WITH THE HINEMOA.

Poverty Bay Herald, Volume XIX, Issue 6481, 26 September 1892, Page 3

WITH THE HINEMOA.

A TRIP TO THE WEST COAST.

WHERE OUR COAL COMES FROM. (FROM OUR PARLIAMENTARY REPORTER.) The West Coast of the South Island is quite out of the path of the every day tourist, ami » brief account of a trip to that locality will no doubt prove interesting to many readers ■who probably know as little as the writer did a few days ago of the district from •whence we get our coal. When an invitation, kindly sent by Mr R. H. J. Reeves, reached the pres3 gallery the other erening I was one of those who was glad to make the s.b. Hinemoa their home for a few days, and to be borne away in her from the arena, of politics in which life of late has been so dreadfully wearisome. Having had the pleasure of a trip in the steamer to Picton and Nelson the previous week and thoroughly enjoyed it, I reckoned myself lucky in being afforded another cheap excursion by the generous Government of a long suffering people. The Government steamer left the railway wharf immediately after th« House ro»e it 5 on Friday morning. A number of us who had not been compelled to «it up till that late hour, but who had gone to the steamer Boon after midnight, awoke late in the morning to find the vessel ploughing her way across Cook Straits. Th« sea was, for a wonder, perfectly calm, and the weather just magnificent. Away in the distance could be seen the snowy Kaikouras with pretty sunshine effects, and immediately behind ua were the cream slopes and rocky mountain tops of the range terminating with Cape Terawhiti. Across the Straits we slackened speed and approached " The Brothers," several rocky islets, upon the largest of which is erected a lighthouse with a brilliant flash light. The steamer was brought within a stone's throw of the lighthouse, and a boat B«nt ashore with some articles for the people lmng on this solitary spot. Then after a good breakfast—the Hinemoa's commissariat department is in excellent hands, Lord Glasgow having complimonted her cook as one of the best he has m*t with— some of our passengers persuaded the captain to take a run into Pelorus Sound and to deviate from the ordinary course, so that those on board might have the experienced of being whizzed through the French Pass. Captain Fairchild reckoned np how many hours he had to spare in order to catch the tide at \V astport, and then gave his decision, " Waal I think we can do it. It will only mean burning a little more coal, and we get that cheap bo our boat's head was turned into the Pelorus, and for over an hour we steamed up the placid waters of the Sound, to the pleasure of averyone, and especially those who had been there on the previous Sunday, and were glad to renew their acquaintance with the magnificent scenery. The sun shone brightly, and the water was like a sea of glass ; on each side were hills of all shapes and sizes covered with bush of great Tanety of shades. Here and there in the bush wo could see great clusters of New Zealand wild flowers, whilst the luxuriance of the fauna excited admiration. The question asked the previous week was again and again repeated, "Why are not several excursions a week run from Wellington across to this beauty spot?" Such scenery, so typical of iNew Zealand, can hardly be surpassed, and it is so easy of access to Wellington that visitors to the Sounds need only be away from home and business for a very brief interval, whilst the four hours run across should not be feared by those who are usually precluded from taking a trip through fear of sea-sick-ness. On we steamed, each turn giving us some new view, which cilled forth ejaculations of surprise and delight, and thanks to the skipper for having brought us there. \\ c passed two Bchooners beingborne along by the faint breeze (which tempered the atmosphere to a pleasant degree) to Hayelock where they were to receive cargoes of timber. I here were several little homesteads along the shores, and in some places the bush has been cleared way and sheep were running on the hills. The passengers thought it a shame that the forest should be destroyed, and advocated a Scenery Presentation Society. Porpoises in great number followed the steamer, and much interest was manifested in their contests of speed and gymnastics. We did not go to the head of the Sound, for that would have taken nearly three hours, but steamed about half way up it