WOMAN'S WORLD.

Oamaru Mail, Volume XXXIX, Issue 10957, 23 December 1911, Page 4 (Supplement)

WOMAN'S WORLD.

The Ruling Spirit. Sitting at a cafe in Paris I heard a woman's idea of war, says a writer in Black and White. An affectionate young couple were audaciously making love over some Bavaroise an ehocolat. The girl was telling "nion chore" all manner of pretty things, that ran something like this:—"What a pity there will be no war .after all. You would have been wounded, and I should have gone out to nurse you in such a pretty costume d'infirmiere!" Crowing Girls' Wardrobes. The wardrobe of the girl at the betwixt and between age is often one of the most difficult problems the mother has to solve. Girls of this age are apt to be so notional and inclined to wish for more frocks than the household economics will permit. They will throw aside perfectly good and unworn garments because some ill-advised friend has spoken slightingly of them. They soon tire of their • frocks, too, and besides all this, they have a habit of growing so unreasonably-fast that it is quite an expense to keep pace with their real and fancied needs. Overdressing. At first consideration overdressing might seem nothing more than a display of ignorance and bad taste by a woman who does not realise herself and her appearance. It is more than that. It induces extravagance and spendthrift habits. The woman who rushes about business streets gowned in handsome laces and silks topped with a millinery confection of generous proportions, often advertises herself as one who does not know the meaning of appropriate gowning. The tramcar or any other public conveyance is not quite the place tor gowns or wraps which, by their appearance, belong to one who has a private carriage. Beautiful Hands. A perfect hand, according to the long-established rule based upon the Greek sculptured ideal figures, should measure seven inches from the wrist to the end of the second finger, but by the same criterion a hand which is classic in its shape and is in true proportion to the rest of the figure may be also given the palm of .perfection. However, the painter or sculptor working to produce an "ideal" figure, with a model whose hand was other than seven inches, however true in proportion and form, would probably so scale the whole figure as to bring, the hand to the highest sought measurement of perfection. Arching of the ! nails adds to the beauty of the hands, and this arching should increase from the index finger to the little finger, and the nails should be narrow and lengthwise straight. A Fine Fencer.

The late Lady Colin Campbell had the reputation of being one of the finest lady fencers in the country. "I strongly recommend fencing for ladies," she once said; "indeed, of all exercises I consider it far and-away the finest. It is the one sport in which women can compete on something like equal terms with men. You see, it doesn't demand an enormous amount of strength; besides which, it develops the muscles all over the body without unduly developing any one part. Fencing gives a carriage and walk that I don't think any other kind of exercise does. It- is good both for the eye and the brain, and it quickens tho reasoning powers. In addition to all this you can fence in all weathers —you are not the slave of the watering-pot, as you are with other sports. It is a great, pity that women do not take to it.".

The German Houseboy in America. Hans the houseboy, dressed in his garb of washable blue linen, is a figure .so familiar to travellers in Germany that they will not be surprised to loam that America has readily adopted him. A solution of the domestic problem has been attempted in certain districts by

employing those men who, often accompanied by wife, ami even children, sail for the new country, ready and willing to undertake any duties that come their way. Housekeepers eagerly engage a. newlv-arrived German couple, for, while the man has a thorough knowledge or the duties of housemaid, as well as valet and house porter, the wife is usually an excellent cook. She is also callable of doing the family marketing and buving to good advantage. Simplification of the whole domestic system lias made rapid strides in America. Cleanlv linen clothes for servants have been at once instituted by ladies who are ever on the outlook for improvement of what is undoubtedly a complicated and difficult problem. Where »he average waiter or house-servant wears old black clothes in England, it might even be suggested that the linen of the German, or the Continental domestic in general, could with profit be introduced. American ladies who have substituted the German houseboy for a staff of Chinamen, find them so satisfactory that they earnestly hope that their simple and cleanly ways will not be spoiled by the national tendency to extravagant and luxurious living.

