WOMEN’S WINDOW

Poverty Bay Herald, Volume LII, Issue 17154, 2 October 1926, Page 16

WOMEN’S WINDOW

“TROUBLE/-MOL” NAME YOUR GOWN. LONG SLEEVES SMARTEST. If winter iJemruuls a uniform suit ami u uniform color, at the beginning •of the sjtring (says the Sydney Sun) women are given an opportunity to exercise all their ingenuity in feminine touches on their clothes. And if they tire so minded they can christen their gowns -with any name freakish fancy dictates; what could be more alluring than f’nquin A raspberry-red gown, “Troubloz-moi,” or a. frock of foamy pleats named appropriately by Poirot ‘‘Niagara”? An evening dress of silver spangles rejoices in the name of “Mirage,” and “T'n Souffle” is a mauve tulle dancing dress trimmed with multi-colored lulle flowers and designed by Douce t. A printed velvet: dinner dress trimmed with black Chant illy lace is called “Tu dernier tango,” and the very Idling for Ramlwiek is Poirot’s ‘‘ Jockey ’’ —a cgmeo-blue tailor-made. Long sleeves are the only sleeves .in London, but short sleeves will probably be the smartest for ordinary wear in Sydney’s summer. Many sleeves tit tightly to the elbow, then are split and hang loosely; others are split to lhe elbow and caught in a narrow band at the -wrist. Others are fairly tightly fitting, then puff out round the wrist. Shoes and stockings are in beige tones, and stockings are of the sheerest cobweb effect. When you have jo look twice to make sure whether or not. the ankles are bare you will know that you are. wearing the smartest, hosiery. Clox arc returning to favor, and every woman who wears a blue frock, either light or dark, should wear grey stockings instead of the pinky tones she has been buying for months. Court shoes are smartest, but one-sided strap effects are finding favor, and many shoes are made of finely-plaited raffia. AMUSING SUNSHADES. The colored umbrella had a greater hold on Ascot than the parasol of lace, despite the fact that the fashion parade was mostly a display of lace ami chiffon. Sunshades can be gay, amusing, absurd, or merely utilitarian—according to your whim and the length of your purse. Some of the parasols are only a few inches in diameter, and birds, insects, flowers and fruit decorate their covers. A black one seen at Ascot had peacocks’ feathers painted on its dome-shaped surface; and another, square in shape, of black lace and chiffon with jet tassels hanging at the four corners, looked like a hearse. Green and iridescent. dragon flies decorated one sunshade, and finely-plaited raffia, adorned with well-made raffia motifs, is a covering at once useful and ornamental. Gay bunches of poppies, cornflowers, and buttercups made of raffia look particularly well on raffia umbrellas. Tho craze for artificial flowers shows no sign of passing, and carnations the larger the better, and in colors which would have made ever Burbank tremble—and posies of mixed blooms are the most popular. Buttonholes arc usually worn to match, the flowers on tho hats. Other dross ornaments are not much in evidence. Crystal pines seem to have departed, and culture pearls are distinctly in pinky-beige tones. Sports clothes are an item all to themselves, and many satin golfing suits, featuring chocks and stripes, arc "being planned. Tweed is far too uncomfortable for summer wear. PARIS NOTES. E VEXING CLOTHES. Already the manufacturers an!showing the wonders of their new textures and shades. Velvets, moires, taffcla, and lame, plain and patterned, represent the rich softness that characterises tlic newest fabrics, especially those employed for evening wear. Metal-threads arc skilfully woven in velvet, and silk on to wool, so that all sorts of combinations in stuffs and colors are an outstanding feature in the new dresses. Fabrics to-day have their direct bearing on fashion —for it follows that, if rich and rare fabrics are chosen, the dressmakers, in making up such luxurious stuffs, must adhere to important and dignified, yet simple, stvlcs, so as to avoid too much cutting and superfluous drapery. A velvet patterned frock has a rich tapestry effect, so it needs but little additional embellishment. Such things cannot he flared or flounced. A thicker make of crope-de-chine has appeared for evening dresses, and in the copper color or deep wine shades it looks very well, plentifully diamante, or in white, trimmed with crystal embroideries. All-white and nil-black will be worn by well-drcssod Frenchwomen for both day and evening in the early autumn. HATS. The newest craze is the speckled felt shape sponsored by Kcboux. Small hats are favored in general, but, many have a brim. Crowns still remain high, and once again the smart woman attempts the square crown in silk, beaver, or satin. Flailed and felted straws are also worn for sports hats. Some velvet turbans and some black velvet hats with straw brims have appeared. CHE WING-GUM GIR LS. MAKING*THEIR FACES'” AS HARD AS CROCKERY.” Tho chewing of gum makes tho modern girl’s face as hard “as the crockery of a railway luncheon counter,” said Airs Ruth J. Maurer, speaking at a school of cosmetics. “Human beings were not meant to be ruminating animals, and when they try it there is some kind of a rebellion of nature and tho muscles of the jaw become unduly enlarged.” LAIMODERATE WOMEN. “Alan is the frail creature and woman is the strong. She takes too much advantage of this strength. Women are spoiling themselves by ovcr-education and too much work. Moderation is the secret of happiness, or I Avould rather say moderate immoderation. Women have not yet learned this. A woman studying or working devotes herself with too much enthusiain to her task. A man is different, for lie has vices to distract him. Women have no vices, and the tension of work is unrelieved.” ■ —Sir W. Arbuthnoi Lane, the famous surgeon.'

