Dunedin to the noth.

Otago Witness, Issue 1355, 17 November 1877, Page 6

Dunedin to the noth.

(by our special correspondent.)

NAPIER TO TAOTO. The difficulty mentioned in my last about the means of conveyance from Napier to the Hot Lake district was eventually tided over, but only by a fortuitous combination of circumstances. It so happened that Mr and Mrs Rich and MrH.O. Strode, were, like myself, en route for the Hot Springs, and found themselves in a similar predicament with regard to the ways and means of travelling, of which tho only recognised mode here was by tbe ordinary coach line — a very narrow line, too, running as it does but once a week. The proprietor of the coach line— a Mr Peters — happened to be at Ohinemutu when we arrived here, and Mr Rich at once telegraphed to him asking if he could supply a special conveyance and relays of horses. The reply was, "It can't be done." Very encouraging this, truly, to people in a hurry, and, so far as I was concerned, it decided me to purchaseahorseandstartawaywithoutfurther delay, Mr Ford, of the Masonic, took some trouble to help me, for even horses fit to do a journey under a welter weight are not to be bad at a moment's notice at Napier even. However, I was brought face to fees with a Mr Rymer, who was in a large livery business in Napier, and with Mr Rich at my side to see fair play, negotiations commenced. Mr Kymer happened to mention that he had done some special coaching business to Ohinemutu, and negotiations at once assumed another form. He finally undertook to convey us whither we desired to go — myself to Tappo, and Mr andMrsßich and Mr Strode toOhinemutu. I may state for the guidance of travellers who may be stuck up at 'Napier as we wers, that the charge for the use of a light-covered inside-seated American waggon and pair of horses, with driver for the through journey, the proprietor paying all expenses, was £25, of which I paid £3 for my ride to Taupo. The bargain concluded, Mr Bymer at once despatched a pair of his best horses to a station 20 miles on the road to replace the horses that were to convey us so far from Napier. The idea was judicious, the first 50 miles of the road beingthe heaviest of the entire journey. We were to start on the morning after the next. Right glad was I of tbe prospect of being once more on the move, for nothing was so trying as inaction under the circumstances. As the road, to the Taupo traverses the Napier Spit, the river has to be crossed at the ferry, and the coach taken on the ether side. The construction of a bridge across the river, and the necessity of sucn a structure is undeniable, is amongst the probabilities, and it is to be hoped that a sum for this purpose will be S laced upon the estimates this session. I ad arranged with the Titi Konra Charon to be in attendance betimes to ensure a good early start on the morning of October 13th. Our party was trae to time, but as for the ferryman ! well, we had the pleasure of cooling our heels on the wrong side of the river for half an hour, whilsi he, honest scan, just showed us how easily a Napier ferryman could take it. As this gentleman lub a monopoly of the traffic oi what, to all intents and- purposes, is the Queen's highway, it might be advisable if someone in authority would give him a gentle hint to bestir himself when Her Majesty's lieges are waiting to be helped on the way. I heard that this was not the first time this man had displayed culpable indifference in the discharge of his duties. Finally he did put in an appearance, with a cockle-shell of a boat that- all but swamped as we crossed, the river being somewhat rough, and on the other side we found the conveyance awaiting for us. It was a promising uffair. Mr Rich shook his head gravely at its weight and the size of the horses — a pair of greys, but only a little above ponies; but that day they pro\ed themselves as game and good a pair of beasts as were ever put in harness. From the end of the North Spit the road lay along the spit at the back of the crown of the sea beach. As the back incline was considerable the sea was quite hidden by the rise on our right hand. To the left a broad lagoon, just the extension of the estuary at the Pore of Napier. It ran for miles to the southward, and waa dotted in places by swampy ground. There was no mistake in the conformation of the country. Inside the lagoon the land rose suddenly to a bold line, with here and there bluff points on its face ; and in one place there were two conical insulated mounts, exactly at right angles to the line of land, and with each other. That those mounts were once islands, that the sea washed their bases and the land inside them, thero is not the slightest doubt. It was once the coast-line, and as the land rose the spit outside