ALPINE CLIMBING

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXXII, Issue 22029, 8 February 1935, Page 6

ALPINE CLIMBING

'ASCENT OF MOUNT TASMAN

ANOTHER HEIGHT ATTACKED BAULKED BY BAD WEATHER An ascent of Mount Tasman in tho Southern Alps was made last Saturday by Mr. J. Fraser, of Otira, and Guide Jack Cos, of Waiho Hotel. This climb was the climax nf some interesting; work done by the ] arty from a bivouac on Pioneer Ridge. Their climbing included a partial ascent of Mount Torres? (10,300 ft,), which has been climbed only a few times, and it was a coincidence that with Messrs. Cox and Fraser was the Rev. Canon H. E. Newton, a well-known English alpinist, who made the ascent of Mount Torres in 1907. . Mr. Newton ha* been renewing his acquaintance with a region in which he climbed extensively in 1907-1908, doing a great deal of the pioneer climbing there. He has already covered much of his old ground, although he is now more than 60 years of age. With Messrs. Cox and Frs,ser he left early last week for the Pioneer Ridge, where the party bivouacked. Front this point tho climbers made an interesting trip, which is rarely covered, across to tho head of the Fox Glacier, over a pass at the foot of Mount Torres, and into the country at th* head of the Balfour River. Altitude of O rer 10,000 Feet An attempt was made to climb Mount Torres; the ''party overcame all the real climbing difficulties and had practically reached the summit when bad weather threatened and the ascent had to be abandoned at the point of completion. The climbers were then at an altitude of more than 10,000 feet.

After the return to the bivouac the party explored thß possibilities of u new.route up Mount Tasman, but found it impossible to negotiate. On the next day out a complete traverse was made of the Pioneer Ric'ge, the party again going over ground climbed by Mr. Newton on his visit 27 years ago. Thin trip is very seldom done. The ascent of Tasman was doiie on Saturday. Mr. Newton, feeding ;bat he. had done enough climbing"lor the time being, rested while. Messrs. Fraser and Cox Jibbed in excellent weather.

The party left he bivouac at 2.15 i.m., went across to the Marcel Pass and there ascended Mount Jjendenfeld (10,500 ft.), reaching the summit bj' sunrise. They, traversed Lendenfeld and went down into the Engineer Col. from there making a complete ascent oi Tasman, reaching tie summit at 8 a.m. The weather was still perfect for climbing and many fino photographs were secured. After an easy descent the climbers reached 't he bivouac at 2.45 p.m. ; Slheor Roc i Precipice On the following day the three men went across ihe head of the Fox glacier to 'make an attem] it- on the rock buttress on the northern side of the Tasman —a sheer rock precipice which for 1 all its dangerous aiipect had attracted the attention of several climbers. But; it was found thai the climb olfered too many- s and it was abandoned. The party returned to'.the bivouac, and on the same day reachedl the hut. oh Chancellor Ridge, where the last night was spei it -before completing the journey, to Wsilto gorge. On the trip Mt. Newton carried with him many pi otographsi which he took on his first vi iit in 1907-08. From these interesting comparisons were made, and the par ;y .came to the conclusion,that in 27 years there had been many remarkable changes in the forma"~n of the mountain tops.