RANDOM RECOLLECTIONS

New Zealander, Volume XVIII, Issue 1650, 8 February 1862, Page 9

RANDOM RECOLLECTIONS

OF A COLONIAL TOURIST. (Continuation of Stray Leaves from his Note Book.)* We arrived at Nelson on Saturday, the 9th Nov. It was a lovely day, one of those bright balmy days for which New Zealand generally, and Nelson in particular, is justly celebrated. Mr. C., the pilot, came on board about 3 p.m., and we were soon snugly ensconced on the smooth waters of Nelson harbour, or rather dock, for it ft more like an artificial dock than a natural haibour. Like many other good things, however, access to it is not very easy. The Nelsonians have reason to be thankful that they have such a man as Mr C. for their pilot. The approach to the harbour is enough to daunt any ordinary seaman, especially with a sailing vessel. But under the skilful management of Mr. C. there is comparatively little danger. Our party soon learned that the friends at Nelson, in anticipation of our arrival, had provided our respective billets, and_ our several hosts and hostesses were busy “on hospitable cares intent.” The next day —Sabbath—was one of enjoyment and repose. The kirk, which is a building of considerable size, and by no means incommodious, was well filled by a highly respectable congregation. Our esteemed colleague officiated at both diets of worship, and, although he gave us at least one sermon which I had heard before, I was very glad to hear it again. It was one of those sermons of his—and we who hear him constantly know full well that he has many such—which will bear more than one repetition. For depth of thought, terseness of expression, perspicuity of arrangement, and above all, for practical utility, it could scarcely be surpassed. In the afternoon we visited the Sabbath school, when one of our party, at the request of the pastor and the teachers, gave a short address to the children. Another good discourse in the evening closed the duties of the day, and there were doubtless many disposed, on returning to their peaceful homes, to reciprocate the feeling of the Psalmist, and say, “ A day in Thy courts is better than a thousand.’’ On Monday we spent the first part of the day in visiting various friends and perambulating the town. The face of the country in the immediate vicinity of Neiison is not inviting; forbidding hills inclose the settlement on almost every side; but the town itself is one of the prettiest, if not the prettiest, town in New Zealand. The regularity and cleanliness of the principal streets are remarkable. From the wharf—where the steamer lay—a well constructed road at the base of the hills skirts round the edge of the harbour until it debouches upon the flat on which the principal portion of the town is built. Immediately in front of this part of the settlement there is a large extent of territory covered only by very shallow water, and in all probability this will eventually be reclaimed, and a large and valuable addition will thus be made to the building sites of the town. An iron tramway already occupies one side of the road leading from the port, and will be continued through the town and up the hill to the Dun Mountain, for the purpose of facilitating the transport of the valuable ore which has been discovered in that locality. The work is already far advanced, and will add materially to the prosperity of 1 the place. Towards evening we took leave of our friends. The Rev. Mr. C. and Mr. McR. joined our party, and having shifted our luggage from the Airedale to the Worsley, wc cast off our moorings just before sunset and were soon standing out of Blind Bay, under full steam for Wellington, or as some like to term it the Empire City. Capt. ll—ll left us at Nelson, intending to proceed in the Airedale to Sydney. We all regretted the loss of his society. It was not until f after we had left Nelson that I learned, incidentally, that he is a brother of the well known Rev. Newman Hall of Surry Chapel, successor to the celebrated Rowland Hill.

The next morning, Tuesday, brought us to Wellington, not however until we had undergone a slight specimen of Cook’s Straits weather. The squalls came down the gullies of Cape Tarawitte with a force and frequency which sufficiently reminded us that we were approaching a locality rendered famous by many boisterous traditions. When we dropped our anchor in Lambton Harbor, and Capt. K. gave orders to discharge the customary gun, we might possibly have disturbed the slumbers of some of the inhabitants, but there were very few signs of life and activity. This perhaps ’might have been accounted for by the fact that it was not quite 8 o’clock, and the people at the South are not proverbial for early rising. Presbyterianism has not taken such deep root or flourished so well at Wellington as at Nelson, hence we were not surprised at being left to shift for ourselves. We soon found comfortable, if not very economical j quarters at the Queen’s Hotel. The Wesleyan Ministers were assembled in District Meeting, and we had the opportunity of seeing several old friends and acquaintances. During the day we assisted in organizing the Presbytery of Wellington, and in adjusting some little difference between the Minister and one of his office bearers.

