ENGLISH COLLECTIONS

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXIX, Issue 21296, 24 September 1932, Page 6 (Supplement)

ENGLISH COLLECTIONS

" SWAGGER " SUIT HIP-LENGTH COAT [SPECIAL TO N.Z. HERALD —COPYRIGHT] LONDON, Aug. 12 Our fashion fate for next autumn is« already decided; all the 'styles, colours and, materials wo shall wear have been chosen, and I have seen some very advanced English collections and find the newest designs charming. All the most celebrated British and French dressmakers use British tweeds and woollen fabrics, and after seeing the r.ew season's textiles I am sure they will continue this policy. British designers have risen to heights hitherto only scaled by the most exclusive French houses, and these designs developed with perfect materials and workmanship are being » turned out at the prices we used to pay for ordinary conventional serges and gaberdines. There has been formed in London a

group of business men who are responsible for Hutny of the new clothes we shall wear. They have taken into consideration various " types," so that clothes shall be as becoming as tliey are varied. , ~ , One fascinating two-piece called " Swagger," would suit the dark and rather exotic girl. The coat of mustardyellow woollen material is three-quarter length and cut on loose lines. It had a scarf coilar and pockets with flaps bordered with dark brown. The dress was of dark brown woollen material neatly tailored with a few pleats iu the back and a wide canvas belt fastened with two buckles at the back. Also for brunettes was a dress in grassgreen fin® woollen fabric with a slight bobble in the weave, made with long tight sleeves which had enormous eyelet. holes from the elbow to the wr:st edged with silver metal and a belt decorated in the same way. Henna is another colour chosen for dark women this autumn, although this colour is also very becoming on clearskinned blondes. _ A particularly good-looking full-length coat made of thick bobbly wool in henna with a yellow scarf was a striking but successful combination of colours. The fair-haired woman will have a choice of many shepherd s plaid materials. In black and white, a deep warm shade of blue, mulberry colour and a soft shade of grey. Shepherd's plaid will be used mostly for tailor-mades; some of these have hip-length coats, others the shorter type of jacket. _ One of the smartest models in this kinu had enormously wide revers and a little patch pocket with an envelope flap on the upper part of each sleeve, with the jacket short and much-waisted and the skirt perfectly plain, i Another suit had a black hip-length coat with a shepherd's plaid skirt. The coat fastened with silver buttons and the buttonholes edged with shepherd s plaid. A larger pattern in broken check in brown and beige made a fascinating suit with wide revers, shaped waist and polished brown link buttons at the waist. Underneath the coat was a smart shirt of beige Macclesfield silk with a stock scarf-collar half brown and half beige i and a small pull-on brown felt hat and brown doeskin gloves, shoes and bag. i Woollen stockinettes have renewed their I popularity, but there are several new : versions of this favourite material. One I which we shall probably see all over • London next autumn is thick and soft ' with a wavy ridge in the weave. At pre- ' sent it is in brown and beige; later there 1 will probably be a full range of colours, as it is suitable for coats and skirts or for dav dresses to wearunder a fur coat. Stockinette with a fine corduroy rib weave looks charming in pillar-box red and royal blue. A dress in this material in pillar-box red was cut with slightly flared skirt, small shoulder epaulets and a tuck-in bib of natural coloured linen. Buttons, clips or fasteners will be most important on the autumn coats and dresses. These will be chromium plated of silver, steel, metal or wood. They may be round, with carved edges, or solid and square, with corners of enamel; or wooden, barrel-shaped, and hand-painted to match the garment on which they are used. They may be pronged rings and open squares, or formed liko a letter on a hinge. But whatever shape they are they are infinitely important in the new dress schemes; also it is gratifying to know that, all those buttons and novelty fastenings are British manufacture. English velvets will be very much to the front in. the new fashions. Cotton, silk and artificial silk velvets of every shado and texture will be employed for day and afternoon dresses. New Lancashire hollowcut, corded and plain velvets are being used by London and Paris dress creators for long and three-quarter day coats, also for smart little hip-length jackets. Definitely, materials will matter very much in the fashion scheme for the autumn, and the ".surface" will be the deciding factor when choosing a new model. Crinkled, mottled and freize effects will bo noticed in all kinds of fabrics. Also jasper, herring-bone, parquet, basket weave and interlocking checked designs will prove great attractions. Mat sur will be used again for trimming tailored suits. Collars on coats will bo high and draped, and the fur trimming at the elbow which was so new last, year will be shown again on both tailored suits and wrap coats. The newest satins arc being specially woven and finished so that the dull and the shiny side may be used.