ECONOMICAL FASHIONS.

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXIX, Issue 21224, 2 July 1932, Page 6 (Supplement)

ECONOMICAL FASHIONS.

PSYCHOLOGY OF WORLD EVENTS BRITISH FABRICS. [SPECIAL TO N.Z. HERALD. —COPYRIGHT!.] LONDON, May 12. That feminine fashions governed by the psychology of world events and not by the whim of the designer is amply proved this year. Never have fashions been more economical, and at the same time so becoming as they are this season. Just when we are all ploughing our way through the depressions, needing all the help attractive clothes can give, yet having less money then ever to spend, we rejoice to find the smartest and daintiest frocks are made of woollen and cotton fabrics. A little wool mousse coat frock, with matching cape or short jacket, and perhaps a fox fur tie slung round the shoulders, is the type of toilette to be seen at the smartest rendezvous. The importance of tho cotton evening gown is growing, and from the original model of white pique which astonished the fashion world when shown in the early collections we now find dainty gowns of cotton voile, printed pique, and organdie, being chosen and- worn at important functions.

But who would have imagined that Court dresses of plain and embroidered muslin would have achieved chic and received the seal of Royal approval! The King and Queen have expressed a wish that Court gowns, whenever possible shall be made from British fabrics, and her ilajesty was charmed by a, simple model that was submitted for her approval, made of sheer white organdie, slim-fitting but having short frilled sleeves a mass of frills at the hem, and a cluster of fabric flowers at the waist. The daintiest frock imaginable for a debutante.

The newest cotton materials are difficult to recognise as such, and a famous designer showed a new frock in fine cotton pique in a close plaid design of red, white, and blue, which looked like silk crepe, made with short caped sleeves and a skirt that fitted almost to the knee, and with pleats from there for fulness.

The mid-season collections shew few flares and many more pleats, usually low down on the skirt.

I have mentioned before the great liking for corded or corduroy materials. In some fabrics the ribbing is very fine, in others quite pronounced. Wool, velvet, silk and cotton are manufactured into these corded materials, so that they appear in every type of dress and coat. Evening gowns show the same simple lines which are associated with all exclusive modes. A clever colour combination, unusual sleeve effect, or very new materia!, gives all the distinction, and it is unusual to see a " trimmed " evening gown this season. A real crimson red, and a rich purple are two distinctive colours which, when made into long svelte gowns clinging to the figure and full round the ankles, stand out by reason of their colour, and in the same way that a well-cut black evening gown in satin, crepe, or velvet needs no adorning.

To add a still more effective touch have long sleeves with a low-cut gown. Unusual sleeves for the evening provide the novelty of mid-season collections. A dark bodice to a long white skirt is another novelty, which sounds peculiar but is exceedingly smart, and a marvellous idea for renovation.

If last year's long whito dress is looking weary, cut off the bodice and add a new top of navy or black, that just drapes simply across the figure, over the shoulders, is cut low at the back and ties in a sash of dark bluo or black at the waist.

This idea is equally effective -with a brilliant lacquer red bodice added to a long, slim-fitting black gown. From which you will gather that the best results are gained by bold effects, and the timid bow or cluster of flowers to give colour relief is never seen. Either you have your gown made of some marvellous colour that stands alone, or you combine in such a striking fashion that no other adornment is necessary. There is less " all black " seen this spring than I ever remember. If a black dress is shown for day wear there is usually so much white or vivid colour combined that you lose the impression of a black toilette. Very deep yokes or bodice tops to corselet skirts are effective ways of combining colours or materials that still give a simple line, and all the luss and frills of a day dress are concentrated on the bodice above the waist, which remains slim and closely moulded. Although all women have to practise dress economics this year, do not make the fatal mistake of making do with old shoes and indifferent stockings. It is a national failing of which the Frenchwomen are never guilty, and is really a very poor economy. When you have money to spare invest in really good shoes, collect several pairs to suit different occasions, and never fail to put them on " trees " immediately you step out of them. This doubles the life of them and keeps them immaculate. In tho same way buy more than one pair of stockings at the same time in the same shade; should one unluckily ladder, tho odd stocking works in with the hest. See that stockings are long enough, and that shoes fit snugly round the instep. These two points make a world of difference to foot comfort, which, in turn, will make or mar your whole appearance.

An ill-fitting shoe produces bad carriage, which will ruin tho most carefully selected toilette.