la the evening we had an Ordination Service, the Kev Mr. being received into the Ministry and appointed to the charge rendered vacant by the removal of Mr. M n. The scenery about Wellington is picturesque, and the inhabitants generally seem much attached to the place. This is but natural. We all have a tendency to prefer above all .others, the place with which we are most familiar and where we first find a home. But I cannot say that I was very favorably impressed with the appearance of Wellington, although it has much improved since I last saw it, now some years ago. The town is more than double the size it was then, and a considerable extent of ground has been reclaimed from the sea. Still there is a something about the place which indicates inertion rather than activity and progession, forcing as it were the unwelcome idea upon the mind, that the “ Empire City’’ has culminated, and that its future glories rest upon rather a visionary foundation. From Wellington our party was increased by the accession of Kevds. Messrs M,, D., and N., and Capt. C. We also took on board two of the Wesleyan Ministers who were returning home to Canterbury from the District Meeting, and several other passengers, amongst whom was the worthy Mr. II th. We left Wellington on Wednesday the 13th November shortly after noon, and were scarcely cleat of the harbor when we encountered a strong head wind. There was a very small muster at the tea table. Most of the brethren were fairly laid upon their backs. When we changed steamers at Nelson good old Mr. McR. had taken the precaution not only to secure himself a berth, but to appropriate one of the cabins in the’centre, containing four berths or bunks, for myself'and colleague and the two Revds. B. and C. Alter the first night, however, I shifted my quarters to one of the stern cabins. , I was induced to do this partly on account of a desire to accommodate my old friend Capt. C. who had not obtained a berth, and partly to avoid the nocturnal music in which some of my companions indulged. A good bass solo from one of them, I might have listened to with complaisance and even found enjoyment in its extraordinary variations, although, as may hereafter appear, one trumpet is sometimes so loud us to disturb rather than solace—but in this instance it was a duett performed in different keys, and this was too much even for my musical predilections. I was glad, therefore, under cover of a disinterested act of friendship, to make my escape. The next day, Thursday, we reached Lyttelton. 1 was kindly invited by my old friend the Kev. Mr. 8., of the Wesleyan Mission, to take up my quarters at his house at Christchurch. He had some business to transact before leaving Lyttelton, but requested me to seat myself in a dog-cart which was about to start with several other passengers for Christchurch. I did so little knowing what was before me. Never did 1 travel except on the marrow-bone stage, such a road as that along which I was now being driven. It is called the Sumner road, I believe, though some people, with apparently good reason, designate it “ Fitzgerald s follv ” It is a narrow track cut out on the side of the precipitous cliffs which overhang the harbour, without breastwork or fence of any kind, in short, it is a road fitter by far for goats than for human beings I am not naturally nervous, but I must confess' that I watched the progress of the vehicle with considerable trepidation. In many places the small strip of level road approaches the very edge of the cliff, and while on your left the mountain towers steeply above you, on the right there is a precipitous descent of some hundreds of feet at the base of which the water roars and dashes against large boulders of rock. Should the horse take fright or prove at all restive, escape from instant destruction would be little short ot miraculous. This road or track was formed during the Supci intendency of Mr. Fitzgerald, and was, I understand, a pet undertaking of his. It is said that in order to convince unwilling minds that his work was not “ a folly,” but that it was a safe and practicable way of access to Christchurch, he drove a tandem along the dangerous pass and fortunately he met with no accident; but I question if any one could be found reckless enough to repeat the experiment. Christchurch is a large and apparently thriving p ace. It is situated on the Canterbury plains, well known—at least by refute. The plan of the town is regular and the streets are broad and straight, but to a stranger the settlement has a straggling appearance, the town being much larger than would seem to be necessary. The public buildings, and many of the private edifices, are constructed in that peculiar quaint style of medimval architecture which irrisistibly remind one of the ecclc-

siastical origin of the settlement, I visited the Provincial Council Chamber, the Council being in session, expecting to hear some good debating as it was rumoured that the opposition were to make an onslaught upon the budget. But I was disappointed. I heard nothing but some very laboured and inedifying explanations of some of the Estimates, by the Provincial Secretary. I did not regret the visit however as it gave me the opportunity of seeing some old political friends and colleagues. I spent a very pleasant evening with Mr. 15. and family, and took a walk round the town. Here also, the inhabitants arc devoted worshippers of the drowsy god. Very little life is apparent until the sun is high, in the heavens. Before I returned to breakfast I had the pleasure of seeing two old familiar Auckland faces. Mr. G. C. who is established in business in Christchurch, and ministers to the sweets of life in Canterbury, and old Mr. R—h, who appears to be in his congenial element in this land of fleeces and mutton.

