ILLUSTRATED FASHIONS.

Otago Witness, Issue 2516, 4 June 1902, Page 63

ILLUSTRATED FASHIONS.

Dear Emmeline, — Dress, so say some of the best known authorities, is to become still more extravagant in the elaborateness of detail and the 'high state of perfection to which it has been brought, so that those women who make it the aim of their existence to be ever in the height of fashion will find this a more expensive taste than eyei. Fortunately the ordinary woman or girl does not allow her common sense to be overridden, and aims only at dressing as nicely as is compatible with her dress allowance. Those of us who cannot afford many gowns in the season should arrange matters so as to allow of the purchase of one really smart dress, made at a first-class house, of plain material, and plainly made, avoiding any passing fad of fashion which is sure to be shortly pronounced demode. It is advisable that there should be nothing whatever about it to indicate the date when it made its debut. The impression conveyedTo the beholder should be that the wearer is well but not gorgeously olad, and that therefore everything i 3 in keeping with good taste.

While the cold weather still continues, thick, warm materials will necessarily be worn, and the clinging skirt which spreads out gradually at fhe feet will remain fashionable. - Some, indeed, of the most fashionable materials are altogether too thick,

to my mind, and can only be very plainly made, yet these certainly have a cachet all their own. Tho smart toilette depicted is of a rough-surfaced grey tweed made with a pouched coat of the Russian blouse style. The severity of the gown is relieved by black and gold braid and ornamental buttons prettily enamelled. The skirt is quite plain, save for rows of stitching. Indeed, the very smartest samples of tailor-made Bkirta rely on the cut for their style, as their only ornament is stitohing or stitched bias bands. Some have two seams in the middle of the front and back, while others have one at the back and one on each side of the front. Another style of skirt has the 'seams left open for a short distance from the hem, pleats being inserted there, bo as to add more fulnees round the feet. Perhaps the prettiest skirt of all is that in which there are apparently no seams at all, their place being taken by strips of embroidery worked in applique of the same cloth as the skirt over silk to match, or, in some instances, of a contrasting colour. Tlie pretty evening blouse illustrated is of white accordion-pleated chiffon over pink satin. A ruche of pink roses closely set outlines the decolletage, while the note of contrast is struck by .the black velvet 6houlder straps, which finish in a chou of

black velvet übbou at either side. The fashion of wearing an almost transparent overdress over silk ot satin has much to recommend it, and Mill soon, be discovered by the girl who goes out to many dances and dinners, and whose dress allowance is limited. A plain, tight-fitting bodice and nicely-draped skirt of silk can be worn under numerous diaphanous fabrics, such as lace, gauze net or chiffon. The overdresses, too, may vary greatly one from another in style, as one may consist of a ibodice and skirt, while another is arranged on the flowing and graceful lines of an Empire toilette. Spotted nets, lace, and the finest of muslins may all be worn a la Empire, and the lines of the figure are preserved and plainly visible through the transparent overdress by tho tight-fitting undertiress. A pretty style of this gown is made •with a frilled fichu finishing the decolletage, while long, transparent sleeves fit tightly to the arms, and come well over the- hands. Some of the newest evening bodices are cut round, leaving the shoulder* quit© bare, and the sleeves which accompany them are merely an apology, consisting of a strand of ribbon or a trail of flowers.

Many of the prettiest bodices have fcerthes *I laoe. A rather novel plan for ftlfcpji E2E 2

a low corsage to one suitable for a demitoilette is depicted, the exceedingly simple alteration being brought about by slipping over it a bolero of coarse lace tied high from

beneath the arms with a ribbon girdle. The result is charming, and it would be almost equally effective whether carried out in Slack or white lace. A coronal of flowers or leaves is considered very chic for evening wear in the coiffure, while even a chou of white tulle looks well if the wearer's complexion is sufficiently flawless to stand the test. Net is still much in demand, especially when embroidered lavishly with black or coloured sequins, and one charming toilette of this fabric which earned my warm admiration had the bodice trimmed with ecru lace applique, while a trail of pale pink roses was arranged at one shoulder, and caught again at the waist, the ends falling thence on to the skirt. The effect of the flowers was particularly good, and would be fountl to freshen up an old gown in a really wonderful manner. — Yours truly, COQUETTE.