The West Coast in the Sixties.

Southern Cross, Volume 8, Issue 22, 1 September 1900, Page 6

The West Coast in the Sixties.

By an Old Identity.

[Rights Reserved.]

Writing of Okarito as I knew it in the mid-sixties, the retina of memory brings me again face to face with Robert McCracken and Thomas McCurdy, the well - known storekeepers of that locality. Of the miscellaneous assemblage of humanity gathered there, none attracted as much attention as these two worthies.

Rab and Tom (the names they were familiarly known by) were natives of Caithness, in Scotland, They had been schoolmates and playmates in boyhood, co-workers in social reform movements in manhood, shipmates to Otago in the early sixties, house-mates in Dunedin, and in the autumn of life became co-partners in a venture to capture the mercantile trade of the southern portion of the West Coast, and, as they fondly thought, to realise a fortune. Both were unmarried, and never drank except when thirsty, and then only pure water. Although close companions all their lifetime, no two men could be more dissimilar in appearance and temperament than these two old cronies, and none passed them without turning to have a second look at their anomalistic habiliments for a mining community, and Bab’s air of ecclesiastic respectability. Both held positions of trust in Mercantile houses in Dunedin, and were esteemed by those acquainted with them. It might be thought that two level-headed men who had arrived at the mature age of three score years would be co'ntent to settle down where they were in receipt of a comfortable income, engaged in social duties congenial to their tastes, and who were living amidst pleasant surroundings and in the society of warm friends. But the West Coast fever was then at its highest reading, and like hundreds of others holding permanent positions, a feeling of discontent seized upon them, and abandoning the substance for the shadow, they staked the savings of a lifetime in an undertaking that was risky even for those fully acquainted with the evanescent prosperity of alluvial diggings, and who were accustomed to make provision for the frequent' shifting of miners from one locality to another.

The funds at the disposal of the ’two Maes were not sufficient to set them up in business in a large way, but wealthy friends, who trusted them, willingly proffered financial assistance, which in compliance with the old Scottish maxim, ‘ Tak’ *a' ye can get, an’ keep seekin’ for mair ’ —they took full advantage of.' So it came to pass that they were the principal charterers of the schooner Nonsuch (previously referred to), and arrived at Okarito about the same time as the Observer newspaper promoters. McCracken was the more outwardly presentable of the twain, being upright in carriage, pompous in manner, jaunty in step, with a healthy, ruddy appearance, and was clad for months after bis arrival in a suit of black broadcloth, white necktie, and Kilmarnock bonnet—the latter the only unclerical article he wore, and under which, according to bis own estimate, there lay the concentrated wisdom of the community. In fine, there appeared to surround Rab McCracken an odour of sanctimoniousness that caused the rough miners to regard him with feelings ot awe, and as one intended

The Two Macs: A STORY WITH A MORAL.

by Nature to move in a more godly, and in other respects a more select sphere of society. His partner, McCurdy, was an unemotional man, low in stature, with stooped shoulders, modest aspect, and had the general appearance of one unfitted by Nature for the high pressure state of things that existed on a new goldfield.

Like almost all partnerships, one of the Maes bossed the concern, and that one was Bab McCracken. The principal portion of the capital required for the venture had been furnished by McCurdy, but his partner being more loquacious, and presenting; a more imposing surface, he conceded to him without demur a position of seniority in the firm, hence the title, ‘ McCracken and McCurdy.’ Feeling the necessity for some institution that would improve the moral tone of the community and open up a new field for the advancement of temperance principles, Bab endeavoured shortly after his arrival to establish a branch of the Band of Hope Society. But his efforts were wasted on barren soil. Pew appeared to desire improvement at Okarito in any shape or form. So before the expiry of a month he became discouraged in his work, decided that the place was past redemption, and confined his attention solely to the private affairs of the firm. The clearing out of the miners long before the arrival of the schooner containing their goods caused the junior partner much anxiety. Ceaseless watch was kept for her for nearly fifty days, from a neighbouring hill, where, with a long telescope in hand, he was ever seen scanning the ocean in all directions for what contained all his worldly wealth. McCracken having the least to lose by the venture, did not experience much depression of spirits. To do him justice, he never failed to appear bright and cheerful, and continually exhorted Tam to have faith, and all things would come right ; or, as he was wont to say, in the broad Doric of his native land when addressing his partner— ‘ We maun tak’ oor chasteesements in a proper spirit, Tam, and always hae in min’ that faith can remove mountains.’ In that way he managed to buoy up his comrade’s fortitude until the fifty-fifth day, when the long-ex-pected craft was taken in tow, and, as previously stated, was thrown on the south beach by a heavy roller. After that mishap ill-luck beset them in every direction. A considerable portion of their perishable goods was damaged by sea water, and as no insurance could be effected on cargo in such an out-of-the-way place, a heavy loss was sustained by the misadventure. The major portion, however, was composed of tinned goods—ham, bacon, spirits, and beer, and as it was on the latter they anticipated the largest profits, they philosophically accepted the situation, and decided to at once commence the construction of a galvanised iron building as a store. Here it may be stated that litigation ensued over a cask of whisky and sundry cases of ale and porter that it was alleged had been broached during the protracted passage of the Nonsuch. The firm sued Captain Duff for the value of the losses, and the plaint was tried before the late Mr Matthew Price (at one time B.M. for Southland) and broke dowAalmost in its first stage. Duff’s defence