Not in Want of a Pocket, The lack of pockets is a subject for congratulation, since women find that each season brings something more elegant than the preceding one in the handbag essential to their comfort. The new bags show that the designers of the beautiful embroideries and coloring find their inspiration at French sources. For use at the theatre, in the ballroom, or as a finish to an elaborate toilette, bags are large, but not exaggerated. Gold tissue. appliqued to velvet or silk with a neat pattern outlined in platinum sequins and metallic thread is the latest fancy in this direction, and black velvet embroidered with dull metal beads is another form of the same idea. The shape of the ornamental handbag has been altered con.siderablv within the last few weeks, and depth instead of width is a desirable feature. Those who are clever enough to make their own bags pay a good deal of attention to the metal mounts or clasps, which are the essential finishing touch, and unless one is skilled in the craft of beaten metal this has to be purchased. Repousse copper, pewter, or gunmetal mounts are in. admirable taste, -and sometimes quite inexpensive copies of some antique design are to be picked up. Bagmakers should bear in mind that all mounts should be long at the sides, in order that the mouth of the bag will open wide.

The Truosseau. When our mothers and grandmothers set about trousseau-making, they did it with the notion of laying in a srtock of clothes that would- last for years. They bought fine linen and; longcloth of durable quality, and trimmed it with lace and embroidery of their own manufacture. In many a home to-day "mother's wedding petticoat" still survives, with its flounces and insertions of hand-made pierced work. Fine muslin was not then considered suitable for underwear, and the truth' of this is borne out by the bride of yesterday, who regards with rueful glances what remains of her elaborate lingerie after it has been in wear for even six months. The soft handkerchief muslin that is made up into highly-ornamented garments is not strong enough to hold the heavy embroidery and Ince with which it is superimposed. After a few visits to the laundry the unmendable little gaps begin to show, and in a very short time a new supply is necessary. Yet no bride of to-day will look at longcloth no matter how fine the quality, and even mndapolam is considered too heavy for any but the most utilitarian garments. The new mode of hand-sew-ing and embroidering the muslin itself lias the advantage of making the clothes a little more lasting than those which are machine-made and trimmed; but. in any case, there is not much chance that the girls of the coming generations will be able to produce portions of "grandmother's trousseau," as we are so often | able to do to-day. '

Princess Zita of Parma. The trousseau prepared for Princess Zita of Parma, who was married lately to the Archduke Ferdinand, heir to the Austrian throne, is described as being tvpical of Viennese taste and sk.ll Man\ of her gowns were ornamented with lace that'ifMiicludecl among the family treasures of the House of Braganza, but ■apart from the addition to their priceless adornment. her gowns were triumphs of the dressmaker's art. tier woddin<' gown was stilt with silver embroidery, and on this was draped rare antique lace. The full tram was ornamented, with th« lily—symbol of the House of Bourbon— wrought m metaithreads At the reception held on the wedding eve the Princess wore a -satin "•own of delicate rose shades. Jhe sKirt satin with a deep flounce of rare rose point lace at the foot. The upper part was veiled with a ninon tunic, and the bodice was rose pink ninon. On almost everv s/own instanced, as showing the perfection of the .d'ressmarker's art, the tunic appears. A ball gown of pale blue had the complete tunic and the bodice of pearl embroidery and a folded belt holding the closely-fitting skirt. The bride, who will be an Empress, had, as a matter of course, a. magnificent supply of fur coats and fur sets, and among the minor requirements were a dozen" or so of English shirt blouses, a blue serge swimming suit with wool embroidery", and a black silk one with elaborate lace insertions.

Unlucky Opals. The idea that opals were unlucky is thought by many to be on account of the unfortunate part Sir Walter Scottassigned; to it in his "Anne of Geierstein." The opal is also associated with misfortunte by Russians of both sexes, who, should-they chance to see an opal amongst the goods displayed for purchase, will buy nothing more that day, and it is a, curious fact that the Japa? nese. being under the sign that this stone- belongs to, should' be the nation to bring sucli ill-luck to the Russians during the disastrous'war between these two. The Romans of old loved the opal so well that they bestowed upon it the name of "lovely youth." It never occurred to them that this was a gem which carried ill-luck to its possessor. In the Middle Ages there were not wanting men. who shared' the Romans' weakness, for opals did not lose their popularity as time went on. Each century brought its own joys and sorrows, luck and ill-luck, to the ..human race; and each age brought its fashions in jewellery as in clothing, but the opal remained high in favor and entered largely into this adornment of both sexes.

RECiPES AND HINTS. : Lamb's Liver and Onions. —-Required: fib lamb's liver, a tablespoonful butter, 2 large onions, salt and pepper to taste. Slice the onions nicely, place the butter into the frying-pan, add the onions. When brown, take the liver, which you have cut into slices half an inch thick, season with pepper and salt, and lay on the onions. Stir thoroughly. Cover and let it fry for three or four minutes, then turn over. Serve the liver on a hot dish with rashers of-fried bacon and the onions piled in the middle. Make a little thick pan sauce, color it to a good brown, and pour round the dish.