After breakfast 1 started in the public conveyance for the foot of the mountain which separates Lyttelton from the interior, and after a toilsome ascent, descended again into the quiet little seaport town. Of all the localities in New Zealand I should dislike Lyttelton as a place of residence. Comparatively speaking there is scarcely sufficient level ground to stretch your legs If ever the tunnel should be completed, and a railway constructed to Christchurch, Lyttelton will be in a measure deserted, and will become nothing more than a depot for the reception of merchandize. I found that some of our party had remained all the time at Lyttelton, our Kevd. colleague being the only one beside myself who had visited Christchurch. He had been domiciled with his brother divine, the Rev. Mr. F., whose company to Otago we had all anticipated. But he could not leave; some matters connected with the educational question, and the local government, necessitated his remaining behind. Having some time to spare I visited the works of the tunnel. I very much question whether the government of the Province have not undertaken a work of greater magnitude than they will find the means of completing; time will show. The Wesleyan Church at Lyttelton is also one of the sights of the place. It is an extremely ornamental building; the interior being diversified with many colours, and decorated on all sides with inscriptions from the Bible in old Church text. In the afternoon (Friday, 15th) we embarked again, and started with a fair wind for Otago, the last port of our destination. But we had not proceeded far before the wind changed to the Southward, and blew a strong gale. Here I must pause and take breath resuming the account of our reception at Otago and our experiences there for another opportunity.

The fair wind with which we started from Lyttelton was of short duration. In truth, from the time we left Manukau the winds had not been very propitious. Some of the old salts accounted for this —according to their belief—natural and necessary circumstance by the fact, that there were “ too many Parsons” on board. We had scarcely cleared Banks’ Peninsula before the weather changed. Daring the night the gale increased, and it blew “ great guns,” right in our teeth, all the next day, with frequent squalls of hail, rain, and sleet. In consequence, our progress was but slow.

Instead of steering direct for Port Chalmers, Capt. K., to avoid the heavy sea, kept more along shore; by which means, though adding to our distance, we managed to crawl ahead faster than we should otherwise have done. It was Sunday morning before we reached Port Chalmers. If, as at the other ports on our way, we had been required to leave after the sojourn of a few hours, we should have departed from the Province of Otago with very unfavourable impressions. The atmospheric reception we met with was sufficiently chilling and repulsive. But first impressions are not always permanent and true. The weather during the ensuing week, and indeed generally during the remainder of our stay, was genial and fine. The warm and friendly reception given us by friends who had been anticipating our arrival, as well as the kindly bearing of the inhabitants generally, soon dispelled the chilling recollections of our first approach. Por some time after we anchored, it was doubtful whether we should succeed in reaching Dunedin the same day. Passengers are usually conveyed from the port in little steam tugs that ply constantly to and fro. But it continued to blow so hard in squalls, that it was said the “ Victoria’’ would not venture. Some of our party made up their minds to remain on board until Monday; others preferred making the attempt overland. Those who walked, succeeded in reaching Dunedin ere night, but they gave a terrible description of the journey, owing to the state of the road. Towards midday, however, the weather moderated a little, and as the steam tug was ready, and nearly all the passengers not pertaining to our party were inclined to go, I joined them, and we were safely landed on the wharf about 3 o’clock p.m. We were all soon comfortably settled in our respective quarters. The Dunedin friends, as at Nelson, having pre-arranged our billets, and it would be ungrateful not to add that our Otagan acquaintances, both new and old, seemed to vie with each other in ministering to our enjoyment. Monday and Tuesday were comparatively idle days: spent in paying visits and perambulating the town. Dunedin is in a state of rapid transition and change. Hence the difficulty of depicting accurately the appearance it presents. The description which might serve as for to-day, would not hold good for a week. It was much larger when we left than when we arrived. Generally speaking, however, the site of the town is not favourable. The ground is unusually broken, and it will need much labour, capital, and skill, to make some of the streets of the City easily available for an extensive traffic. There are, however, already a few very fine buildings, and if present prospects continue, a few years will make wonderful alterations in Dunedin. As might naturally be expected, it presents a bustling, busy appearance. The open space at the junction of Stafford and Princes streets is generally filled with a promiscuous body of men, apparently idlers, while aconstant stream of diggers with “ billy” in hand, and swag on back, may be seen passing to and fro, some with faces beaming with hope and expectation, while the faces of others are clouded by disappointment and care. Every morning news vendors arc to be seen running to and fro solicitingcustomers with all the vociferation and earnestness which mark the same fraternity at the Railway Stations and other places of public resort in the old country. Here you are, the Daily Times, with a full account of the last ‘ rush’—Blue Mountain diggings, &c., &c.” “.Now then, who’s for the Colonist, —a full account of the loss