A MONTH IN THE HOLLYFORD

Otago Daily Times, Issue 22498, 16 February 1935, Page 8

A MONTH IN THE HOLLYFORD

By R. E. M'Lat.

The Hollyford is one of the major rivers of the South Island that empty their waters into the Tasman. At its mouth is Martin’s Bay, which is located between Milford Sound and the Haast River mouth. Its source can be reached by tramping up the Upper Hollyford Valley from the present terminus of the Eglinton Valley road to a point under the Gertrude Saddle, from which latter place can be obtained a view of Milford Sound, some seven or eight miles away. The waters of the Hollyford flow through the magnificent Upper and Lower Hollyford Valleys, which are unrivalled for scenic grandeur and magnificence. The slopes of these valleys Vise up through virgin bush, pine and totara forest to peaks which tower 8000 and 9000 feet into the sky. The region is a hiker’s paradise, abounding as it does in glistening snow and ice fields, turbulent rapids and beautiful birdlife. /’■ . reach a starting point for a proposed trip in the Hollyford, a variety of routes is available. There is the wonderful Eglinton Valley, which can now bo traversed by car on one of the best roads in this country. There is the Greenstone Valley, for which the starting point is Elfin Bay on Lake Wakatipu. Finally, there is the Routeburn Valley, with Kinloch, at the head of Lake Wakatipu. All these routes lead to the Government hut on the edge of Lake Howden, which is the recognised centre for doing the many trips that can be made in the Hollyford Valley. Our modest party of two chose the last of the three. We began our Journey with light packs on a scorching hot January day. Our main supplies had been packed by horse up the Greenstone to Howden. The first part of the tramp is comparatively uninteresting, following the bed of the Dart River. A benevolent lorry driver, however, relieved us of this to the extent of some 10 miles, and from this point we began our tramp in earnest. The Routeburn Valley, already familiar to hundreds of trampers, passes through some miles of birch forest and rises very gradually through the midst of Nature’s grandeur, going all the time up the right-hand side of the Routeburn. Finally, it comes out on a river flat, q,nd a short distance brings one, after fording a river, to the huts. From them a magnificent view is obtained of steep, bush-clad slopes rising up to mountain .tops, with snow-capped Mount Somnus pre-eminent. We found other parties already at the huts, and from them we received a royal welcome, characteristic of all trampers. A prompt start next morning and a steep climb was begun .immediately up through the bush behind the huts. We came eventually on to a tussocky fiat where we had the misfortune to lose the track and much t’me. It was found at last, although it is ill-defiued, and we went on to lunch at Lake Harris. A short climb round and above Lake Harris brought us to the Harris Saddle. The time from Routeburn huts is about three and a-half hours’ steady climbing, but I am afraid our time much exceeded that. It is interesting perhaps to note that a knowledge of miles in this country is not of much value. The miles given in maps or guide books are those of the crow, and, when they come to be tramped, are often long ones. What is more valuable is travelling times from one point to , another on the track. It is doubtful if, on the average, more than two miles an hour are covered. From the Harris Saddle we were confronted with a grand spectacle. We were now on the sides of the Lower Hollyford Valley. The day was clear, and across on the opposite side towered the mighty peaks of Christina, Madeline, Tutoko and many others. Thousands of feet below was the Hollyford River. Further round the track, which leads up the valley up the mountain sides above the bush line, we were privileged with a view of Lake M'Kerrow (into which the Hollyford flows just before reaching its mouth) and the breakers at Martin’s Bay, 30 miles away. Our track led on through beautiful daisies and sub-alpine flora. Suddenly we came to a bluff on the hillside, and there below was a gem among lakes, Lake M‘Kenzie, with water like glass and bush to its edge. Looking up it, we had a clear view of the Emily Pass. Going down the hillside by a zigzag to the top of the bush, we spent some time looking for the beginning of the track that leads through it One has to find the trees that are ’ blazemarked and follow them. Otherwise the going is practically impossible and many hours can be wasted negotiating a mile or two of bush. Eventually we were successful, and a short journey brought us down to the edge of the lake. It was towards evening and we decided to camp, this consisting of sleeping under a starry, cloudless sky. Two other parties had arrived, and pleasant interchange of experiences soon passed the remaining hour or two of light till retiring time. Lake M'Kenzie with its beautiful setting is one of the most delightful points on this trip, and not the least interesting thing about it is that it has an underground outlet. Our third day was occupied with going from M'Kenzie to Lake Howden, our base. This was a comparatively short journey, continuing up the Hollyford Valley mostly through bush. The Erland Falls are passed about an hour before Howden is reached and are awe inspiring. Their water drops many hundreds of feet over a sheer granite face, practically on to the track, and one is cooled by the fine spray they send off. During and after a heavy rain they are tremendous and sometimes cannot be passed. The Howden hut is admirably situated, Beside it is the tiny but beautiful Lake Howden, with bush everywhere around. From the hut radiate a number of good tracks, well used by trampers. Two tracks can be taken to Lake. Wakatipu—that over which we had just come (via Harris Saddle and the Routeburn) and the one down the Greenstone to Elfin Bay. Another track leads down the Lower Hollyford, while yet another leads in under an hour’s walk to the Eglinton road at a point called the Divide, which separates the head of the Eglinton Valley from the Hollyford. A fifth track loads up behind the hut to the Key Summit on the Livingstone Range, from which magnificent views in all directions can be obtained—the Upper Hollyford with beautiful Mount Christina and Lake Marian; the Lower Hollyford Valley; the Eglinton and Lakes Fergus, Gunn and Lauehie; the Greenstone and Lakes Howden and M'Kellar; the Ailsa Mountains and the peaks above Lake M'Kenzie. To reach Key Summit is a short tramp within the range of the many who come by car up the Eglinton Valley, hut some must miss it through ignorance of its existence. The Howden hut. being where it is, is never empty in the season, and, although built to accommodate some 18 or 20, it sheltered 35 on our first night there, one party from Invercargill numbering 23. The Tourist Department could do much, however, to improve the amenities of this hut. At present it has nothing but its four walls and its bunks. At one time, I understand, it was well stocked with blankets and cooking gear, and possessed a first aid chest.

