DRESS AT A GREAT STATE CEREMONY.

Otago Witness, Issue 2456, 17 April 1901, Page 60

DRESS AT A GREAT STATE CEREMONY.

(Specially "Written for the Otago "Witness.) LONDON, February 23. Dear Emmeline, — From the spectacular point of view, Thursday of last week was a great day in London. It was the occasion of the opening of Parliament in person by the King, accompanied by the Queen Consort and other prominent Royalties. The route was a comparatively shoit one, extending only from Buckingham Palace via the Mall, Horse Guards Parade, and Whitehall, to the Houses of Parliament, the vaults of which had, earlier in the day, been duly searched according to custom for any trace of conspiracy, but happily none was found. Along the short route people took up their positions veiy early in the morning, and didn't seem to heed the sharpness of the very cold day, although iows of blue noses showed that the crowd was not oppressed by great heat. The newly-arrived Canadians, members of Strathcona's Horse, found the cold very severe indeed ; they had gone to their place immediately outside Buckingham Palace, directly after arrival, and fo had no opportunity of a warming march beforehand, but they weie rewarded by an uninterrupted view of the procession when it came — a view that many people would have given a good deal to obtain. The monotony of the waiting was relieved from time to time for those near and m Whitehall by the early arriving peers and peeresses who were privileged to have accommodation within the House of Lords, and who were instructed to take early possession of their allotted seats ; later came the procession of judges, who had assembled at the Law Courts. Ultimately the word was passed along of the approach of the Royal procession, and necks were craned forward in great eagerness to obtain a good view of the ppssing carriages, which went along merely at a walking pace. On the Royal carriage naturally tho greatest interest centred; it was th 1 * sixth and last carriage in the procession, crawn by the eight cream ponies in their gorgeous harness of embellished gold morocco leather, with purple ribbons entwined in their manes. These hordes were seen 111 public so recently as a fortnight before on the occasion of the saddest day that London had ever experienced ; to many people it seemed a mockery that so short a time after the funeral of our late Queen there should come this function of gorgeous splendour. The State carriage conveying the King and Queen was a very magnificent affair, quite putting out of joint the "nose" of the Lord Mayor's State coach. It was composed mostly of glass and very elaborately decorated gold frames and foundation, the decorations being emblematic of all sorts of things. Spectators were able to have a splendid view of the two occupants; and most seem to concur in the opinion that the Queen looked beautiful as of yore — more like a girl of 23 than a grandmother. As a rule it is the ladies whose attire is gay with colour, the relief being offered by men 111 black. On this occasion, however, the rule was reversed, for whereas the men were gorgeous to behold in their official gowne, it was the dresses -of the ladies that gave the customary touch of blacb. TT>e mantles of thejreer-, which they wore over their State uniforms, were of scarlet cloth, lined with white taffeta ; they were trimmed with rows of eimine, at equal distances apart, and each row was edged with gold lace ; the number of these "guards" or rows indicated the rank of the weaier. With the exception of velvet and satin and brocade, the ladies could wear dresses of any other material they chose ; the tone of course to be black. At first it was thought that the appcaiances of the peeresses privileged to be present would be mournful in the extreme, but all agree in the decision that such in reality was not the case, despite the compulsory blackness. This was relieved by magnificent diamonds and pearls, the former flashing their brilliance in every direction. All members of the Royal Family and their suites wore the deepest mourning. The dress worn by the Queen was of crape, made with a high bodice and long sleeves ; her veil, also of ciape, wrs arranged in a point in front of her hair, and fell down the trained skirt of her dress. Over it she wore a small crown of diamond's, as well as her superb pearl ornaments and various Royal oiders. Cher her black dress the Queen had a robe of crimson velvet, hanging from her shoulders beneath a cape of ermine, and trailing behind her. Every eye followed her as she pa?