was that heavy weather had been experienced on the passage, and caused the cask to leak and smashed the bottles. This was supported by one of the printers previously referred to, and who, when asked by Rab how he knew the cask leaked when it was under hatches, the comp promptly replied—- ‘ I smelled it all the time.’ ‘Smelled it—even when continuous heavy seas were washing aboard p’ ‘ Yes, even then I smelled it. Any common . sense man Can tell the difference between the smell of whisky and salt water.’ Which nobody could deny, and resulted in the Bench pausing in writing down the evidence ° and suggesting that plaintiffs should prove their case. No evidence being forthcoming to support the clairn, the action was dismissed. It was not forgotten, however. ‘ The Nonsuch leakage ’ was a standing joke in the place for several months afterwards.. Of course there was bound to be comment by envious people— who regarded the partners as trespassers on their preserves—on the apparent inconsistency of abstainers dealing in spirituous liquors. But Rab, who held more elastic views on the subject of teetotalism than his partner, was equal to the occasion, and silenced criticism, and at the same time . muzzled conscience, by stating that he had seen alcohol used medically in certain ailments. Furthermore, he had been informed that in no part of the world was it more required for a similar purpose than on the inhospitable West Coast of New Zealand. The firm had only commenced the erection of their premises when a serious difficulty presented itself, and caused them to pause in the undertaking. News arrived that fresh discoveries of gold had been made north and south of Okarito, and as a result some thousands of miners struck tent, and treked thereto. Rab suggested that they should follow the crowd, bub the' question of transport was one not easily solved in a place where the outer world was not heard of for a month at a stretch. The consequence was was that Tam demurred to leave on what he termed a wild-goose chase, and for the first time during a close companionship of nigh half a century friction ensued between them, and this, coupled with the loss of their goods and the daily shrinkage of their prospects, had a depressing effect on the junior partner, and it was ultimately decided to dispose of the whole shipment for' cash, and to remit the proceeds to those to whom they were indebted for financial assistance.

To make matters worse, a lengthened spell of bad weather set in, and, sheltered only by a calico tent, it was pitiable to see those two old men, so much removed from the comforts of a permanent home and befitting employment, silently pondering over their misfortune, sulking with each other, and shivering with cold in their rain-saturated and cheerless calico tent.

Oa a stormy, wot eight, about a month after their arrival, Tam was even more than usually reticent and depressed over his unfortunate position. All their goods had been disposed ot with the exception of some ten gallons of matured whisky that had not brought the reserve price, and which had been stored away in a disused hogshead that lay in a corner of their flimsy abode in expectation that it would realise a higher figure where a majority of the miners were congregated. Friends who sympathised with them occasionally visited their place with a view to offering a few encouraging words and to endeavour to persuade them to clear out for Dunedin as soon as possible. Explaining that they had not sufficient means to take them away, it was suggested that the stored whiskey should be sold for what it would bring.

‘ It’s a choice brand, twenty years years old,’ remarked Rab, ‘ and we culdna’ think o’ letting it go for what

•was offered for it..’ A pause of some minutes ensued, during which Rab kept gazing reflectively at the hogshead, apparently communing with himself over some problem in connection therewith. Then, turning abruptly to his partner, he put the leading question — ‘ What are we to dae with that whisky, Tam ?’ ‘ Sell itffor what ’twill bring, Rab, and clear oot,’ promptly answered his partner, ‘ Well, I dinna like the idea of selling oot at the price offered. It’s like throwing pearls to swine to bring a good article to these diggins.’ Then, after a short pause, with ‘an - enquire - within ’ look at the hogshead, he remarked — * It’s awfu’ cauld the nicht, Tam. They say a drap o’ good whiskey puts heart in a man when he’s in trouble, an’ mak’s him sleep soond. Suppose we try a wee drap toddy, Tam ?’

