TRIP TO THE CHATHAMS

Lyttelton Times, Volume CIX, Issue 13122, 9 May 1903, Page 3

TRIP TO THE CHATHAMS

THE ROMPING SEA. FISH AND FOWL. AN ARCADIAN COMMUNITY. (By T.E.T.) The fact that comparatively few New Zealanders have ever seen this remote outpost of their colony, the occasional interesting descriptive article contributed to the newspaper Press by some adventurous soul who had wandered that far, the connection with the To Koofci naval romance, those and other disconnected causes had developed a growing desire in me to sco these regions for myslf. Perhaps the fact that their names touched upon England's great commoner may have entered into the matter, but a tangible business affair was principally the motive for the visit. At various times certain residents of the Islands, and some of the occasional visitors referred to, have pleaded eloquently that the Chat-hams possessed by land and s6a potential wealth, awaiting development. Without personally possessing the capital that would prove the touch-stone to unlosc (ho alleged wealth, I allowed the mixture of reasons named and the need for a- few , days’ change to decide the question of visiting (ho Chatham Islands. Tno last Canterbury visitor to the islands whoso impression had interested me very much was Mr George Laurenson, the genial member for Lyttelton. A little over two years ago he made .holiday in the Chathams for a few days. Listening to the charm of his oratory, the seductive character of which may 'be judged by the inexplicable power ho wields over the votes of such an intelligent constituency as Lyttelton, I agreed to join him in a. second visit. Frequent migration from tho south to the North Island, and a more extended sea, voyage upon a modern floating city, •had engendered in my mind the idea that sea-sickness was a malady which in future I would not personally experience. I was prepared to sympathise with its victims. During the past week I could have consumed a, shipload morp sympathy over my own sufferings than I ever had the chance of dispensing to others. “Toroa” is, I am told, the equivalent in Maori of “young albatross.” The. sturdy skipper of the s.s. Toroa is more like a young albatross than is the staunch little vessel he commands so ably. Let me say no word to disparage so tight a craft, let me never utter a word but by way of sincere admiration of the crew, from tho chief officer to tho cabin boy. If the Toroa had been even a young albatross—a very young one—her flight over the five, hundred miles of the South Pacific dividing New Zealand from her most eastern domain would have been something approaching the heavenly when compared with the extended agony inflicted by the elements upon undeserving youth. When the real assumes such solid dimensions no appeal is necessary to the imagination. Thanks to thej admirable enterprise of the übiquitous but genial reporters for the Christchurch newspapers, the intended visit to the Chathams became a. little exciting even before we set foot on the deck of our latest tormentor. . Scores of friends, for a month prior to the second instant, were solicitous as to when wc were leaving for the Islands. Two forced postnonements of our departure gave many a legitimate excuse for inquiries as to how wc had enjoyed the trip. Crowds got the little excursion confused with the stately legislative exploring expedition.—tho .sorb of modern South Sea Bubble which has just left these shares for Raratonga. A few ventured the opinion that they thought 1 was a better democrat than to go on such a gorgeous picnic at the public expense. One or two friends, with the curio-collect-tor’s unblushing confidence, asked ino to remember that they voted for me at the general election, and bring thorn back a few spedments of choice coral and shells; whilst one or two lady friends, whose domestic peace has been perturbed by the servant-girl problem, pleaded with me to save their grey hairs from becoming blanched white, and bring back reliable information as to whether there are any considerable number of the women of the Cook or Solomon Islands suitably educated for at once entering domestic service in this colony. Tho suave replies which political ■responsibility and expediency dictated were tendered to each and all, and on Monday morning I .packed my bag for an absence of eight or nine days from home comforts. Tho power that rides upon the storm was not observant of our plans. We were ready, the s.s. Toroa was ready also, but one of the raging sou’-westers, so prevalent in this part of New Zealand since tho Discovery commenced to proud mound Antarctica, was loosed, and Tuesday saw tho steamer still moored snugly in Lyttelton, and wc as snugly in touch with civilisation. Wednesday was also devoted to the sou’wester. Thursday, the sou’-wester eased off, and the Toroa slipped away from her moorings about half-past ten in the evening. The easterly