and the swamp inside formed, producing the present configuration. There is a Maori legend to the effect that Captain Cook sailed with his vessels inside the Napier spit. The ss.lt water permeates the ground right up to the little hamlet of Patene, six miles from the Spitend. , The road leaves the spit there, crosses a little bridge, and runs into the hills — an up and down track, in and out, round spurs, along sidlings — and finally debouches, from the hill-ride into a broad valley —the valley of the River Patene. The hills we had . been traversing were merely a narrow ridge, through which we had penetrated. To the right opens Hawkes Bay. Some of its headlands were distinctly visible. The road turned to the left np the valley, very wide there, and fenced off into sections of prime land. Judging by its growth, the willow tree might be indigenous to the Patene Valley, or indeed to any part of the Napier district that I visited. The Napier people are somewhat proud of the trees, and maintain that there ia nothing like them to be found in any other part of the Colony. I certainly saw one or two beautiful trees very heavily topped, and foliage umbrageous. Our two little horses had made capital progress, but the road, although level, had been remarkably heavy along the Spit It was level and good in the valley until the latter narrowed io, and recommenced to cross and re-cress the Patene river. The latter waa a stream of moderate size, and about two feet deep, but then the weather was, and had been, fine. During rainy seasons the stream is a raging torrent, and utterly impasfsablc. Flood marks were visible many feet up its

banks. High hills bounded the valley en each side, with projecting spurs, over the points of which we frequently croQsedfrom reach to reach of the river. Ie was a cold, bleak, gloomy day, anything but conducive to pleasant travelling or to improving scenery — indeed the latter was not much. Greeny-brown hills, fern clad, one very like the other, constituted the ranges on either hand, and then there was the river. "I was told yeaterday," said Mrs Rich, " that we should have to cross the river 47 times." "I heard 27," rejoined Mr Rich, and I remarked myself — will count and make sure. A few wild ducks were seen near where we made our first crossing, and when we were some distance up the river bed a few pigeons flew out of a bush. I had heard that the road we were to travel was decidedly bad, that it was all river bed for miles, but I scarcely believed it ; but I can now state that these accounts weredestituce of th c slightest exaggeration. The road — if such it may be termed — j was Bimply 'execrable. Down a bad ' pinch into the river : out of the river up a bad pinch ; or, after crossing the stream, perhaps we had to drive along the shingle bed till another and another crossing was effected. Twentyfive times was the main stream crossed, and ' then the valley forked, and the creek also, of course, the larger branch sweeping to the right hand, fork, and the smaller to the left one, up which the road turned. This smaller branch was crossed and recrossed eight times, pinches in and oubbeing the orier of the road ; and then the valley is forked, and the road keeping to the right hand valley. The creek in this was small, but still there was a creek bed that had to be traversed again and again. Twelve times did the horses slide in and act amble out ; and at last, counting from where the Petane was drstcrossed, they affecteda4sth crossing, and then, blown and trembling, stood to get the wind, opposite a sort of accommodation house and stables at a place termed Kaiwaka, 18 miles from the Napier Spit end. Not once had they jibbed, and if they were Napier bred horse 3 Napier may boast of rare good stock. But- they were overweighted, for ie was evident that the convevanca was

one-half too large and heavy for them, whilst instead of the worst of the road being past, as bad or worse was before us, and the hope of reaching Mohaka that night, where fresh horses awited us, began to assume a dim hue. From Kouwaka the road wound along up the side of a steep range or leading spur, and then our troubles commenced, for before we had struggled along a quarter of a mile the horses showed signs of knocking up. All who were not walking got out to ease the way, and/a bag of feed was deposited by the wayaide on the chance that the man who would take back the horses to Napier would pick it up before it was unlawfully monopolised. For long miles the road ascended sometimes steeply, at others at a gentler gradient, but still upwards, upwards, until we must have attained a very considerable elevation above sea level. The scenery waa striking, and may be briefly described as a rugged country — bill succeeding hill, and valley and gorge valley and gorge, until the eye tired of the monotony. The chief feature of the landscape was the innumerable landslips which scarred the faces of the ( hills. Amongst the scrub that we passed, ti-tree was plentiful, and a kind of fern that indicated a generous soil. Far ahead of us was the high Titiakura range, with which we were to make ultimate acquaintance later in the day. How we struggled up that long, long ascent, nursing the exhausted horses, and literally, the lady included, putting our shoulders to the wheel before we called on Jupiter, neither of us perhaps will ever forget. 