RAMBLES THROUGH NEW ZEALAND.

Otago Witness, Issue 1866, 26 August 1887, Page 15

RAMBLES THROUGH NEW ZEALAND.

SOME NOTES BY THE WAY.

By D. Wkight, Dunedin.

Victims in the Toils— Port Chalmers to Auckland by Steam— The Union Company's Boats —The Seat of Government— Napier— A Mis" named District: Poverty Bay— ln Memoriam.

Can anybody tell me why so little sympathy is shown towards the poor unfortunate victims of raging toothache and seasickness ? I want light ; hence my interrogation. Who does not remember the scene in " The Innocents Abroad," where Mark Twain, in a style that is almost inimitable, describes the true state of things at an early stage on board The Quaker City ?—? — 11 One*s safest course that day was to clasp a railing and hang on ; walking was too precarious a pastime. By some happy fortune I was not seasick. That was a thing to be proud of. I had not always escaped before. If there is one thing in the world that will make a man peculiarly and insufferably self-conceited it is to have his 6tomach behave itself the first day <%t sea when nearly all his companions are seasick. Soon a venerable fobsil, shawled to the chin and bandaged like a mummy, appeared at the door ot the af terdeck house, and the next lurch of the ship shot him into my arms. I said : • Good morning, sir ; it is a fine day.' He put his hand on his stomach and said ' Oh, my !' and then staggered *way and fell over the coop of a skylight. Presently another old gentleman was projected from the same door with great violence. I said : ' Calm yourself, sir ; there is no hurry. It is a fine day, sir.' He also put his hand on his stomach aud said ' Oh, my! ' and reeled away. In a little while another veteran was discharged abruptly from the same door, clawing at the air for a saving support. I said : ' Good morning, sir ; it is a fine day for pleasuring. You were about to &ay ' ' Oh, my 1' I thought so. I anticipated him, anyhow. I stood there, and was bombarded with old gentlemen for an hour perhaps, and all I got out "of them was * Oh, my !' I like those old people, but somehow they all seem to have the 4 Oh, my ' rather bad." A little overdrawn, perhaps, but very funny. In the early history of the colony and the good old times as they are called, a journey from Port Chalmers to Auckland, a total distance of 055 nautical miles, was '•a serious business. Nowadays lots of people must travel, and tho same trip gives but little concern. Then, thb conveniences for travelling by sea were few; now, they are plentiful. Then, the time occupied iv going from port to port ran into weeks ; now, one may leave Dunedin wharf on Wednesday afternoon and be almost certain of shaking hands with friends on the Auckland wharf before noon on Monday. The fleet of steamers belonging to the Union Steam Ship Company of New Zealand is reputed to be one of the best in the world, and I can certainly bear witness to the satisfactory manner in which the passenger traflic is carried on. The pocket guide issued by the company for July last contains the names of 37 steamers, ranging from 2466 to 9' ? . tons, which are actively and regularly employed all the year round between tho ports of New Zealand and the sister colonies. The only fault I could find, if fault it be, is that the fittings and general got-up of these splendid floating palaces are, for ordinary mortals, too elaborate and costly. But then I am only a plain man and didn' t happen to be born with a silver spoon in my mouth. Speaking of the White Star Line, Archibald Forbes, who has travelled enouirh to ensure his forming an unbiassed opinion, says : — " This was my first experience of the White Star Line. The state rooms were airy, clean, and fair sized. The saloon, although not comparable in .esthetic beauty of adornment to that of the Wairarapa of the Union Company of New Zealand (to my thiukiug the most beautifully decorated ship in the world), was spacious, lofty, and well ventilated. I have not yet seen an Atlaubic liner whose stateroom accommodation is equal in .completeness, prettiness, and comfort to that which tho Australasian voyager will find on some of the be^t of the Union Company of New Zealand's steamers — the Wairarapa for instance, or the Manapouri. Spring mattresses, electric lights, smart and sedulous attendance, porfrct cleanliness of linen, airiness, and ample daylight these latter afford." As a rule, everything is done on a grand and liberal scale, to make passengers comfortable and happy — henco the great popularity of the comp'.iny's boats. For travellers with musical tastes these beautiful steamers carry an organ or piano, and in a good many instances both are found in the houial hall. Bach steamer, too, carries a well -selected library of standard works in general literature. Baths (cold or hot) may be obtained at any hour by applying to the bedroom stewards. My experience is that a hot saltwater bath before retiring for the night is most helpful in obtaining refreshing sleep at sea. A three months' ticket to and from Auckland|Jcoat me £12 16s, and when everything is considered this surely cannot be thought too muuh. The whole trip is done in easy stages. We left Port Chalmers by the Tarawera on a Wednesday afternoon, and reached Lyttelton next morning sbout 9 o'clock, the distance from port to port being 190 miles (nautical mileage). The meals, which arc sumptuous, and served with commendable and unvarying punctuality, are : Breakfast at 830 a m. ; lunch at 1 o'clock ; dinner, 6 p.m. When the sea is smooth, as was tho case on this occasion, the tables are well patronised at all the meal hours. Those who are afraid of seasickness may, if they choose, retire to their berths after dinner, and waken up in Port Lyttolton in time for breakfast: Same of tho sleeping apartments are rather small, and it is anything but comfortable if three or four persons arc. crowded together. I had a taste of this experience once or twice, and do not wish to go through the discomfort again. Between the two ports already named I "don't think anybody was sick. The wind was fair and the sea waß smooth. As the steamer does not leave Lyttelton for Wellington till late in the afternoon, passengers may leisuiely survey the beautiful sights around the Port, or take the train to Chrisfcchurch and spend several hours in looking round that city or in seeing friends. About 5 or 6 o'clock on Thursday we steered out of the splendid harbour, bound for Wellington, which is distant 175 miles. Once more we were favoured with fine weather; and everything passed off pleasantly, the steamer reaching the