OUT-OU-DATE CLOTHES DILEMMA. FASHION GOING TOO EAST FOR TRADERS. I i 72 STYLES IN ONE SHOE. MANCHESTER, August 16. Fashion in. women's clothing—-and even men’s —is now changing so rapidly that manufacturers are attempting to devise a plan which will reduce their losses. Some goods are “ ohl-i ashamed” a few weeks after they are placed on I lie retailers ’ shelves. Representatives of the trades engaged in making fashionable clothing will meet in .Birmingham next month in discuss what can.be done to control the vagaries of fashion. Retailers say that the recent enormous growth in colors, designs, and styles has been good for business as a 'whole, but they cannot keep pace with the “avalanche” of new designs. In every kind of wearing apparel, from women’s shoes to men’s socks, there are now so many different lines, any one of which might turn out to be popular, that they have to keep much larger stocks, and are thus frequently left witli “shelf warmers.” A! EX’S SHOES. Manv shoe sellers keep about forty lines of women’s slices in glace kill alone. There arc at least seventy-two distinct lines of reptile skin... A new style in women’s shoes comes out about once a week. Moreover, it is expected bv some retailors that the color vogue will soon extend to men’s shoes. Hatters are often bewildered by the multiplicity of shades in hats, and by the large stocks they have to keep, not only in each style, design and color, but in each size. There, is no question of limiting the inventiveness of designers and colorists. What is intended by the manufacturers is an attempt to forecast fashions, so that authoritative advice can be given in advance to retailers and others concerning what is most likely to be in demand. At present cvcrv traveller tells a different story. RUSSIAN BOOTS CENSUS. MANY NEW STYLES BEING MADE RUS HOLME (Eng.), Aug. 3. Many boot manufacturers have “banked” on Russian boots being more popular than ever next winter, but souk' retailers are doubtful. As a result, women who visit the Russian boot exhibition in Birmingham next, month will be asked to till, in a question form, saying what they think of the boots. Leather importers have left for America to ensure an adequate supply of “upper” leather. Five times a.s much of tins leather is needed for a Russian boot as for a woman’s shoe. There arc dozens of new models. They will be better, and, on the whole, dearer, than last year’s. Thero are-a variety of devices for removing the concertina effect from the ankles —a fault in bust year’s boots—-and for enabling the boot to be put on quickly. BRIDAL FASHIONS. A visitor to many fashionable weddings in London this summer has made the following notes of things she has seen: ■ A bride wearing a flimsy scarf of white net edged with silver, fastened under the left, ear with orange blossom. Bridesmaids carrying bouquets of mother of pearl flowers and ostrich feathers. A rainy day and six bridesmaids in white mackintoshes. The cupid motor mascots which have taken the place of ribbon favors. The scarcity of all-white brides and the absence of elaborate bouquets. The popularity of the sheaf bouquet and the Victorian posy. The many brides whose ornaments have included pearl earrings. A bridal headdress like a mob-cap, delicately woven of seed pearls and orange blossom. Bridal fans made of lilies of the valley and white tulle. TABLE DAINTIES. A DELIGHTFUL CELERY" RECIPE. This cannot be termed a costly dish if the outer stalks arc put on one side for future use, and the leaves dried and powdered. Thoroughly wash the blanched stalks and cut them in .tin. lengths; boil tender in salted water; drain off tho water, which you make into sauce. Let the celery become rather cool, season it with salt and pepper, and sprinkle about half a teacup of grated cheese over it. Pour tho water back into the saucepan, and thicken it with flour and butter. Add the celery, and mix well. Have ready a deep buttered disli, pour in tho celery and sauce, and sprinkle a few crumbs over the top. Brown in a good oven. SAVORY SAUSAGE DISH. Cut into slices a good-sized onion and put into a stewpan with lib. of sausage and three-quarters of a pint of boiling water (11 breakfast-cupful), put on the lid, and stew gently for an hour. Now add two tablespoonfuls of well-waslicd rice, with a-little popper and salt; allow to cook for about twenty minutes longer, until the rice is tender, then pick out tho sausages and arrange the rice and onions in a dome shape. Place the sausages all round, and serve with a thin brown sauce. MADE MACARONI. Put lib. flour into a bowl with 1 teaspoonful of salt, add Ifoz. margarine or butter (cut this into small pieces); make a hollow in the centre, add 1 egg, and make into a stiff dough with cold water and a tittle lemon juice. Knead this for a few minutes until the paste in pliable, roll it out thin, cut into strips, and then cook same as macaroni. This will also keep uncooked in an airtight tin. ORANGE TART. Make Mb. of flaky pastry, and line a round tin (a loose-bottomed sandwich tin is best); mix together two tablespoonfuls of sugar, two tablespoonfuls of orange marmalade, tho juice of one orange, and the yolks of two eggs. Spread on pastry and bake for about an hour, until nicely browned. Then whip the whites of egg stiffly, sweeten and flavor with orange juice, pile on top of tart, and return to a cool oveu to crisp and set meringue. (Serve while hot.