of the Oscar—the last escort—public meeting —conference, &c. Here’s the last Witness —the latest news from Tuapeka—change in the Ministry—Sam Perkin’s mob, &c., &c. Thus do these indefatigable touters ply their trade, and serve in no small degree to add to the life and variety of the scene. Conference did not commence its session until Wednesday. The results of their deliberations have already been published, I shall therefore only refer to matters which are not embraced in the official account. On Monday evening we attended a meeting in the vestry of Knox’s Church, convened at the request of the Minister, for the purpose of appointing a deputation to visit the diggings, and assist in making provision for regular religious services for the benefit of the diggers. Knox Church is a commodious building of the chaste Grecian style. Its effect, however, is not what it would have been, had a more elevated site been chosen. It stands upon a flat, and this partially detracts from the appearance of this style of building. An impression seems to have gone abroad that the Presbyterians of Otago are somewhat narrow-minded, and inclined to bigotry. I cannot say I have heard any person attribute such characteristics to them; nevertheless I have been assured of the existence of such an impression, though I cannot speak positively of the source whence it arose. But, this I can say, that it is utterly groundless. I would that every settlement in New Zealand could boast of men equally liberal in their views, and expansive in their sympathies, as those who take the lead in the Presbyterian Church in Otago. Dunedin and its neighbourhood are highly favored in having such men as Dr. B. and Rev. Messrs. S,—W—, T—, and B—, and others to preside over them in spiritual things. The city ministers especially arc men of mark, and, though totally dissimilar in character, are admirably qualified to act beneficially one upon the other, and upon the community in which they dwell. The one, a venerable patriarchal looking man—the beau ideal of calm and concentrated power. The other, a large-hearted, impulsive man, full of activity, and zeal. The plan of operations decided on at the Monday night meeting sufficiently indicate the catholicity of the views entertained by the Presbyterians of Otago. The deputation to the diggings consisted of two ministers and six laymen, some of whom were Wesleyans. A special coach was engaged; and on Friday, after the business of the Conference was closed, the party started, stopping a night at Tokomairiro in their way. Irrespective of the interest attaching to the object m view, the journey itself was a pleasant and delightful trip. Comfortably seated in a covered van or omnibus, while a few of the party trotted along on their own nags, the deputation were combining pleasure with duty. Brother C was the life and soul of the expedition. Whether it was the bracing atmosphere, the novelty of the scenery, or the excitement of pleasant and agreeable associates, I cannot say, but he was 'in great force, and came out unusually strong. His fund of anecdote seemed inexhaustible, while his serio

.•. comic improvisations kept us in constant good humour. I wish I had preserved some notes of one of his extemporaueous effusions designed to set forth the genius and ; character of his country and countrymen. How eloquently he discanted upon the obligations that England and Englishmen were under to the Land o’ Cakes and her hardy sons. It was delicious to witness the gusto with which the patriotic egotist, half in earnest and half in jest, propounded and proved at least to his own satisfaction, a theory no less modest than this, that everything good, either in art, science, or literature, took its origin from Scotland or from Scotia’s sons, On Saturday evening the deputation reached their destination ; according to arrangement, some of them proceeded to Waitahuna and-Wcatherstone’s Gully, and the others to Tuapeka or Gabriel’s Gully. Divine Service was held simultaneously at different parts of the diggings, and notwithstanding the weather on Sunday morning was threatening rain, the attendance was good, and no settled congregations could be more quiet, orderly, and attentive, than these assemblages of toil-worn diggers who congregated in the open air to hear the Word of Life. At Waitahuna, after public service it had been arranged to hold a meeting in a billiard .room, the only place that appeared available, for the purpose of organizing a permanent agency for the maintenance of public worship. When the hour for meeting arrived, it was found that the billiard room could not be obtained. The New Zealand Bank, however, was about to commence business on the following day, and the Manager kindly offered the use ot his premises. The oiler was accepted, and the Bank of New Zealand at \\ aitehuna, was opened by singing the 100 th Psalm. The meeting was highly successful. Four resident diggers came forward as volunteers to assist in maintaining public worship and £SO was subscribed towards procuring a suitable canvas Church. At Gabriel’s Gully matters were equally encouraging. Many of the diggers entered warmly on the work, and in the evening, alter public service, a loung Men’s Christian Association was formed. When it is remembered that some of laymen from Otago, who assisted in this good were men engaged in business —rising up early and sitting up late in order to keep pace with the demands upon their time—and that they voluntarily absented the uselves from their ordinary lucrative avocations for three days in order to promote the best interests of their fellow men—it will at once be acknowledged "that narrow-mindedness cannot justly be charged against them. Nor can Ministers be considered bigoited who, when the services of regularly appointed Divines cannot be procured, are ready to countenance and encourage lay agents, rather than leave so many thousands destitute altogether of religious services.

