THE GARDEN.

Otago Daily Times, Issue 19952, 20 November 1926, Page 3

THE GARDEN.

WORK FOB THE WEEK

Notes bt D. Tas nock, f.r.h.s. Continue to pot up the later struck cuttings of chrysanthemums, to pot on the largo flowered kinds to six-inch pots, making the soil reasonably firm, and put the earlier-rooted batch of single and decorative varieties direct into . their flowering pots or tins. They do quite well in tins, provided openings aro made both in the bottom and sides of them for drainage, and three plants are placed in each. These should have been pinched some time ago, and will now bo breaking or throwing up two or three branches from the buds just below whore the stem was cut off. By taking up at least two sterns from each plant, with three plants in a tin, wo get six or nine shoots, each producing a spray of from three to five blooms, making nice plants for furnishing the greenhouse or providing cut flowers at a time when they aro very scarce. After potting, stand the plants back in the frames, give one good watering, and afterwards water carefully until the young roots occupy the new soil. Spray overhead both night and morning, and keep the sashes on at night for a week or more. It is also advisable to shade them from strong sunshine for a, week at least. Continue to pot the tuberous begonias, to sow seeds oi cinerarias, primulas, and hardy biennials, such <ts Canterbury bells, myosotis of various kinds, double daisies and violas. Both calceolarias and_ schizanthus are making a good display in the greenhouse, and though it is possible to obtain good varieties from the seedsmen, it is often desirable to save seed from our own plants, and with this end in view some of the best varieties should bo pollenated. Mark the plants which are intended to ripen seed, and keep them a little drier than the rest. Collect the seed capsules when fully developed, but before they burst, liberate their seed, and put them into a paper bag to complete their ripen ing process. . . ~ . iTydntngcas wnch have formed their flower buds can receive a little weak liquid manure once a week, and gloxinias should also receive a little liquid stimulant. Fuchsias make excellent chmbers growing on the roof of the greenhouse, nut unless they ere thinned out a bit they will shade the plants underneath too much. Other climbers will also require to be thinned out a hit and their shoots prevented from twining round their supports. Tomatoes planted put in borders or in tins under glass will bo growing away quickly now, and all side shoots should be pinched out from time to time, the main stem being tied up to its support. Give plenty of air on warm, sunny days, water when necessary, but do not splash it about on the paths or borders, and try to maintain a dry, warm rrowing atmosphere. THE FLOWER GARDEN. This is a very busy time in the flower garden. Both p'lants and weeds are growing rapidly, lawns require constant attention and it is now time for all the summer and autumn flowering bedding plants to j v , put out in their permanent positions. All herbaceous plants, such as perennial phlox, Michaelmas daisies, and delphiniums require a little thinning out, and then they must be staked. It is desirable to jjive all plants support at an early stage