While at Howden we had the good fortune to meet Mr D. Gunn, who runs cattle at Martin’s Bay and is the only resident there. His predecessors were the well-known M'Kenzie brothers, pioneers of this district. Mr Gunn was returning after having been out on holiday for Christmas and New Year and very kindly invited us to come down with him to the coast, promising to

show us over bis country, which extends up the coast to Big Bay and into the Pyke Valley. This was too good an opportunity to be missed, and accordingly we set out with him and his man down the Hollyford Valley, a distance of some 50 miles. Horses were used, as provisions were being packed to the liay. The journey down the Hollyford is one of the finest that can be imagined. The Lower Hollyford Valley is comparatively narrow, its steep, bush-clad slopes rising up from the river to mountain tops towering above. The track is rough, and, strictly speaking, is fit only for a horse journey. If it is to be covered on foot, the right-hand side of the Hollyford is followed all the way down, but, when horses are used, some difficult bluffs can be avoided by the Hollyford being forded at certain places. This is what we did, and it added interest and even excitement to the journey. We did daily laps of about six miles, which are roughly the distance separating Mr Gunn’s huts. The first day out took us to Headman’s hut, across the Hollyford. Some moa bones that were once discovered here were at first believed to be part of a human skeleton, hence the name Headman’s. There is a nasty bluff on the right-hand side to be negotiated by the hiker, but this was avoided by our fording the river. Our second day took us first of all to Mid hut, a county hut in a disgraceful state of unrepair and practically unfit for human habitation, although it has to be used on occasions by trampers seeking shelter. Another six miles took us to Hidden Falls Creek, where there is a good hut owned by Mr Gunn. The roar of the falls can be heard from the hut, and a 10-miriute walk takes one to right under the falls, which tumble down a narrow cleft in the hillside, sending up spray which on a sunny day provides a beautiful rainbow. The next morning was spent in shoeing horses, and a start was made in the afternoon for the Pyke hut, about six miles away. Immediately one leaves, Hidden Falls Creek is forded. This can be tricky in or after wet weather, as the creek becomes a raging river, and often cannot be negotiated at all. But there is always the satisfaction of knowing that such creeks and rivers quickly go down when the weather clears. Homer’s Saddle was crossed, and from near the top of it a magnificent view of Mouht Tutoko was obtained. The trip for that day was ended when we reached the Pyke hut, which is on the banks of the Pyke Creek about a mile above its juxiction with the Hollyford. The Pyke is called a creek, but in reality it is a river of no mean proportions, draining, as it does, the extensive Pyke Valley and being the outlet for Lakes VVilmot and Alabaster. The Pyke has a chair across it near the hut, but we crossed by boat next morning, taking the stores aboard and swimming the horses behind in three trips. Then the business of saddling up again and arranging the packs, and on to the head of Lake M'Kcrrow, where there is a county hut. A halt was made for the night, and next day, while Mr Gunn and his man took the horses round the lake, we rowed 'down Lake M’Kerrow with the stores. M‘Kerrow is perhaps the most beautiful of all the lakes we saw. It is 11 miles long and one to two miles wide, with dense bush to the water’s edge. Evidence seems to point to its having been a sound at one time, but now the Hollyford flows from its extremity through some three miles of bush flat and sandhills to the sea. This portion of the river is very beautiful indeed, not unlike the Avon on a grand scale or perhaps the Wanganui. Mr Gunn’s residence is about a mile up from the river’s mouth on the right bank. On arriving there we found two prospectors who had come from Glenorchy, via the Uouteburn and Harris Saddle. Their food had been ruined

