THE GARDEN.

Lyttelton Times, Volume CIX, Issue 13122, 9 May 1903, Page 3

THE GARDEN.

WORK FOR THE WEEK. Kitchen Garden.—As the remains of vegetable crops are cleared away the ■ ground should be trenched, if possible. This is more important on heavy land than on light, but in any case the bottom soil should only be turned over, not brought to . the surface, as is too often, done. If not wanted at once it should be thrown up in ridges, to expose as much of the surface to the weather as possible. All brown leaves should be collected from the brassica family, as they upt only look untidy and smell offensively, bub are injurious to the crops. A decaying leaf on Brussels sprout* will soon render the buttons quite unfit to eat, especially during wet' weather. Protect heads of cauliflower by patting a few leaves over them. These will nob only keep the frosts away, but will also prevent the sun turning the flower brown and making it strong in flavour. Turnips have made wonderful growth during the last few weeks, and as on rich land there is a danger of their getting too large, the biggest should be taken up and stored' for future use. Keep the surface soil disturbed by hoeing when the weather permits. Asparagus beds should be cleaned and put tidy. ■ On light soil the beds may be manured at ' once, but on heavy land it is better to manure in the spring. A sowing of broad beans may be made on a warm, dry border; Mazagan is the earliest. Celery.— Hard frosts may bo expected at any timenow, therefore get all that is well-developed finally moulded up at once, selecting a dry ,/j day for the work. Potatoes that are still in the ground should be lifted at once. Seakale should be introduced to the mush-room-house or a warm frame to force it, but remember this vegetable requires very little heat—a high temperature will destroy the kale instead of forcing it into growth.' Rhubarb will soon be wanted, and preparations should be made for forcing a few roots. Small salad should be raised in boxes, and every necessary attention given to lettuce and endive. Hardy Fruits.—Priming apples and pears should be pushed forward on every oppor- •■ ■■■ tunity, and finished, if possible, before the leaves have all fallen. As regards method, it would take too much space to give detailed information as to how to operate on each variety, bub the following general principles will serve for most: — . Thin out the tree where the branches .are crowded, as the tree cannot give good fruit on branches that are so close to each other that the sun. and air cannot pass through. Remove all branches which cross ■ or rub against each other, and cut out all dead or decaying branches. Each branch should he cut back to an eye (or bud) that points in an outward direction. A study of each variety is absolutely necessary, because they have different habits of growing and bearing, and unless these differences are known the bearing of the tree may be impaired. If possible, the same man should prune the trees every season; then he can make a study of each variety from year to year, and notice the result of different treatment. All cuts should bs made with a keen-edged knife or secateurs, and if any branches are sawn off the saw-cut should be pared off smoothly with a sharp knife—a smootbq clean cut heals up much quicker than a rough one. Preparations for planting the various kinds of fruit trees should now be completed, either for autumn or spring planting. One of the most important items in this matter is drainage, especially on flat, low country, where the soil is apt to get waterlogged during the winter. If no other means exist for draining the soil, throw it up in ridges and plant the trees on these ridges, so that their roots will be above the point that the subsoil water reaches during the winter months. Greenhouse.—Bulbs.—(Many of the bulbs that were potted and plunged under ashes will now be well rooted, and the earliest varieties should be removed to a warm sunny frame as soon as possible. They must be shaded with a little light material, for a few days, until the growth turns green. . All the pots will not be ready to bring out, but they all should be examined, because if any are left under the ashes too' long, the ends of the foliage will bo destroyed. Careful watering . will bo necessary, and a few pots of the earliest varie—ties should be put into a warm frame, to hurry them along. Bpiraaa Japonica and S. Astilboides should be potted up directly the roots are lifted. Although not growing, they suffer much harm if left in a dry, ' state-.very long. These plants do not require very large pots, bub rich soil is a necessity. Stand them in a cool frame, and introduce a few plants at a time to the forcing-pit. Solomon’s . Seal.—Although this plant is not often seen in a pot, it makes a capital forcing subject. Its delicate green and quaint, sweet-scented flowers make it a favourite when seen early in the. spring months. Another good plant for forcing for decorative pmrposes is Dielytra spectabilis. Its long racemes of flowers and femlike foliage make this one of the best r plants for spring decorations. Winter , flowering carnations are just sending up their flower buds, and need careful and constant attention. Plenty of fresh air and ■ a moderate supply of water will keep them i in good health. Tire Hardy Fernery.—Ferns are beginning to present the usual shabby appearance, as the plants are resting for the winter. The brown fronds (should be allowed to remain as long as possible, as their removal rbbs the plants of their natural pro- , tection against severe frosts. The hardy fernery cannot be kept according to the , laws of tidiness during the months of. Slay :: and dune, as the decaying fronds not only afford some protection from severe frost, but are of service to the crowns until the new set of fronds begin to grow, in'the spring. This is a good time to give the surface a mulch of fresh compost, consisting of peat, leaf mould and rotted turf.