OLD REMINISCENCES.

Lyttelton Times, Volume LXIX, Issue 8385, 21 January 1888, Page 6

OLD REMINISCENCES.

TBy Kambler.J 11. As we continued to follow the' roadway that gradually descended towards obe lake, our communicative driver proceeded to encourage and cheer up the flagging t'pirits of his somewhat drowsy horses by judicious applications of the whip and repealed jerkings of the reins, which enabled us to attain a speed of perhaps nearly svv miles an hour. The skilful administration , of these stimulants gave point to his re-' marks, and often lent a iiniauing touch to his observations that came from him with a kind of natural ease or grace, so accustomed was he to emphasize his words in this manner, making his horses share in the interest of his assertions. The pace at which we travelled enabled us to take notice of many features of the landscape, whilst it afforded the rather garrulous warrior who drove us plenty of time and opportunity to relate many stirring incidents of the war, which testified in an unquestioned manner, to his personal bravery and prowess in the field. It was a hard fate meted out to him, inasmuch as a neglectful country had allowed his eminent services to pass unrequited ; it had conferred no mark of distinction upon him, whereas one knew that had his lot been cast in with military America, he would most certainly have been styled “ General ” for life. He had his audience with him, a privilege to be envied by many a lecturer; as this arrangement could not well be altered, we had to be satisfied with it, and managed to enjoy the drive, whilst the words of the proser ceaselessly flowed on, coming off trippingly on the tongue. It is quite possible that our impatience to reach Lake Kotorua increased as we drew nearer to it, when we could just get a glimpse of its bright surface in the distance, shining like a silver shield as it lay hemmed in by dark-looking hills and mountains. This background of ferny hills threw into prominence the dead white vaporous clouds, which rose all around the lake basin. Where were the bluish tints in these slowly moving fume clouds to which one had been accustomed in landscape paintings of the hot lake scenery; that blue tinge, such as colours the rising smoke from a wood fire, which one had always looked upon as the correct thing in sketches of Kotorua and the district ? These masses of dead white vapour were not nearly so effective or pleasing as those of the artists’ rendering in many well-known pictures one could remember; they looked heavier, and gave one the impression of being less impalpable. In the swampy flats that in places almost bordered the roadway, oneof the more remarkable features to southern people was the large area covered with a luxuriant growth of the Tangle fern (Gleichenia circinata) —waewae-kaka of the Maoris. There was a tangled mass of it covering acres of mossy ground, with its slender, much - branched fronds interlacing and entangling, rising in places over hummocks and trailing and creeping to the firm-set feet of noble flax bushes, whose outer leaves, grey, stiff, and withered, were themselves entwined with the clutching fronds of the Tangle fern. Looking around the amphitheatre of hills, woods crowned the heights and crests of some, others seemed fernclad, many seamed with refts and gullies that nursed and sheltered rapid mountain streams. Tracks could be discerned and some way traced that, it was said, led to most fertile spots, cultivated with the nicest care by the Natives. These rich garden plots were evidently not very readily accessible. In one spot rose from a swamp a grand wood ct kahikatea, with trees of majestic growth Everywhere were wafted clouds and jets of steam or vapour. We soon became sensible of the sulphurous odours that prevailed. Our first surprise and experience c£ the uses of the thermal springs was caused by noticing an old couple of Natives, like a dusky Adam and Eve, squatting ii\ a warm pool close beside the road. In this natural bath of hot fresh water, they sat and chatted with as much comfort as any old Darby and Joan might beside their #wn cosy hearthstone, they were apparently as unconscious of appearances, as our fif&t parents before the fall. We were fortunate in obtaining fair accommodation at* an hotel, which could scarcely be considered finished. The sleeping apartments occupied the first floor of the building ; these were mere divisions, parted off into bedrooms, but all of them open to the roof ; so every word uttered by the occupants could be heard all over that floor. The dining and smoking-rooms were prettily decorated with long streamers of Lycopodium volubile. Festoons of it hung on the walls, and were wreathed about the ceilings, and in almost tevery part where its trailing fronds could be attached. We scarcely took time to consider these things before we tried the bath. The most enjoyable