CLIMBING ROSES FOR GLASS ROOFS.

Lyttelton Times, Volume LXXXI, Issue 10314, 5 April 1894, Page 3

CLIMBING ROSES FOR GLASS ROOFS.

(“ Garden Soso ’’ in The Field.)

Anyone possessing a light, span-roofed, cool house, wherein the winter temperature as a minimum rules at about dOdeg, has a splendid place for rosea of rampant growth, which flower upon the young wood cf the previous year rather than under the spur pruning system. To cover all the roof is nob for one moment to be entertained, the idea being to merely confine the growth to about If b in width, depending mainly upon one wire only strained under the rafters or, at the most, only two. others should be used, Gin on either side of the central one. With 4ft lights (in width) this would allow 3ft of clear space not overgrown by the rose shoots, save here and there, as a strong shoot requires more freedom. Moat houses, as now constructed, would have the lights at least sft in width; this, of course, would admit more light still. The small proportion of shade thus imparted would not seriously affect any plants, whilst, as far as effect goes, it would be a most decided improvement upon bare rafters. No plants of easier culture could be chosen, nor anything more durable. The roses thus obtained for cutting would come in mopt useful a few weeks prior to the earliest from outside. From the end of April to the end of May such a supply would be most welcome.. Someone may say, how about mildew and green fly ? Of course, if either of these is to be tolerated, they soon become a nuisance; there is, however, no reasonable excuse why they should, with all the present day appliances. A fairly strong coating of sulphur (black is the best, because it is far less unsightly) put upon the pipes early in the season will dispose of the fungoid pest for a long time to come, not for ever, of course. As regards the green fly, there are several remedies, one excellent one being a solution of quassia chips, always kept in readiness for use. This can be prepared without much trouble as follows: Take 31b or 41b in weight of chips and tie them up in a piece cf small meshed netting, then pour boiling water upon them, and cover with a thick piece of canvas or sacking. TVhen cool, drain off the water, and • it is then fit for use; the chips so treated will bear two or three lots of water upon them before all the bitter qualities are extracted. For that weight of chips six of quassia water may be made the first time of extraction, and four gallons the next. I would not advise the addition of soft soap when plants underneath the roses are in flower, because of the marks left behind. The advantage in having the quassia water alone is in the fact that no such stains are engendered, and it it be used two or three times a week the fly will find it most unpleasant. Do not stop until this insect pest is in any way numerous, but rather nip it in the bud, and be constantly on the watch for it. There are other insecticides which can bo used, bub none are perfectly free from stain, one essential ingredient in nearly every instance being soft soap, in a greater or lesser degree. Fumigation in a greenhouse or a conservatory will be necessary, aud that more frequently _ during the spring months; this, in addition, should be depended on. To postpone it until the insects are numerous is one of the greatest possible mistakes that can be made. When they become numerous the dose is usually applied stronger, or probably repeated two or three times. The came amount of fumigating material, if spread more equally over the season, will do far more good. For applying the quassia water a spraying machine is by far the best to use, superior in every way to an ordinary syringe 5 with the former the water is precipitated in such fine particles—-dew-like, in fact. The procedure, as regards culture, m other respects will have to be regulated to suit the case, whether the plants are grown in large pots or tuba, or planted out. The latter should be adopted wherever possible, as it' gives far less trouble; whilst the roses will thrive far more satisfactorily when they have a border in which to root. In most cases it would be possible to plant them out. They could be planted outside in some cases, in a similar way to vines, being brought through the wall into the house by the removal of a half brick, packing being afterwards put around the stem in the cavity. In some instances it would no doubt be easier and more preferable to plant them inside. When this is done, however, the stems should not be too close to the hot-water pipes; not that these will be very hot at any time, but the soil around will often dry up more quickly, and the roses may suffer from drought. This is a point in cultivation that must be carefully looked to. Boses should never suffer from want of moisture, or red spider and red rust will soon appear. The difference between pot-oulture aud that of planting out is all in favour of the latter system, even if but little more soil be used for the purpose. The roots are too much restricted under pot culture. A brick-built bed would not be at all amiss, provided a good drainage bo allowed for; in any case, however, this is essential. The soil is another important item; it ought • not to contain much manure, which would induce too strong a growth. The loam for roses should be of a somewhat heavy character. Some lime rubble should be added and _ a little manure. The latter will be applied more liberally later on as a top dressing, and in a liquid form as may be needful. In planting, the soil should be made quite firm amongst and around the roots, with a watering aa soon as it is completed. The best rosea for planting in this way are as follow Climbing Ferle des Jardins, a pure yellow rose of extra vigorous growth; Climbing Niphetos, similar to the old form in the flower, but a decided climber; Celine Fore.stier, a fine old rose, pale yellow; Gloire de Dijon sad other forms, all of which are usually termed « Dijon ” roses; L’ldeal, coppery red and orange, very distinct and lovely in the bud stage; Marshal Kiel, too well-known to need any description. William Alien Eichardson. like the foregoing, should have a good length of rafter. The treatment these require in the way of pruning is a thinning out of weakly wood, retaining the strong shoots to about two-thirds of their length.