PICTURESQUE NEW ZEALAND.

New Zealand Mail, Issue 1665, 27 January 1904, Page 72 (Supplement)

PICTURESQUE NEW ZEALAND.

AN AMERIOAN’s iMjpitESSIONS. UNIQUE AND UNPARALLELED. PROSPECTS OF TOURIST TRAFFIC. >- (By .T. A. Grady, Traffic Manager, V ' Oceanic S.S. Coiffpany.) • I have juslt finished visiting Now Zea- / land’s wonderful scenic attractions, having started at Auckland nearly four months ago, and) finishing with a v.sit to Stewart’s Island on Wednesday last. After visiting Auckland' anfd its beautifjal surroundings, I went direct to Rotorua, where I spent a fortnight. I may’say that I was pretty well run down on coming to New Zealand, Having visited nearly every hole and corner of Australia, jand being royally entertained by its good people, I was indeed a good subject for Rotorua's wonderful waters. However, it did not take the Aix Massage- and the Priest’s Bath long to pat me right, and then, for the sights. At. this point I was joined by our Mr Sproul, passenger agent of our line a.t Auckland. We visited everything of interest in and about Rotorua, being particularly impressed with its Maori life, its thermal wonders, and its possibilities for becoming one of the world’s resorts for tourists and invalids. Wo also observed with keen interest the judicious measures which the Govern- ■ ment is taking in the mattter of putting this wonderfully attractive place into shape for the reception of those fortunate enough to pay it a visit. * • From Rotorua we went to Waimangu, via Wairoa and Lakes Tarawera a.ndl . Rotomahana. While doing this, we had an excellent view of Mt. Tarawera and its famous era tor. also tlio bluo a.nd green lakes and the landmarks of the extinct village of Wairoa, which was destroyed by the Tarawera eruption in 1886. In crossing Lake Rotomahana we were particularly impressed with the gjrjucsomo aspect as well as being much concerned in being carried in a boat over boiling water. I shall never forget > my first glimpse of the great Waimangu geyser with its acre and a quarter of boiling mud.

I think the combination of Tarawera, its crater, Lake Rotomahana and tlhe Waimangu geyser, which can be taken in with a glance from a point near the upper; shelter shed, is the most aweinspiring of all worldly s’gjhts- We have the grand Canon of the Colorado in ’Arizona 200 miles long and 18 miles wide, where one can go to its rim and look on to its first landing att a vertioal depth of a mile, wherein groves cf trees averaging sixteen feet in height look like patches of grass to the naked eye, and then one can go below and through the s>ame groves to a point where you can see ’the grand) old Colorado rushing with almost human madness through a palisrde of polished granite at another depth of 1400 feet. This is a sight which is now attracting people from all parts* of the civilised would. But with all that, the above combination stands in-a class fey itself, inasmuch as that, unlike the Grand Canon, it has no beautifully coloured rock formation, mottled with" beautiful! shrubs, but on the other hand, it stands before you (as it were) with monumental indifferenoe as to any entertainment other than its own hellish notions.

We were peculiarly fortunate in. having seen the great geyser «it its best, having witnessed two mentionable shots in one day. The firet at 11 a.m., nearly 600 feet, the second about 5 p.m., ovelr 1000 feet taking for its operation the enltire rim of the pool, throwing mud and stones to the height mentionq'l. This feature in itself dheuld serve New Zealand as does the Grand Canon of the United States