&ed to, her throne, followed by certain members of her suite. By her side, and leading her by the hand, walked the King, a regal figure in his magnificent robe of 'deep crimson velvet, heavily lined with ermine, o\ er his field-marshal's uniform ; the ermine shoulder cape of the robe was fastened round the neck with a gold cordon, and tho tiain, which was six yaids m length, wa, arranged m position by the train-bearers when hi-- Majetty sat down. Tho King was preceded in tho proco=sion in the Hou'P by" the Duke of Devonshire, beaunt; the crown upon a velvet cushion. H" m turn followed t!io groat procession margin lied by the Groat Lord Chambeilain, pvd consisting of Herald-, Pmpui\ant% \ pomen of the Guard, Sword Bearer, the Beaier of the Cap of Maintenance, find a In-t of other gio.it dignitaries Tho =ight m the Hon-p of Lomls on that afternoon v/a= vory striking and magnificent, nncl will ret soon be forgotten by tho-c privileged to wltnc-. it. In t'-e Royal Crown there are. it is staled 3091 gems of rriccles- worth, four of vlmo'i are rubie=. 11 emrralcK 16 =vpphhr = . 277 poails, and 2783 diamond-. Throughout tbe ceremony tho Duke of De\on<hiro remained in charge of this cnnrmnvlv valuable po=sc-3ion : dose by wa« Lord Winohe-lci, wuo had the honour of lnoVns, after fie Cip of Maintenance. Tin- Cap 1- of ciimson vehet. lined with ermine, find ha-, two points turned to l T io r"»ek. A- it i-s the hereditary right of the Prnniov Duke (ibo Duke ot Norfolk) to be Kan Mirs'-nl. md it 1- thp hcroditaiy nq-ht of tho I\lai-Mi of Winchester (as premier Marquis of Ei gland) to bear this "Cap of Dignity." Unfortunately, thp Duke of York wa= unahle to be prp-p;it, he ha- 1113 not entirely recn\ered hnm the offers of his late ill no-«, and hi- Mstcr, Piiv>o n s- Victoria of Wale=, wa; al-o dobaired from being pr€s?nt owing to indisuo'ii'o.i The Duchess of York wa^ in a drp-s of tiieotin crape cloth — a material wbio'i is soft. an r l now, and costly. The skirt was trimmed with praps for a very gieat depth, almost ip to the waist. O\er her black % oil c he v/oie a beau tiful tiara of diamond's and pearls, as well as other ornaments of similar gems, two of which caught up the folds of, her bodice uu

which she wore various Royal orders. All tho ladies in waiting wore a great deal of crape ; indeed, some of the dresses seemed to be made of hardly anything else. Although it can hardly come under the heading of "Dress," it may be of interest to state that there were two thrones. The King occupied that which has been in the House of Lords ever since the present Palace of Westminster has been in existence ; on the left of this, an exact copy of it, was a second throne, provided for the Queen. Both thrones were surmounted by crowns. The four feet rested on lions. In the backs of the chairs there were enamelled lions, and at each corner of the top were the lion and the unicorn. The design of each chairback displayed the designs of the Royal Standard, embroidered in silk. The second throne, which was new, was gilded so' cleverly as not to outshine the old one. At the foot of the steps to the thrones, right and left, had been placed carved oak chairs, upholstered in crimson silk velvet. These seats were occupied by the Duchess of York, Princess Henry of Batlenb~rg, the Duchess of Fife, and Princess Charles of Denmark, on one side ; opposite them sat the Duchess of Argyll, the Duchess of Cunnaught, Prince and Pimcess Christian, and Prince Arthur of Connaught. It is not my function to describe the actual proceedings which took place within the House of Lords. My part if. merely to say something in general term.s about the attiro of the pri/ileg'd peeresses for whom seats had been re;er\ed. These were so packed that one writer has remarked : "Never before did Duchesses, Marchioncs&es, Countesses, Vjecounte.'ses, and Barone.