and comfortable of baths owed but little to any efforts from the hand of luxury by way of fittings or furniture. A large bath was screened from observation by a rude hut erected over it, formed of bunches of raupo leaves tied together with strips of flax. A narrow channel conveyed into it a small stream of boiling water, the volume of which could be regulated by the bather after a very primitive fashion. Where the shallow mflow reached the bath, a sack wrapped round a large piece of pumice sufficed to block the channel, forcing the hot water to follow into a waste cut or ditch. When the bather required to raise the temperature of his bath, he took hold of a manuka pole provided for this purpose, and with it thrust aside the pumice, when in poured the boiling stream as long as it was felt to be desirable. One was often tempted to try how hot one could really endure the bath before seizing the pole and closing the channel. It was whilst indulging in a delicious bath, pole in hand ready to stop the influx of hot water, that one’s privacy was invaded. The raupo door opened, and two Maoris entered. They with polite and courteous demeanour shook hands, stirred the water, and made one welcome to Ohinemutu, in a minute or two retiring as quietly as they had entered. Many a dictum had been uttered about these baths. We used them at least twice, often, thrice a day, not only without suffering any inconvenience from the practice, but really fancying we were all tbe better for these frequent par-boilings. On the way to the bath were a few patches of ferns. Of these the cut-leaved bracken (Pteris incisa) grew in the most luxuriant form, yet many of the fronds were actually steamed off the stipes from the plants living in such very close proximity to a boiling stream. But let us get rid of our causes for grumbling, and have done with them. If the apartments were not all that could be wished in the matter of accommodation, what shall be said of the commissariat department? One’s recollections of it are by no means favourable or pleasant, and for this drawback Canterbury was chiefly blamed. The meat, butter, cheese, and bacon were said to be the produce of our enterprising Province. The meat which furnished the greater part of our food supply was tinned minced mutton, which required all the strength, yes, the full strength of a healthy appetite to tolerate. The mess of grease called butter appeared in basins or platters smeared smooth. If it ever had been in Canterbury, it must have left our rich dairy farms many, many months before the date of our visit. Of the other items the less said the better; yet after all there was plenty of such tinned food as salmon, lobster, and sardines; vegetables were represented by indifferent potatoes and pumpkins, which appeared in many guises. Although, as may be seen, we did not fare daintily, there was little grumbling among the visitors. But whilst jotting down these hints as to food, it would not be fair to omit that on one occasion the township was treated to fresh beef. When the rumour fairly spread that a bullock was actually to be killed, everyone almost turned out to see the animal, even Government employees, who were supposed to be engaged in surveying or mapping, withdrew from their toil awhile' just to see the victim that was to furnish forth the rare feast, and one is bound to say it was a remarkable animal to choose for the purpose. It appeared la the form

of a very old worker, in poor store condition. The necessary appliances for butchering wore wanting, b>< that the whole carcase could not be hoisted up ; therefore it was chopped in bits and.hung on pole's, beside the roadway, forming a ghastly attraction for young Natives and others for a day or so. Ohinemutu is most pleasantly situated on a gentle slope rising from the lake. In the foreground nestles the Maori pah on a narrow point but slightly raised above the water. The wharos, built of raupo, stand on a thin crust, from the fissures of which steam and vapour is constantly (leaping. Sometimes in a whaiu one has seen a slight escape of steam from a small fisrure in the rocky floor, yet so accustomed wens the Natives to these phenomena that they ..appealed quite at ease in such a dangerous situation. Maoris were constantly'bathing, or basking on the warm flat rocks, or the women were cooking their food either by immersing it in a boiling spring or* by covering it up in the hot stones in certain spots. Mothers let their little ones tAmble about in warm waterholes whilst they sat near by gossiping and smoking, an ar.rangemsnt that suited both parties the children seemed thoroughly to enjoy these pltfy places. These little creatures would bften appear before the windows, and in a solemn and demure fashion, go through* performance of the haka, with the hope of getting something from visitors—peppermint lollies were prized next to coin.