Life is like a huge chequer board; the black squares of toil and trouble arc closely interspersed with the white squares of enjoyment. The trip to the diggings was a jaunt of pleasurable duty. The journey homewards, at least the greater portion of it, was a laborious necessity. On Monday morning the hills which environ Gabriel’s Gully were capped with threatening clouds, and long ere the deputation had completed the necessary precaution of fortifying themselves with a good breaklast, the rain descended in torrents. The effect speedily produced upon a line of country traversed only hy natural roads may be easily imagined. The coachman for some time was inclined to abandon the idea of making the attempt to convey his passengers along the slippery ridges. Several members of the deputation were anxious at all risks to proceed, because they had promised the minister of Tokomairiro to be present at, and take part in a public meeting to be held in his church on Monday evening. After many consultations, and with the understanding that the passengers were to relieve the horses by walking up and down the declivities, the coachman agreed to start. For many miles the opportunities of riding were few and far between, and the drenched and mirc-bcplashcd members of the deputation, as they toiled along, were not nearly so joyous or comfortable as during the outward journey. It was past noon e’er the Tuapeka contingent reached Waitahuna, where they expected to be joined by the rest of the party. Only one, however, was found waiting here. The other members of the deputation had departed, some on foot, some on horseback, under the impression, as the hour fixed for our arrival had long passed, that the weather had prevented us from starting. Our solitary brother, however, was not idling his time. Stowed away at the far end of a long tent, and surrounded by diggers, he was busily engaged in doing ample justice to a huge plateful of beef. Even the joyful surprise of the sudden appearance of his friends did not arrest his interesting occupation, but taking in a fresh mouthful of supplies, he mumbled out some thing which was understood to be a welcome, rather from the beaming expression o( his face, than the distinctness of his articulation. Example is contagious. The wet and weary arrivals were soon engaged in a similar manner, and after the cravings of hunger were satisfied, the journey was resumed under somewhat more favourable auspices. The road was less broken, and the rain had abated. The horses, however, were nearly knocked up, and notwithstanding the “ hi-hi-ing’’ and frequent application of the whip of the coachman, it was past six o’clock before we reached the hospitable manse of the minister of Tokomairiro. There was hardly time to swallow a cup of tea, and no time to change wet and travel-stained garments for more comfortable apparel, as the meeting was already convened, and the Chairman was becoming impatient. Flitting a good face upon it, we proceeded to the church, and soon forgot the discomforts of the day in the pleasurable excitement of a very happy, interesting meeting. At the close of the proceedings we paired off to the houses of different friends, who appeared as glad to receive us, and minister to our wants, as we were to receive their kind hospitalities. A good night’s rest, after the fatigues of the day, was an invaluable restorative. Doubtless the majority of the deputation found it to be so, and if there was a single exception, it was not owing to the absence of any of the usual incentives to repose—a good bed and a sense of weariness. Some joking, however, was going on in the morning which seemed to imply that somebody had passed the night without sleep, because one moment he was alternately paralysed with fear lest his companion should choke, and the next, convulsed with laughter at motions and efforts which could only be compared to a tyro attempting to blow the bassocn. At Tokomairiro I was separated for a time from the rest of my companions. They resumed their journey towards Dunedin, while I turned my face towards Invercargill. I afterwards learned that my friends reached their destination wiihout further mishaps, and that during the interval before the arrival of the Airedale, they visited East Taieri, and had a very pleasant meeting with the friends of that district. On various occasions, when one of my esteemed colleagues addressed the Presbyterians of Otago, he did not forget to allude to the disinterested services rendered by Bishop S n to the Presbyterian mission in the New Hebrides, and the result was, that the sum of fifty pounds was contributed by the friends at Otago and Taieri, to be presented to His Lordship, as a token of their esteem. After the departure of my friends, I set about my preparations tor a ride to Invercargill. Through the kindness of my host at Tokomairiro, Mr. S , I was supplied with a good horse, saddle-bags, and other travelling requisites, with full and sufficient directions for the road. I have travelled a good deal in my time, and met with many kind friends and hospitable entertainers, but I never met with so much kindness from entire strangers as from my kind host and hostess, at Tokomairiro.

