PARIS DRESS SHOWS.

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXV, Issue 19892, 10 March 1928, Page 6 (Supplement)

PARIS DRESS SHOWS.

CHIC COATS FOR BRIDGE. » IMPORTANCE OF EVENING BAGS. , j [SPECIAL TO , N.Z. HERALD. —COPYRIGHT.] (.LONDON, Jan- 27. Paris is preparing for the dress parados which open the season next month. The greatest secrecy surrounds all the dressmaking establishments, for thes'o preparations are fraught with much anxiety and care, each oue hoping to spring a successful surprise that will bring fame and much business to her individual house. There is a wonderful spirit of esprit de corps among Paris dressmakers and manufacturers. The dressmaker evolves a special creation to assist in popularising the manufacturer's goods and he, on the other hand, is always ready to.confine a pattern to one dressmaker so that her creations can ho exclusive to herself. Between dressmaker and dressmaker naturally there is a spirit of competitive rivalry, and that is why such strict secrecy is enjoined during the anticipatory vveeks of preparation. One thing we may feel fully convinced of: there will be no sudden revolution of style. Dressmakers are far too wise to impose anything extraordinary on their clients. In these days when they think the time has arrived for a change they insert the thin end of the wedge at the beginning of the season, push it in a little farther us the season advances, and by the next season it is an accomplished mode. This has happened with tho skirt. All sorts of oddments have been draped at various angles to create an illusion of greater length until now tho ovening skirt is in many cases quite long. But we still cling to our short skirts for day wear; not quite so short, for wo have banishod knees, thank goodness! The uneven effect persists in skirls, dresses, hats, and even some of tho wrap coals. ■>

I have sketched a very pretty frock which illustrates this uneven idea and could be carried out in any number of materials. The flounces have their fullness confined by means of fino tucking on' the right shoulder and right hip/ and both dip toward the back. The. cross-over line of the bodice tied on tho left hip is becoming to all figures and helps to slenderise the effect of the flounces. It

was composed of absinthe-coloured crepe and absolutely devoid of trimming except th£ fine tucking \ Fine workmanship is" the distinguish-ing.-feature of the afternoon frocks rather than • ornamental trimming; a contrasting ljiickle at waist, hip,, or shoulder is often the only other form of .decoration. In the realm of evening dress there is a tendency toward the use of stiffer materials, with more body than the fragile chiffons and crepes we have been wearing. Taffeta and moire and the , new stiff satins arc appearing, but they need the hand of the expert to drape them;>successfully. Real velvet is creeping in instead of the transparent variety. It is merely another case of the swing of the pendulum. „ The reaction shows signs of approaching and already they are . talking of pleated skirts of taffeta and stiff satin to wear with little cloth' coats cut on " smoking jacket lines.", Tho sketch shpws one that was included in a trousseau for the south—tho skirt of stiff black satin, the coat of hunting "pink" cloth with a soft crepe shirt and black tie, and a black velvet hat with bands of gros grain ribbon. The blouse, which was inserted as'the thin end of the wedge last season, looks like developing into a success. Many of the new cardigan four-piece suits consist of a three-quarter coat and skirt of kasha or fine tweed, with a cardigan in a plain colour to match, and a blouse of striped or checked silk to tone. Tho little house coats for bridge or evening wear are as attractive as they are useful. .... If you have a fluffy black evening fioclc vou can ring the changes easily with a little gold and black brocade, or creme and gold brocade coat, and then still more striking if you get a length of bril-liant-coloured brocade and line it with gold, putting a bind of gold round the edges. , . < . w *■■*" - • Many girls use these little coats for slipping on between dances, and really they are smarter and more practical than scarves or shawls. If you are clever make an evening hag —pochette style to, match each coat. This gives an added cachet to your entire getup and fancy bags are so important i'or evening just; now.? .