-ses ha\e to sit «o uncomfortably r'o-c together." The House wa*. not nptrly spacious enough for the ceremony, as momber. 5 of the House of Commons, wiien summoned to the Lords, rfier a fierce struggle to get into any cornei fiom which anything could be seen of what w\i* taking place, ha.' c testified. Although black was officially ordered for tha ladies the decree placed no further limitation save that \elvet and satin and brocade must not be worn. Nowadays there Is such a big choice of materials that it is not surprising; great variety resulted, discerned, of course, only on close inspection. Among the materials used were crepe de chine, dull silk, silk muslin, peau de soie, tulle, net, lace, and chiffon. All the veils were of Foft flowing diaphanous material, black in hue, as were the court plumes and gloves. As for a drawing room, the bodice 3 were cut low, and the sleeves were short. The ornaments were confined to sparkling diamonds, black jet, and pearls, worn ir> a hundred different devices. When the electric light was turned on there was a sudden flashing of brilliant diamond coronets and necklaces, etc., which glittered all over the House. The opinion seems to be general that, quite contrary to expectation, the sombre gowns weie decidedly becoming to all wearers, old and young, pretty and plain alike. Most of the dresses were very elaborate and stylish in make, fine tuckmgs and chiffon frills entering \ery considerably into their const-uction. In such an assembly of beautiful women, it is hard to make a selection, so perhaps it would be wiser to mention the names of a few prominent leaders of society more on the strength of their dress, though pretty faces were as often as not an accompaniment. The Duchess of Portland, for instance, was in dull black) silk ; the bodice was one mass of frills of si'ken muslin, some of which trimmed the skirt ; the frills on the bodice were fastened at intervals by ornaments of pearls and diamonds, and a tall diamond tiara was worn. The Duchess of Marlborough chose poau do soie for her dress, with bodice and trimmings of tulle and silk muslin ; she wore strings of splendid pearls, and a very deep pearl collar with four beautiful diamond slides, and a small crow-shaped tiara of diamonds tipped with pear-shaped pearls. Lady Chesterfield looked very pretty in her black gown, and so did Princess Henry of Pless, and numerous others. Lady Warwick h described as being "a vision of beauty" in a drees of soft crepe de chine, with a sash and trimmings of chiffon ; there was a large diamond bow in the front folds of her bodice. Mi-s George Cornwallis-West (until lately Lady Randolph Churchill) looked strikingly handsome in black, with a diamond dogcollar worn over a narrow neck ribbon of black velvet, and a diamond spray in her hair Lady Londonderry was a very conspicuous figure, for almost the entire front of her crepe de chine bodice was covered with many diamonds, in the form of a large cioss, and sundry broocVs and pins and clasps; while her tiara of diamonds was a specially magnificent one. Her daughter, Lady Helen Stewart, was a conspicuous figure, too, in her dress mainly composed of shimmering black sequins. New Zralanders will be interested, no doubt, to know that Lady Ranfurly was one of the favoured peeresses, and that she wore a skirt of sunrav pleated chiffon prettily flounced ; the bcdice, draped from one fide in long pleats, wai covered by a chiffon fichu. The wife of one of your ex-Gover-nors, Lady Glasgow, wore dull peau de chine, with tucked skirt and draped bodice. Tho dress worn by the Countess of Dudley wa^ of not, with applique of lace on thp skirt, while tho bodice of folded net was alio in-cited with black lace; her ornaments were diamonds. T>y