Empire City about 11 o'clock on Friday forenoon. This city, with its 20,000 people, has quite a busy, bustling air about it. The harbour is a magnificent one, and the first view of the town from the sea is impressive. A large part of the city, which, by the way, has an excellent commercial position, has "been reclaimed from the bay. Slight earthquakes are somewhat frequent, and 6o inostof the buildings are erected

of wood, as being safer than stone or brick. There are lots of fine-looking buildings. The Houses of Parliament occupy a prominent position, and thb ordinary residence of the Governor is close by. The pile of buildings occupied by the various departments of the civil service is said to be the largest wooden erection in the world. Wellington became, in consequence of its central position, the seat of the General Government in 1865. The museum is full of interest — the Maori collection of curiosities is both extensive and varied. At about 5.15 p.m we sailed for

Hawke's Bay. our next stage, the distance being 203 miles, and cast anchor iv the roadstead off Napier about uoon on Saturday. The want of a proper landing-place 1 at this thriving town is a decided drawback. A small steam launch plies between the large steamers and the wharf j and is very useful j* but when there is a heavy swell on the sea a good deal of prompt agHity is required in gettiDg from the large steamer to the launch. Passengers going north of Napier wishing to visit and spend a few hours in the place have to pay S!s 6s for the doubie trip. Cabs are always at harid td take visitors to the town, which is nearly two miles off, the fate being Is. Considering the fact that Napier was not laid out till 1855 its growth and enterprise arc remarkable. The streets are well laid off, and the place has quite a busy appearance, especially when the couutry folks and young people turn out on Saturday evening to parade the leading thoroughfares. It h&R a population of nearly 6000 people. Wheu fche breakwater, now in course of construction, is completed, although that is a consummation which at present seems a long way off, Napier will De both more get-at-able and attractive. I may be mistaken, but after a brief stay I thought the climate the finest I had experienced in New Zealand. Competent aiithorities seem to agree that, although rather dry and hot in Bummer, the climate, on the whole, is remarkably equable and salubrious. The show of flowers in mid-winter astonished me. European fruits grow luxuriantly. The district is noted for the excellence of its sheep. Beyond all doubt, with its rich soil, splendid back ground, and glorious climate, there is yet for Napier a great future. At 8.15 on Saturday night we left the roadstead for

Gisbm'ne, only 86 miles distant. At 6 o'clock on Sunday morning we arrived in Poverty Bay, and once more cast anchor in the roadstead, about two miles from the town. There, too, a steam launch came out to convey passengers to the town, and at 8 o'clock I was in the home of my friend the Presbyteriau minister. Gisborne is well laid out, the principal btreets beiag 100 ft wide and planted with ornamental trees on either side. There is a hospital on the bank of the river, about a mile from the post office. It is generally understood that Captain Cook first landed in New Zealand at Gisborne. The natives did not treat him well, and hence he called the place Poverty Bay. The hospitable people of this beautiful district are somewhat indignant at the name and treat it as a misnomer. The exports are chiefly wool, and one authority states that it probably amounts in good seasons to over £100,0U0 per annum. There is a population in Gisborne proper of over 3000. If I- were asked the question: " Where would you recommend persons suffering from pulmonary complaints to go for a change ? " I would unhesitatingly say : " either Napier or Gisborne." Costly harbour works are nt>w in progress, and are much needed. The sea is often Very heavy in the bay, and when the breakers are high there is positive danger in getting to and from the large steamers, in proof of which the loss of life which occurred a few months ago may be called to mind. The experience we bad of the Boojum—- now lost — was a very uncomfortable one. Last week the sea was so dangerous that the steamer could not call, and both passengers and the mail bag were left behind. At Makaraka, two miles from town, we saw the, graves and an obelisk which has been raised to the memory of the 33 unfortunate settlers who were so brutally murdered by Te Kooti in November 1868.

As fco the future of the Poverty Bay district I cannot do better thau quote two or three sentences from a 1 cal publication :— " Altogether fcho future prospects of this district could not bo brighter or more hopeful. With clear land titles, a fine harbour, an unrivalled climate, a rapid and easy mode of communication with all large centres, a fertility of soil unequalled throughout the whole of these colonies, the East Coast district cannot fail to shortly become one of the most important and wealthy localities in the whole of these highly-favoured colonies."