THE GARDEN

Otago Daily Times, Issue 26771, 14 May 1948, Page 8

THE GARDEN

Contributed by D. TANNOCK. A.H.R.H.B. t=t==*Bc= : v rsssssesssa ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS "Amateur,” Oamaru. —Your chrysanthemums are attacked by the fungus disease called rust. There is little you can do now to the old plants. Treatment should commence with the cuttings, and as a preventive the cuttings should be dipped in a solution of sulphide of potassium (half an ounee in a gallon of water) before they are inserted, and again when they are small in the pots. This, will usually keep them clean during the early part of the season, and another spraying over the whole of the old foliage, paying special attention to the under sides of the leaves, before they are housed will keep them clean. L. J. A„ Auckland.—You should dust your gerberas with flowers of sulphur or White Island product, and pick off and burn the badly-affected leaves. A silver birch should show the white stem quite early, if growing well, at the third or fourth year. It is often attacked by aphis during the summer, which leaves a black deposit called sooty blight, on the stem and branches. Spraying with soapy water will clean it off. A. R. R., Ravensbourne.—Wire worms are very troublesome when potatoes are planted in ground which has been in grass for some time. The beetle lays its eggs in this rough material, and unfortunately the grub stage lasts for two or three years or more. Growing a crop of mustard and digging it in is recommended. Crude napthaline or horticultural naphthaline (known as hort nap) worked into the soil at the rate of three ounces to the square yard is also recommended. You should dig up your soil and leave it rough during the -’ winter. Give a light dressing of lime in the spring. “ Stranger,” Central Otago.—lt is difficult to identify a plant by a ieaf, but it looks remarkably like hemp. It often comes with bird seed. ’’ Pear.”—The name of the pear is Beaurre Deil. It is quite common to have small pears among the normally developed ones. This may be due to lack of pollination or late flowering. F. W.. Balclutha.—The apples sent are Red Statesman, a valuable late cropper, but quite distinct from the Sturnter, which is one of the best all-round apples and a good keeper. WORK FOR NEXT FOUR WEEKS As the soil is in good working order, being neither too wet nor too ary, and it has not cooled down yet to any extent, all planting of either trees and shrubs, fruit trees, bushes or vines, and spring bedding plants should be carried out as soon as possible. In the flower garden, wallflower, forget-me-not Sweet William, antirrhinums, biennial stocks, polyanthus primroses, Canterbury bells, and all kinds of hardy herbaceous perennials can be planted, as well as tulips, hyacinths, anemones, ranunculus, and all kinds of spring and early summer flowering bulbs and corms. All these have time to become established before the cold, frostly weather sets in. As the annuals are now quite over, or at aity rate past their best, they can be cleared out. The perennials, which are also past, can be cut over, the gladioli can be lifted, the foliage cut over at six inches from the corn, and they can then be spread out in boxes to drj> before being cleaned and stored away for the winter. Dahlias can be lifted if this is necessary, but if not in the way of planting they keep quite well in the ground during the winter if covered with some straw or leaves during the most severe frosty weather. Vigorous herbaceous perennials such as Michaelmas daisies can be divided up and pieces from the outside of the clump replanted. The borders can then be pointed over and left tidy for the winter. »

Rambler and climbing roses trained on trellis fences or pergolas can be pruned now, and if new plants are desired pieces of the young, well-ripened wood about a foot long can be put in as cuttings in a well-drained border. The rock garden should be overhauled and all dead leaves or other rubbish which would shelter slugs during the winter removed. Cut back any of the rampant growers which are encroaching on more choice plants, fork up the surface of the pockets lightly, and give a light top-dressing where necessary. Dust under the mat plants with lime to destroy slugs. THE VEGETABLE GARiDEN

Root crops such as carrots, swedes, beetroot and parsnips can be lifted and stored in sand or light soil in a cellar or shed, and all vacant ground can be trenched or dug deeply, taking care to leaving the surface as loose and open as possible to expose it to the action of frost, winds, etc., during the winter. In the portion to be trenched, all old vegetable matter from either the flower, vegetable garden or the kitchen can be buried, at least a foot below the surface. Leeks and celery can receive their final earthing up, and the hoe can be run through among all growing crops to destroy weeds and keep the surface open. Asparagus should be cut over, the surface of the bed weeded and lightly pricked up with a fork, but the topdressing with manure, seaweed or compost should be left until later on. If the soil Is heavy a topdressing of sea sand can be given to help to open it up. \ Broad beans can be sown now, though I prefer to wait until the shortest day, when shallots, too, can be planted. Round seeded dwarf peas can be sown on welldrained sunny positions, but they must be protected with wireguards or in some other way from birds. Cabbage can be planted, and rhubarb roots for replanting in the spring should be lifted and exposed to the weather before replanting in well-manured and deeply-cultivated ground. Seed pods of runner beans should now be ripe enough to pick, but they can be left spread out in boxes for a little while before shelling. THE FRUIT GARDEN As soon as the leaves have fallen, the fruit trees and bushes with the exception of peaches and nectarines can be pruned. After raking up the prunings and all leaves and fallen fruit (which should be burned) weeds and any old mulching material should be cleaned off, and the surface soil pricked up lightly with a fork, but not dug deeply with a spade, which will destroy the surface roots. GREENHOUSE AND NURSERY Plants growing in frames will require to be watered very carefully now, and the sashes should be pulled right off whenever conditions are favourable to encourage hardy and sturdy growth. As soon as the chrysanthemums are past their best they can be cut over, lightly top-dressed and placed out in a frame to encourage the development of short young shoots round the base of the old flower stems. These to be put in as cuttings later on. Bulbs and corms which were potted up some time ago should be examined from time to time, and if growth has started they should be placed in a cold frame In the meantime. GARDENING CLUB At the last meeting of the Dunedin Gardening Club, which was held in conjunction with the Local District Council of the Royal New Zealand Institute of Horticulture, interesting and instructivefilms of the Kew Gardens, “ When We Build Again” (illustrating the modern planning of a city), " Tire City Water Supply,” and “ The Land of Inventors ” were shown. Certificates of fellowship of the Institute were presented by the president. Mr T. Y. Turner. The following were recommended for fellowship by the local district council and approved by the Selection Committee in Wellington:—Messrs T. Y. Turner, G Simpson, D. Jolly, R. G. Fountain. W. Thomson, W. Crawford, M. R. Skipworth, R. Balch, C. McLaughlan, O. Bennet, M. Mathewson, J. Weir, J. Deans, F. S. Perret, P. Barling, J. Barling, J. Watt, G. H. Brownlee. J. Black, M. V. Dickenson, G. Attwood. H. S. Hungerford, K. Ramsay, S. R. Hughes (Tapanui), T. Robertson (Clvde), Mrs Bathgate (Outram). Messrs A R. Shepherd (Balclutha), K. B. Christie A. White. C. Tischner. D. Martin (Beaumont), R. Kinnnird (Alexandra), B. M. Jeffrey (Roxburgh), G. F. Green. J. Passmore A. M. Davidson, A. C. Cameron, A. P. Cameron, Mrs Orr Campbell. Messrs P. Vallange and G. D. Donaldson, Mrs Burrows, Miss Chapman. Miss G. Williams. Messrs R. E. Binifield and W. J. Wilson Mrs D. G. Nicolson and Mr P. H. Johnson (Pleasant Point). At the meeting to be held on Tuesday next, Mr Preen will give a talk on chrysanthemums.