'Twas exhausting work, and a few reproaches were heaped on on the head of the Napier Rymer for sending strangers in such a conveyance on a road that if he was acquainted with was an act meriting au ugly name, if it was not an act of folly iv not taking advice from those who knew the way. It was lncky for him that his horses were in good hands or the pair of beauties might have been ruined for life. The travellers did not spare themselves to spare the horses. lam sure I must have walked quite tea miles that afternoon, and Mr Strode nearly as much, and our companions a good deal. A better travelling party could not have been desired ; but then we were all old colonists used to contingencies, and prompt to meet them. I was really astonished at Mrs Rich's sangfroid and helpfulness, and could not help thinking of some of the verses in one of the latter chapters of Proverbs. At last we topped the long ascent, and commenced to descend towards Pohui and reached it in about six miles. As we approached the place we passed a charming little lake and clump of bush, constituting one of the prettiest bits of scenery we had seen that day. Pohni is about 33 miles from the Napier Spit end. There is an accommodation house there and stables, at which relays of horses for Peter's cvach are kept ready. Long before we reached Pohui, Mr Rich decided to obtain fresh horses there, if possible, as ours were quite done up. It was thought that as one pair of Peter's horses would be idle till the following Tuesday, the hire of them to drag us to Mohaka, nine miles farther, might be accomplished. But the groom in charge turned a deaf ear to all our entreaties — it was more than his place was worth to assent. Strict orders to lend or hire nothing having been given him. "If I can get nothing elso, I'll have a working bullock for a leader," said Mr Rich sturdily, and then he plunged into a close confab with Mr King, the landlord of the accommodation house, and emerged out of it with a beaming face. Mr King had a pair of horses, which had done nothing certainly, but pull in a sleigh or plough. One of them was a young colt that would pull, the other an old mare that could jib. "Never mind," said our friend cheerily, "They'll do, and now for leading harness." How he showed himself good at a pinch, and improvised harness in a manner that would have been remarkable ou the part of other than a practised hand, it boots not to describe. Sufficient— we first of all had a capital lunch of wild pork, most delicious eggs, butter and bread, uud a good cup of tea. Oar two wearied boasts were well attended to, and then v/e harnessed up, and after a desperate struggle to get the mare and foal to lead off, our nopea ouce going down to zero, away the animals went, with the coach behind them, for the summit of tho high Titiakura range, Pohni may be said

to be embosomed in bush, and a3 we left it the way lay through a charming stretch of New Zealand forest ; tall rimu pines, towering heavenwards through dense undergrowth. It had been arranged that King's horses should help us to the summit of the ran#e, and then as it was all down hill to Mohaka it was assumed our own two horses could manage to pull the coach along. The scenery ef the range was very charming— a deep gully, densely bushed, fell away to the left — beyond it rose the hills, one above the other. Pheasants were seen flying about. It took us nearly three hour 3to top the range, and the obliging Mr King left us with something substantial from Mr Rich, who. however, vowed to Baddle Kayner with all the extra expense incurred, or tha,t to be incurred through his ignorance. It waa a long hill to the Mohaka — quite three miles— and towards the bottom the road became very dangerous, cut as it was out of the face of a spur that overlooked the Mohaka Valley, through which hundreds of feet below the river of that name foamed and fretted in its boulder- strewn and rock- bound bed. In places the road was barely wide enough for the coach to pass easily. At the bottom of the hill there was a capital bridge crossing the river, and ye were soon at the accommodation house on the other side of it, where we found the two fresh horses