The Garden.
NOTES FOR JULY.
(Bt “Murihiku.”)
Vegetable Garden. —This is usually rather a stormy month in Southland, and it will not therefore be found possible or advisable to do much outside, though every possible chance should of course be utilised, of both time and weather. To begin with, a start may be made to force seakale for early use; choose strong roots, and cover over with a deep box or barrel, placing some fresh stable manure around and over each to accelerate growth. The barrels should of course bave the top removable. Rhubarb may be treated in the same way, or by placing roots packed close together in a corner of the greenhouse, and covering lightly with fine soil. The old rhubarb beds should be dug over, and if not already done, a layer of manure placed oyer each root ; this, besides protecting the crowns, helps to give them a good start when growth begins. When the ground is dry and friable, a few early potatoes, Ashleaf or White Elephants, may be planted, and also small sowings of early peas and broad beans. To escape hard frosts which may occur during the month, it will be advisable to defer sowing small seeds till about the end of the month, when the weather may be expected to have moderated sufficiently to make it safe for small sowings of onions, leeks, radish, lettuce, cabbage and cauliflower, in addition to those above named. Flower Garden, —Work in this department this month is not of a very pressing nature, the chief object being to keep all parts of the garden in as orderly a state as possible—the lawns, walks, etc., clear of fallen leaves and other rubbish, and the borders free from decayed vegetation. Flower roots may now be divided and replanted, and any bulbs left from last month should be got into the ground without delay. Flowering and ornamental trees and shrubs, of all kinds, such as roses, rhododendrons, laurestinus, hollies, etc., may be planted, and any required alteration made in formation of grounds or garden. This is also a very suitable time to lay out new gardens, shrubberies and hedges. For these purposes our local nurserymen can now supply a variety of suitable trees, chief and best of the latter being for ornamental purposes the well-known hollies English and variegated — Berberis, Darwini, Laurels, Pittosporums, or Native Maples, and Privet; while for shelter the several species of Cupresses, Pines and Spruces, are best adapted. Fruit Garden. —Take advantage of dry weather to transplant fruit trees and bushes, and to proceed with the pruning. This latter operation is frequently overdone by attempting to bring bushes that have been neglected at once into the operator’s favourite shape. It will be found safer practice to prune moderately, leaving the centre of the tree rather open, and removing suckers from the roots and stem. Prune and tie raspberry canes, leaving say, three to each stool. Attend to the dressing of old strawberry beds, and made new plantations where required. When planting fruit trees a good criterion as to the depth if to notice previous nursery landmarks, and insert to same depth. Deeply-planted trees never succeed, and are more liable to canker than those with roots just under the surface. Quicks for hedgerows should be planted about four to six inches apart, and hedges of two or three years standing will make closer and stronger growth if shortened back half their length or more.
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Bibliographic details
Southern Cross, Volume 11, Issue 16, 18 July 1903, Page 2
Word Count
577The Garden. Southern Cross, Volume 11, Issue 16, 18 July 1903, Page 2
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