EVEREST CLIMB

Manawatu Standard, Volume XLIV, Issue 1053, 27 June 1924, Page 5

EVEREST CLIMB

THE FINAL AS&AULT. TERRIBLE DIFFICULTIES. By Electric Telegraph.—Copyright. Received June 27, 10,5 a.m. LONDON, June 26. Major Norton, of the Everest expedition, in a despatch dated June 8, from the camp at a lieight of 21,000 feet east of the Rongbuk glacier, relates that the almost superhuman difficulties of the final assault, especially the demeanour of the native porters, were enough to daunt the hardiest spirits. It had been already decided to modify the original plan owing to the morel and physical exhaustion ot the native porters. It was anticipated that a few would have been available to assist the climbers above 23,000 feet, and that the climbers would discard oxygen for at least two attempts to reach the summit, sleeping two nights on the mountain above 23,000 feet. The weather then was almost perfect, and the peak stood out clear cut in the azure sky. The symptoms of the monsoon had disappeared, but the explorers knew the monsoon might at any moment burst with full force.

Fifteen picked porters, distinguished by the name of tigers, were assembled and the stage set for the final attempt. The weather continuing perfect, Messrs Mailory and Captuin Bruce and nine of the tigers established a camp on the North Col on June 1 and began the ascent of the great north ridge on the 2nd in order to establish camp number live, but suddenly the bitter north-west wind nearly blew the porters off their feet. Progress was one long fight against the wind and altitude, sometimes on the rock and some-tii-.es on the snow at an angle of 45 degrees. It was hoped to establish camp five on the sheltered side of the ridge at 25,300 feet. At 25,000 feet the endurance of the porters began to flag and only four reached tlie camp, and the remaining five dropped their burdens. Captain Bruce and one tiger were forced to make several trips to bring up the stores. White men cannot carry loads at these altitudes with impunity, and it was scarcely to be wondered at that Captain Bruce's heart was strained, though happily only temporarily. Thus camp five was finally established. Three picked porters were retained and the remainder sent back. Obviously everything- depended upon the morale and physical condition of these three.

Captain Bruce's persuasive powers failed to arouse their enthusiasm for the morrow's task; the wind seemed to hove killed their spirits. On the morrow it was intended to make an early start, but while preparing breakfast they obtained the most unwelcome news that only one porter was fit to proceed. The other two orofessed to be sick and totally unable to carry the loads. It ws> fairly evident that the three porters had "sliot their bolt," so after a brief consultation it was decided to return to camp four and consider plans for a further attempt.

This despatch covers the movement of the expedition just prior to Messrs Mallory and Irvine starting on their final attempt for the summit. —Times.

MOUNTAINEERING ACCIDENT

LONDON, June 25.

Latest Everest despatches staie that native porters saws Messrs Mallory and Irvine on June 7 going strongly towards the summit. They had apparently attained 28,000 feet on the morning of June 8, but after that there was no news of them, though other members of the expedition endeavoured by signals and flames to obtain tidings. Major Norton expresses the opinion that the tragedy was due to a simple mountaineering accident, not to the weather. —A. and N.Z. cable.