LADIES' COLUMN.

New Zealand Herald, Volume XXIX, Issue 9010, 15 October 1892, Page 4 (Supplement)

LADIES' COLUMN.

NOTES ON THE LONDON FASHIONS Blue has been the prevailing colour this year, and in millinery it has been worn with charming effect. Certainly no other colour is so becoming, and an azure- tinted velvet bow in the centre of a bonnet has been known to make a plain face positively good-looking. A somewhat novel style of hat particularly well suited * for seaside wear, being guileless of feathers, has a close round crown of straw slightly turned up all round, and a crown of velvet, rather full, which is tied round with velvet ribbon, tied into bows on the side with a couple of quills and osprey. Another important freak of fashion which merits our attention is the hair net, and this is ©(specially serviceable at the seaside, when curled or waved fringes (which are still the idol of the hour) may be preserved in a perfect condition by an invisible net made of fine hair being pinned lightly over it. For the back of the hair the net should be of silk, as those of hair are not strong enough to bear the weight of coil or chignon. One of the latest vagaries of fashion is the elbow sleeve, fully gathered and wide, terminating with a flounce of lace and generally made of velvet. Grenadine is another of fashion's whims, and one which has found general favour, in consequence, no doubt, of black being so popular this season, and crepon and voile having been slightly overdone. Grenadine is the only black material suitable for summer wear. I have seen a comparatively new thing in crepons, by the way, one that is curiously woven and has the appearance of being: accordiou pleated. It is to be had in all colours, of which gobelin blue i* one of the most effective, and looks well trimmed with black satin, studded with jet. Of course, we all know that the flowered and spatted muslins, such as were worn by our grandmothers, are once more in vogue, and now fashion decrees that silk linings shall be worn with them to show with charming effect under the open-work lace insertion which is one of the most popular trimmings just now. Ribbons are still the rage, of all make and widths, and dotted Swiss muslins strewn with floral patterns in soft and delicate colours are among the novelties. French batiste is also a favourite material for seaside wear, and grey and pink, greet) and tan, and heliotrope and rose are the newest and prettiest combinations of colour. Grey gingham brocaded designs in black and white is a quiet and ladylike material ; it is generally relieved with collars and cuffs of black velvet. ALTAR OR TRAYKIXIXG BRIDAL DRESS. Quaintly demure dresses are the fashion of the hour. Puritanical simplicity and neutrality in cut and colouring are the chief and distinguishing features of frocks | made by an " artist in costumes." A | pretty gown I saw the other day could ! easily be copied in an inexpensive way by a ! home dressmaker. It was of dove-grey ! nun's veiling made princess shape, the I bodice opening a little in front over a i dainty V-shaped chemisette of Irish lace. I Full sleeves of grey fall loosely to the ; elbow, over tight under-sleeves of grey, j covered with Irish lace. About the edge of the skirt are twisted two rather wide satin ribbons of dark and light grey, with tiny butterfly bows at regular intervals. The pretty " Victorian poke" to be worn with this soft-hued costume is of grey gauze, shirred over a white wire shape, and its only trimming is a tuft of tall white plumes on one side, and narrow white satin strings. This would be an ideal costume for a bride who wishes to be married in her " travelling" gown.

COST OF A CSKFCX STYLISH DRESS. 1 came across a pretty gown recently which will form a good mode! for a smart autumn costume. The colour was dark bottle-green. Six yards of serge at about two shillings a yard makes a very good dress pattern, while the striped silk, of which the rtrtr*, the side-flap of the skirt and the sleeves are made, is quite pretty and nice enough at about three shillings the yard, and you will not need more than four yards. The passementerie (get it good and not too tinselly) with which the bodice is trimmed you can buy for two shillings a yard ; three yards you will find quite sufficient; while for linings, cottons, silks, etc., you might allow a margin of about five or six shillings. A dressmaker, for, say, three days, at half-a-crown a day, would therefore cost seven shillings and sixpence, while the total expenditure for the whole costume will amount to about £2 3s od, and for this comparatively small sum you can have a really smart-looking gown. The hat is rather remarkable and diffuse looking with its Mephistophelian plume* and wide-spreading bows, but it is a style that will suit many girls to perfection, and to them I would recommend it A LITTLE GIRL'S BLOUSE. The sailor blouse costume is particularly becoming and fashionable for little girls from four to eight years of age, doubtless because it combines a smart effect with service and utility. Serges of every colour and figured flannels are the fabrics most used for making. For washing dresses cottons of all kinds are used, stripes being more fashionable than figured or floral patterns. Another very useful article for a girl of from twelve to sixteen is the dust cloak, usually made in the form of a circular cloak, and sufficiently long to envelope the figure, and thus protect a best dress. Figured pongee, plain surahs, and alpacas are mostly employed for the making of these garments, without which no summer toilet is complete. Short capes are also worn for growing girls of soft textured, plain materials, that sometimes match the dress, and at others are of a totally different colour and material. NEW COLLAR K.TTKS. Collarettes are now showing very new shapes, such as a huge, widespread style coming out to the edge of the shoulder, and having a wide band near the throat laid flatly. Below the wide row two shorter rows of the lace composing the collarette are added, so that they cover the bust on both sides, but are cut off short, and do not meet in front nor reach to the sides of the waist. A novel cuff, which will be made use of in thin dresses for the summer, consists of three little puffs, and must, to conform to the new idea, be of chiffon of a tint contrasting with that of the dress worn.