Tokomainro is an extensive plain, one of the few districts of Otago which came under my notice, possessing facilities for agricultural pursuits. The land is mostly of good quality and level, though timber is not very abundant. After leaving Tokomairiro, the road passes along an undulating country, covered with natural grass, until you reach the river Molyneaux. This river is of considerable bicadth, and the current, always running seawards, is strong. This has enabled the Government to establish a ferry on a principle which not only saves labour, but affords a rapid transit to goods and passengers. A cable is stretched across the stream from shore to shore, at a considerable elevation. Un this there is a double traveller, with tackles at'achcd. The punt is fastened to the tackles, one or other of which, according to the direction in which the passage is to be made, is drawn taut, so as to present the broadside obliquely to the stream. The current, acting upon the punt, sets the travellers on the cable in motion, and passengers are whirled across with astonishing rapidity. Having crossed the Molyneaux, the traveller is now in the district of Clutha. To the right the country stretches away, far as the eye can reach, in a succession of broken undulating ranges, all covered with natural grass, while to the left are patches of forest and portions of more level land. From the Clutha, ascending to the pass of Topotuna, and on to the Mataura river, the present boundary of the Otago province, the face of the country is rugged and broken —destitute of timber; but luxuriantly clothed with natural grass. The mind of the traveller is irresistibly led to the conclusion, that, with such internal resources, Otago must have been a great and wealthy country even without the assistance of her gold fields. During my ride I was privileged to make the acquaintance of several settlers in the interior. At Fopotuna, where I passed the night, I was most hospitably entertained by Mr. S . I was fortunate enough on the road to overtake the liev. Mr. S , of Invercargill, so that during the remainder of the ride I had the advantage of his guidance and the pleasure of his company. The monotony of the journey was frequently broken by our meeting straggling groups of diggers returning

from their bootless expedition to the Blue Mountain.. This hoax has become matter of history. A t<s law named Sam. Perkins, an old whaler who had taken nP his abode in the neighbourhood ot Foveaux s btraits prior to the colonization of the country, gi e ‘ plausible tongue, and notorious for shn,, =■ hatchet,” contrived to persuade some miners at iuapeka, that he was in possession of a golden secret, one more valuable than any grains of the prectou * they could collect at Gabriel’s Gully. He ' spot, at the foot of the Blue Mountains, where „old existed in such quantities, that it might be ta 'C P table spoons! The miners are proverbially an excitable race. The news of Sam. Perkins’s communication spread abroad like wild-fire, and a “ rush, compris g some 500 men, was the consequence, bam. was me leader of the expedition. For a time all things went smoothly. The caravan was stocked with creature comforts of every kind, and Sam. was regarde as a man to be treated with the best of every thing, doubtless led a very easy, pleasant life. Every night when the expedition halted, Sam. being properly primed with noblers, would mount one ol tho drays, and harrangue his deluded followers, pointing out in glowing terms, the glory and the fortune to which he was leading them. As time advanced, his position became critical. The locality in which a golden harvest was to be reaped was close at hand. 1 revisions were running short, and the miners were becoming impatient. Every hour their questions were more pointeu and urgent. Suspicion was awakened, and shortly confirmed by the fact that Sam. was detected in an attempt to abscond without notice. The revulsion of feeling was instantaneous. Disappointment and rage filled the mind and distorted the countenance of every digger. Sam.’s life was in imminent danger. At first it was resolved to hang him on the first convenient tree. Fortunately for him, and for the miners themselves, they were prevented from acting under the impulse of the moment. Attached to the party was a Mr. K , who had acquired a long Australian experience, aud who, moreover, was possessed of considerable mental power. He mounted a dray, aud harrangued the infuriated dupes. Will out openly opposing their thirst for vengeance, he persuaded them to inflict it deliberately and with regard to justice. He urged a trial by jury, which was at length consented to. Following up his advantage, he selected a dozen of the most staid and temperate men to act as jurors. The trial was then commenced, and being artfully protracted, so as to give time for their passions of the disappointed diggers to down, resulted finally in a sentence far more lenient than might have been expected. Sam. was first shorn of his hair and beard, then stripped, tied