Thank you for correcting the text in this article. Your corrections improve Papers Past searches for everyone. See the latest corrections.

This article contains searchable text which was automatically generated and may contain errors. Join the community and correct any errors you spot to help us improve Papers Past.

Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image

CARNATIONS

PERPETUAL FLOWERERS Failure in the cultivation of perpetual flowering carnations most frequently occurs through over much fussing and coddling. It is that close arid atmosphere, so easy to create with an efficient heating apparatus, that is their ruin. Some heat is essential if the flower buds are to open in winter, but with a little ventilation the temperature ought never to exceed 55 degrees in dull weather, and it may drop to 4.5 degrees at night without any harm resulting. Carnation growing is not a?i expensive matter, and certainly not a difficult one. The primary object of those who commence cultivating these plants is for winter bloom. As is only natural, this entails propagation early in the year—in fact, some growers commence in the previous autumn, and go on rooting cuttings as they become available The present is, however, as good a time as any to make a start, either with cuttings or seeds. Much the best shoots for the former are found about midway on the flowering growths. If these can be taken when about three or four inches long, they will come away with a " heel," and are ready for insertion after trimming away the smaller leaves at the base. If for any reason longer growths have to be used, they must bo cut off below a joint in the usual way, and these will root better by having the base split up with a knife for a quarter inch or so.

Sand For Booting

Sharp sand is the best rooting material, and the cuttings should be kept more or less close for a month. A slight bottom heat of about 55 degrees is an advantage in promoting quick rooting. As soon as the cuttings are rooted they will begin to grow, and from that stage air must be admitted gradually until finally the young plants are able to withstand the air of the house without drooping. Very shortly after this they will be ready for potting singly in three-inch pots. The bulk of the potting compost should consist of the best turfy loam obtainable, and it should have been cut and stacked for a few months before. At this stage three parts of loam to one ot wood ashes and half a part of sand with a dash of bonemeal, are most suitable. Firm potting is essential, for in loose soil no carnation will keep healthy for long. As the roots obtain a good hold of the soil growth advances more rapidly, and were it allowed to go its own way would run straight to flower. A bushy plant is wanted, so at the fourth or fifth pair of leaves the top is nipped off. By the time the side growths resulting from this operation have made three or four pairs of leaves, the roots will have filled the pots, thus indicating the need for the flowering size The manuring of carnations can easily be overdone, and while bonemeal is safe, because of its slow action, amateurs are advised to rely upon the special mixtures made up by leading specialists. Raising Prom Seed The common fault in sowing carnation seed is that it is invariably sown too deeply. A light sandy soil, composed of two-thirds loam and one-third sharp sand, suits admirably. Fill the pans or pots to within half an inch of the top, and water with a fine rose to settle the soil. Then sow the seeds about a-quarter. inch apart. Sprinkle over sufficient light sandy soil to just cover the seed, and finally give a light watering with the fine rose. Place over the pan a sheet of glass, and over this a sheet of thick paper to exclude the light. The glass should be turned once a day to get rid of the condensation of moisture. As soon as germination has commenced the paper should be removed except in sunny weather. If the soil is allowed to become excessively dry the seedlings will be seriously checked, if not spoiled. On the other hand, if the soil is kept too wet they may damp off. Therefore discretion is needed.

HANGING BASKETS

BEAUTIFUL RESULTS The cultivation of various kinds of plants in hanging baskets is desirable from the standpoint of beauty and also because certain species take more kindly to that method of culture than any other In the first place baskets of flowering and foliage plants suspended from the roof of the verandah or porch during summer and early autumn add considerably to the attractiveness of the house, while wellchosen subjects are seen to greater advantage than they would be if grown in any other way. The compost m which the plants are grown is better aerated, and there is less chance of it becoming sour or unsuitable for the maintenance of plant life. This alone is a consideration in the case of certain plants which aro difficult to grow. The baskets made of galvanised wire are the most serviceable, the plain, round ones being the best. Make certain that they are strongly made, for faulty construction may lead eventually to the destruction of a finelygrown plant, just when it is looking its best. The interiors of the baskets should be lined with fresh moss. This has a much better appearance than sphagnum which has become dried. It requires to be packed firmly all round so that the soil cannot escape. Peat may be used for lining for tnoso plants which like it; these mainly belong to the fern family. A neat finish is obtained by rubbing the outside with the hands and clipping off any long pieces. The compost is best made of peatleaf mould and sand, the whole being well mixed. The rougher portions are placed at the bottom of the basket, filling up to the brim with finer soil and pressing down firmly. The basket can then be immersed in water and allowed to settle down for some hours, when the surface should present a somewhat level appearance. Any cavities which remain can be filled up with more compost. This method of I watering must be followed throughout the season whenever the roots of the I plants show signs of becoming dry.

Permanent link to this item

https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/NZH19340811.2.196.78

Bibliographic details

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXXI, Issue 21876, 11 August 1934, Page 8 (Supplement)

Word Count
1,032

CARNATIONS New Zealand Herald, Volume LXXI, Issue 21876, 11 August 1934, Page 8 (Supplement)

CARNATIONS New Zealand Herald, Volume LXXI, Issue 21876, 11 August 1934, Page 8 (Supplement)

Help

Log in or create a Papers Past website account

Use your Papers Past website account to correct newspaper text.

By creating and using this account you agree to our terms of use.

Log in with RealMe®

If you’ve used a RealMe login somewhere else, you can use it here too. If you don’t already have a username and password, just click Log in and you can choose to create one.


Log in again to continue your work

Your session has expired.

Log in again with RealMe®


Alert