Lamb's Head Pie.—Required: 1 lamb's head, a piece of steak, two eggs, a little bacon, pepper and .salt, a little mace, good short paste. This'is a very good dish, and the bones from it are a valuable addition to the stock-pot. First wash the lamb's head, soak it thoroughly and then parboil. When cold take all the meat from it and arrange in a piedish. Add the pieces of cut steak cut small and 2 or 3 slices of bacon, the hard-boiled eggs sliced, and seasonings. Pour over a little of the liquor in which the head was boiled, cover with'good short paste, and bake slowly for two hours after the pastry is cooked. Saddle of Lamb.—Required: A plump saddle of lamb, small potatoes, green peas, mint sauce. Choose a nice plump saddle of lamb, trim the joint, neatly cover it with buttered paper, and roast

before a clear fire. Baste frequently and do not allow the paper to get the least burnt or it will spoil the flavor of the meat (remove it 20 minutes before serving) lastly sprinkle the joint with fine salt, carefnlly free the gravy from fat, and nour it round the joint. Serve with saute potatoes and green peas. The latter should he boiled will a sprig of mint. Mint sauce should bo sent to table in a tureen.

Cassolettes Do. Fromage Grate loz Grnvere cheese and loz Parmesan cheese. Mix together, adding salt and cayenne pepper. Beat 2 eggs just sufficiently to mix the whites and the yolks, stir in 1 gill cream. Then add the cheese, mixing all well together. Butter some fireproof ramekin cases, put in the cheese, "and hake in a slow oven until they arc quite set and of a light brown color.

Cinnamon Cream Roll. —-loz castor sugar, 3oz flour, lioz butter (melted), 1 teaspoouful ground cinnamon, 4 eggs, cinnamon cream, I- pint custard. Sift the flour and ground cinnamon on to a piece of paper; put the eggs into a basin and whisk for 5 minutes; add the castor sugar, and whisk again for 5 minutes. "Put the basin over a saucepan of boiling water, and whisk for 10 minutes; stir in lightly the flour, ground cinnamon, and melted butter. Pour the mixture on to a baking sheet lined with greased paper, and bake in a quick over over 7 minutes. Turn the cake.

"Extra" Strawberry Shortcake. — Bake a delicate sponge cake in a circle mould. Fill the centre with large sweetened berries and put whipped cream all round the edge. Or the circle opening may be filled with strawberry ice cream. A plain vanilla cream is first made, then a quart of berries are crushed, sweetened and heated, ad when the cream is half frozen they are stirred in. Place fresh berries around cake.

Strawberry Junket.—Allow one quart of new milk to become lukewarm on the back of the range, then pour it into a glass dish, sweeten to taste, and flavor delicately with vanila. Add, stirring slightly one rennet tablet or threefourths of a tablespoon of liquid rennet. Then set it away to cool, being careful not to jar it. Just before serving fill sherbet glass with alternate spoonfuls of the junket and sliced sweetened strawberries. Heap whipped cream on top and put one fine large berry dusted with granulated sugar iii the centre. Serve with almond or any delicate cake. After frying onions pour a little vinegar into the frying-pan, let it get hot, and it will remove all smell fro,m the pan. A pad of very thick, paper laid over the edge of each step under the carpet will prevent it from wearing, and double the lease of its life.

To keep mice away, scatter small pieces of camphor in your cupboards and drawers. They greatly dislike the smell of it.-

To remove grease from a stove try "this plan: Dip a cloth in dry soot and rub this well over the greasy parts, then apply the blaeklead, and the spots will at once disappear. When black kid gloves become rusty at the finger-ends they may be restored by adding a few drops of black ink to a tablespoonful of olive-oil and applying it with a camel's hair brush.

"When cooking a joint of mutton, ten minutes before putting it into the oven spread a little fat over the joint, then dredge it with flour. Mutton treated in this way- will turn out juicy and tender.

Tumblers that have contained milk should be rinsed in cold water before being washed in warm. Putting the milky glass into hot water will have the effect of clouding it permanently. Silver in daily use may be kept very bright if allowed to soak in strong borax water for four or live hours occasionally. The water should be perfectly boiled when it is poured over the plate. Baking soda gives instant relief to a burn or a scald. Applied either wet or dry to the burned part immediately, the sense of relief is magical. It seems to withdraw the heat, and with it the pain.