ready. But by this time the day was fast closing in. It was nearly six o'clock, and although we were all most desiious to reach Tarawera that night, ao aa to fetch Taupo the next, judgment was pronounced in favour of staying where we were, as the road before us was not only long but dangerous. If ready good nature is a desire to oblige, and the placing before us the very best at command, constitutes good accommodation, then we had nothing to complain of dnring our ahorfc stay at Mr Lewis's accommodation house at Mohaka. He ofignally kept the Ferry there, but losing his occupation when the bridge was built, he fell back upon providing such accommodation for the travelling public as came within the compass of his ability, and has succeeded reasonably well. Maoris predominated at his establishment. There was an elderly Maori woman, lean and shrunken, her large black eyes full of kindliness — we were told was dying of consumption. Her daughter, a buxom half-caste speaking excellent English, deft and handy at housewifery to a degree that surprised us all. She was the matron of the establishment, r.nd appeared to be assisted by a younger woman — a girl in fact. She, however, paid more attention to nursing a kitten thon anything else. Our advent occasioned some stir, for the accommodation was very limited ; however, the best was made of what there was — Mr and Mrs Rich were bestowed in an inner room, while to Mr Strode and myself it was intimated that the two stretchers in the eating and sitting-room were at oar service. For supper our fare was again wild pork, egg 3, and tea ; the landlord, however, only apologising for the lack of svgar — he had just run cut, and the stores expected from Napier had not arrived. But travellers of the Mr and Mrs Rich class were not likely to be taken at a disadvantage ; the good lady — I mentally blessed her— produced a packet of sugar with a quiet smile of satisfaction. She generally liked to make a little preparation for bush journeys, there was no telling what might happen. And so we had tea, and then to bed. But before thetwo juvenile bachelors in the outer room sought their couches they were interviewed by the elder and younger of the Maori ladies, whilst the Martha of the household was busy making up the stretchers. It was a queer tableau. The elder lady puffed away at a black pipe, the younger caressed her kitten, and both gravely stared at Mr Strode and myself, and we in turn looked at our visitors, Mr Strode with humorous benevolence. For a minute or two the okl creature held her ground, muttering brokeu English to the child, then, followed by the other two, she shuffled ont of the room, and we turned to the stretchers. Full of serioua misgivings about fleas and such small deer, and sincerely hoping Mr Gillies wss right about + heir disappearance from the land, I stretched between the blankets without undressing, and before I had time to investigate the questions at issue fell fast a3leep. Nothing so conducive to sleep as hard travelling, and nexb morning I made sur hostess stare by complimenting her upon the excellence of article vended at her establishment. We ware early astir, and at the river side performing our ablutions, and at the same time viewing and admiring tha lovely scenery of the Mohaka Valley. It was, indeed, little more than a I gorge cut down during countles3 ages by the action of the river, the cliffs on either side being quite perpendicular in places and smooth faced, In others the banks were less abrupt, and clothed with scanty grass and fern scrub. The river — a rapid, deep stream at all times — assumes formidable proportions when flooded. It is full of rapids aud dangerous eddies, in which the strongest of swimmers would fare badly. One swirling eddy in which a horse had been sucked down was pointed out to me. The Mohaki joins the sea in Hawkes Bay, at about forty miles from where we were. The first giant tree I had seen growing during our journey wa3 growing upon its banks. Wiid pork and eggs, and coffee bewitched, for breakfast, was pur fare, and then, after discharging our hotel bill, remarkable for its brevity, we started on the road for Tarawera. It was all up hill to the top of Te Harota range, a gradual ascent through open fern country of a poor character, but susceptible of improvement. Here and there small but luxuriant patches of poa grass were to be seen, aud as my companions, men having a keen eye to the capabilities of country, remarked, the time would come when the wastes of fern would bo replaced by pastures of strong mountain poa, grass, the most suitable for the land. On the very summit of the Te Harofca range, perched on a pinnacle, was the Te Harota constabulary station, resembling nothing so much as a huge dove-cote, resting on and overlapping all round a strong foundation of logs. That tho house was pierced for musketry was plainly discernable. It was occupied, I understood, by a couple of earned constables, employed in kcaping the road in repair. A large bush, that stretched across neighbouring gullie-j and spurs, commenced near tho blockhouse, which, is about six miles jrom Mohanaka. The road wound along tho top of the range for * mile or so, and then descended

