THE GARDEN.

Manawatu Standard, Volume LIV, Issue 306, 23 November 1934, Page 9

THE GARDEN.

Notes are published under this heading, and readers interested in gardening are invited to send in questions relating to matters upon which they wish expert advice; answers will be published with the weekly notes.

ROSE DISEASES,

“Rosegrower” says; “Would you kindly give some effective sprays for the various pests these plants are heir to. My plants in some cases are covered with little white specks which are easily moved with the finger-nail. Are they injurious or otherwise?” These white specks which you refer to are evidently the white scale which very often attacks these plants and spreads over some varieties very rapidly. They are decidedly injurious and if left unchecked they will stop the growth of the plant. Unfortunately, at this time of the year, they are undoubtedly hard to deal with because if you spray the bushes with a mixture strong enough to kill them you will defoliate the plant and perhaps kill it. If only a few of the plants are attacked red oil_ emulsion could be applied with a paint brush, taking care not to get any on the foliage. Mix one part of the red emulsified oil with twenty parts of soapy water. Stir it up thoroughly and apply carefully to the old wood with a paint brush. You may not kill all the scale, but you will check it considerably, and can deal with it in the winter by spraying when the plants are dormant. Unfortunately, this trouble is very largely on the increase, and the common sweet-briar growing by the roadside has been found to be badly affected. If you have any of these round your garden chop them out and burn them at once. Mildew and black leaf spot are a troublesome pair, but fortunately they can be kept in check by careful spray-

ing. The winter when the plants are dormant is the time to begin by killing the spores or mycelium. We have found lime-sulphur very good and advise its use at least twice during the dormant season—first as soon as the plants have lost nearly all tl/eir leaves and again directly after they have been pruned before growth has had a chance to begin. Use this stuff at a strength of one part of the lime-sul-phur to sixteen parts of water. Spray both the ground and the plants thoroughly. When growth begins continue the good work by spraying but the mixture must be very much weaker —one part of the lime-sulphur to one hundred and sixty parts of water. Another good remedy is two ounces of liver of sulphur to four gallons of water, and spray about every fourteen days. Another good spray can be made by mixing one ounce of bicarbonate of soda with one gallon of water and spraying with this. Sulphur sprinkled on the soil of the rose bed during the hot summer is another good remedy and when the daily heat rises to 70 deg. it gives off fumes which destroy the mycelium. Aphides are small green insects which attack the plants when the growth is young and succulent, but if a quarter of a pound of soft soap is dissolved in hot water, enough to make up to five gallons, and the plants sprayed with this two or three times at intervals of three days you will have very little to fear from this trouble. The main thing is. to keep the soil well worked so that growth is strong and active. SULPHATE OF POTASH.

There are still plenty ot people who do not know the value of sulpnate of potash as a help towards controlling diseases. This stulf can be bougno in large or small quantities and is used at the rate ot one tablespoonful to a plant at the present time. It is scattered on the ground round the plants and hoed in. if it does not rain soon after it has been applied, water it in. Next month do the same thing again and you will find that mildew and black spot do not get the same hold on the plants, as it is well known that this chemical hardens up the cuticle of the leaves. When one begins to use these things there opens up a big field for those who would like to try some investigations on their own. The main thing to avoid is nitrate of soda which only causes luscious growth. In some soils sulphate of magnesia (Epsom salts) works wonders and about a quarter of an ounce given to each bush will help. This stuff is very cheap when bought in bulk. We have also found that superphosphate is another thing that can be used to advantage when the others are given. Two ounces to the square yard of surface is enough. Some growers have found sulphate of ammonia most useful when given in very small quantities, but as this stuff is ineffective in some soils we have to leave this to the grower to find out for himself. A LETTER. A correspondent says: “1 have noticed that you do not recommend watering plants, but what else is one to do ? it I leave my soil for a few days it gets so hard and dry that I have to get a sledgehammer to break it up. It is all lumpy and very dry. Now I hear that our city fathers are putting a restriction on the use of the nose and I know many of the plants will die. They cannot stand this hot weather. Aiso, is there any tvay in which roses can be retarded Y The show is very late this season and I cannot stop the plants f rom blooming, and shall have none to show; but 1 should like to know if there is anything one can do for future seasons.”

