WOMEN'S WINDOW.

Poverty Bay Herald, Volume XLIX, Issue 16213, 25 August 1923, Page 6

WOMEN'S WINDOW.

CRINOLINES AGAIN.

NEW MODELS SUGGEST YIC

TORIAN ERA,

LONDON, July 1. —There is consternation among many women at the threat held forth by certain dress designers of making bustles and crinolines important features of the autumn modes.

Early Victorian fashions have recently been displayed by many smart women at t.he Paris races, and bustles, crinolines, and panniers have' been worn in tho ballroom for some time.

While these quaint picture dresses have well suited the demure beauty of many a debutante, the modern woman is likely to protest against being hampered by those bygone modes in the rvsh of everyday life. In all probability, therefore, very modified crinolines and bustles will result instead of copies of the exaggerated advance models.

The newest variety of bustle cori : frfets of a number of small bows ar-j ranged in a big bunch at tho back, and i this on an evening frock looks dceid-| cdly quaint and pretty. Organdie dresses for summer wear have _ been seen at recent functions in slightly crinoline shape, tho stiffened material standing out most attractively, but these have been "special occasion" gowns. Dressmakers are divided in their opinions regarding this threatened fashion revolution, but few consider that it will bo popular. PREVENTING RUST. It should he the aim of tho housewife to prevent rust attacking her pots and pans. A spot of rust in tinware soon eats its way into a hole, and then the utensil is seriously damaged. Tinware should always bo thoroughly dried beforo being put on one side. If for the final rinsing scalding water is used the metal becomes so hot that tho moisture soon evaporates. A very good plan to follow is to rub all new tinware with fresh lard and then heat woll in an oven. Articles treated in this way are not at all likely to rust. Rust soon attacks the metal bcneatJi enamel when the hard surfaco has been chipped away. At tho first sign of the crack rub some clean grease over the 'place,- and this will prevent the coming of rust. •

WHEN CHOOSING CRETONNES. When choosing your new spring curtains and covers, don't forget that heavily patterned, strong-colored cretonnes are apt to absorb the light and make your rooms look dark. Cretonnes with pale bluo or prim-rose-colored backgrctinds.light up best at night time. In tho same way care must be taken over tho sizo of the pattern chosen. Even in a small room it is best to have a somewhat bold design, for, contrary to many opinions, expert furthers agree that a small pattern used in a' small room has a cramped effect.

A HAND-WORKED COLLARj COMPLETES A DAINTY SUMMER FROCK.

By the addition of a dainty collar and cuffs a simple frock frequently receives just that finishing touch which is necessary to rescue it from the commonplace. Colored handkerchief linen collars and cuffs decorated with hand embtoidory aro used to brighten all-white frocks. Chemise frocks of uncrushablC linen look delightful when trimmed with a set made of organdie or lino cottO' 1 . fabric in a t° no or two light" than the linen. Very charming was a frock of golden-brown linen,, shown in the sketch, which had a modified bort-he collar and cuffs of palo gold lawn worked in Venetian stitchcry. Any girl who is clevor with her needle could embroider one or two sets like this for tho chemise frocks she is making for the warmer days. The embroidery is worked in much ■the same way as Richlicu and reprdduecs on materials tho appearance of old Venetian lace, l'addcd buttonholing is used for the outlines of the design, and little motifs in fancy stitches aro worked upon the solid rart. ' PADDING THE OUTLINES.

The outline should bo well podded with strands of soft cotton fastened down with, overcasting. The number of strands should bo increased at the points whero tho design becomes wider. After tho'bars and buttonholing havo been added and the fancy statching applied to the solid part of tho pattern, tho matorial should bo cut away behind that part of tho work connected by thp bars. FACTS ABOUT DRESS. One recently favored feature which seems to have disappeared entirely from tho now modes is the kimono sl«eve with its accommodating armholos (states a London fashion oxpert). Everywhere small annholes aro observed, with the exception of tho latest danco tea frocks, which have no sleeves —only a deep slit througn which tho arms arc thrust, I,

iSuit coats generally show ft tighter ftrmholc, and day gowns of fine, soft materials are also subjpetod to' tho' new vogue. The effect on day gowns ir beet when the sleeve is close-fitting from shoulder to knuckles and moulded on, tho charming */ Juliet" medpl, which, with its calyK. cuffs, is so becoming to a pretty hand, , A SLENDER EFFECT.

Tight sleeves, tight armholcs, and tight cuffs accentuate the present tondpney to a slender, even scanty outline, With tkp revival of theso sheath - like features A legs informal period is inaugurated. A tight-fitting, garment requires excellent workmanship to make it really successful; the cut and tho make-up generally must po exactly right if it is to bear tho scrutiny of aonnoiflsours. Spring and |*iuwner modes rcvenl thflt oven wnistUnes are moro defined, skirts are generally tighter, and, in somo models, skimpy to the point of exaggeration. DEFINITE CONTRASTS.

Fortunately this is true of only a portion'of the styles from which the smart woman Side by side #lpth suits of tubolikc slenderness are circular, fully, gatkowl models which give width 1o the hip«, Tndy, Fashion is a dame of many moods, but it is possible that she has never before divided her attention seriously at one time between outlines providing such definite contrasts. DANGEES~OF WASHING. How systematically cliildren were taught otiquotto in tho long ago may be gauged from the fact that the manual by Erasmus on thiff branch of education, "Do Civilitate Morum," ran into 180 editions, and was more* over the subject of numerous imitations. from a passage in one of those, "La CiviHtc NojjycLle," published in 1007, it appears that cleanliness was not regarded as a factor in good breeding. Children woro instructed to "rub their and their eyes with a while cloth. This removes dirt without injuring tho constitution or tho complexion. Tho practice of washing iu water weakens the eyesight;, brings on toothache, coughs and colds, and ( makes tho face sallow and moro sua-

ccptiblo to cold in winter and the rays of tho sun in summer.''

