MODERN ROAD OF FASHION.

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXV, Issue 20130, 15 December 1928, Page 6 (Supplement)

MODERN ROAD OF FASHION.

DISCRIMINATION IN DRESS. , x i.[ ' . » • ; *' ' THE ELEGANCE OF LACE. {SPECIAL TO N.z. HEEALD.—COri'niGHT.J LONDON. Oct. 20. 1928. It is no longer the ambition of the good dressmaker to: turn out her wealthiest clients in' the sort of clothes chosen by their maids. Paris has decided that the day of democracy in dress is past, and the little dress that did for everybody, at any timo, and any place, has disappeared. It- is many years sinco clothes have been so discriminatingly mado to suit every occasion that tiio wearer is likely to meet. There aro clothes for early morning, clothes for chopping, moro clothes tor luncheons. There is the early afternoon or "sit about" dresses, with a more decorativo dress for receiving guests. Then tho afternoon -ensemble for going out to tea, a cocktail- dress, a litle dinner dress or a grand dinner dress. Th6'atre-going dresses willi all their wonderful cloaks, dance frocks, and regal evening dress with special wraps. This " einbarras do riches " is likely to create a number of dress problems for a woman of moderate means. But she has only to avoid the specialised costumes to bo as well dressed as she has ever been. Moderate incomes must mean moderate tastes, for any too definite garment introduced into a simple wardrobe becomes a give-away long boforo ono has had one's money's worth out of it. Moro than ever it should be emphasised that simplicity and discriminating tasto of choosing tho right mode for the right time is tho standard <of goo<l dressing on any bank balance. Tho afternoon modo is ono of simplo elegance. No afternoon dress must look as though it might bo an evening dress put on too oarly, although it is a lovely thing of drapery and cut, with touches of lace, tucks and" bands, fancy stitchiugs and buttons and buckles! It often has ermine or caraculo trimming with bows and jabots, scarves and boleros, quaint collars and odd cuffs. Indeed, it is as varied as lifo itself. Laco is everywhere—jabots and jabotliko collars, sleeve ruffles, slim vesties, and unsuspected touches of lace and insertion in mnny of tho plain material dresses. Colours aro many and lovely, but black is still the first choice of tho very smart woman, and many dresses shown in colours aro ordered in black. Black with white, black with faint pink, or black and vellum (pinkish ivory), aro three very favourito combinations. Reds are good, bright reds and wine reds, but tho newest tone is called mulberry, and is particularly attractive, both in tweeds or silken fabrics. All tho greys have a beige tint, and mulberry and this beige grey form a happy combination in tweed and jersey. I have chosen two afternoon frocks for the subjects of my sketches this week. Tho black ono is made of black panne with finely plisse flounces that illustrate the way tho designs have utilised the pagoda silhouette and yet kept a slimly proportioned outline. Tho true-lovers' knots of ermine aro shown on many models. Tho second is a printed velvet with under bodice of plain crepe and handkerchief jabots of tho plain crepe that add a note of fluttering movement to tho frock. The skirt has the very full flared front, but again, you /vill notice tho general effect is one of slimness. Coals for tho afternoon aro more elaborate than we have had for years, velvetj heavy faille silk, embroidered matelasee (so reminiscent of tho Victorians).' All heavily trimmed with furs. Some have flared fronts like tho dresses, but I, think these will not, find favour yet —we are too wedded to tho slimmer outline for'tho street—and-the very full coat with masses of fur is apt to look a trifle theatrical.

The new hats show tho samo wealth of choice as the gowns and whiio tho little felt cloche or helmet devoid of trimming is still to bo seen, there are many models that are elaborately trimmed, but the elaboration is expressed in details, for they maintain their simple appearance.