ILLUSTRATED FASHIONS.

Otago Witness, Issue 2456, 17 April 1901, Page 60

ILLUSTRATED FASHIONS.

Dear Emmeline,— We ha\ c now anived at tho "silly sea-on " in the annals of fashion, and for a few weeks there will be no \ciy important alteiations in the pre■\«ulmg modes. The fashions for wintci are an accomplished fact, and those to be favoured in spring are being determined upon by the Parisian authorities, and are kept; a profound secret as yet. The sales, however, provide us witi'i plent}>- of matter for reflection, and afford ample opportunities^ for purchasing at moderate prices remnants of silk, satm, vehot. nbbon, or lace wherewith, to make sundry useful additions to our wardrobe^ of to ceiissh *ud brighten u»

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each items of dress as we already possess. A review of fashion for the past 12 months cannot fail to impress upon our minds the fact that no very striking or important changes have taken place in that period. It is true that the eelskin skiit is now no more to be seen, and that there are unmis-

tekable signs of increased fulness id our skirts, which, when made in soft materials, will be much fuller round the hips, while the trains widen out at the base. Perhaps the most noticeable alteration lies in the shape of the sleeve, which, from fitting closely from shoulder to wrist in a manner calculated to best show off a pretty arm, is increasing in girth either by reason of a series of puffs or by tuckings across the top of the arm and a widening below the elbow abruptly terminated in the manner of the erstwhile "bell" sleeve to show a puff and fall of lace, net, or velvet, according to the style of gown desired. My illustration shows one of these charming sleeves

in conjunction with a pretty blouse of silk relieved by lace and passementerie, while two straps of black velvet ribbon and a lover's knot ornamented by a brilliant buckle give a pleasing contrast. For a dressy blouse useful for deuu-toilette occasions, rose-pink silk would look very pretty in contrast to creamy lace and pearl trimming, together with black velvet ribbon and pearl buckles. If. however, it were desirable to have this bodice carried out to match a cloth skirt, I should advise that the bodice

be made of the same material as the skirt — let us say, for instance, green cloth, while the yoke is either of dark gieen eh ct or cream silk as moat suitable, and the trimming of gold braid instead of passementerie. Indeed, this blouse bodice offeis abundant opportunities This sketch is also dedicated to displaying the admirable qualities of the blouse beautiful, but in this instance I have endeavoured to select a mode paiticularly adapted to velvet. This sample, as is the case in most of the smartest models, boasts a vest or front of a contrasting material sewed so as to ensure a good fit, and yet in such a manner as to render the task of removal by no means a difficult one. It is always a good plan, and one which the amateur dressmaker should take particular note of, to make any collar, yoke, or front which is easily soiled in such a manner as to render it easily detached for the purpose of renewal or cleansing, a B nothing is so unpleasant as a pretty blouse the tout ensemble of "which is spoiled by a soiled-looking collar or yoke. It is long since some people took to predicting the immediate clorni.se of the blouse. In ppite, however, of all these gloomy prognostications, this particular item of attire still evinces its usefulness in the world of dress and fashion, and is likely to do so for some time to come, as its convenience is an acknowledged >fact by all. F.or morning wear at this season there is nothing co cosy as a flannel blouse, and one I recently saw took my fancy so by storm as to induce me to set forth its charms in this trio of fascinating blouses. There is nothing very elaborate or fanciful in its

toil MORMSG WEAB.

construction, but it -varies so much from the ordinary blouse in regard to the gatherings which secure the fulness to the American or saddleback yoke. The result of these gatherings is to secure a neater fit, and if so desired the line where the yoke conjoins the bodice of the blouse can be further decorated by a band of passementerie, lace insertion, braiding, or several lines of narrow velvet ribbon. Narrow velvet rib- [ bon, whether in black or colours, has of late months assumed a surprising pre-emi-nence — a fact which in the anncls of Made me La Mode is bound to re&ult in a speedy fall, as, when all and sundry find the cream of the fashionable modes within reach, the authorities immediately announce its demise so far as the ultra fashionable are concerned. It is undoubtedly a national blessing that the thoughts of the normal woman are not so immediately connected with her fashionable clothing as to prevent her being serenely contented in a gown -which, to the eye of the expert, is of last year's cut. There are a few women who influence the sway of fashion, but if a little ordinary common sense is exercised it is an easy task now to keep one's garments up to date. — Yours truly ' COQUETTE.