The Traveller.

Southern Cross, Volume 9, Issue 51, 8 March 1902, Page 12

The Traveller.

FROM M.Z. TO EWeiAWD. Mr T. Fleming, of this town, who recently returned from a trip to the Old Country, was entertained at a social in Raeside’s Caledonian Rooms on Friday evening, February 28th. There were about fifty gentlemen present, and Mr J. Y 7". Matchell presided. In the course of the proceedings Mr Fleming _ gave an interesting account of his experiences, the series of splendid photographs exhibited adding greatly to the effect, those dealing with American scenery being specially admired. We have arranged to publish Mr Fleming’s sketch in full. The following is the first instalment

I sailed from Sydney harbour by the R.M.S.S. “ Aorangi” on the last night of last century at 7 p.m., bound for old Scotia, via Honolulu, \ ancouver, 33.0., thence by the O.P.Rrailway across the continent of America to Hew York.

The night was very warm and sultry, the thermometer in my cabin being 100. Never shall I forget the magnificientsight of the electrified Heavens ; at times it was almost as bright as daylight. Before passing on I may say that Sydney was all excitement over the great Commonwealth celebrations that were to begin with the New Year and new century, and both officers and passengers felt rather disappointed at having to sail on the eve of all the splendour. The chief engineer had great difficulty m securing enough firemen to steam out of the harbour. On getting time to look round the ship I found there wgfg only two saloon on hoard and some 20 second saloon, and so we had ample room to move about. We arrived off Brisbane on 2nd Jan., and took the pilot on boaid about noon, after which we lay at anchor all night. The lighters came alongside with coal, also a steam launch, which lay astern all night to be in readiness to take passengers up the river, some 15 miles, to Brisbane in the morning. The heat was almost unbearable, and we haa no use for blankets. Next morning we started with the steam launch for Brisbane at 7.45 a.m. and arrived at 11 a.m., pretty good work for a steam launch to do 15 miles in 3£ hours under a broiling sun with temp. 120. Brisbane is a clean, tidy-looking city, but the heat being so great we were glad to keep in the shade of the hotel. We had only a very short time to wait, having taken so long on the way up, and had to embark on the launch again for ship at 3 p.m. and managed ■with a struggle to get on hoard at 7 p.m. We weighed anchor at two in the morning, and sailed from the Hawaiian Islands. The heat became more intense as we neared the equator. On the 7th Jany. we sighted some small Islands off New Caledonia in the distance. On Thursday, the 10th Jany. lat., 3« 495. 176„ 5/ east, and distant from Honolulu 2152 knots, the following notice was posted in saloon :—ln consequence of crossing the 180th meridian, to-morrow will again be Thursday, 10th January. On the 16th Jany. we sighted Honolulu and got alongside the wharf at 2 p.m. The Islands looked very pretty in the bright sunlight as we approached the harbour. Here perpetual summer prevails, and all is very tropical iu appearance and reminded me much of Colombo, Ceylon. The population is very mixed, consisting of Hawaiians, Japs, Chinese, Americans and others. The late Hawaiian Queen’s residence is a very pretty spot, and is now turned into offices for the U.S. Government, who quite recently annexed the whole of the Islands. Honolulu, the Pacific paradise and land of perpetual bloom, is the chief city of the Hawaiian greup, and is the port of landing for persons destined for the Islands. It is also the port of call for the Canadian Australian steamships, and where the first insight is given of the dreamy native life of the Pacific. Here the fragrance of flowers un-

ceasingiy fills the air. The wealth of tropical vegetation, the abundance of fruit, the waving palms, the wide acres of sugar cane, the happy natives, and the sea breaking in long rolling waves over the coral reefs, backed by the volcanic hills —all these make up a picture that can never fade from memory. The attractions of Hawaii are almost illimitable. Pleasure steamers make regular trips to the various points of interest on the different islands which constitute this WAnderland of the Pacific. Honolulu itself is one of the world’s beauty spots, continually wreathed with the profuse luxuriance and bloom of tropical vegetation, and near it are many lovely resorts to which is lent the additional charm of historical association. Within a short is Nuuanu Pali, an historic precipice, over which the Oahuns were driven in thousands by King Kamehameba the Conqueror ; the summit of Mount Tantalus, the highest point near the the city; Punch Bowl Hill, WAikiki Beach, a delightful bathing place and summer resort, and many other lovely spots. One could willingly linger here indefinitely. To give you an idea of the equability of the climate, the following are the highest and lowest readings of the thermometer for twelve months :