special permission the Marchioness of Ormonde was allowed to wear a high tlrp=s with long It was made of chiffon, o-,or which wa« draped a shawl of dull black Chantilly lace, arranged in pcplum style : the yoke and sleeves were of the transparent type. The Marchioness of C.imdrn wore a gown of chiffon ruched with silk and trimmed with dull silk passementerie and jet buckles. The dress of Lady Btythswood was decidedly uncommon ; its foundation was of peau de chine, but was almost covered with dull silk fringes; thorp was a long sash falling at tho back. Lady Pirbiight's rlre-s was a very co°tlv affair of black poau de soie. trcmendou=lv trimmed With Sources and quil lings of black crepe li&se ; her jewels, too, were specially noteworthy, for in addition to her high crown of diamonds she wore hoi celebrated recklace of pearls, as well a c a long rope of the same stones, the latter ck-scencling to her feet. Lndv A^hburton « dress was made m the eculv Victoiian style. with th 2 bodice off the shoulder; on one slioalder there was a band of crepe do chine, of which tho drr-,s was mado, and on the nthei thcrp was a cluster of black ostrich plumes. But one could 50 on almo=t for ever reccuntiiig namei and gown<= in connection with this historic and splendid function, and own th<m manage to omit a number. I think I have given a general idea of the ches=ps, an«'l ?o the rest may very well be imagined, -1 far as the fashion viewpoint is onnocrnod. Without exception all the skirts were trained, a number to a very gieat length*

Of course all arrived in grand cloaks, and they needed those on such a cold day, and it was this outer portion of the gown that was mainly on view to the waiting populace, though glimpses of jewels oould at times be obtained through stray openings. The result was that cloaks were as equally varied in styles and materials as the gowns which/ they obscured. The most sensible people kept themselves warm in furs, of which every type was to be seen, while other ladies, more venturesome, contented themselves by wearing light wraps of silk and chiffon ; others had magnificent cloaks of velvet and heavy silk. The majority were trimmed with costly lace, rich embroideries of jet or silk, or with soft frills of chifforu and lisse. The Counters of Warwick wore a cloak of Russian sable " worth a King's ransom," trimmed clown the front with frills of black chiffon. Blanche, Lady Rosslyn, too, had a cloak of magnificent dark sable, while that worn by Lady Londonderry was of the richest ermine, with a flounce of priceless lace. — Yours truly, ZEALIA. To ensure publication m the forthcoming nsue letters should reach the W'tness office 1/ possible on Satutday mpht, but on no account later than Mondan night t&~ Desci iptions of balls, <ie , muti be endorsed >y ither the Witness correspondent for the dtttnet or by the secretary to the ball committee. The MS of avi correspondent), uho do not comply with this nde wdl be sent to the secretary for endoi sement prior to appealing.— EMM ELI NE. DBEDGMEN'S BALL AT WVIKAKA. Dear Ernmehne, — The V/aikaka dredgemen'g social, supper, and ball came off on the evening of Easter Monday, and was an unqualified success, both 111 point of numbers and quality of the entertainment. The social started in the Public Hall, which was crowded to the doors, there being a record attendance for W^ikaka. Songs were given by Miss Katie M'Leod, Miss Scott, Mrs Allen (Gore), Mr Blue, Mi Johnston, Mr Hunt, Mi Criukshanks, Mr Archibald, and Mr Robinson (Gore), while p sailor's hornpipe by Mr Hoffman brought the soci»l to a, close. Supper was then served m a large marquee alongside of the hall, where Host and Hostess Shirley had the tables fairly ggrot. t ung with the good things, and too much praise cannot be accoided for the manner in which ilia wants of one and all were attended to. Fully a. hundred and fifty sat down to supper. Ihis being over, they repaned to the hall for the ball, when there must have be*n fully 70 couples present. Excellent music was- sui^plied by Miss