WHAT TO DO AT TABLE.

We have already lamented tho passing of those "guides to good behaviour" which used to tell our ancestors what -was tho proper thing to do at table and elsewhere.

They must have been awfully useful. How nice it would be if our girls were still able to count on the advice of good Mrs. Hannah Woolley, author of ■the Gentlewoman's Companion, which was tho standard seventeenth century book on English etiquette. Ilc.r<) is some of it, revived for the benefit of the present generation: Gentlewomen, discover not by any ravenous gesture your angry appetite, nor fix your eyes too greedily on the meat before you, as if you would devour more that way than j'our throat would swallow. . . .In carving avoid clapping your fingers in your mouth and licking them after yon have burnt them. Close your lips when you eat, and do net snack like a x pig. Fill not your mouth so full that your cheeks shall swell like a pair of Scotch bagpipes. It is very uncomely to drink so large a draught that your breath is almost gone, and you are forced to blow strongly to recover yourself. Yoimg ladies of to-day aro never taught these things—so what can you expect ?

BRONZE SHOES RETURN TO FASHION.

A fashion lias arrived for wearing elaborately beaded bronze leather shoes over pale flesh-pink stockings. TheaO look extremely smart with Ifghtcolored tulle or crepo do chine frocks, or dance toilettes made of beautiful blonde-1 rown. laces. Shoes of this sort, cannot be too elaborate as regards cut ot .trimming. Ono sees them mado with a mass of tiny beaded straps extending from tho extreme tips of the toe to the instep, while others show beaded straps cut cut so as to form star-like designs, or lovely Grecian patterns. The vogue for brown evening shoes extends also to satin, for amongst tho prettiest footwear to be found in London just now are graceful jester shoos made of nigger brown satin, with tho fronts elaborately embroidered with sprays of conventional flowers worked in gold thrfi .1. Worn either with gold «T brown silk stockings of cobweb thickness, these ore sold for both ayonirig and afternoon wear. THE SECRET OF SPARKLING EYES. If you would have bright, sparkling eyes, clear and limpid, you must be prepared to follow a few simple rules for their care. Always sleep in a perfectly dark room. Nothing is more injurious to the eyes than to wako ..in a bright light. Never read in bed, especially while lying down. It is a luxurious habit, but very bad for tho sight. If it is absolutely necessary to real after retiring to rest, prop yourself up with pillows to a semi-sitting position. Don't road in trains or buses. It is impossible to keep a book yiert'eetly steady owing to tho motion of tho vehicle, and reading under such circumstances is a gteat stra ; n on the eyes. Every morning givo tho eyes \ bath of w>rm boria lotion. < Get a:i cycbath, or eye-cup as it is sometimes called, from-any chemist, and apply the lotion in it, using fresh lotion for each eye, and. rinsing tho bath out before refilling it. To make tho lotion place a teas.,oonful of boric powder in a clean bottle, holding about Soz. Fill with .warm water, and shako till the powder is dissolved. When required half fill the bath with tho lotion, and add Sufficient warm water to make it the correct temperature.

SWEETS FOR THE "TUCK BOX.'

WALNUT. TOFFEE

Required: 4oz. of walnuts (weighed after shelling)-, 1:1 lbs. of loaf or granulated sugar, 3oz. of butter, :j gill water, a pinch of cream of tartar. Shell the walnuts, dry a little in tho oven, rub off the brown skin, and crush them into small riieces. Sprinkle thorn over a tin brushed over with salad oil or butter that has been melted. Put tho butter into a pan, and when melted add tho sugar, water and cream of <tnrtor. Stir until tho sugar has meltcci, then boil fast without stirring to 300 dog. Fahrenheit, or until the tofi'eo is very brittle when dropped in" water and of a delicate'yellow color. Pour it over the nuts and leave it to sot, then break in piocos, | Note, —Almonds, hazel nuts, or peanuts may bo used in place of walnuts, but should bo dried in the oven or on tho top of tho- stove boforo using thorn.

Cocoauut Ice. —Required] Ono pound of granulated sugar, ono gill of milk or vrswoetened condensed milk, five ounces of deslcated eocoanut, cochineal.

Put tho sugar and milk into a pan, bring to the Boil, and boil for 10 minutes, FlJrring all the time. Add the (jpcoanut and stir until the mixture thickens, but do npt let it brown. Pour half the mixture into a tin, rinsed out jn c;:h> waiter, color the remainder pink with cophineal, Rind pour it on the top. When cool cut it into bars. Chocolate Fudge.—Required; lib. of granulated sugar, 2oz. of grated chocolate, loss, of butter or margarine, ipint of milk, vanilla essence. Grate the chocolate, put it into a pan with the sugar, milk and butter,: and heat vpry slowly until tho ingredient? are m&ltpd, stirring all the time. Simmer, stirring occasionally, until it roaches 240 deg. F., tho softbait stage. To test without a thermometer, dip a stick in cold water, then into the mixture, and back into the water. Pinch tho syrup adhering to tho stick, and if it forms a soft ball, it is ready. Add the vanilla essence, and continue stirring until tho fudge thicken?/ t] ien P our k'tb an oiled tin. Mako it info squares wjth tho back of' a Jqiife, and whep cold cut it in pieces, If liked, chopped nuts, of any kind may bo added to this,