TEA-TREE FOR GARDEN HEDGES.

Otago Witness, Issue 3913, 12 March 1929, Page 11

TEA-TREE FOR GARDEN HEDGES.

Among the many varieties of evergreen trees suitable for hedges the teatree takes a foremost place (writes A. L. Earl in the Melbourne Argus). It may be trimmed to almost any design or shape desired by the gardener. The best effects are obtained by persons living on the hillsides, for tliere they are able to terrace their hedges.

It is possible to obtain a fin? hedge of tea-tree away from its natural environment. Wherever the mechanical action of the soil is good, or, in other words, where water is unable to collect about the roots, there is small chance of failure. The tea-tree has even been grown in the United States. In 1919 I sent some seed to that country, and the tree is now acclimatised there. As a drought-resisting hedge nothing can compare with it. Though other hedges may wilt and die under the influence of a cycle of dry years, the tea-tree retains its ever-pleasing green. If it receives too much water it will die, and it will not thrive in heavy, damp soils. Another virtue which is claimed for the tea-tree hedge is that it does not scatter its dead leaves broadcast, as many other

hedges do. The leaves usually slip through the hedge and remain tidily about the base. Gardeners well know the great value of the decayed leaves as a food for ferns, begonias, and other plants, and, moreover, if the leaves be used as a mulch over freshly watered ground they will prevent the rapid evaporation of moisture even if the temperature becomes torrid. As a result fewer waterings are needed, and plant life becomes very robust under such protection. FEEDING GROUND FOR BIRDS. A tea-tree hedge is a great feeding place for birds. Grubs, moths, spiders, and other forms of insect life collect there in countless thousands. Besides the insectivorous native birds, the starling, which is one of the most valuable insect pest scavengers imaginable, makes hearty meals from the insects found in the hedges. Curiously enough, the teatree in its natural state collects few, if any, insects, yet when it is formed into a close and well-trimmed hedge it becomes infested.

When planting tea-tree which is intended for a hedge, it is essential that the plants should be small. It is a sound idea to remove a clod of earth with the young plant, and thus avoid the risk of cutting the “tap” root, and ultimately causing the plant to die. A spacing of not more than 14 inches between each plant should be adopted. Close planting prevents thick butts in old age. Furthermore, it conduces to that compactness which is the aim of all gardeners, and which is unattainable when wide spacing is adopted. The very nature of the tea-tree is to produce a twisting, spreading limb formation. In reality that is its beauty. Such beauty, however, is not desired in a hedge, and it may be prevented by close planting. There is a method of planting tea-tree seeds, known as “ blazing in.” This is the best and surest way, and it is very simple. In a trench, six inches deep, there should be placed at the bottom some dry leaves or cuttings. The seeds when green are thrown over the dry leaves. The leaves are then set on fire, and the ashes covered with sand. A wonderful growth results. One needs only to observe an area of tea-tree which has been swept by fire to notice the density of the new growth of young trees. The blazing-in ” method saves much time and labour in digging out and transferring young trees to the site of the proposed hedge. SHAPING THE YOUNG TREES.

When the young plants have reached a height of four feet they may, without any risk, be shaped and cut to the desired width across the top. The owner of the hedge, after he has trimmed it a third time in two years, will find that a nice firm top has been formed. This will ultimately become so close and compact that the shears will “ ride ” on it, and not sink into the hedge while the trimming is being done. The art of keeping an even and straight top to a hedge is simple. Never stand high over the work, and keep the shear blades working at chin level, whether standing on the ground or elevated. Use the eyes as a guiding line, and the result will be a first-class job which will pass the most exacting critic. When cutting the face or sides of the hedge refrain from moving toward the work. If this be done it is practically impossible to keep a straight face on the hedge, for the reason that the operator is unable to see the inevitable unevenness which is left behind him. In moving backward as the cutting is done it is easy to see how the work is proceeding, and a well and truly cut hedge face is the result.