 16 May 1914, Page 6

PARIS FASHIONS

EXAGGERATION AND REACTION Men have often said, and still say, that women j have no sense of humour (says "The Times" fashion [correspondent); and we have often been so angry JAvith them for having said it, thereby proving at any rate that humour is not our strong point. . Indeed, Ave are ahvays doing things that -■■ seem to bear witness against our very selves, and it is hard to convince the obstinate opposite sex that our humour is merely under a cloud at such moments, not non-existent. All this is to lead up to the protestations that have been made by a certain number of: Avomen in Parfs against modern fashions. Petitions have been signed and sent in to the Rue de la Paix dressmakers, sermons have been preached, and everywhere there is a raising of the hands in horror at the exaggerations into .which jAvomen are -allowing themselves to be led. In homely j phrase, we are locking the stable door after the horse : has been stolen. All, or most, of these fashionable horrors are dead; for no fashion is so dead as the one jof yesterday. The skirt that is slit too high, the bodice that is cut too loav, the excessi\ T e tightness of draperies near the ankles are all fashions of last month; and this 'month, and for several months to come, we shall see modified expressions of all these things Avith a gradual return to floAving draperies. It is, in fact, noticeable in all places Avhere welliressed women are to be seen that "line" is once more to be a thing of importance in ,the scheme of women's clothes. We see long tunics, plisse skirts, folds of classic grace and less of the A-ery buDched-up paniers, the skirt that is slit to show a stockinged leg, and the bodice that is little more than a AA r aistbelt. A vendense in one of the first houses in Paris told me (hat never, even in the height of their favoixr, have these things been chosen by Avomen of really good sense and standing. Foolish young Avomen and still more foolish older ones, of all nationalities, Jiave insisted on having them; and she told me of one woman who considered two. folds of mousseline de so\e as too thick for a bodice! Such cases are outtvard expressions of inward folly, and every age has produced them; but it is a pity to take them too seriously. Nothing kills quicker than ridicule, and it is the ridicule pf. the.caricaturist rather than the admonitipns of. the .-preachers which are likely to bring both Ayomen and their dressmakers back to the paths of" beauty, and .propriety^.,. .. The Importance of Material. -•■ - • <■ In all the neAv dresses the importance of material seems paramount. There wtfs a time when cut mattered most; but it'is not so noAV. 'The right material insures successful draperies, and 'without 1 Successful draperies the modern dress does not exist. Fdr a fnilor-made, finely Avoven cloth or softly falling silk is absolutely necessary. Nothing thick or'stiff is possible- 'tlnis it is,that,the finest serge, the softest moire l ,, and the most xmly can be -used. •• : '-'"■ <- «"-•*• "''-''" •''■'■* In serge I have seen seA'eral skirts "finely ""plisse with a double flounced tunic dipping behind; a bolero with a waistcoat of bright embroidery over a blouse *of embroidered chiffon. On a tall woman'this ! model is extremely graceful., For- a woman with fewer inches I saw a model in black taffetas moire" slightly draped and slit near the feet over an-uhderskirt of threefold mousseline, the bodice had mousseline basques/- "and round the Avaist Avas a (folded sash of Very'soft-tbned tartan Avith long ends at the side. A turhed-bal'k collar of tartan stood out against a creamy net iioliu, which was crossed over and tucked aAvay under the loose folds of the bodice; The sleeves Avere short, with turned back tartan cuffs and little under sfeeA v es of net. Anything more modest and becoming than these two models it is impossible to imagine, and "'there'' are hundreds more as desirable if one goes to the right places to find them. Rep, real 'old-fashioned rep, is being nsed for cloaks, but not for dresses; flowered silks and erepons are much used for sun'imer dresses, and they are particularly 'suited'to uouiired tunics or dresses which are made up entirely of ilouiirings, a style that suits-tall, slim women A-ery-well indeed-. A great deal of mousseline de soie is being used for dinner gowns; and Avhen used alone Avith only a buiich"-'of flowers as a trimming it is the essence of all that is young and dainty. For the dignity Avhich comes 'Avith. years it is allied to beaded tunics or brocade, but always it is draped in flowing Greek lines or looped up in the fashion, of Botticelli draperies. The great thing to remember when choosing-materials is that they'must' 1 lie soft and of the kind that fall into graceful"'-'-lines naturally. .-.-:■■ - ■ ; ! • Colour. ■....,, The dressmakers seem determined to get us out" of black; but so far. the FrenchAvoman has not ventured further than navy blue, dark brown, and plaids of dark shades. Probably Avhen this terrible March weather is a thing' of the past Ave shall see some brighter shades unless, as has happened before, Ave fall back on black or Avhite or the tAvo together. The Coricours Hippique, which opens next week, Avill reA T eal the French opinion on this question, for it is there that the A'ery neAvest tailor-mades always appear. An authority oh such matters tells me that the real FrenchAvoman Avill not choose bright shades for her tailor-mades; but the jeune fille may possibly yield to gaiety in cloth even as she did in her Avoollen jerseys Inst summer. For race gowns in taffetas and other silken materials it is a different matter. Then Ave shall see colour -in plenty when the sun shines; but if there is one thing the real FrenchAvoman dislikes it is to be out on a wet day in a light dress.