into a valley thickly bushed, in which an accommodation station is incourse of formation. An old constabulary man, named Kennedy, has obtained a lease, on easy terms, of 500 acres of land, from Mr Cox, tbe squatter, who leased from the Government nearly all the country from Patene Valley to Tarawera, and who has lately released to the Messrs M'Lellan all the district from the Mohaka to Tarawera. Kennedy has built a small cottage, and is about to build a large one for the use of travellers. He was very chatty, and told how closely the Te Arata block was once invested by the Maoris, so that a strong armed party had to be told off to guard the men who fetched water from the spring. On each side of the wood from Ti Harota the bush had been cleared away for a chain or two to destroy cover and obviate the possibility of Maori ambuscades. This reminded us that we were treading on almost classic ground, where the two races had met in deadly struggle for supremacy. Many pheasants feedingclosetocoverwereseenaa we , journeyed from. Mohaka; and as that part of the country waa, I imagined, seldom shot over, it is likely to become a huge preserve ■ swarming with game. From the Te Harota Valley we commenced the ascent of Tirangikumi Range, so named from the Maori words "rest yourself." The way was through' bush, and very beautiful it looked — rimu, rata, and black pine predominating, with here and there a broadleaf tree. Four' miles or so of a climb and the summit ef Tirangikumi waa gained ; and if we did not rest ourselves the horses were not forgotten. What a glorious panorama was spread out before us as we gazed wonderingly and delightedly forth from, our high standpoint across valleys and gorges, with peaks tapering to points, and volcanic cones retaining the outline of craters, from which in ages gone by fire and lava were belched forth. Dense bushe« of mighty timber, luxuriant in growth, clothed in places the hillsides and valieys and iv the distance was spread out the Tarwera Valley, dwarfed by comparison with the mighty hills around it. The scenery of this part of the district was eminently sui generis. We had seen nothing like it in the world, and neither did we after we passed the Kaimanawa Range, that separates the Tarawera Valley from the Taupo country. The number of volcanic cones strewed, through this stretch of country was something remarkable, and its volcanic origin was plainly demonstrated by the formation, tufa, pumice stone, and trachyte abounding. The road indeed was in many places cut through ridges of pumice stone, and tufa debris. It was the commencement of a formation that extended right to Tapuaeharuru. The descent of the rangeonitsnorthernsidewasmuchmore abrupt than the ascent from the south. The road that Irequently skirted precipices going nearly sheer down , for hundreds of feet, wound in and out of and round leading spurs, and finally' debouched into a wide, broken, valley, and close to a stream known 'as. the' Double Crossing, se named because in the old' packing times the pack track crossed it twice. ' Passing this arid fchrougb a fine bush, Storiey Creek — a good sized stream' in about the centre of the valley — was come to, and' crossed. The name was appropriate, as, the: waggon bumped furiously over it. About half a mile ,up the gully above where we crossed is a hot spring that has been visited but by few Europeans,- and is credited with marvellous curative properties by the Maoris. . It is situated on the range side in a nearly, inaccessible position, but to which a track' might be cut. A short distance beyond the creek and we left the valley and passed through a low range by a winding road into the Tarawera Valley, and, "in due course reached the accommodation house 17 miles from Mohaka and 53 from Napier. The weather had been cold and misty during the day, marred in no slight degree our view of the grand scenery through which we had passed. The afternoon was well advanced ere we reached Tarawera, and I may add the heavy trap had pretty well taken it ous of the horses, much to the disgust of Mr Rich. He decided to tolerate no more such travelling. No sooner had we alighted then he instituted inquiries with the view of obtaining a third horse, and a lighter conveyance. We scarcely expected either, and yet atrange to say, both were forthcoming. Tatawera township is