breeze that- succeeded the sou’-wester should have suppressed the raging seas romping up from the south, but instead it entered into partnership with its southern fx-iend, ahd, before the Toroa crept out beyond the Long Look-out Point, a sort of marine haka was being danced, into -which the Toroa plunged with her five passengers, her captain and crew, and her cargo, amongst -which were three aristocratic merino rams and other quadrupeds whose ancestors hailed from Berkshire, and whose descendants journeyed eastward to raise on to a higher plane, the degenerate descendant.,', of Captain Cook. That other voyager's due East have experienced such torture as fell to our lot. on this occasion, would seem probable; if a story may bo believed which is current in Lyttelton. It is said a lesuon in dictation was in progress in the public school. When the teacher inspected the work, lie found one youngster had written—-‘-"While on the tide! we gently float, And groan to the deep sea’s echoing note.’’ “Chant! boy, not groan,” said the teacher, to which the boy replied—- “ Please sir, I have been to tho Chatham Island, on the Toroa.” “Ah!” said tho teacher, “in that case it is ‘groan.’” Two days and two nights, are usually occupied in tho voyage from. Lyttelton to the Chathams. When the third day and third night had passed, the _ skipper was feeling about for land with extreme caution. Ho and his chief officer, the one from the Western Isles, and the other from the Highlands, were plainly anxious to make a landfall. Since leaving Lyttelton, the nor’eastcr had been relentless. No glimpse of tho sun had been vouchsafed them; the heavy drift gave an outlook of about a milo,_ and from the third to the fourth day, the Toroa dodged about at about quarter to half speed, in her efforts to find land. Had we been on board one of the Atlantic greyhounds, costing a mil- , lion of money, the skipper and his chief officer could not have exercised greater diligence. ' They must almost have smelt land, for wo were practically hove to the fifth night., and just after daybreak, the cry of Land' Ho ! and the signal full steam ahead, ■ came as a joyful sound to all hands. The first land sighted was “Sail Rock,” to east, of Pitt Island.. Sail Rock is most appropriately named ; at first sight everyone imagines he has decried a schooner in full sail. The fog still clung to and entirely obscured Pitt Island, from which the Sail rock is only a short distance. As we sped towards Wadtangi, the principal lauding place on the main island, wo had a magnificent view of Sentry Reef. (situated a few miles off’ the main land, just at the eastern end of Pitt Strait, the reef is also well named. When we passed, the full stroke of tho ocean and the swirl of the tide running through Pitt Strait contended with the reef, resulting nx a beautiful but merciless looking column of white spray, rising to a height of sixty feet. Human strength, skill, or prayer, would prove fruitless to the -mariner cast on to this sinister reef. Yet it is most beautiful in its angriest moo'd, but it is a repellant beauty. Very soon after passing Sentry

Reef we were palely anchored off Waitangi, and every (house within view of the 'bay sent its representative to form the group ready to welcome t'ho oil launch directly it touched the jetty. Th® main island has only one secure natural harbour —Whangaroa. It is situated at the northern end of Petrie Bay. Waitangi, provided with jetty and landing sheds, is, ' however, the recognised capital of the islands. The main island contains about 225,000 acres, of which the great To Whanga la.goan occupies about 45,000 acres. The island is not mountainous. At the southern end, abutting upon Pitt Strait, the cliffs are from 600 to 700 ft high, and that represents about the greatest altitude. Tho land is very varied in quality. There is a fair portion of poor fern land 1 , hub much _ is of excellent quality, especially the portion carving tush, represented by about 40,000 acres. The principal trees fn the bush nr© tho kanaka and ako ake. The Maoris number about 200 souls, and represent about half tho total population of the islands. They are proprietors of a large part bf the main island. Sheep farming is the principal, and practically the only, industry in the Chathams. Until the last few years, the communication with New Zealand] was so irregular that the sheep were only bred for their wool. Subject to frequent, and ofttimes violent, fluctuations in value as wool is, tho lot of the wool-grower at the Chathams was most uncertain. When the sheep had yielded its maximum of wool it .was fit to' be slaughtered and cast into the sea. 