CHRYSANTHEMUMS

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXXI, Issue 21698, 13 January 1934, Page 8 (Supplement)

CHRYSANTHEMUMS

" TAKING THE BUD " Chrysanthemums should now be making good growth, and all side shoots should be rigidly suppressed. These are easily removed by the linger and thumb while tying-up is in process. A watch should be kept for the small caterpillar, which has the annoying habit of rolling the leaves together and eating into the young shoots. It is always advisable to spray with arsenate of lead. This can be added to the Bordeaux mixture when spraying for rust, one operation thus giving control of two troubles. - Alloift no pest or disease to obtain a hold on th* plants, and every means possible should be taken to preserve good, heakhv foliage, as this is one of the essentials in the production of highclass blooms. Spraying with clear water in the evenings after very hot days, quickly revives the foliage. The operation known as " taking the bud," •is sometimes an insuperable obstacle to amateurs, but with the aid

of the illustration the operation should not present any difficulty. The buds which develop this month, will be much too early. They are what are known as first crown buds. These should be removed, and the shoots grown on, to form the second crown. In removing the bud, care should be taken to avoid any damage to the young shoots around it. The bes£ shoot is selected to grow on, and the others are removed, but it is advisable not to remove all at the one time. First crown buds are the buds which form at the tips of the shoots after the first break, or branching has occurred. These are surrounded by a number of small shoots. Second crown buds are formed /When the first crown buds are rubbed out, and one or more shoots allowed to grow on. Each of these shoots will produce a bud, surrounded by small shoots. Terminal buds develop' when the second crown buds are rubbed out and one or more shoots grown on. The terminal bud consists of one central bud, surrounded by a cluster of smaller flower buds. As a rule, the second crown will give the best class of bloom with most varieties. After the bud is taken, it will increase rapidly in size with judicious feeding, but any feeding should cease on the first appearance of colour in the bloom. Then only clear wu'er should be applied.

ORIENTAL POPPIES

SUMMER DISPLAYS The Oriental poppy is one of the most striking of flowering plants which bloom in early summer. In association with lupins or bearded flag iris, it provides a brilliant display before most of the herbaceous border flowers are in bloom. This poppy has thick fleshy roots, a!nd dislikes being disturbed. It becomes established rather slowly, and flowers little until the second y6ar. It should therefore be placed where it is to remain indefinitely, for the plants increase ui size and floriferousness for many years.

The Oriental poppy looks best in small groups in the herbaceous border. It should be placed toward the middle or back of the border, as the flowers are over by the end of December and the large, leaves become untidy. The poppies y can be increased by means of root cuttings taken as soon as the leaves have died down, and placed in boxes of sandy soil. Seeds are produced profusely and mav be sown as soon as they are ripe. Of late years many new colours have been introduced. Oriental poppies can now be obtained in named varieties of white, salmon rose, salmon, orange and orange scarlet.

ORNAMENTAL GRASSES

USEFUL SPECIES Ornamental grasses are perhaps more appreciated during the winter for decorative purposes when flowers are scarce. \\ hen the flower >pikes are fully developed they should be cut on a dry, sunny day, tied in bunches- and hung head downwards in an airy shed, for use when required. Many uses can be found for them around the home. For mixing with the flowers of sweet peas they are admirable, and when winter sweet peas are in flower there is usually a dearth of suitable foliage that will harmonise with them. Among the best varieties for these purposes are Hordeum jubatum, with very handsome plumes, which look well dried. Lagures ovatus, the hare's tail crass, which is also useful for bouquets. Briza maxima, the quaking grass, and Agrostis nebulosa. All these are best treated as hardy annuals, and sown every year in March or September of porenuinl habit are Stipa pennata (feather grass) and Tricholoena rosea, which are well worth crowing, although they may tako longer to reach their full development.