HORTICULTURAL NOTES.

Otago Witness, Issue 3247, 7 June 1916, Page 8

HORTICULTURAL NOTES.

By J. Gzbbie.

THE MAGNOLIAS. Tho magnolias, '.'ailed by the Japanese tree lilies, are most magnificent-flowering trees or shrubs. S-ome 3C species are in cultivation, a few of them being shrubs; but many grow to tree-like proportions Only a few species are offered by our local nurserymen. The introduction of others is merely a matter of time. Magnolio grandiflora . is one of ihe finest flowering evergreen shrubs in cultivation. fn its native country—Florida and other States of North America —it attains a height of 60ft or 80ft. Tho foliage is large and glossy, and the large, tulip-shaped flowers are creamy-white and dcliciously scented. There is a variety of ihis shrub named Exmouth. It has on tho under sido of the leaves a dark, rusty hue; but its flowers are identical with the type, though not produced with the same freedom—at least, in its young state. Magnolia conspieua bears in early spring large, white, lily-like blossoms, and a good sized specimen when in 'nil flower is something to command admiration. High winds or heavy rains frequently injure the flowers, mid their glory vanishes; hence they should be planted in sheltered spots, where they can be protected from bad weather. M. soulangeana is somewhat similar in habits and eciuuliy floriferous, but the flowers are purplish-white. M. stellata is a gem in the family of magnolias. It is of slow growth, but in time it attains a height of 15ft or more. I have seen it only in a small state; but plants only Ift high bear numerous flow T ars. The star-shaped flowers are very beautiful. There is also a variety pf stellata named rosea. Its deep pink flowers are very lovely. Another very free-blooming variety is M. purpurea, which attains a height of 6ft to Bft only. Its flowers are purple, and produced during spring. Magnolias do not transplant well, and this is perhaps one reason why they are not more frequently seen in our gardens. Another reason is that t.icy are slow to propagate ; hence nurserymen have seldom a stock of them, and do not push them as they do plants more easily raised from seeds or cuttings. They are generally raised from layers, and these are somewhat slow in making well-rooted plants. The plants love moisture in the flowering season, but dislike stagnant water at the roots at all times. PLANTING STRAWBERRIES. The best time to plant strawberries is as soon as young _ plants are . available in autumn or in spring, winter being the worst time of all to plant. By early planting tho roots get a good hold of the ground, and if strong, healthy, well-rooted runners are planted a crop of fruit the next season could bo expected. Planting during winter the plants are loosened or thrown out _ of the ground by the frost, so that planting is best deferred iitl tho end of August, Tho strawberry is the most fickle of all fruits. Somo varieties require a stiffish soil; but the land best adapted to a large number of kinds is a deep, sandy loam, moist. but not wet, in its natural state. The grower cannot often select the best kind of

ecu! for his strawberry bed. The land, if at all wet, must be thoroughly drained, and it should be Jceplj worked, and if of a poor nature be well enriched. Welltotted stable manure cannot be beaten for strawberries. Wood ash is also an excellent material, it contains potash chiefly, ana a little nitrogen should also ue added. Lime in its raw state and directly applied is not so good for the strawberry, but, it sweetens and tends to lighten heavy land, and so does good in time. It is better applied in the form of bonedust or superphosphate The essential phosphoric aciJ is furnished in bonedust, the superphosphate, and also in wood ashes. There are many ways ot planting strawberry runners, but only one right way. H'he:i tiio gipimd ;s ready make with a trowel a hole deep enougii to put in tho roots down their whole length into the toil. On no account should the roots ue bundled together. They must bo spread cut m every direction. Then half'till the hole with hue earth, end press it iiiniiy against the root*. Next fill up the hole, and again press firmly until the crown of the plant is level with tiie surface. If the plant can be pulled up agair. by its leaves, it its a sign that it lias not been firmly planted. The distance opart the plants should stand depends on the nature ot the variety. Some kinds have strong, robust foliage, while others are dwarf and compact in habit. The rows ruay bo 2ft apart, and the plants lit apait in the row. These are- good average dktances; Lufc a little more- space rather than less should be. given. The runners should be taken from fruit-bearing plants, as there are many infertile plants about which are worthless. LAVENDER. The old-fashioned su oet-scented lavender is seldom seen in our gardens. Une of the old street cries of London that may still be heard during the season is "' Sweet lavender:" for at the present time a few housewives adhere to the custom of putting some spikes of its dried flowers in the linen chest t-o- impart a pleasing periume to its contents, hi the neighbourhood of Mitcham and Hitchin, near London, large quantities are grown. The flowers there produced are not only retailed in a dry state, but many of them are distilled in order to obtain the old English lavender water. Being a native oi Southern Europe, h prefers a welldrained, warm soil rather than a cold and heavy one—in fact, stagnant moisture of any kind is injurious. On sloping banks and similar positions, especially where fully exposed to the sun, lavender will thrive better than most shrubs, for a shrub, indeed, it is. though, not of so lasting a nature as many of them are. Old plants are liable to die. off suddenly, and even when this does not happen both the foliage and flowers are inferior to those on younger and more vigorous specimens. In a .general way, after the lavender has reached the age oi six years, it is more satisfactory to replace tho old plants by young ones. Ihere is no difficulty about this, as cuttings root readily if put into a cold frame .-.bout .February or in a sheltered border in March. With regard to the flowers and the time for cutting, they must not be too fully expanded before separating them, from the plant; otherwise many of t'.e blooms w r i!l very quickly drop. CARE OF PLANTS IN ROOMS rt is remarkable in how few homes, even where the conditions are favourable to the growth of certain plants, one finds really attractive specimens. Perhaps they are leaf less at tiie base,. The leaves may be brown through having received too little, or yellow through too much, water. Invariably one or another of these faults, and sometimes all, are found on the same plant. Whether it be winter or summer, the most important matter, and concerning which most mistakes are made, is that of giving water. In winter, as a general rule, plants grown m pots need less water than in summer. Tho observance of rules, however, is of little use in helping- towards a successful result with plants in rooms. Their treatment depends solely upon local conditions —that is to say, the conditions existing in that particular room in which the plants are growing. There may bo a fire in the room every day, or perhaps only once a week. Then, again, if the room is a large one the plants may be near to, or some distance away from, the fire. It will thus be seen how quite impossible it is to give a definite answer to the question, "Plow often should I water my palm or my fern?" Far more harm might be done by stating a definite, plan for watering than if one left the owner of the plants, provided common sense was exercised, to his or her own devices. A few matters which directly affect the question of watering plants in rooms are: —Size of pot in which the plant is grown, amount of drainage at base of pot, kind of plant, and size of plant. All these matters would have to be known and considered before one could give a satisfactory answer to the **- question above. The only thing one can do is to describe how it can be ascertained whether or not the roots of a plant need. water. This may be dene in three ways—(l) By tapping the side of the flower-pot eharply with the knucles. If a clear, ringing sound is given out, there is need of water; if the sound is dull and heavy, no water is required. (2) By lilting the pot containing the plant. If it is light, water is wanted; if it is heavy, none is required. (3) By feeling the soil with the fingers. The latter is the most generally practised, and it is the least reliable of al!._ The state of the surface soil gives no indication of its condition below. Tho greatest mistake that can be made "n watering plants is to give a little every day. Needless to say, the soil soon becomes sour and sodden, tho plants lose vigour, and the leaves droop ana become yellow.