Tam’s answer indicated, that he was better grounded in the ethics of total abstinence than his volatile partner, and responded — ‘ Na, na, Rab, we’ve bin abstainers a’ oor lives, an’ we’d better no be tempted tae brak oor vow the noo.’ ‘ Saftlj, Tam, saftly,’ replied Rab, ‘ there’s na doot we’ve come here to fish in angersorae waters, an’ we maun just mak the best o’ it, an’ look the subject in a common-sense way. We tnay leave oor bones in Okarito if thera’s no some improvement in oor way o’ leevin’. A man micht perish here if he’s o’er fasteedious. These digger bodies seem tae enjoy life, an’ they’re no abstainers, an’ Tam, Solomon said a wee drap wine was good for the stomach’s sake. There’s no muckle difference that I can see atween wine an’ whiskey. Let’s look the matter straight. The bubble’s burst, Tam, an’ if o’ny for ance w 7 e may as well dae in Rome as they Romans dae, an’ temper abstinence wi’ prudence.’

Then turning to one of the visitors, a storekeeper, who was in the habit of expressing opinions in an epigrammatic way, and who was regarded as a sort of oracle in the place, Rab enquired if he did not think a little stimulant was excusable under existing circumstances. The reply was what was expected by those who knew the man appealed to. He believed that moderation in all things was the surest means of creating health and happiness. For his part he thought no harm would happen from a little whisky seasoned with sugar and hot water on so cold a night. Total abstinence, he thought, was the right thing for those who could not control their appetites, but his conviction was, to use the expression of a Dutchman who bad confused ideas of English phraseology, nou-dam-sense.

How sentiment and moral obligations vanish when brought into contact with the stern realities of rough mining life ! A desolating gale, accompanied by squalls df sleet and rain, was blowing up from the southwest at the time the above conversation was carried on, and appeared to have specially dispiriting effect on the junior partner, who was shivering with cold. He appeared to realise that the framework of society was out of joint at Okarito, and longed for the comfortable life he enjoyed in Dunedin. The wreck of his hopes presented itself with more than usual force that night, and it was no surprise to hear his reply to Rab when he again tempted him by asking— ‘ What dae ye say, Tam ? Medeecinally—just medeecinally ?’ ‘ Oh, as you like, Rab,’ —evidently annoyed at the persistent way in which his partner urged him on to ruin, but too weak to resist his plausible reasoning. The question being thus satisfactorily settled, a billy was boiled, one of the cases broached, and toddy served out in teacups to the halfdozen persons present.

It was wonderful to note the change in the two old men after partaking of the liquor They had never tasted it before, and it affected them more than those who were

accustomed to its use. Both became effervescent in manner, effusive in hospitality, and conversed as pleasantly as though nothing had occurred to interrupt the even tenor of their lives. < They jested with each other, and with their visitors, and laughed as heartily as a pair of school- boys. Shortly after partaking of the first instalment they agreed that whiskey was not so injurious ’as it was represented by some people, and replenishers were handed round to their visitors. After the second allowance Rab became still more amusing, and appeared to regret that he„had ever been sober. Possessed of an excellent voice, he sang in capital style a favourite Scottish ballad, ‘ Auld Robin Gray,’ and later on, to the surprise of all, struck up ‘ Willie brewed a peck o’ maut.’ Then the fun became fast and furious, and the lives of Rab and Tam underwent a complete transfiguration. Before night had far advanced, these worthies, who had never previously tasted strong drink, were helplessly intoxicated, and had to be assisted to their sleeping places. It would be naturally supposed that the night’s debauch would have found the partners in a repentant mood the following day, but to the surprise of an early-rising neighbour, he discovered the front of their tent open, and both of them sitting before their mail-can fire place with a bottle of whisky and teacups beside them, indicating that the crowning folly of their venture was the reservation of that ill-starred whiskey for a reserved price. Doubtless, feeling the illeffects of the previous night’s carouse, they adopted the theory that the remedy should be similar to that which created them.

