RECOLLECTIONS OF A PLEASANT TRIP TO ALEXANDRA.

New Zealand Herald, Volume II, Issue 329, 1 December 1864, Page 5

RECOLLECTIONS OF A PLEASANT TRIP TO ALEXANDRA.

j YVe pass over our first day's journey by Cobb's coach I to "the Creek," by remarking how amazed we should have been ten years ago, if any one had then prodi, t:d that wo thould now have a " Cobb's," or any other coach running daily to Mangatawhiri in this year 186<1. At that period, the long bush had scarcely a horse track through it; hut now, how changed ; a line metalled road runs tho whole distance; a lasting memorial of the foresight of General Cameron, and the industry of the troops who constructed it. Ar - rivm" at. the. Creek, wo have just time before the mail-boat leaves to take a run up the heights of Koheroa.the first scene of action in which our troops were engaged in the late' Waitkato campaign, lo » civilian, Koheroa appears to be the most formidable natural position of any on the banks of the river; but 1. am anticipating. Descending on the N. W. side or the hill, we come to a great piece oi engineering, culled " Carlett's Tunnel," which is cut through the spur of the hill, within a few yards of the Creek. A tramroad is in course of construction, which will lead, when finished, to the AVarigamarino Creek, som miles furtlirf on, and between Koheroa and Meremere ; but why this tunnelling appeared necessary, T am'at a loss to conceive. Surely, it would have cost much' less lajx>r and money if the road had been c-trried nearer to the creek, and round the foot ot the [ ill which could have been done by making a very -liKht' curve in the line. The engineer, however, had •vo doubt his reasons for constructing hiß pretty littjo

tunnel, and r.ot being one, (an engineer, I moan, not a „ •„ ~ «- "TafiSsg Our piacOsin thohoat, £.fterabouthalf on hour's pull, we arrivo at tho Bluff, where wo find tho beautiful gun-boat ' Pioneer,' on board of which vife trnnsfe'r ourselves and blanket (woe.bo ttJ him Wlio fails to take one), making a night of it as well as can, for no sleeping phicefi are provided for travellers, with the excoption of one lady's cabin. AVcgot under way by daylight, and soon arrived at Meremerp, the next position to Koheroa, and wliicli the natives evacuated without fighting, and by and bj o reach Rangiriri, a place'now-remarkable in the history of the Waibato war. It is here tho natives had mounted their "big guns," and from which thoy succeeded in ■firing a shbt through tlio bulwarks of-tho 'Pioneer.' This and two or threo bullet-holes in her funnel is about all the damage they inflicted. How astonished ■they must havo been at her appearance —an iron monster quietly steaming along, and not a man to be seen on lior deck. 1 look upon that boat as having done lasting' service, if only in proving how. futile was the attempt of tho natives to stay tho progress of colonization and civilization in their midst. Whilst tho boat waits we havo a look at tho Redoubt, and the little church with its burial ground, thickly studded with heroes' graves. These tell a end talo ot tho fearful loss of lifo which occurred in tho storming of that strong position ; but as I am not writing a history of tlio war, I .will hasten on with tho boat and my journey. By about three, p.m., wo reach the Coal Mines, and after looking over these, guided by tho intelligent manager, wu again join the 'Pioneer.' I may remark that these mines liavo been invaluable at this particular timo, at)d tlio appliances lor coal.ng the boats aro most complete, and rellcct the greatest credit on Mr. "William Kowe., A few miles bring us to tlio Mission Station of the Rev. Mr. Ashwell. The river scenery at this point is very beautiful indeed, Taupiri Mountain forming a picturcsqiio and charming object. This mountain was for many years strictly tabooed, but some of our gallant tars have erected a tine HagstnlV on its summit, and a good bridle-road runs along the liver side at its fool. Foinierly travellers wero compelled to cross the river twice to avoid touching its sacred soil.

Passing Taupiri wo soon sight the town of Now- j castle, or as it is more familiarly called, Ngaruawa- ! Ilia, which begins to look like a thriving little place ; j four or five steam boats moored for tlie night helped to enliven the scene. Soveral largo buildirgs are in course of erection, viz., tho Colonial Hospital, Hotel, and Bank, all two storyed structures, and many cottages and less pretentious erections are doited abtjut the new township, besides all tho stores and buildings connected with the Military Department, Post-ollice, Bank of New Zealand, itc, The site of this town, as is pretty generally known, is admirably situated upon the fork of two rivers, the Waikato and tho AVaipa. The land is. a low sandy plain of some extent, sufliciently high to escape inundations, which occasionally occur in other parts of the river. On Use opposite side of the Waipa to the township, a long lofty range of prettily wooded mountains extends for many miles, forming good shelter from southerly winds, and are suggestive of suug villas and gardens at their base By daylight we change boats and join tho ' Gundagai,' or ' Kangariri,' as tho case may be, and proceed on our journey up the tortuous AVaipa, passing the sawing station of Messrs. Gibbous, called the 41 Blue Nose," after the steam boat, which is used as a lloafing motive power to turn the circular saws, rather jui ' ingenious contrivance, but will probably soon give place to a stationery engine. After another hour's steam wo arrive at Mr. Barton's settlement, at which we stay a short time and have a chut with some of the tribe. This is a thriving little place, but would bo much more so if industrious Europeans were locatod there; no doubt tho natives • cultivate sufficient for their immediate wants. but they cultivate no more, and hence the mifniishctl appearanco of all theii settlements. Passing one or two now desorted camps, we pause at AVlmtn AVhafc, a very pretty station, still occupied by our troops. It is a" Fign of the times to sco the numerous survey stations along the right bank of both the AVaikato and Waipa rivers; and many "trig stations" arc visible upon the left bank also, lower down the river Waikato. Whether all the land thus surveyed will ever be confiscated or not, is a question for our politicians to decide.