Our next move was towarcfe Waiotapu, another place abounding in 'thermal phenomena. It was from this point we • got oust first glimpse a c the lofty snow clad peaks of the Ton gun ro grctup, Ton- ; gariro, Ngaurohoe, Ruapehu, seventy odd miles away and in direct line with our proposed route. Ngaurohoe looked particularly interesting, wildh its cone shaped, snowy Belching foi'th clouds of steam, the Champagne Pool, Sulphur‘“Falls, Mud Craters, Primrose ' Falls/ Alum Cliffs and Pretty Lake were objects of great- interest while visiting this/place. . - “ . a Waimkei came next,in line. Like' : Wnibbapu, it also has its/ share .of. thermal'mat tor. Of course/ wo saw everything there was to be Sgen. in fact, mat- - ter too numerous to mention here, .as it ’is not the intention of trie writer to givo an elaborate account of whalb he has seed Ho would suggest that those ;;ourioiis; as.to ; detail should consult Gov- • ornment guides, wherein they will fin New Zealand's scenic attractions very ably pourtrayed. I would state, how- / oyer, that it' was at this place I. took my first asto the formatron o’, bhoe' beautiful: Pink Terraces; now /extinct, there being similar formation ; ;here, qnly of a mtuch lesser degree. _ ; •/£:Our >, to ,-Pipirilci, through Taupo : and across Lake; Taupo, through Tokaano *and Wairura; was full •*£ .in* tercst, the drive through the • be. r.t.ful charming, hav ng ;/bo^, nothing like it in my-country. We iiamoty 1 in ■'the moirnir.g-iby the upper

reaches of the Wanganjui river. Well may the New Zealanders claim this beautiful river as being the Rhine of Australasia: How beautifully charming are its fera-covered walls, coupled with Maori life and canoeing,- which lend to its further charm.

Our stay at Wanganui was coupled with both business and pleasure, inasmuch as we have an agent there, who has the interests cf New Zetland and the Oceanic Steamship Company at heart. This place should be considered one of the important gateways for tciurirt traffic, anyl I would suggest that the Government look weld to its support. Our next move was t-o Palmerston North, where we found substantial evidence of agricultural industry. From there we. visited the Hawke’s Bay district, taking in en, route that beajutiful farming and wool-growing country. Whilo doing this, it struck mo very forcibly that a groat deal! of this section could be turned to fruit-growing, conditions being similar to portions of California. We were very much pleased with Napier, so prettily situated and with such climatic conditions as would invite the most exacting.

Wellington was oar next place of .call ‘■'My word,” as you people say, what a busy place for its size. We stopped a week, and were shown, every attention by its citizens, cur agents. Bannatyno and Company, being especially polite. This city has everything from a Turkish bath to the best system in the world oi handling cargo by hydraulic pressure. While here I had the pleasure of meeting many of your Government officials, as well as visiting your Tourist Department, which I found very interesting indeed.

We next called at Nelson, seeing the famous fislh, Pelorus Jack, en route. He came to the prow cf our steamer eakly in the morning, and after visiting us for a few minutes, during which time ho nibbed himself against the ship’s side, which he seemed to enjoy immensely, finally left -us tc wonder at his remarkable manoeuvres. Nelson is indeed a beautiful place, and a drive such as we had, round iits suburbs, is a treat that visitors should not mass.

Our next move was taking train to Motupiko, where we changed for coach service, which took us to Longford, where we stopped overnight. The next day we coached through the Bulller Gorge to Westport. This day brought us the first rain since leaving Rotorua. It came, however, as a blessing in disguise, inasmuch as it was a mast charming acquisition to that which (in my opinion) barring my experience in the Clinton Valley, is the most beautiful foliage I have ever seen. Fancy, if you can, driving for miles along a grand river with precipitous cliffs'densely overgrown with trees, shrubs and ferns, trec<3 oovered with the most beautiful mess, variegate)'! in colouring, and clanging to its victims with leech-like tenacity. Then picture this beautiful combination covered with drops of rain, glowing with diamond-like brilliancy under the rays of the sun. . Such a scene is far beyond the efforts cf tongue, pen, or brush. Wo stopped overnight at Westport, and next morning took coach to iteerton, where we spent the night. In doing this, wo had* another opportunity of seeing the grand Buller, as well as the gold dredging which is being done to some extent along its course. Wo took train from Reefton to Otira, where we changed for coach. The ride through the Gorge was marked with great interest, inasmuch as it afforded us something which was entirely different from anything we had yet seen, and had I not visited the Glinton Valley and* Milford Sounds I should feet inclined to dwell at length on this grand piece of nature’s work. The drtvo from Bealey to Springfield, whero we took train to Christchurch, was quite interesting. It was while going from Springfield to Christchurch that I first became inbued with a feeling tliat I should like to spend any time the Lord may allow me over three score aiid ten, on any of the farms I load, seen between the aboveSuch sunshine such air, and such rustic beauty.