of their growth, for when the stems fall down or Become twisted it is _ difficult to get them to grow upright again. Should there be an objection to the large, prominent stakes being put in nt present, smaller temporary ones can be used in the meantime, and the stronger and taller ones provided later on. Keep the surface soil of all the beds and borders scuffled up from time to time. Dahlias, salvias, tuberous begonias, and cannas can bo planted out with safety now. We are not likely to have any more frost, and weather conditions generally have been very favourable for planting out. The rock garden is at its brightest and most interesting stage at present. The early spring flowering kinds are still showing colour, and the dianthus, primulas, saxifragas, and ramondias arc at their best. It is necessary to keep weeds under control, to stir up all surface sod not covered with plants, and to prevent the stronger and more rampant kinds from smothering up the delicate and choice ones. Rhododendrons are certainly flowering better this season than they have for some years, and the cool, moist weather ha? enabled the flowers to last well. The most outstanding varieties in the gardens at the present time are Pink Pearl, White Pearl, and Charles Lawson. Columbines (Aquilegias).-—The various species and varieties of aquilegias are very useful, hardy plants, both for furnishing the hardy flower border or for providing cut flowers at a time when good decorative cut flowers are scarce. Some are quite dwarf, and arc suitable for the rock garden; others grow to a height of from 2ft to 4ft. They are true perennials, but are better when now plants are raised from seed every two or three years. A. elandulosa is a beautiful plant with a tufted habit and fine blue flowers with tips of petals creamy white. It is a native of the Altai mountains, and it likes cool, moist conditions and a good deep sandy loam, well drained. A. chrysantha (Golden Columbine) is a strong growing perennial with golden ye low flowers, sometimes growing to a height or 4tt. it comes true from seed, and will thrive m heavy, stiff loam. _ , A. Coorulea (Rocky Mountain Columbine). —This is a beautiful species, with slender, green-tipped spurs, which have a tendency to twist round one another, it grows to a height of 12in to loin. _ is quite hardy, but not a good perennial, and it is better to treat it as a biennial and to raise a number of plants each year. It can be planted on the rock garden or near the front of the mixed or herbaceous border. , . , A. Vulgaris (Common Columbine).— This is a strong-growing, very robust plant quite suitable for the mixed border, but one which will thrive in the more or less wild part of the garden along with foxgloves and hardy geraniums. Its spurs are not long, and the range of colours is limited, but it is an old-fashioned plant, and very hardy. . , , , . , A. Skinnen (Skinners Columbine). This is a very distinct plant the sepals being greenish, the petals small and yellow, and the spurs, which are 2in long, arc bright orange-red. It is a native ot Gautemala, but is quite hardy here. A alnina is a dwarf species from the Alps of Switzerland. It grows about a foot high, has soft blue r blue and lute flowers, and is suitable for planting in the front of the mixed border, or on the rock garden. The most useful and decorative of all the columbines are the long-spurred hybrids. These have a delicate and refined beauty, and can be had in pure white, blue, and pink shades, and crimson and gold. From a reliable strain we can get a wonderful variety from seed. If seeds of aquilegias are sown now and grown on in a similar way to bweet Williams of wallflowers, we will have good strong plants which will flower at this time next year. , . . Anemones have been very good, but will soon be past their best. Seeds develop readily, and if the heads are collected and put into a paper bag and hung up in a cool, airy place, they will soon ripen. To enable them to be separated readily they are mixed with an equal quantity of sand, and then sown on a well-drained bed or border whore the plants can remain until they flower. They can also' be sown in boxes and afterwards pricked out into beds. THE VEGETABLE AND FRUIT GARDEN.

All vegetable crops are now making rapid growth, and thinning will require attention. It is also necessary to earth up potatoes, cabbage, and cauliflower, to stake peas and beans, and to keep the sod stirred and scuffle hoed among the growing crops. Though we are not likely to have any disease on the very early potatoes, the second early and main crop kinds arc liable to be attacked, and as spraying is neither very laborious nor expensive, it is well worth doing. _ Bordeaux Mixture (summer formula) is still the most satisfactory spray, and, though this can be obtained’ in a prepared state, it is better when mixed fresh before applying. It is not difficult to prepare Take 41b of sulphate of copper, put it in a piece of scrim and suspend it in a vessel containing 20 gallons of water. Slake 4lb of lime in a little water, first forming a paste, and then make up to 20 gallons. Strain the milk of lime into the barrel containing the sulphate of copper and stir well while it is being poured in. If the mixture is properly made, the blade of a knife held in the solution for a minute be unchanged; if it is coated with copper more lime should be added, and tbe experiment repeated until no copper adheres to the blade. Wooden vessels arc best for preparing this mixture in, and as it soon deteriorates it should be used

as soon as possible after mixing. When spraying, be careful to moisten the under surface, of the leaves as _ well as the upper, and should heavy rain fall shortly after spraying it is advisable to repeat it when weather conditions are favourable. Spraying or watering cabbage and cauliflower and turnips is considered to keep club root more or less in check. Make sowings of cabbage, savoys, and other winter greens to provide plants ready to put out after the early potatoes are dug; make sowings of lettuce, radish, turnips, beans, and peas to provide a succession, and plant out tomatoes, vegetable marrows, and ridge cucumbers.

ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS. “H. F.,” Christchurch. —Gas is certainly not good for house plants, but the aspidistra is very hardy and seldom affected. As a rule, the old leaves become disfigured by the spring, but new ones will be springing up from the base now. Cut away the affected parts, turn your plant out of the pot, and if the drainage is clogged up renew it. Prick out some of the surface soil and replace with good turfy loam, to which has been added a little Clay’s Fertiliser or outer suitable concentrated plant food. If potbound, put into a larger pot, or divide up into three if new plants are desired. “R. T.,” Hereford street. —By fog, I presume you mean Yorkshire Fog or Meadow Soft Grass, Holcus lanatus. You will either have to weed it out or slash the tufty plants across the crown with a knife. Frequent rolling and mowing has a tendency to kill out all soft grasses and weeds.

“ Student,” Dunedin.—The plant sent is a species of wattle, and the common name of Embothrium coccineum is Chilian Fire Bush.