The weather continuing wet and cheerless, and the prospects of the place looking more gloomy each day through departures for other fields, and still brooding in sober moments over their misfortunes, to drown regret they resorted every few hours to the liquor, and finding its seductive influence gave temporary relief to their depression, they acquired a liking for it, and finally became reckless in its use. The drouthy idlers that are always to be found in a goldfield community having heard of the secession of the Macs from temperance principles, were frequent visitors at their tent. Free grog was the order of the day, and orgies were carried on far into the night, and above shrieking gales and the incessent roar of breakers on the beach might be heard Rab McCracken’s favourite bacchanalian chorus — The cock may craw, the day may daw, . And ay we’ll taste the barley bree.

But there was even a more dangerous class of people than idlers and loafers at Okarito at that time. Several of the most atrocious outcasts of Australia had been camped in the vicinity of the place for some time—amongst them the murderous BurgessSullivan gang, who were strongly suspected a little later of the robbery of £SOOO from the local branch of the Bank of Hew Zealand. These had been patiently watching for a favourable opportunity to spoil the Egyptians, and learning that the partners had just received a large sum of money (luckily remitted to the firm’s Dunedin creditors) resolved to ease them of it. So it came about, when the greater portion of the whisky had been consumed, on a cold, blustery morning, one of the men living near the Macs on coming out of his tent made the startling discovery that in the place where they had been camped for over a month nothing was in sight but the hogshead in which the whiskey had been stored, two empty bunks, and a small pile of fii'ewood. On closer examination he found the two old men lying inside the hogshead, their clothes saturated with rain that had fallen during the night, Rab’s arms coiled around the neck of his old comrade, and their gray hairs mingling together. It was a sight that could scarcely fail to become photographed in Imemory, and make all but the

stoniest - hearted people feel real sorrow for them.

It would appear that they had been drinking heavily the previous night, and had evidently been hocussed by some of the scoundrels they had entertained. Almost in extremis when discoveied, it took some time to restore them to wakefulness, and much longer to reason. Everjr article of value* including a gold and silver watch, clothing, bedding, etc., had been appropriated by the thieves, who, finally practised what was known among old timers as ‘ unshingling’ (i. e., purloining their tent), and to complete their ignominy, when the whisky was abstracted from the hogshead, deposited them in its place, and left them without any covering except .their shirts and a thin layer of straw during that bitterly cold night.

No clue was ever obtained of the unfeeling wretches who perpetrated that outrage. Men were continually on the move north and south, and as there were no police in the place at the time, it was felt that it would be useless to take action to trace the stolen property. The probability is that the whisky and clothing were distributed amongst the black sheep generally, and the money and jewellery retained by the principals of the outrage—the Burgess-Sulliran thugs. A few days later a steamer arrived from the North, and a sufficient sum was subscribed amongst their sympathisers to pay their passages to Hokitika, where they had friends who would further assist them. McCurdy was a complete wreck when he boarded the steamer; but Rab, possessing more vitality and less self-respect, displayed reckless efferveseenee over his downfall, and as the old Lioness cast off her moorings his vagaries were grotesque and pitiable —drinking publicly from a whisky flask, and singing in his loudest key the favourite Scottish song, £ Auld Lang Syne. Of the many whited sepulchres I have met in life who neglected to practice what they preached Rab McCracken was the weakest although far from being the wickedest —and was a menace to himself and the cause he espoused.

On returning to Otago some six months later I was informed that old Tam had gone the way of all flesh. His naturally frail constitution broke down completely through the last fearful ordeal he underwent at Okarito ; and, faithful in his friendship to the last to his old comrade, was never heard to utter a word of reproach for the part he had taken in bringing about his premature demise. Possessed of a more robust constitution, and of a more hopeful disposition, the chief sinner became, through friendly care, restored to health —and if one might Judge by his professions, to repentance likewise. Shortly after his return to Dunedin he again posed as a shining light in the temperance fold, and, when opportunity offered, asseverated with Pecksniffian sanctity, that for unadulterated rascality, the West Coast had no parallel in creation, and persistently represented it as a fruitful field for the labours of zealous missionaries and temperance lecturers —a place w here, in reality, “ The harvest was ripe and the labourers few.” The moral to be tacked on to the foregoing story is :— * Make haste slowly to become rich at the mature age of three score years, and never preach temperance or other social reforms unless nature has implanted in you those attributes that will enable you to resist temptation, and to strictly practice the doctrines you would inculcate in the minds of others.