We were shown Christchurch's many charming features, our representative, Mr Kinsey (of Kinsey, Barns anti Co.), being a past master at this charming accomplishment, and 1 I may add that I think it would be well for Now Zealand df it- had a few more like him. We next visited ELanmer Springs. I never in all my travel's found sudh a place for rest, .conditions being peculiarly favourable far that sorb of thing, and, indeed, we were loth to leave the place. ’;MOur next movo was towards Mount Cook, by'way of Timaru, Fairlie, Takopu and Pukaki, and owing to il,'.-condition-ed roads after severe winter storms, and our being in advance of the tourist .season, we hai'l to do the forty miles (Pukaki to the Hermitage) in the saddle. Howevdr, we did not mind this, as we were blessed with perfect weather. It was raining when we left Timam, and the drive from Fairlie to Pukaki being done under a cloudedi sky, gave m no opportunity for viewing Mount Cook. However, this was'not to last, as upon my arising at 3.30 an the moirnmg of November 11th, I beheld ail alpine sight which I do not think coukl bo equalled in point ef splendour and bea?uty the ■world over. Fancy whafe-:a sight aike this means. ' -"-V . • • There' I was at the &e*ad of beautHUll

Lake Pukaki, with nothing but myself and the accommodation house to indicate human life, with a cloudless sky, and the sun casting its earliest rays upon the peaks of this alpine wonder. Unobstructed from view, and at a distance of over forty miles, there stood icy Cook and her majestic neighbours taking the early stages of a sun bath. The tinting was most magnificent, and, indeed, the conditions most phenomenal, and I feel that, should I go there a thousand times again, I would come for from witnessing such an extraordinary sight. In fact, I may mention here that I feel blessed in having seen nearly all of New Zealand's wonderful sights under most favourable conditions. However, I have often thought of the picture I must have made on that morning, running bareheaded from hill to hill, and talking to myself while taking in this sight of sights. As I menifcionqd, we had excellent weather in going from Pukaki to the Hermitage, and the pleasing excitement of having Cook in sight very materially relieved us of a pressure which, under ordinary circumstances, would have been very annoying. Forty miles and neither of us having had saddle experience other than that which comes to the ordinary city kiddy, a wooden house and sixteen times around for twopence.

However, we were glad to reach the Hermitage, where we were receivqd with every courtesy at the hands ot ciiiet guide Clark and the caretaker and his family. The day having been very warm, we were kept awake during the night, by the resounding echoes cf glacial avalanches, which very forcibly reminded one of the mouse coming from a battery during a heavy cannonading. Our first day was spent in breaking in, as it were, guide Clark taking us to local points in the Hooker, where we had a bit of experience with the Moraine, as well as the general local situation. The next day, and from that on, for two weeks I was (as I thou thought) persecuted with bryl weather. I say I, because my friend left me here, going on tq the cold lakes, his time being more limited than mine. However, after exercising all sorts of patience I was finally rewarded by having the advantage of a week of most perfect weather, which was used to the following advantage:—Sunday, November 22, guide Clark and self climbed Mt. Scaly, going to a point where we took a magnificent sweeping view of the Mueller glacier, as well as taking in some of its tributaries. It being a perfect day, and with excellent cloud effect, we saw Cook from this direot-ion at its best. As Clark put it, “Mr Grady, you’re luckier than a fat priest,” and looking ta/t it from another standpoint I think I was, because I don’t think a fait priest would have followed us in that climb. However, I was so charmed with my experience of that day that I was as fit as a fiddle for starting in the direction of the Upper Tasman district the next morning. But a little mere about Sealey. In viewing Sefton from the Hermitage one can form no idea of its height, inasmuch as its lower part is obscured by Sealey and other matter. It was not 'until we went to the top or Sealey that I fully realised the magnitude of this beautiful mountain. There sb stood before us whore we could see it from its base to its peaks, and bearing its millions of tons of glacier with as much gra,co and ease as a swan its feathers. One of the best impressions of Cook can bo taken from this point, and I should advise anyone visiting the Mount Cook district to do Sealey first, as it fits one for doing alll the rest. We left the Hermitage on the morning of November 23rd for the Tipper Tasman, taking horses and an extra guide as far as the Ball Hut, where we stopped overnight. At this point the horses aiyl the extra guide retiirned to the Hermitage, leaving Clark and myself alone in our glory. Next day, the 24th, being bright and dear, we made an early start for the Malt Bran Hut, in the Upper Tasman. What a day this was for me! Walking over the great Tasman glacier, eighteen miles long, two miles wide and nine hundred feet deep, with its huge crevasses and its peculiar mouiin formations. On the way wo took in the Ball and Hocbstetrer glaciers as well as lia.vi.ng an excellent view of the whole range of mountains.