FASHION WORLD CHALLENGE. WO At EX DISPUTE THE DICTATION OF A [ENA PARIS .REVOLT. LONDON, August i;>. iVoinan is assorting herself as “.Mistress of tho Modes ’’ this season. Elio has- challenged the supremacy of the uion dressmakers. who have hitherto dictated the feminine fashions of the civilised world, and by sheer force of originality and ingenuity, combined with an understanding of the dress needs of her sox, she is taking control of fashion in many unexpected direr tions. This remarkable change in fashion dictation is demonstrated by tiie dress displays now taking place in Paris, whose women dressmakers have led the revolt against mannish inodes. SPOUTS .D!(ESSES. “A woman for women” is (lie autumn slogan of one great dressmaker, who assures her clients that she is catering for all types of women, from the shy debutante to the dangerous woman of the world-, who is not above the sartorial emphasis of her charms. Another woman lias produced some of the greatest sports dress novelites of the season. Europe and America have for some time been taking their millinery gospel from women whose names are becoming internationally famous in fashion circles. This new incidence of power removes (lie old reproach that woman had to look to man for the fashioning of her clothes, as well as the money to pay for them. HOUSE COLLARS EOF WOMEN". COLORED HALTERS FOUNT) THE NECK. Fashion designers have presumably given up their futile attempts to coerce women into wearing high collars in place of the cut-away, comfortable and becoming necks of modern times. Instead, they are seeking to ring the changes by introducing a new neckline in the halter collar. This novelty in neck lines is precisely what its name suggests, being a faithful replica of the familiar horse collar. It is applied chiefly to sports sweaters, the halter being of a contrasting color to the garment to which it is attached. The horse collar originated in Paris, and one of the first to adopt the style was that leader of smart French fashion, Aline. Cccilo Sorel, who included a beige tricot sweater with a -green halter and bordered hem and cuffs in her holiday outfit. DID NOT WIN PRIZE BY SHEDDING CLOTHES. AMERICAN’S ADVICE TO WOMEN OF U.S.A. SAN FRANCISCO, Sept. it. Air. Arthur Brisbane, the famouseditorial writer for the Hearst newspapers, urges American girls to study the picture of Miss Beryl Mills, “Miss Australia,” who is now in tho United States, and to try to be like her. “ As she sits in her chair,” lie says, “vou do not see her knees. She did not win her title of ‘Miss Australia’ by taking off 00 per cent, of her ciothes, relying on high heels, thin ankles, spindly legs and a bathing suit. She relied on her beauty and on her intelligence. “Some enterprising American should marry Miss Alii Is and do his country a favor. ’ ’ IS-INCH HAT CROWNS! The Paris milliners arc vying with each other to sc o who can make the tallest hats for autumn wear, it would seem. Felts for September wear have crowns eighteen inches high, and narrow, straight brims. Another new model in soft satin has no brim at all, but the crown is so high it lops over to one side, liko the traditional Neapolitan fisherman’s cap. Brimlcss toques, reminiscent of the Cossack soldier’s cap, but taller, have a stiff band of contrasting color, like an upturned brim, that later in the season will probably become a band of fur. A shape that will be liked by the girl who looks ivcll in a bathing cap is a brimless foundation of a sugar-loaf shape, draped or wound with a large square of figured silk; two corners of the silk arc knotted coquettishly over one ear. USEFUL BAGS. Large “moth-bags” in which a dress can be put away without creasing aro being displayed in West-end shops. They can be had cedarised, tarred, or odourless. The clothes should be well brushed before they are put away, in order to get rid of any moth-eggs. The bags unfold and can be hung up. They arc proof not only against moths, but against dust and damp. NOVEL PARTIES. Novel parties are all the rage in Paris. Recontly Mile. Parysis, the theatrical star, says our overseas correspondent, gave one in her villa to which 50 people well-known on the stage or in art circles were invited. She has a stream constructed through her salon, into which hundreds of fish were placed, and everybody was in fishing' or country costume. At a party given by an American millionairess diners were entertained while they feasted by singing birds in their cages; while at a dinner given by society people to AL Atoller, the fashionable riding master, four-footed friends had their place. CURVES COMING. LONDON, August 6. There is a rumor Avliieli persistently keeps spreading itself that curves arc coming back. A dress revolution is in the hatching, say the fashion experts of Paris and London. The angular plank-like Avoman lias been with us long enough; she must lioiv acquire those rounded curves and generous outlines which, made the beauty of the famous “Gibson girls” almost a quarter of a. century ago. Mannequins, instead of draAving in their chests and polling forward their heads and huddling themselves in their clothes- are now encouraged to a. more gallant bearing. Shoulders are held Avell down and back,the head is thrown up and au incipient- Avaist is becoming an asset instead of a blemish.