Kitchencraft

Southland Times, Issue 23674, 24 November 1938, Page 15

Kitchencraft

BATTERS ARE BASES FOR MUCH COOKERY By SARAH Very early in the history of the world grains and other substances less nutritious were ground between stones, mixed with water and baked upon hot stones or before a fire. The resulting product was usually heavy, sodden, and, to the modem way of thinking, not fit to eat. Quite by accident, however, a piece of dough was left uncooked; natural fermentation took place and the result was a light, porous food, easily penetrated by digestive juices, and much superior to all former doughs. As time went other and less uncertain methods of lightening doughs were evolved. A batter is made from meal or flour mixed with a liquid to such a consistency that it may be beaten and poured from a jug in a continuous stream. Then there is a drop batter, thicker in consistency, and, at the same time, usually richer in ingredients. Then comes a soft dough, which is too thick to beat, and so is made smooth by tossing and cutting, by kneading with the hands, or by beating with a rolling pin. CLASSIFIED BATTERS Batters and doughs are thus classified according to consistency. A “pour bat--ter” consists of one and a-half parts of meal to one part of liquid. Under this heading fall such foods as Yorkshire pudding, fritters, popovers, pikelets and waffles. ■ A “drop” batter consists of two parts of meal to one part of liquid, and usually has the addition of eggs, sugar, butter and fruit; for instance gems and butter cakes. ' < , Soft doughs consist of three parts, of meal to one part of liquid (scones, short cake, dumplings, small cakes), while

■ N HMBBaH ■)!■ B ■■■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ stiff doughs, such as biscuits, doughnuts and pastry, have four parts of meal to one of liquid. These proportions are naturally subjected to many modifications owing to combination with other ingredients. Allowance must also be made for the kind of liquid and the different thickening properties in the different grades of flour or meal. The simplest batter made to any great extent is the one used in the preparation of Yorkshire pudding. The very word brings a shudder.* To the table comes a heavy, doughy-looking mass unjustly termed Yorkshire pudding. How many realize what a Yorkshire pudding should look like? A Yorkshire pudding should from the outside resemble a loaf of bread. Its crust should be crisp and tender and golden brown in colour, but—and here 'is where it differs from a loaf of bread —it should be hollow and dry inside! YORKSHIRE PUDDING In order to arrive .at such a finished product, it is necessary to trace the steps during preparation and cooking. Sift the flour and salt into a basin, and make a hole in the centre of those ingredients. Beat the eggs slightly, add the milk, and pour the liquid-into the hole. With a wooden spoon stir in everwidening circles till the batter is perfectly smooth. Beating does not improve a batter. It has been proved by experiment that a batter prepared and allowed to stand for an hour or several hours before cooking does not give better or less satisfactory results than a batter which is prepared and cooked immediately. Hence if the housewife finds it is more convenient to make her Yorkshire pudding several hours before it is required, she may do so without any qualms. The cooking of a Yorkshire pudding is simple. The required amount of dripping is placed in a-pan which is in turn placed in a hot oven. When the fat has melted and is hot, pour in the batter and place in a hot oven at 450 deg. Fahrenheit. This high temperature is retained for 10 to 15 minutes, and during this time the water in the batter changes to steam, the mixture rises, the protein coagulates and so encloses the air, and the outside crust is formed. The temperature is then lowered to 350 deg. Fahrenheit so that the outside crust does not burn, and the interior is allowed to dry out. This period takes

about 40 minutes, so a Yorkshire pudding requires one hour’s cooking. Behold then a Yorkshire pudding good to look at, good to eat, and easy to digest. PIKELETS Pikelets are to many people quite difficult to make. The mixture is a simple one and should be prepared like all batters. The flour, baking powder and salt are sifted into a bowl, and a hole made [in the centre of these ingredients. The sugar is beaten.with the eggs and the milk added. The liquid is then poured into the hole, and the in--gredients combined into a smooth batter by stirring in ever-widening circles. Beware not to over-mix. / tough pike - let results from an over-beaten batter. . To get the best results the girdle should be heated very slowly, and when at the right temperature (the only way to find this out is to try a little of the mixture) a very light grease should be rubbed over the surface. Too much grease will spoil the even colour and surface of the pikelet. Use only enough to prevent sticking. Drop the mixture on (he girdle from the tip of a dessertspoon, or, if you prefer oval pikelets, from the side of the spoon. As soon as the bubbles begin to rise to the top of the uncooked side of the pikelet, turn with a spatula and, allow this side to cook. The heat of the girdle should be such that during the browning of the first side the pikelet should be cooked halfway through, and during the browning of the second side the other half should be cooked. A doughy line in the centre of a pikelet indicates a girdle which has been too hot; the outside has browned before the inside has had time to cook. Place on a cake cooler, and, when cold, butter and serve with or without jam. Pikelets are also delicious when served with whipped or Devonshire cream and strawberry jam. If they are required as a sweet, roll in the shape of a lily when hot. Allow to cool, fill with cream, and decorate with jam.