to an inlet called Opi, where the brother of Mr C. Mills lives. It will scarcely be credited, but there are arms of this Sound 18 miles in length, and a measurement of its coast line gives a length of fully 500 miles. During the afternoon the passengers began to get better acquainted, and by evening averybody on board knew everybody else, aad stranger* of the morning seemed to be friends of more than a few hours' standing. Complete harmony prevailed throughout the trip, and it was pleasant to see that political differences of opinion were quite forgotten. During the afternoon the steamer approached the narrow passage between D'Urville's Island and the mainland, known as " The French Pass." There is only a space of 130ffc from point to point, and the tide rushes through tho pass with great force. The velocity of the water caused the steamer's head to sink perceptibly, and in a twinkling she was carried through the narrow gutway. Ihen a course was shaped for Cape Farewell, the light on which we sighted in the evening, and for Westport. On Sunday morning, at 6.30, we found ourselves off a very inhospitable coast, Westport breakwaters right ahead. The morning was dull and wet, and there was a slight roll on the bar, which was navigated safeiy, and the Hinemoa steamed between two massive stone piers and np the fine Buller river. We travelled over the spot where Westport Blood many years ago before it was swept out to sea by a heavy fl«od. After breakfast the weather cleared and remained fine all day, but in the evening came on wet and stormy, and remained so at intervals on Monday. During our visit to Westport every facility was afforded us »of inspecting the chief features of interest. Special trains carried us about the country, carriages were provided for drives into the suburbs, and there were banquets in town and at every village where the visitors stopped. On Monday evening the citizens of Westport tendered us a ball, but unfortunately the sea became rough, and Capt. Fairchild sent word at 9.30 that the steamer must start immediately in order to get over the bar, and the guests had to hurry away from the dance whilst in the middle of their enjoyment. The kindest of hospitality has been accorded tho members and their friends wherever they have travelled. On the first trip, at Blenheim, we were surprised to find 1500 people at the railway station to greet us, and were escorted into the square by the populace to the strains of a brass band. Carriages took us round the pretty hamlets of the Wairau Plain, and a banquet awaited us on our return in the afternoon. Similar treatment was given us at Nelson, and a smoke concert at Picton, and the Westport people outdid their neighbors. Westport is not much of a town. Ife is about the size of Gisborne, but not half so pretty. But being the port of a large shipping trade it is a busy little place. On first observation the chief feature which strikes one with regard to the district is "enterprise," but after closer examination into cause and effect one is forced to remark that the district has been singularly fortunate in having received such an immense expenditure of Government moneys. It has had a very big share of the loaves and fishes. Its importance, however, is not a local but a colonial one, seeing that it contains stores of great mineral wealth. Last year Westport exported 206,184 tons of coal, and its total coal export to date is 1,191,867 tons. Its gold export last year was valued at L50',540. Of its coal, so eminent an authority as the late Hix John Coodo referred to it in these glowing terms in his presidential address to the institution of Civil Engineers, London : "The bitumous coal found on the West Coast of/the South Island is declared by engineers to be fully equal to, if not batter than, the best description from any part of the world. The wonderful escape of Her Majesty's ship Calliope during the hurricane at Samoa, when her engines were tried to the uttermost, has been attributed by her captain and the people of New Zealand— apparently with good reason— to the superior quality of this coal, which was being used at the time.'' Now for a few words about the run round the coal mines. The first one visited was Mokihinui, which is owned by a large syndicate containing the names of a number of Wellington people. So far this mine has brought in little revenue, and an immense Bu.ni fca* been expended in getting facilities