by water, and they had been living mostly on eels for two or three days. They were, therefore, very glad to sea us, and our party was increased to six. We had no sooner become entrenched at Martin’s Busk than the rain came, and continued with scarcely a break for 10 days. In the Hollyford _ Valley , there were over 50 inches of rain in the first three weeks of January.-. The effect was fully seen at Martin’s Bay, where the river rose 10 feet outside our hut. Two more feet and we would have been floating away! As it was, we were practically on an island, there being a backwater of the fiver on either side, a new creek behind, and the river in front. Hence our plans for going up the coast had to he abandoned. We had a few fishing expeditions; a night was spent in flounder spearing, while an celing trip produced 15 fat, greasy eels in about as many minutes. A walk down the coast'for a ’mile or two in the direction of Milford was another excursion. Further down is Madagscar, where there are two lone prospectors working. In the early days some good gold was obtained here. As soon as the weather showed signs of clearing we said good-bye to Martin’s Bay, its two lonely residents, and its many million sandflies, and set off on the long trek back to Howden, This was a different proposition now. No horses, but heavy going along tracks that were for the most part bog after the long rain. In places the Hollyford had washed away the track altogether, and that meant scrambling up round bluffs in the dense bush. At other times it was a case, of stripping off and wading up to the armpits with packs on our heads. One spot, Eel Creek, had become a lake, and we could not cross it at the usual place. Fighting our way up the steep sides of this creek, we eventually found a fallen tree by which we crossed the deepest part and then waded in bog up to our hips for a mile or so. But we considered all this as an experience to look back upon, and kept an even temper. Three and a-half days brought us back to Howden. It had taken five to go down to Martin’s Bay, but then we had taken our time. Our last morning’s breakfast was reduced to a cup of tea, but we made up for it at Howden with a dinner that would have done credit to any hotel menu. Determined to see as much of the country as possible in the time at our disposal, we set off again with two people we had met on arrival at Howden, this time for the Upper Hollyford, A walk on a good track brought us in under an hour to the present terminus of the Eglinton Valley road at the Divide. From here we turned into the Upper Hollyford . Valley, following the road which is in course of construction. This was a most interesting part of the journey. First of all we passed gangs metalling the formed road; others-were blasting away rocky bluffs; further on the bushmen were clearing a track through the forest for the road, and away in advance was the survey camp, where the chief engineer, Mr J. fi. Christie, was met. The distance to the Homer hut is about nine miles and always close alongside is the Hollyford, its gorgeous blue waters broken every now and again by fierce rapids. We were privileged to get splendid views of Mount Talbot, the Homer and Gertrude Saddles, and the slopes of Mofint Christina and Crosscut. Beyond Monkey; Creek, which is going to supply the power for the lighting of the proposed tunnel under the Homer, a fine silhouette of a lion couchant on the lower slopes of Mount Christina is seen. The Homer hut was our objective and here we spent the night. During it, three inches of rain fell, and a dry riverbed outside the hut became by morning a roaring torrent. Xo scarcity of water in this country! Wc had intended to climb the Gertrude

Saddle and look on Milford Sound, but the mist was low down and we abandoned what might have been a risky project and returned down the valley. On reaching the road, wo were for* tUnate to fall in with an unexpected trip by car down the beautiful Eglinton Valley through the Sounds National Park. We returned to Howden from To Anau early next morning. The valley was alive with sunlight, and we saw at its beat this fine road through the birch forest with its park-like clearings here and there. Howden was reached for lunch, packing was completed, and we set off on the last lap down the Greenstone Valley homewards. The Greenstone is comparatively easy going and delightfully pretty. Half-way down is Shaw’s hut (called by Miss Pamela Bourne “the Rat’s Nest”), arid here we stayed with two deer stalkers for the night. Edgar’s hut was made for lunch next'day, and the rest of the journey down the Greenstone, past Here Lake and to Elfin Bay by evening. The holiday was now over except for a trip to Glenorchy next day, and up to Paradise and Diamond Lake. But I am afraid we had had our feast of scenery, and these last places were not as fully appreciated as they might have been. We had seen the country which we had traversed under all conditions of weather. It is a country as yet untouched by man, full of the wonders of Nature. People little realise what grandeur lies at their back doors, and all who have been to these parts look forward in keen anticipation to their next trip. The fascination is undeniable, and here can be found the best tonic for a tired or jaded mind and body. '