A Trip to the Far North.

Pelorus Guardian and Miners' Advocate., Volume 17, Issue 7, 27 January 1903, Page 4

A Trip to the Far North.

[By Wanderer.] Let me ask my readers if they have ever been for a trip from Auckland round the east coast of the North Island ? And if they have not, all I can say is they have a real pleasure to come. I left that charming city with the Hon. C. H. Mills, Commissioner of Customs, on Monday evening by the Northern Steamship Co.'s good steamer Clansman, and being duly commended to worthy Captain Farqubar by Mr Ranson, the courteous and obliging manager of the Co., we were soon safely ensconced on board, watching the bustle, anxiety, and rushing hither and thither of the usual crowd who attend the arrival or departure of nearly every steamer, and who make anyone of a reflective turn of mind wonder to themselves and ask, " Where are the poor ?" But in a few minutes the shrill whistle, with three successive shrieks, announced to all intending passengers that the good steamer was ready for the voyage. The warps were lifted off the piles, the usual number of hearty shake-hands, with the tender caresses between pretty girls (which makes us wish they would serve us all alike), and as we moved from the wharf white handkerchiefs fluttered in the breeze until they were required to wipe away ,the tears which in many cases had moistened their owners' eyelashes, and we were heading for the entrance of the harbour, of which Auckland is so justly proud. The Avind was fresh without being boisterous, and we were soon engaged listening to the word pictures so vividly drawn by the Captain as we passed a level headland or a tugged point, while the number of small and large.islands, we continually pass, with a few rocks scattered here and there, show with forcible eloquence the necessity there is to have an old experienced Captain and efficient officers on duty on board these coasting steamers. Early the following morning we arrived at Russell, a nice picturesque little watering place rendered historical by what had occurred there in the early days of European settlement. Among other places of interest the Captain took the Minister of Customs to the cemetery, and pointed out all the graves and headstones of notable men who had passed to that immortal sphere where illimitable peace reigns supreme. One of the headstones recorded how Colour-Sergeant J. McCarthy, aged 85, Privates Alex. May, 26, W. Lovell, 24, W. Love, 26, W. Denby, 34, and Fred. G. Minikin, 23, late of H.M.S. Hazard, fell in defence of Korarakaka, on the 11th Marph, 1845. Another headstone contained the following inscription in memory of Tamate Waka Nehe, Chief of the Ngapuhi: " The first to welcome the Queen's Sovereignty in New Zealand, and a consistent supporter of the Pakeha. This stone is erected by the Government of the colony, which for upwards .of 31 years he faithfully upheld.' Sage in council, renowned in war—he died, regretted by all the inhabitants of this island, at Russell, on the 4th of August, 1871." These are some of the links in memory which ought to be revived, so that the present generation may not forget to whom they owed their gratitude for the service rendered this colony while in its infancy. After the vessel had discharged some cargo, the Hon. Mr M,' : h left for Kawa Kawa, and, crossing ujo biy, took the tram which leave i* the wharf for that township. After travelling leisurely for about seven miles we were received by the Chairman and members of the County Council and many of the general public, and the Minister was presented with an address of warm welcome upon his first visit to the district, the hope being expressed that his visit further North would be a pleasant and enjoyable one. The Hon. C. H. Mills replied in a suitable and graceful manner, sincerely thanking the people for their token of esteem and respect, and trusted he might pay another visit when he had more time at his disposal. We returned that afternoon and left Russell for Whangaroa at once. The entrance to this harbour is about the same width*as at Tory Channel and just as difficult to find in thick weather—one Yankee captain was looking for it for nearly a week and then had to get towed in by a steamer, but he said that on his next visit he guessed he would bring a barrel of lime and whitewash the rocks of the headland so as to make it more conspicuous. But it is really a. beautiful harbour and could only have been formed during the period of nature's most convulsive effort, the rocks on either side having been thrown into the most fantastic shapes, one high peak presenting the speaking features of the Duke of Wellington and then gradually altering as we passed along to a one-line picture of the great English politician, William Gladstone. The settlement was in former days the home of a large timber industry, three large kauri mills having been kept constantly going, but now it only shows " a spirit of departed greatness," as there is only one large sawmill, belonging to Messrs Lane Bros., working spasmodically; but the same firm carry on large shipbuilding operations, and not long since they built the Lady Ranfurly for the Government. After spending an enjoyable evening with Mr Lane and his family, we left again for the vesjel and started early rmxt morning for Mongonui