for shipping. The mine is about 30 miles from Westporfc up a river called by the same name as the mine. The river has some very pretty reaches with deep water, but, like the Wairau, a very shallow bar, and the Company some time since lost their steamer, the Lawrence, on that bar after they had spent a lot of money in altering and adapting her for the trade. They hare given up hope of a steamer service in the Mokihinui river, and will in future send their coal to Westport by the railway which has just been completed. In a short time the line will be opened for traffic, and before long Mokihinui coal placed on the market in large quantities. The mine, unlike others about Westport, does not commence on the top of a mountain and sink down, but goes straight into the heart of the hill from level ground. Thus the Mokihinui people are saved the immense expense of haulage which is entailed at the other mine. The main shaft enters at a spot where a face of coal 35ft deep has been opened up. The visitors were provided with candles, and were soon groping their way about the many tunnels izi the bowels of the earth. There are some very long drives, and all of them through good solid coal, bits of which were picked from the walls and applied to the candles of the visitors to "see how ikb.irns '> Tho experience of groping about in the dark wa3 a novel one for most of us, but we were glad to make our way out into the daylight once more, and it was pleasure to catch the first gleams of sunshine coining through the narrow entrance to the shaft, and to breathe again the pure fresh country air. Then we returned over the new section of railway and from the main line, constructed at an enormous expense because of the swampy nature of the soil, were taken in the direction of Denniaton, which is about ten milos from Westport. Denniston is away amongst the clouds on the top of a mountain 2000 feet high. The railway takes passengers to the foot of this great hill, which i 3 so steep that its sides are straight up and down. From the railway station you strain your neck looking up, and if it is a fine day, and the clouds of mist don't obscure the view, you can see tho township perched right at the top of the mountain. " How are we going to get there ?" was the question naturally asked. Horses were provided for the ladies, the gentlemen used Shanks' ponies, and all were directed to a narrow bridle track up the side of the mountain. The track, we were told, was over four miles in length, and not one of the party was afterwards prepared to say it was less. The climb lasted tor over an hour, and a stiff one it was. The scenery, however, Mas very pretty. The hill itself was densely bushed, and resembled somewhat the Motu. In places on our way up we got glimpses of the lowlying land for miles around and of the coast line and ocean. Before the summit Mas reached the party had straggled very much, many having to take frequent rests on the way. The first to get to the top was a bashful reporter who found, as he approached the township, a band of schoolchildren waving handkerchiefs and cheering him. Two gentlemen, the Company's director and mine manager, advanced raising their hats, shook hands, introduced themselves and asked about the rest of the party who were as yet not visible. The young man was then directed to the hotel where accommodation was provided for him, and went on his way. Turning a corner he found the street lined with rough looking miners, and behind the window blinds of all the houses could see females gazing witli curiosity at the new-comer. One or two of the men raised a cheer, and the reporter feeling himself a very important personage, bowed, and hurriedly made for the hotel. When the visitors had all arrived they were provided with a capital luncheon by the Company, and then escorted over tho mining works. The chief feature of interest, of course, was " the incline.' 1 Straight down the face of the steep mountain runs a railway line, upon which the trucks of coal are lowered. The grade is what surveyors call 1 in 1 , though actually it cannot be that, for that would give perpendicular. It is, however, almost straight up and down, and looking from the brakehead makes one feel quite giddy. At the top is a great wheel, governed by a very powerful hydraulic brake. Round the wheel are several coils of a very long and very strong wire rope, with which the trucks are lowered up and down. At the top of the hill we see a, great truck laden with coal, the gross weight being over seven tons. Away at the bottom of the incline we can just see another truck, empty. Both are attached to ends of this strong rope. The full truck at the top is given a start, and slides first down a gentle slope, and then clean over the cliff and down the dreadful precipice. The big wheel flies round at a tremendous pace, the full truck is just travelling down the slope and thecmptyoneupitlikewildfire. The pace gets faster and faster, and wo all hold our breath as the empty truck comes whizzing up the hill towards us. Up it comes over the top, a turn is given to the brake, it slows, and then stops, and the full truck has safely and quietly landed at the bottom and is being shunted on to a siding. It is all over in a minute and v quarter. The working in the mine is three miles away from this spot, and the coal is brought in little trucks called buckets. There is a double lino of railway and an «iu]less rope, always moving. This rope takes the eihpty trucks to the mine and brings the full ones back. On arrival at the brakehead the full trucks are weighed and capsized, and the coal falls below into the big trucks, which go down the incline and convey it to Weatport, This shortly tells where the famous Coalbrookdale coal comes from, and article No, 2 will have to be written to tell of the rest of our adventures. (To bt continued.)