Henderson (Gore), and Messrs Hall (piano), Cieen, M'Leod, and Johnson (violins;. Mr Frank Shirley attended to the cateimg, Mr Iteid was chairman, Messrs Dr«m and Dripps ■were efficient M.C.'s, and the thanks of all are due to the energetic secretary, Mr W Dripps. The following is a. list of the Indies' dresses — Miss Thomas, brown costume, gimp trimmings ; Miss Halfka, b:pck costume, white trimmings; Miss Stapples, biowa costume, Miss Lily Jones, black skirt, pink blouse, white trimmings , Miss D. France, blue evening costume, white chiffon trimmings; Miss J. Francis brown costume, pink trimmings , Miss J. Brcsnan, black drcsg, yellow trimmings, Miss Nellie Brosnon, cream coloured lustre, cream trimmings , Miss Jessie Couperwaithe, black dress, blue and white trimming; M-ss T. Couperwaite, white costume, blue silk sleeves, blue trimmings ; Miss Jean Couperwaithe, black costume, blue and white trimming , Miss M'Leod, black costume, tartan and white trimmings, Miss K. M'Leod, fawn costume, white silk trimmings , Miss T. Lamb, brown costume, white silk ti-inimmgs, Miss M. Jones, black velvet skirt, pink blouse, Mi3s Christie, pale blue nun's veiling, white trimmings ; Miss Shaw, cre?m nun's veiling, Miss Robinson, white evening dress, b!ack velvet trimmings ; Miss M. Flajmagan, pale b'ue, white lace trimmings ; M'ss 15. Flannagan, white evening dress, trimmed with led poppies, Miss B. Dickson, black skirt, white figured biouse, bhie co'larctte, Miss Annie Henderson, dark skut, grey; blouse, gimp trimmings , Miss S. M'Donalcf,' black skirt, whito Mouse, heliotrope trimmings ; Miss M. O'Brien, white, pink trimming 1 :, white netting over all , Miss Lee, cream, pmk trimmings, Miss Hendeison (Gore), heliotrope silk trimmed with white; Miss D. O'Brien, pink, relieved with white; Miss M. Day, dark blue, white silk trimmings, Miss J. M'Lejinan, black dress, pink trimmings , Miss Miller, black sknt, white figured blouse , Miss Jane Wescott, blue, -white chiffon trimmings , Miss L. Aitken, sky blue costume, Miss Katie Henderson, white evening dress, black trimmings; Miss Cooper, blpck skirt, pale blue blouse, white trimmings ; Miss X M'Kenzie, cream lustre costume, fawn silk vest, Miss M'Dermid, black skirt, white blouse, blue tie , Miss Ford, black skirt, grey striped blouse, black trimmings , Miss Scott, tawn figured lustre skirt, white striped blouse, white trimmings; Miss M'Gill, dark green skirt, white blouse, green necklet , Miss Ross, black evening dress, relieved with pink , Miss C. Kitto, black costume, pink plush tiifflminjs, Miss Sutherland, cream crepon costume , Miss May Milne, grey dress, tummed with white silk, Miss A. M'Donald, black, relieve:! with pink ; Miss L. Henderson, black skirt, pink and whitt, blouse; Miss A. M'Donalc!, black, white vest, Miss Agnes Henderson, black skirt, grey blouse, gimp tummmgs, Miss A. M'Lennon, black lustre ; Mrs W. Ibbotson, black skirt, white blouse,, pink trimmings, Mis Jas Lamb, blue skirt, cream satm blouse, white trimmings; Mrs Jas. Biosnan, black co3tume , Mrs Sturley, blue costume, white satm trimmings, Mrs Shaw, black figuied lustre, white necklet, Mr 3 Jno Abernethy, black skirt, white blouse, heliatrope /tiimmmgs, Mis D. M'Kenzie, b'.ack skirt, back and white blouse, black lace trimmings , Mrs Allen, black satm costume, bronze trimmings, Mis Pont, black costume, trimmed with fur, Mrs Leaxmont, daik costume, Mrs W. Matheson, cream cashmere, gimp trimmings, Mis H. M'Donald, black skirt, white blouse, white trimmings, Mrs A. Archibald, brown skirt, white and blue blouse, Mrs R. Jones, na\y blue, blue silk vest, Mis Kirby, light blue, white satm vest, white triinmmgs ; Mrs Day, black, satm trimmings. Mis Middlemas, daik green dre=s, light green trimmings; Mrs Waid, white costume, blnck trimmings; 1 Mis Reid, bl"ck figured costume, Mrs A. M'Donald, dark costume. Mr Reid, the chairman, in his opening address, stated that thia would be <\n annual pffan with the clredgiren. I hea. that the faTUcr" aie pbout to srn 0 a re* turn suppci and b tiI.— BLACK TULIP.