On the morning of the 25th, while crossing the Upper Tasman, from the Mai to Bran Hut we rested in tlie centra of an amphitheatre of alpine grandeur which would indeqfl make anything in the Swiss Alps lock very tame. There we stood, taking in the sights of 'this magnificent circle canopied with a sky which can only be seen through this wonderful effect. I assure you that such a sight is beyond theoretical comprehension.

We then went on and cl imbed some ice facings', in wliioh the rope and axe <}ime in play, Clark being the best 1 have ever seen at this. On reaching the summit I was taken through some magnificent ice caves, with picturesque formations and beautiful pdlourings wliioh. like the above, gave us a moist sublime entertainment. The cloud effect in this district is something wonderful. On one occasion we both stood spellbound watohing a cloud which resembled in shape a potoal opbra fan, resembling the finest • kind of filagree, and. its colouring pould be compare wi to that of a most beautiful opal, sit^

H was excited with* admiration, in viewing Cook from Pukaki, you can imagine my feelings while taking in the above combination, and to top the climax I was again reminded of my being luckier than a fat priest. On our reaahing the hut, the guide sent a pigeongram to the Hermitage. In this I enjoyed the novelty (to me) of sending a message to my daughter in America, the message of oourse being transmitted from the pigeon to his Majestys mails at the Hermitage. The nextoday»we spent in returning to Bail Hut, where we put in the night, and the day after that was spent in crossing over to the Hooker, via Ball Pass, over 9000 feet. This climb is somewhat out of the ordinary, but I should advise anybody 'having the Ordinary use of limb to do it inasmuch as it affords one an opportunity of taking in both the Tasman and Hooker distriots, with all their accompanying mountain effects, as well as being coupled with the charming experience of alpine climbing and gllissarding. We reached the Sadt'lle about noon, and after taking in . sights too numerous to mention, we started downward towards the Hooker. This did not take long, as we did most of the journey through glissarding, which is a most enjoyable means of locomotion, making toboggan sliding very tamo indeed. Fancy going down the side of an ice mountain 2000 feet at a clip, and! with no guidance other than a cool head and an ico axe. Such was my experience with guide Clark. After reaching the Hooker wo took in wliat sights there were to bo seen there, and then returned to the Hermitage. I could dwell at great length on my experiences at Mount Cook. However, I left there on the morning of Tuesday, December Ist, roads in the meantime having been fixed, I had the advantage of coach service to Pukaki, where I stoppqd overnight, and leaving next morning for Dunedin via Omarama, Knuw and Oamara. In doing this 1 had the pleasing experience of seeing sheep being shorn by machinery, while visiting the great Benmorc station. I also took in • some of the ether fine stations while en route. No wonder Dunedin is a prosperous business place, with such valuable industry hack of it. I spent a week in and about Dunedin, my visit, being coupled with both business and pleasure, being facilitated in every possible way by P. C. Neill and : Company, our representatives, as well, as by Mr Moon, of the Government’ Tourist Department. I was particularly impressed with Dunedin’s sol id, busi-ness-like appearance, having seen office buildings, warehouses, factories, wharves