'No incentive to improve the breed existed.. The sheep were on the high road to becoming stags. Now, although the steamer communication from June to December is onlv once in eight weeks, from December to May it is practically a fortnightly sendee. The sheep-farmer from December to May has access to the Addington markets; consequently, the quality of the sheep is rapidly improving, and consignments of Chatham Island sheep have recently brought as high ‘as 18s Id a head. Everyone on the islands appears hopeful of their future, and, whereas formerly wool only was considered, now pigbreeding is assuming large dimensions, whilst horses and' cattl© of good quality have recently found their way into the Christchurch markets. The export of sheep from the Chathams this season must have been between 12,000 and 15,000, and next year will see a big increase in this number. The total flocks to-day are somewhere about 40,000 sheep. Of course freight of all kinds to and from the islands is high, but land is cheap. It is more expensive to clear bush land on the Chathams than it is in New Zealand. The climate is not so sunny, and when the bush is down it requires some manipulation before a fire can be got to ‘‘ run ” through it. There are no pines, and the more cloudy atmosphere retards tho drying of the timber. Despite these difficulties, bush land could bo cleared and) well grassed for under £2 10s per acre. There are some blocks of bush land of excellent quality mi tho main island, obtainable at under £1 per acre. I don’t know where in New Zealand even Crown. lands arc obtainable at such a low figure, and, although .the cost of marketing Chatham Island stock in New Zealand is high, the low price of land, joined on to experience and industry, offers some choice openings lo a few New Zealanders who have the gift of pioneer settlers in this colony. The European settlers at the Chathams are nearly all men of uncommon parts. Only resolute, self-reliant and physically strong men would have dared to make their homes so far away from what the majority regard as being essential to civilisation. In these islands are no roads, no bridges, no railways, no lamp-posts, no newspapers, no policemen, no lawyers, and, alas! no doctors. Also, there are no rates and taxes, no road Boards, county or borough councils. No land tax valuations vex the land-owners, no problems of public works plans and finance disturb the serene atmosphere. Here are surely some of the conditions necessary for the development of Arcady. No Trades Union and no Employers’ Association, and no Triennial Licensing Poll. The population has no share in our Parliament. Despite these things, and, perhaps, because of them, you can scarcely strike a man or woman in tho Chathams who is not possessed of the natural manners and the generous hospitality which in all nations and at all times constitutes the most sterling manhood and womanhood. The first man I spoke to on the beach had been on the island for a generation. He was beating about in the old schooner “ Seabird ” for 21 days in the passage from New Zealand. With his family of 11 robust children, he appears about 10 points more cheerful than tho average city dweller, whose features are being furrowed by the anxiety begotten of surplus uninvested wealth. He has battled hard for his crowd) of lusty youngsters. Without any of the luxuries of life, they have got sound bodies and minds, and a fairly thorough education, and are just the sort whose virility will qualify

them when they step into the more eager life of this colony; and they will, in due time, hurry off to New Zealand to seize upon positions of profit and power. Some of the settlers have been on the ■island nearly half a century, during which time they have visited this colony only once or twice. Many of adult a.ge—some t over 30 years of age—have never been away from their island home. The streets and shops of Christchurch to such are matters upon which imagination works. Despite the primitive conditions surounding the lives of these people, they enjoy nearly every essential to healthy and enjoyable life.' Good food is abundant, the climate is serene, and in matters of education the New Zealand Government has acted most generously. The children are getting a good education. ' The Education Department in Wellington administers educational matters directly. The school at Te One, about three miles from Waitangi, is in most capable hands. Mr Sigley has about 60 children in hand, and, from what Mr Laurenson and I saw during our visit, the school in all points would compare favourably with any of equal size in New Zealand. The wants of the more scattered families are attended to by other teachers, whose itinerary enables two or three days to be devoted to each group. The one pressing and urgent need of the Islands is a medical man. Kindly and capable nurses are abundant, but if occasion arises rendering surgical aid necessary to the saving of life, no such skill can be had. In the past, many a settler’s life has been lost for the lack of the skill needful to perform a simple surgical operation. The Government has placed in charge of