up, and severely thrashed. Every one admitted that the sentence was mild compared with the deserts of the culprit. It was pitiable to see the poor miners, foot-sore and weary, bending under the weight of heavy “ swags,” retracing their steps, depressed in spirits by the consciousness that, after spending perhaps all their previous earnings in making provision tor the bootless journey, they only returned to find the claims they had abandoned occupied by others. After fording the Mataura, the character of the country is entirely changed. You cross an extensive grassy flat, bordering the river, at the extremity of which is a range of low hills. Ascending these hills, you gain a plateau of considerable extent, mainly covered, as usual, with grass, but thickly studded with belts and patches of timber. Having crossed this, you traverse another low range of hills, and reach a much more extensive plateau, of similar character, stretching away in front to New River, on the banks of one of the upper forks of which stands the infant township of Invercargill. 1 imber is abundant in the immediate locality; in fact some of the town allotments are still covered with bush, —New Zealand bush, not scrub, and some of the houses in town are yet partially concealed by the numerous trees which grow around them. Every object about the place, and its appearance generally, indicates immaturity. As a settlement Invercargill has not passed beyond the dawn of existence, but it is a dawn which gives piomise of a brilliant day. In my opinion Southland has a future before it of no mean eminence. It is, without exception, the most extensive level district in New Zealand I have seen, and combines within its borders land suitable both for agricultural and pastoral pursuits. It is a great mistake, however, to cling to the idea of Invercargill becoming eventually iho maritime capital of the province. The Bluff, a harbour of unrivalled excellence, is the natural port, and ultimately Campbell Town must become the focus of foreign trade. I spent several pleasurable days at Invercargill, and met with many old acquaintance, formerly denizens of Auckland. Capt. H , bustling and busy as ever, bids fair, not only to be a great acquisition to the province, but to acquire for himself the honourable distinction of a clever, useful man. Besides others, I saw Mr. S —-, who appears to have greatly improved under the bracing influence of the climate of “ Ultima Thule,” and occasionally astonishes the natives with a genuine literary “ Southern Buster.” The Presbyterian cause at Invercargill, like settlement itself, is yet comparatively weak. The church is presided over by the Rev. Mr. S • to whoso kind and hospitable attentions I was much indebted. The congregation, for the present, meet in the school-house, but the place is becoming too small for the members who attend. Steps are in progress for the erection of a suitable church and manse. On my return from Invercargill, I staid a night at East Taieri, under the roof of the Rev. Mr. W——, a man of considerable mental power, and of most cordial manners. From Taieri I was compelled to walk, having left my horse to be returned to the owner. The roads were excessively heavy, owing to recent rain, and I was not sorry when I once more crossed the threshhold of my kind enteitainers at Dunedin. Here I had leisure to recruit. My colleagues had sailed the day before in the Airdale, for Nelson, and the Lord Worsley was not expected for several days. The interval, however, did not hang heavy on my hands. I had plenty of serious occupation, aud frequent invitations to the houses of various friends. The few idle moments at command were by no means unpleasantly, though, perhaps, they might have been more profitably employed, than in lolling in a very easy chair with the « Woman in White” to entertain me. At length the Lord Worsley made her appearance, aud, after a narrow escape of being left behind, owing to the crowded state of the tug boat, I took leave of my friends, and was once more eu route for Auckland. We called, as usual, at the intermediate ports, taking in one of my colleagues at Lyttleton. We arrived at Wellington on Christmas eve. Owing probably to the members who were keeping holiday, the town seemed partially deserted, and was duller than ever. It was not a very merry time with me. I was seated all alone in the large room of the Commercial Hotel: the lio-bt of a solitary candle scarcely penetrated the distant recesses of the huge apartment; and, in the mysterious gloom, the quaint pictures and ornaments, dimly discernible, seemed to be endowed with life and motion, and appeared to be making faces at my ml Christmas-day, however, made amends. I was kindly invited to join" the family circle of the good Mr. H With my feet under his mahogany, of course [did not neglect the performance of a duty which every Englishman seems to consider sacred—-the demolition of a sufficient quantity of roast beef and plum pudding. . - , , Wc left Wellington in the afternoon, and had