The question of watering is one that we have discussed fairly often and we do not think that there has ever been an occasion when we have advised anyone to use water from the main, except perhaps w r hen forcing established plants or growing salading plants. The whole question of soil cultivation is bound up in the above question, and land that is deeply dug and well broken up for planting will hold water w'ell as long as the surface is kept -well cultivated. Many gardeners use water in preference to hoeing, but this is not gardening in its true sense. If you can manage to break up your soil on the surface to a depth of three or four inches and keep it well cultivated we do not thing you will lose very much. Of course, plants that are set out now will require a , little watei to start them going, but do not give them any more than they actually need; as soon as the surface dries, keep it lioed. There is no actual way in which you can retard the growth of your rose blooms. You could prune later in the season, but it may happen that next season will be a cold one and the show may be held much earlier, and then there will be frantic appeals to know how to force the roses on. One thing that is necessary is that a horticultural society should fix the date of its show at least six months ahead and stick to that date. Growers would then know what is expected of them and act accordingly. In reference to mulching, we are quoting from a letter received some months back in which the writer says: “I have tried several things for mulching plants in my garden, but I must say that the most satisfactory thing I have used was a heap of old sacks cut so that they would run lengthwise in the rows. After watering, I laid them on the ground and they stopped evaporation at once. When rain threatened they were rolled together in the centres of the rows and were very little trouble to manage. The plants grew well, especially chrysanthemums and dahlias.” We have not tried this plan, but see no reason why it should not work well. One thing about it is that young weeds would be stifled, but to have a garden covered with sacks might not appeal to everybody. A similar plan has been adopted with paper in some countries. ROSE SHOWS. The rose show held by the Hutt Valley Horticultural Society last week was a wonderful success. The right day was struck by most of tlie exhibitors and some remarkable blooms were set up. One thing that is very pleasing to note is that at this show the old boards have been discarded and all blooms are shown with their natural foliage on stems twelve or more inches in length. The weather had been very kind to exhibitors, and there was hardly a bloom that showed any signs of discolouration. There were three large tables filled with blooms, besides sundry other exhibits in which roses were included. The Governor-General opened the show, and in a very happy little speech he said that an ideal rose to liis mind should have form, colour, and scent, the last of these being most essential. After declaring the show open he went round and examined each entry with the knowledge of a connisseur. The Wanganui show was held last Friday, but the blooms were not as good as those' at the Hutt. The extremely hot day was too much for

many of them, which went very flat before the day was nearly over. One particularly fine exhibit at this show was of Australian and Cape of Good Hope flowers. One spike or flower of a protea resembled a crown and was very much admired by all visitors. Another fine section at this show was the decorative class. THE VEGETABLE GARDEN.

The vegetable garden is feeling the effects of the excessive heat experienced last week, but it is more noticeable where water has been used to excess and the hoe discarded. The only plants which need watering are lettuces, and plants such as tomatoes, pumpkins and marrows i which have been just set out. Give them enough water to establish them and then work the soil.

Peas and beans sown now should be soaked in water before being put in the di'ills and the drill can then be filled in. Limed ground is necessary for both these crops and can be dusted along the drills on top of the seed. Tomatoes can still be planted, and if they are taken from a box the 6oil should be well soaked with water so that each one can bo lifted with a good ball of earth attached to the roots. Such crops as beet and silver beet will respond to a dusting of salt along the rows. Those who have tried this find that the beets are the richer for it.

Keep the weeds down between the rows of all growing crops and thin them out before it is too late. Potatoes will be all tlio better for a second earthing up if the first one has been done. The second one helps to kill all weeds and also helps the plants to form tubers quicker than if only half-earthed up or when this work has been neglected. Asparagus beds should not be cut after this month; allow the plants to grow so that the following season’s crop will not be harmed. SPRAYING.

Careful consideration must be given to spraying, especially for codlin moth. This insect flourishes in a dry season like the present one and every care should be taken to guard against it. Assuming that the first spraying has been done, the following spray should be made up: Lime sulphur, a quarter of a pint to four gallons of water, plus two ounces of arsenate of lead, and a spreader which can be bought at any seedsman or spray-selling store. Milk of lime should be added to prevent foliage scorch. Milk of lime is made by putting about four ounces of burnt lime in a bucket and pouring enough water on it to slake it. When thoroughly slaked, which may take from one to two hours, and about a gallon of water and mix up thoroughly and allow the water to settle, when it can be poured through a fine cloth strainer. Use about a quart of this to four gallons of spray. Keep the mixture well stirred while using. The success of a spray depends upon having it as fine as possible and the force it is applied with. A good, clean spray pump gives better work than a dirty one, so after use see that the pump and other utensils are cleaned out with clean water before being put away. Rain water is better than that from the main, and should always be used where it can be got.