Tbe highest temperature recorded in the six years 90-95 was 90deg., and the lowest 54deg.—an average of 74 - 43 deg. We sailed next morning, 17th Jan., and stood off for Victoria, 8.0. distant 2500 miles. Shortly after leaving Honolulu we passed a full-rigged ship under reefed topsails, which was a very pretty sight and quite a rare thing to meet with in those latitudes of the Pacific. The temperature now began to fall rapidly as we drew near B,C. We sighted Cape Plattery on Jan. 24th about 10 a.m., took the pilot on boardat 4.30 p.m., and then we received the first sad news of our late Queen’s death, which cast quite a gloom over the ship. Running up the Gulf of Georgia afforded a most beautiful sight, with the magnificent Douglas firs and stately cedars on the B.C.°side, and away in the distance the hills of Washington could be clearly seen, also covered with splendid forest.

At Victoria, 8.C.. I decided to break my journey for a week or two, so took my luggage ashore and camped at the Dominion Hotel on the 24th Jan. 1901.

Victoria has a population of 25,000, and is the capital of 8.C., charmingly situated at the southern extremity of Vancouver Island, overlooking the straits of Puca to the Pacific, and beyond the Gulf of Georgia, the mainland, Across the strait are the beautiful Olympic Mountains, and far away at the east the white cone of Mt. Baker is conspicuous. The climate is that of the south of England, and the town is peculiarly English in all its characteristics. Besides the magnificent Government buildings, which rank amongst the handsomest in America, the city has many fine public and private structures among them a large and well appointed opera house. Beacon Hill Park affords a fine view of the waters and mountains on every side. The city has an extensive trade, and many large commercial houses which do a very large outfitting trade with miners. A railway extends 70 miles IST.E. to the great coal mines at Hanaimo. Steam-boats afford connection with Vancouver daily, and with Puget Sound ports daily, except Sundays,' and steamers depart about every five days for San Francisco, connecting there for Southern California, Mexico and South American west coast ports. Steamers from and to Vancouver for Japan, China, Hawiian Islands and Australian ports stop at Victoria for passengers, and there are regular sailings for Alaskan points both for tourists visiting the wonderful fiords of the north coast, and those intending to explore the great gold belt of the

Yukon. Esquimalt Harbour, two miles from Victoria by electric car, is the British naval station and rendezvous on the Horth Pacific, with naval storehouses, workshops, graving docks etc. H.M.S. Warspite was in the dock at date of my visit, 30th January, 1901. A number of men-of-war are to be found there at all times, and immense fortifications are constructed. After a stay of ten days in Victoria, 1 took passage by the s.s. Charmer, and crossed over to Vancouver on the mainland, which takes about six hours. We got alongside the wharf at 8 a.m., and berthed close to the Aorangi. After greetings with Capt. Hay, and the rest of the officers, whom I was very pleased to meet again, I camped at the Hotel Metropole, a very comfortable house. After having breakfast, I took a walk round the city, and soon found that here, too, there were plenty of Scotchmen. Vancouver has a population of over 25,000, and is the Pacific terminus of the C.P. Railway. Until 1886 the site of Vancouver was covered with a dense forest. Prom May to July of that year its growth was most rapid, but in July a fire spreading from the surrounding forest swept away every house but one in the place, and, with this exception, every building now seen has been built since that time. The city fronts on Barrard Inlet, and extends across a strip of land to English Bay, along the shore of which it is now reaching out. The situation is most perfect as regards picfuresqueness, natural drainage, harbour facilities and commercial advantages. ‘ Apart from the mineral wealth of Vancouver Island, its climate, with every variation possible, becomes most attractive. Its seashore climate is milder than many parts of England, with less rain and less seasonal variations.’ (To be Continued.)

July Aug. Sept. Oct. Nov. Dec 83 86 85 82 82 79 68 63 ' 68 67 66 62