not made much way before we encountered a gale so unusually severe, that we were compelled to take shelter for several hours in Port Hady. The next morning early we reached Nelson. It was far too early for the Nelsonians to be stirring; but I and my reverend colleague found work to do, which, if not strictly legal, was very pleasant and sweet; we robbed the orchards of some of our friends. I was proceeding quietly onward towards the residence of my former host, nothing further from my thoughts than the commission of petty larceny, and quite unconscious of the fact that temptation was at hand. My colleague hailed, and invited me to join him in an inroad upon the cherries and gooseberries of the sleepy inmates of one of the suburban mansions. It was not for me to make such an invitation a case of conscience. Coming from such a quarter, I concluded it was right. Moreover, being perfectly in accordance with my own taste I at once complied, and we revelled in the spoils of many a goodly tree and bush. It is only proper, however to add, that the drowsy proprietors, when fully awake to the atrocity of our proceedings, highly commended us for our daring, and authorised us to repeat the ofience as often as we pleased. At Nelson the original party was again complete, by the accession of our other colleague. Wc spent the next day in examining the College, and other public offices. The first-named institution is a credit to the colony. Every attention seems to have been paid to the comfort of the inmates and I have no doubt it will take first rank amongst the future academic foundations of New Zealand Nelson and Wellington are far in advance of Auckland with respect to the character of their public buildings Wc have nothing at all to be compared to the buildings which they have erected for the convenience and accommodation oi their respective w(j wcie i nformcd t ], at r t h - amongst other improvements in the management of the Company’s boats, ohad provided . “ Passengers’ Observation Book,” m which they were requested to note down any thing they might deem execution able, or capable of improvement. This book was paced before me by the steward with a request that I would “ break the ice,” by recording my opinion

and experience. " But I have nothing particular to say” I replied. “Oh, never mind, sir, wnte anything you like, so long as you don’t abuse the stew w ■ Thus appealed to, I sat down and wrote something to the following effect: “The comfort of passengers on board the Lord Worsley would be much enhanced if more attention were paid to the state of ™ wat tanks. The water is very strongly impregnated with iron-rnst, and the tea and cofieo genera ly arci not drinkable. In other respects there is nothing to com plain of. The courtesy and attention of the captain, officers, and steward are highly exemplary. Now it happened that, several times on the out ward trip, I could not force myself to imbibe the beverage provided for breakfast. The te V - f solution of lead, and the coffee was like a ? n mahogany saw-dust; consequently I was g J some of my fellow voyagers,-on more than one occasion, I believe, Capt. H— — hmise cussing a bottle of claret, at the meal. . Some wag having noticed what I had w book, and remembering that I had occasionally adopted the French fashion of drinking claret at breaUa £ wrote some verses immediately under my tea ere r ja cate, which might convey the idea that I was too rnuch addicted to the French custom. lam satisfied that the writer, whoever he was, did no ‘ to calumniate, and that I need not fear the consequence of his humorous escapade. As lam fond o a J > I have no hesitation in quoting the jeu d esprit. -U e couplet ran as follows : Ah ! Mr. I see the drift Of your polite remark. Vou need not think to hoouwink me, Or keep your weakness darkThe breakfast beverage and tea Is not as one would have it; But this gives you a good excuse To indulge your taste for claret. I have no doubt Captain’H wifi have a hcartj laugh over the commencement of his “Passengers Observation Book,” and if the experiment is persevered in, the volume ultimately will, in all probability, be little inferior to Punch. From Nelson we had a tolerably good run, and after a short sojourn at Taranaki, we once more entered Manukan Heads, and in a few hours were at home. , . Thus ended a trip, which, independently ot tne interest attaching to its primary object, was a source of much pleasure and enjoyment. It brought us in contact with many estimable men, and gave us an opportunity of correcting an impression—too liable to gain ascendency in the minds of those who seldom travel—that nothing equally good is to be found beyond the bounds of their own sphere of action. And thus end my random recollections. In the “ Stray leaves from my note book,” hurriedly written and without premeditation, many errors and omissions will doubtless be found; but I trust they contain nothing that can justly give offence, as I am sure they contain nothing intentionally designed to disparage or give pain.