' Feeling our way, for tho river is very shallow in many places, we pass Te Hon, and soon reach Alexandra. The land improves as we ascend tho river; for, as far as I could judge, there is very little really good land of any extent upon either bank of the Waikato. Here or tlioro an old Native settlement shows signs of fertility, and peach anj other lmit trees are abundant; tlio former appear to thrive, in any soil in this country, and aro in groves in som places ; but plains or valleys suitable for the plough it w*as not my good foitune to see, however much the AVaikato country may liavo been coveted as an agricultural district. However, as I had not many opportunities of judging from the dock of a steam-bont, my opinion is not worth much. Alexandra township is situated immediately contiguous to tho celebrated old pa called Waiari, tho sec-no of Hongi's great light with the AVaikatos many years since. It is—or was —a wonderful place, and in a very strong position, and I suppose we can only account for its not having been occupied by the Natives in their recent struggle from the fact of its having been strictly tabooed over since that occurrence. . Our troops discovered-a great quantity of human bones, and having decently buried them, the pa -was ploughed up. and is at this time growing what I hope will prove a good crop of Outs, and the old intrenchmencs are almo.-t as perfect as tlioy were 40 years ago, and are deep an and formidable. Alexandra is now occupied by the 2nd Waikato Eegiment, and the land is ajmost all they could desire:—fine deep black soil, easily worked, and a good level plain upon each side of the river. The town allotments are all laid oil', and many of the officers and men-have fenced in their acres, and some have erected cottages thereon. My own opinion is that this will be as nourishing a place as Otahuhu in a few years. Two very fine redoubts have been constructed on cither side of the river, and a good fernforms an easy access to each division of the town. OnG or two iarge corrugated iron stores have been erected, and -some weatherboard buildings and many others are in progress, and X was told that a large contract for timber had been entered into by the Colonial Government for the use of the regiment. It appears to be generally admitted that the best land in all tho conquered territory lays beyond Alexandra, and stretches away towards Hangiiuvliia, including

the plains or delta of the AVaipa and Te Awaniutu. Time would not allow me to visit this district, however, although it would no doubt amply repay the tourist. The I'irongia Pangea form a beautiful background to tho township looking south or south-west, and from these heights the snow-capped mountains of Rotorua arc distinctly seen. Taking Alexandra all in all, I think the 2nd AVaikatos have good reason to bo satisfied with their location. Retracing our way as fast as tho falling rivers will permit, and after several stoppages upon sandbanks, w-e at length reach the Blull' and proceed to Port AVaikato, and this is by far the most beautiful part, of the river—fine islands abound, and well-wooded hills stretching down to the water's edge. Passing the magnificent -dill's of Ttiakau we soon arrive at G'amcrontown (but we did not see the town) and Kohanga Mission Station, and pretty English looking churches; and by-and-bye cast anchor at Port AVaii lcato —containing a busy line of boat-builders, the life of the place ; and look round this settlement before night sets in. Two new steamers are on tho stocks— one the ' AVhite Slave,' a curious looking craft, appears to be nearly ready for service; but the other strikes me as being the most serviceable boat. She is quite flat on her lloor, and has a projecting deck all round to give room for passengers and cargo, arid will be provided with deck-houses fore and aft—which by the way would bo an improvement to the ' Pioneer' if the passenger traffic increases: Port AVaikato never can becomo a very

large, town in my opinion. The range of hills which ] extends to (ho waters edge in the south side of the river are so steep there is really no room for more than one street—liko Wellington in this respoct— and few would venture to build upon the sand (literally) on the , opposite side—there is one snug little bay nearer to the heads, the Mission property (Maritiii), but oven that would .make but a small township if it could be appropriated for such a purpose. Then there is the bar entranco. Its all very well for captains of small coasters to say it is quite safe ; so it may be in line weather, but more especially for steamers—but it.must Ic admitted that any port would be safer : without one. One word or two and' -X luive done ; to any one. having n week or ten days' leisure, 1 do not know of a more refresliing und pleasaut way of - spending it than by- a trip- to the Waikato country. The captains of the various boats on the river are uniformily courteous ■ and anxious to make tho most-of thoir limited accommodation. Hye and bye good resting places will be obtainable on shore at- most of tho new towns, and as fresh boats are launched moru suitable for tho shallow waters, there Trill bo fewer stoppages, and

this will givo visitors more time on shore. Eor my ,oieo part_J Jook forward tp. my nfiXt/.trip,- when I hope to see Hamiitc n and Cambridge, which aro highly fpokeuof, and now.in the occupation of the .Waikato .. r