situated on land confiscated from the rebel natives. Two thousand acres were taken, of which 500 were laid out as a township, 500 were put to the purpose of endowing an accommodation-house, and the 1000 acres were held in reserve. The ac-commodation-house is the Tarawera Hotel, kept by a Mr Sutherland, once of West Taieri, were several of his brothers still re side. He conducts bis house ia a most creditable manner, and is untiring in his attention to travellers. Soon after we arrived he invited us to pay a visit- to a hot spring about a mile aud a half from the house. Until th^t day I had no idea of hot springs at Tarawera, and as the one in quescion had been visited jby but ■ very few- people . outside the larawera district,' and certainly ;had never been noticed in print,' I gladly accepted his invitation, and with Mr Strode started for the place. We found the spring welling from the side of the range into a large wooden bath constructed by Mr Sutherland, I tested its temperature with the thermometer and found it at 110 degrees, a degree or two higher where the water flowed in. It was a sulphur and, nitre spring, silver when immersed in it turning black in a very short time. It is almost needless to say that we bathe 1 and greatly enjoyed our dip. A noticeable circumstance in connection with the latter was that although the temperature of the water was so high above the temperature of the atmosphere (48), we did not experience the slightest chilliness on emerging from the warm water. The dense impregnation of the water with minerals very likely conduced to this effect. Beside the accommodation house at Tarawera there were Armed Constabularly stations, occupied by Sub-Inspecbor Gascoigne, a, sergeant, and ten or a dozen constables, all of whom are engaged upon road works. Two blockhouses, that are yGt still regarded as places of possible resort for safety, form part of the station buildings. There is also a store, and | blacksmith's and butcher's shbp3, and a j 9-stall stable attached to the accommodation. I house. Of course the inhabitants are not j very numerous, but the necessity of a school I is beginning to be felt ? as there are some 16

or 17 children commencing, ito; run wild. Matters judicial are managed by Major Koberts, the officer in charge of ,the constabulary district, and its Resident Magistrate. He pays a monthly visit to Tarawera to deal with any cases that may have cropped up; of which, however there are very few. ■ Taratwera is in the Waicoa sub-district, of rthe Hawkes Bay district, but is so close to the. boundary of the Auckland district that the line passes within about 400. yards of the hotel. A beautiful little river, the Wai; panga — Anglice, " Dark Water " — runs through it and joins the Mohaka' at Wai* tara. About half a mile from the hotel,, and close to the high road to Taupo, is the site of a sanguinary engagement' that took place in 1869 between 7 a* party of Han Haus and another of ' Queen natives. There is a telegraph" station, at Tarawera, so that, although, so far , afield^ travellers are still within hailing distance' of all parts of the Colony. Our host ,had bestirred himself, to provide a good,' dinner; which was discussed with all the more zest because Mr Rich had succeeded in improvising just the kind of turn out that ought to. be depended upon to take us to Taupojon the fplr lowing day, A third horse 'and lighter trap had been procured from Mr, Griffiths, thft^ butcher, and, with our own, horses,^wdula j be all that could be desired, proyided"4.fc did not rain, • for the trap had no cover to it. But such as it was,- Mr Rich expressed: him? self as thoroughly contented 'with it." y Certain it was, that with the old turn out' we should have been two days going from-Tara-wera to Taupo. I should think 'that ' Tarawera, water would yield well upon analysis, for to me it tasted like a decoction of .flatirons. Being thirsty, I asked for a glass, and having drank it, remarked to the landlord, "This water has surely been standing in the bucket a long time." -To ' which h« made no reply. Shortly afterwards Mr Strode asked for a glaas of water of the attendant handmaid. I added, "Would you kindly draw a fresh bucketful.!' A jug 6i water fresh drawn from, the spring Was brought in, and on tasting it we at once declared it was impregnated with iron,, as no doubt it was. Still it was not unpleasant, and, I should say,' wholesome. , Having penetrated so far in the' Maori • country it might, be supposed that natives were numerous there, but it was quite 'the reverse,' the total, number in that part of the district being estimated at only 50 or 60) chiefly of the Arawa tribe. They were described as in very poor, miserable circumstance's,' all their land having been confiscated. . ' , ' . ']]