the schoolmaster a supply of drugs and some medical works, and these have proved of value in emergencies, but the settlers cry nut for surgical aid. Their petition could be easily conceded rvithout adding to the annual’expenditure upon the Chathams. New Zealand now pays the salary of a. Resident Magistrate. No complaint is made against this official. His duties, if onerous, would, I doubt not, be efficiently discharged. But they are not onerous; they are almost imaginary, and are even to ’that extent social. The suggestion is that the several resident Justices of the Peace—men of education and sound judgment —are ample to meet all the islanders’ needs in tills direction, and it is urged that if New Zealand would pay an equal salary to a medical man as is now paid to the Magistrate the islanders would find the balance necessary to secure his services, and they could thus obtain a boon, the absence of which fills many a woman’s heart with dread at the moment of her greatest need.. If this request were granted by the Government one chief barrier to settlement in the Chathams would bo removed. There is the greatest abundance of fish and fowl at the Chathams it has ever been my privilege'to see. No rabbit dwells, there. Settlers inform you of this fact with an air of profound gratitude. In the fern land abutting upon the great lagoon, rabbits would become as the sands upon the seashore in number. Te Whanga is alive with wild duck and swan. The shooting season is observed during the same months as in New Zealand. If some of the Canterbury sportsmen who toil hard for meagre bags could get amongst the multitude of birds on To Whanga, records would he established of such magnitude as would make others, less < fortunate t green with envy. The lagoon contains great quantities of flounders, but the sea around the coasts of Chatham and Pitt Island affords the mostgorgeous Ashing. I had heard so much of the sea-fishing at the Chathams, I was convinced that there was either some, of the best fishing in the world, or some' of the greatest liars in the world, on the islands. The truth is that the fishing is there. It would be difficult to exaggerate in describing this great undeveloped source, of natural wealth, surround ng these solitary islands. In the small bay at Pitt Island known as the “Flower Pot” the water was positively swarming with shoals of young blue cod. Mr Laurenson andllandodbluo cod and hapuka at the rate of over two hundred weight an hour. For two lines with four hooks tills is a big harvest. Repeatedly each hook drew up a fine fish. More-thnn once my light cod line was strained severely by having to draw up t-wo hapuka at once. A party of Maoris landed 160 hapuka in one boat the day wo reached Waitangi. The blue cod were corpulent fellows, marry of them over 71b in weight and fat as_ butter. No jruer fish ever tempted an epicurean. The cook gave up a dish of blue cod fillets, the crispness and'flavour of which will long linger iir our memories. The fish supply j on the New Zealand 1 coast fades into in- | sianifiennee in comparison with the appar- ; ently boundless supples available at tbo Chathams. How ‘and when this wealth can be realised, to the mutual benefit of the islanders and of New Zealand, is a problem we propose to solve if possible. One essential to the development of the fishing industry is constant communication, and another, is cool chamber accommodation at the islands and on the steamers trading there. Trawling will not be possible there. The coast is rocky and the water very deep, and line fis-hinz will be exclusively Am.

ployed. Of fishermen, experienced and •well equipped, there would (be a plentiful supply. It remains to be seen whether, the enterprize of this colony is capable of seizing upin the wealth, so near our doors. Pitt Island, lying about twelve miles to the south of the Chatham?, is peculiarly fertile. Some of its cleared portions are carrying six sheep to ' the acre, and,. 75 bushels of ryegrass seed, or fifteen cocksfoot pier acre, are claimed to haye been taken off portions of the 15,000 acres comprising the total area of this rich little island. If the Cliathams were uniformly as fertile as Pitt Island, several thousand souls would live in comfort on the islands. As it is, the islands are capable of carrying double their present population. Thera are several estates which the Government: can obtain at a very low figure. Fifty families could bs added to the population at a much less coat than we can settle them on the land here, and 1 the increased trade which such an addition to the population would certainly bring in its wake would be reaped by the business people of Christchurch and Canterbury. Comparatively small as is their area and the present population, the dav is not far distant when there will be a big increase in the trade and production of these remote portions of Greater. Britain.