and 'shipping which would do credit to some metropolitan cities, and oil my re- - turn I found further progress, the electric trams. And now. for a visit to that which is mentioned as being the grandest of aid sight-seeing places in. the world.; I assure you -that- -subsequent, experiences whips mo into line for voicing this as being an indisputable fact, at least it is grander and more beautiful than anything I have ever seen, and I have seen a good bit Gf that which is mentioned as* tlhe world’s best. I left Dunedin on Saturday, December 12, going direct to Queenstown, via Gore Lumsden and Kingston, taking steamer from Kingston ‘to Queenstown. Weather disagreeable, and on the whale disappointed with what I had seen of Lake Wakatapu and its surroundings. The next day, Sunday, being perfc-cb as to weather, put a different light on the subject, giving me nil excellent opportunity for visiting Queenstown and its immediate surroundings. To bo frank, 1 was still disappointed. Perhaps I was looking for too’.much. I saw nothing in the Remarkables which would excite interest in an American who had seen „ far better in his own country. The ' beautiful colouring of the lake, however, blare than interested me,, and 1 •. doubt;'if there is any lake in the wcrlcl which Will half-way compare with it in this particular." The next day I drove to the Skippex*s and back. I n doing this I became warmed up to the Wakatipu district, having seen some very grand gorge attractions, the Sho-tover river and lovely panoramic sights of the Shotover Valley and Lake Wakatipu. Anyone visiting Queenstown 'should not fail to do this. The next day brought- rain, and the next l.kewise, and as ind cations suggested no immediate change for the batter, I came away without doing the Wakatipu district. r.s one- eho-uVI in order to gain proper knowledge of its cliarms. However it is always best to have something left, so I shall l-c-ok ~ forward to the. pleasure of doing tins beautiful section at some future time. The drive from Lumsden t-o Manapour i was rather disagreeable, owing to cold winds from aui overcast sky, but with all this, I enjoyejl a peep at the rugged Takitimos, which reminded me very much of our Neiv Mexico mountains. The next day. Sunday, being perfect as to weather I took m the principal sights of Lake Manapouri, which I consider the most beautiful lake I have ever seen. Never have I seen a lake studded with such beautiful inlands or walled with such mountain grandeur. I doubt very much if there is any lake in the world which will compare with this almost unknown marvel of grandeur and ■j beauty. Lake Te 'Anau came next in ,!• line. Was a bit disappointed with this • lake until I had got pretty well up to its bead, where!l 'had an opportunity of seeing some of its fiords as well as its affording a grand view of the snow and iee-oupped mountains of the Clinton “Valley. ~ Should 'I describe the Clinton and the Arthur valleys with their combination ot mountains, glaciers, lakes, rivers, faills, bush, birds, fish and llora and Milford Sound with its majestic fiords the average good-natured New Zealander who has not as yet taken in these wonderful sights, would be inclined to think 7 was attempting, to fill him with a fairy tale. The cynic : wouVl attribute it- to an ulterior motive, ■ which in a measure would i bo correct, as we intend exploiting the * matter very thoroughly in our own country,, where people 1 rave sought and Been, lived and learned, and therefore appreciate the possibilities as well as t-lio material value there is in nature’s workshops. How deplorably true it is that New Zealanders' have nOb other than, theoof this, the niost valuabldm their assets. With only one except ami, and that by virtue cf the honmember representing the Wakar did) I see anything Which would indicate a visit to the above section from any of the members of Parliament" who voted against the San Francisco mail service, and I may'add' that two-thirds of our party of sixteen, crossing the Waimangu geyser, on October 7th .fast, came to the colony in our (tlHen) > last steamer, and further, that out of the six tourists who were sheltered with me in Beech Hut, Clinton Valley, on the night of December 22nd, -. fewr of . them were Americans, having hs«d the Oceanic steamship service to-New Zealand. These are matters O'F record witli your Government ( Tourist Department, and, therefore, can, be easily verified.*.. ; ' ' ; !v I next went to Invercargill, where I enjoyed a visit, taking in the sights of ; that; pretty .place from ite water towea’,;

this being more than an ordinary treat. I was very much iiupycwsed with the way the town has been laid out, showing wisdom cn the part- cf these- responsible for such work. / My next visit- was to the Bluff anp Stewart Island. lam afraid that I cannot do justice to these places, particularly to Stewart- Island, inasmuch as I only went there and back, using but a part of a day. However, I have reason to believe that it is an ideal place for spending a holiday, inasmuch as I understand it affords plenty of game and fish, besides being possessed of many scenic attractions, as well as desirable climatic conditions.

Now, my dealr reader, if yon care to consult guides, you will find that i have taken in nearly every scenic attraction which your beautiful', colony affords to the tourist, and I assure you that my investigations have boon, made upon most faithful lines, making proper deductions as well as- reasonable comparisons for and against that which I have seen in ether parts of the world, and this under mature reflection, and net Hinder the stimulus of the moment ; and further, I feel well! qualified for doing this, having seen a great deal of the woi'ld’s best scenic attractions, as ■well as having had an experience of over a quarter cf a century in, the managcmqn'o, of tourist departments of America’s principal railroads. By way of closing this writing, I feet that I should give some 'reasons for making the few pointed declarations herein, particularly referring to the Waimangu Geyser, the Mount Cook district, and the combination of southern lakes, Clinton Valley and Milford Sound.

In the Waimangu. Geyser you have'a unique feature,--which there is nothing in the worid to compare with; that and its neighbouring aspect putting. it in a class all by itself, which shou\4 give it prominence as one of the world’s greatest attractions.

In the Mount Cook district you have a.pronounced alpine effect, which is unequalled outside of the polar regions. This, with its convenience, and its comparative freedom from the imposition- of hardships, should stamp it as one of New Zealand’s most valuable assets.

In the southern lakes, Clinton Valley and Milford Sound, you have a combination Avhich is easily the grandest and most beautiful of nature’s scenic gifts. This, with its easy stages of access, and its imugorating climatic conditions, makes it an attraction which should be the enA’y of all nations. • I would, therefore, impress upon you tho A’alue of this most- important asset, and the importance of your support- of the Government officials in, their efforts to put these as yet unknown attractions before the world! at large, and to the best possible adA’antage. I would incidentally remark that I am pleased to note the keen interest the Government is-taking in the matter, and this from its highest officials clown. Of course, the profit gained through such. an asset Avill come through the tourist, therefore tins department should have substantial support,' otherwise a thousand Premiers, Ministers and superintendents do nothing other than spend -money to no purpose. When I say -that- the Government officials should have proper support, it docs not apply to Parßamcnlt alone; it applies to the hotelkeeper, the shopkeeper, tho stage coach, driver* and cabman, the steamship companies, the railroad employees. These people will naturally come in direct contact Avilbh tourists, and it would bo Avelil for them to bear in mind that the dollar in sight should not be considered to the extent of discouraging prospective visitors to the colony. I.would mention, however, that ivhile going over the ground, I - consider my treatment all that anyone cftuld desire. I found the hotels very good and very reasonable in prices. I also fcpnd p-c>-litone-ss at every turn, and at the hands of hotel, railroad, .stage; coach and steamship employees, which goes a long way towards keeping people good-natur-ed. On the AV'hole, I can. truthfully .say that I am charmed with NeAV Zealand, and its many pleasing features, both iii thc characteristics of its people and otherwise, and it is Avith a feeling commingled with. ,pleasure and regret that my*-time is drawing neat for leav-

ing—pleasure? Avith the prospects of an early opportunity to voice your many good t-hings in other parts of the AA'orld, and regret that in so doing it wj'.l be necessary to take a temporary leave cf that which I consider one of the pleasures of my life.